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The Forced Induction 20V Thread

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ok tryed that - couldnt tell a change.

 

i just d/c the batt for 5 mins then reconnect it and put the key in the ignition "on" for 20+ secconds? i heard a squeeky sound for abit but i hear that alot anyway.

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that could have been the motor in the throttle body making that noise. i would have thought you would have noticed a difference if that did the trick.

have you called the people who re mapped it?

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yep, but there a long way away from me so they recommend that i get it on vag com befor i drive half way across the country :(.

 

how much do people ushaly charge to put them on vag com?

 

also, is there any way that i can find out what mannagement is on it ?

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i would have thought that if he had it mapped by custom code then it would be factory managment

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Yes so would i. What fuel do you run it on. Can you get hold of a new MAF to try as it might be getting lazy and reading wrong or something. How is your geometry as that plays a big part in the readings on RR's. Was it read on a reputable rolling road, how do other peoples figures compare to what they were expecting or what they have recorded at other places. Do you know anybody with a race diagnostics display aka a "liquid TT" it plugs into the OBD 2 port and reads all the management info and will read for fault codes.

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take it the main dealer, they should put it in VAG COM as long as you have a diagnostic port (which i assume you do if cc remapped it).

it might cost you £30 but at least you will know if something is a miss.

has it got noticably slower or has it always been like this since you had it mapped?

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its hard to say, in my opinion its got noticably slower since the map but that may be me getting used to it....

i had trouble getting past some crappy car today when i was at 4k revs and all i could do was keep up, still running 20 psi.

 

yep has the port so ill take her up there tomorow if they can fit me in, its realy weard!!

 

wish i knew more about the setup but i dont :(

 

 

+ the fueling was all off today i think, popping and stuttering all over the place. very hot day though.

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sounds like a maf then maybe. Try disconnecting it. Just unplug it. When you remap them they can show up a weak point pretty quickly.

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or the n75 they are the usual suspects along with coilpacks. Not always will they show up on vagcom.

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Depends if its an original and not a copy and also the air filter used as they can get dirty just try unplugging it and try cleaning it.

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ok cleaned up the maf, and had a fissle with the boost pipes, all seem ok.

i've suspisians are the dump valve - how do i tell if thats broken lol.

 

 

 

also - the engine warning light flashes intermitantly like a strobe under hard exelartion, that cant be good lol!

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Have you had it vagcom yet, if the warning light is flashing then it is registering something.

 

 

its going on over the weekend, will keep you posted.

 

 

edit: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-COM-409-1-KKL ... 286.c0.m14 anny good ?

 

 

got one through today so going to get a mate come down with the laptop, should i be clering codes or just reading them ?

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ok came up wit these errors lol

 

 

 

18057 Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller

 

17526 Oxygen (Lambda)?

 

16825 - ?

 

18058 - EVAP Emission Control Sys

 

17931 - Crash signal of the Airbag controller implausible signal (gues thats not connected)

 

18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage Too Low

 

16955 - Brake Switch Implausible Signal

 

think i found out what some are , any ideas ?

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ok came up wit these errors lol

 

 

 

18057 Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller

 

17526 Oxygen (Lambda)?

 

16825 - ?

 

18058 - EVAP Emission Control Sys

 

17931 - Crash signal of the Airbag controller implausible signal (gues thats not connected)

 

18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage Too Low

 

16955 - Brake Switch Implausible Signal

 

think i found out what some are , any ideas ?

 

I have fault codes for abs, airbags, Terminal 30 voltage too low and they dont affect mine. I'm running standard management. I had a boost leak which i could hear from inside the car when on full throttle and it turned out to be a faulty diverter valve (dv). I removed the dv from the tip and started the engine. On idle there was air escaping from the dv and just to make sure i then pinched the vacuum hose on top of the dv with my fingers to stop vacuum pressure opening the dv and it still leaked. fitted a forge 007 tonight and it's running much better.

 

You should ceck your brake pedal switch 1st as it could be faulty;

To test the brake pedal switch

In Vag-com go to:

01 - engine

08 - read measuring block

Then go to block:

006

 

Readings in zone 2 should be 000 without the brake pedal depressed.

Upon pressing the pedal the readings should go to 011

upon releasing the pedal the readings should again be 000

 

There are 2 switches inside the brake light switch, it contains 2 switches, one for the brake lights and one for the ECU.

Because the vehicle is fly by wire, if something were to fail you need to be able to shut the engine off, so when the throttle is depressed and the brake is also the ECU returns the engine to idle as a safety function.

 

After that I would check the lambda probes...

 

Paddy

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i would say the lambda sensor could be up the shoot.

the other bits and pieces may not be connected on your set up, but the lambda is. clear all the fault codes and try them again in a few days, see what appears again.

 

Rob

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thats true, not sure if it would show up which lambda is at fault on vagcom? :shrug:

keep at it though, you will get there

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hey everyone im going to be starting a 20vt conversion into my 1.8 kr 1990 corrado and i have a few questions.

what happens with the fusebox in my corrado do i replace it with the mk4 golf one or do i just adapt the engine wiring loom to fit my current fusebox.

 

what gearbox is best to be used.

if i use the gearbox that comes with the agu will i need to change my driveshafts?

also would the g60 mounts fit my car as ive read these are better than the 16v ones

 

cheers

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you will be best off converting your engine wiring loom or going stand alone managment and making/buying a wiring loom. if you change to a mk4 fusebox you will need to change the rest of the wiring in the car to suit that.

you can use any gearbox that fits the 4 cylinder engines e.g g60, 16v

the mk4 gearboxs are bigger and a pain to fit, so i wouldnt bother

g60 engine mounts will be fine. bear in mind that you will need to rob the rear engine mount off you current engine to fit to the new engine aswell

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Cheers mate the rest of the wiring in the car won't really matter as its a track car.

Is qpeng the only standalone managment system as a grand for it seems very steep

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