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The Forced Induction 20V Thread

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Cool sounds like you are well happy, just watch out for your turbo life been shortened if its peaking in the 1.5+ bar

 

 

 

hope its not too much, got me woried now! :pale:

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tbh im not shure, its dbw with a cc map but thats all i know - managed to fit the new guage in the vent - took half the dash off befor realising that the vent just pulled out!

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this might be abit newb, when i open the petrol cap it seems like there is a great deal of preshure in there and kinda pushes the cap off with quite a whoosh - didnt have this on my old c so was wondering if it was somthing about turbos or mabe somthing isnt wright? thanks

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this might be abit newb, when i open the petrol cap it seems like there is a great deal of preshure in there and kinda pushes the cap off with quite a whoosh - didnt have this on my old c so was wondering if it was somthing about turbos or mabe somthing isnt wright? thanks

 

Do you run with a full tank? it may be your fuel tank is not venting properly?

 

I just vented mine to atmosphere when I put the syncro tank in :) - no nasty niffs either, even on the hottest days

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this might be abit newb, when i open the petrol cap it seems like there is a great deal of preshure in there and kinda pushes the cap off with quite a whoosh - didnt have this on my old c so was wondering if it was somthing about turbos or mabe somthing isnt wright? thanks

 

Do you run with a full tank? it may be your fuel tank is not venting properly?

 

I just vented mine to atmosphere when I put the syncro tank in :) - no nasty niffs either, even on the hottest days

 

 

ushaly run with 1/4 tank, there supost to vent in some way? theres a 300zx up the road with a straw coming out of his petrol cap - mabe i need one of these lol?

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hi guys, any idea what dump valve is in this clip? makes a nice sound lol :camp:

 

 

http://videos.drole.ch/video/fyKBokPM06 ... 2871r.html

 

Because he is running a bigger turbo when you lift off its the turbo surging but not on full boost so thats ok, you can make yours do that now but only a good idea if on full throttle its not doing it.

 

Just try a Forge splitR i have that and its ok but his looks like a Bailey dump valve, dont know what management your running but if factory then the Air mass meter will be upset if running an open dump to atmosphere for the pssshhht noise and put the engine in limp mode.

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the dump valve is a forge 007 i think - looks just like this one http://www.carperformancepartsuk.com/sh ... Valve.html oo that is the splitR lol.

 

you may be able to help me then, there are various settings on them by turning the knob at the top, how do i know when i get it to the optimal position? i just had a stage 2 map and wasnt shure if i need to fiddle with it again.

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The Forge 007 is a closed dump valve so it does not dump to atmosphere hence no psshht noise.

 

The recommended seting on the slpitr is no more than 29 clicks, i found on mine that at the optimal 25 clicks when i lifted from the throttle it was holding the boost a split second too long which made the coming off the throttle gave the car a quick sudden jolt ie it was not smooth, so its backed off slightly to 22 which has smoothed the boost release and driveability. Make sure its fitted the opposite way round too, if you fit it the same way as the original its on backwards. The splitr can be set up 3 ways too, fully closed full boost recirc, part recirc part dump to atmosphere, fully dump to atmosphere, this valve was built for the 20vt to give the pssshhht without upsetting the air mass meter hence its run split 50/50.

 

Set it to 25 clicks to start off with then if its a little un smooth then back it off a couple of clicks, if its making a chatter noise on full throttle then thats not wastegate chatter its the turbo surging forcing compressed air backwards over the compressor wheel which the compressor wheel chops the compressed air up and puts uneeded stress on the compressor blades and will kill your turbo, some people like the noise including me but i wont run it that way either.

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ok thnaks guys, ill have a look to see what setting it is on, one more thing - do i need to get the splitR serviced?

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ok, had her on the roaling road and my stage 2 map only got me to 207-bhp which im not to happy with, do you think its worth giving cc a ring to discuss it ?

 

 

mabe im being a little ambitious, its only got a few mods - streat through exaust - custom down pipe - full k&n induction to the outside - fmic - forge turbo inlet pipes, could it be injectors being standard do you think ?

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ok, had her on the roaling road and my stage 2 map only got me to 207-bhp which im not to happy with, do you think its worth giving cc a ring to discuss it ?

 

 

mabe im being a little ambitious, its only got a few mods - streat through exaust - custom down pipe - full k&n induction to the outside - fmic - forge turbo inlet pipes, could it be injectors being standard do you think ?

 

which turbo is it?

how much boost are you running?

was that at the wheels or th flywheel?

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which turbo is it?

how much boost are you running?

was that at the wheels or th flywheel?

 

 

 

still the litle one, ko3s

runing at 20-22psi

at the fly

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i would have said that those figures are not so good for what you are running.

i have the same turbo, running the turbo flat out at 21psi and it makes 247 at the fly. i do have a custom map on stand alone managment, but it doesnt sound like my set up is much different.

can you use vag com on your engine set up? maybe a sensor is playing up?

does it feel any slower than normal?

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it felt faster than befor the map for shure but defo isnt as fast as they were predicting, there about 300 miles away or more from me so going up there is not realy a posibility unless i get it on vagcom 1st, what sort of errors/sensors out should i be looking out for that would effect the performance? btw thanks for the quick reply :)

 

 

ps: if the engine goes into limp mode, will the boost guage still read 20-22 psi?

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i wouldnt have thought you would be making 20 psi in limp mode! almost certainly not infact.

if you can find someone with vagcom local (assuming your conversion has the diagnostic plug still) then do that. the dealer will do it if not.

i would give them a ring. im sure they will be able to help you out.

hopefully it will be something silly, but it does sound like you are not making what you should be making in my opinion

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What management you running and what throttle, cable or DBW? If the latter the standard management can go into a kind of lazy mode and limits the full potential to 75 percent full throttle but its not limp mode. To reset it, make sure the engine is cold, disconnect the battery, just leave it for 5 minutes, reconnect it, ignition on but dont start it and dont touch the pedals, you will here something from the throttle thats it calibrating, should take approx 20 seconds then its done, it will also clear the old parametes but not remove the map. Is it def a K03s not a K03?

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well a ko3 wont make 20 psi. i know boost is only a measurement of restriction, but im assuming he has nothing obscure going on in the intake side.

the later k03(s) is running flat out at 20/21psi, i know that because that is how mine is running! :norty:

ko4 should be on the way though

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What management you running and what throttle, cable or DBW? If the latter the standard management can go into a kind of lazy mode and limits the full potential to 75 percent full throttle but its not limp mode. To reset it, make sure the engine is cold, disconnect the battery, just leave it for 5 minutes, reconnect it, ignition on but dont start it and dont touch the pedals, you will here something from the throttle thats it calibrating, should take approx 20 seconds then its done, it will also clear the old parametes but not remove the map. Is it def a K03s not a K03?

 

 

 

wish i new what management :(

 

its dbw - ill give that a go after making up with the misses :(

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