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The Forced Induction 20V Thread

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The mapping on the DBW cars is quite fun to dig into, the sensitivity of the throttle body is set on the standard boost to over shoot the requested angle you apply at the throttle. Hence the initial feeling of grunt. If you log the values you will see if you ask for say 30% the log will show you get a 100% opening and then settle back to 30%. When you start upping the boost these characteristics get amplified and the car becomes undrivable at normal everyday driving speeds...

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What measuring block is the DBW on? I'll have to check it out but it is a bit sneaky whacking it open 100% when you move the pedal 3% of it's travel :lol:

 

That instant punch is useful for joining roundabouts and traffic queues rapidly though! I can get away with things in the Polo I wouldn't dare try in the Rado, cause it's too heavy and lazy.

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change of subject - Who would you guys recommend for a remap on my 1.8T A3? I have heard Revo are aggressive and lack power at the top of the rev range. they want aobut £450. I havej ust rung custom code and they will do it for £350 including the Forge 007 DV and mobile!!! would this be a good bet? It's like being a kid in a sweet shop and i am becomnig more indecisive by the day!!! :lol:

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finaly got my conversion finished, so far done about 100 miles in it all i can say is it was worth the wait :D :D :D

on the qpeng high boost setting it realy shifts :)

 

the only thing that isnt working is the oil temp im unsure where to put a sensor anyone got theres working with qpeng on the mfa what did you do with the sensor?

 

just need to try get it on the rollers to make sure its running right im worried about running it incase its lean etc i dont want to melt it.

im sure qpeng maps are resonably close

13032008053.jpg

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give it a little while mate and you will see that they over fuel, watch the fuel consumption! so no worries about running lean. also, the oil temp sensor can be put into the top of the oil filter housing. there is normally a little blank in there (same place as G60)

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I doubt you'll have any problems with the map - I've only read of one person having problems with the QPENG MBE kit, and in that case I believe the issue was that the purchaser stated his engine code incorrectly.

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Hi, was wondering if anyone who has used the qpeng conversion loom can help me. I've fitted the engine (AGU) and just started on the wiring. I bought the whole qpeng setup second hand off someone, he was good enough to mark the wires for me but i'm stuck on one wire. Its marked as "fuel pump" and is a single wire does anyone know where i have to connect this to? The car its going in is a G-reg 1.8 16v.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

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yep replaces the wire from the original ecu which goes to the fuel pump relay under the dash

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Thanks mate, that was spot on. Its up and running now. Just need to tidy up the intercooler pipe work.

Big thumbs up for the qpeng conversion kit from me, so easy to use that even a complete novice like me can get it up and running.

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iv had my newly recond k04 turbo fail after just 300 miles i have good oil pressure and feed lines new oil and filter all bled up fitted the unit with utter care.

now it wont spool up just screams,blades have burs from rubbing the housing.

so looks a bit dead.

 

so my question is has anyone else running a k04 on qpeng had any problems?

is the 1.6 bar way too mutch for the k04 as i only ran it full power for like a few mins it failed while running a 0.6 bar.

 

or is it likely the recon was crap and the bearings have gone already even tho the oil is fine.

i mite be best to get a second hand unit.

funds are now running low it cost £360 for the recon and it only went for leaking seals so proves there was good oil pressure now this recon is compleatly knackerd leaving me wondering why.

 

always sumat goes wrong :(

but for them 300 miles the car was seriously rapid :)

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I would say 1'6 bar is way too much for that turbo, i run an IHI VF22 @ 1.5 bar and thats pushing it to its limit for reliability tbh.

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1.6 bar is ok, my mates pulls 25psi on the boost guage and doesn't have any problems. and he will break anything you give him! if you disconnect the oil feed pipe and return pipe (well crack them off) does the oil come out of both pipes (not at same time)? could be crap bearings. does the shaft have lots of play in it? if you have oil seeping out of the return pipe then there must be oil getting to the bearings. does the unit come with a warranty? if so, get on the phone!

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so my question is has anyone else running a k04 on qpeng had any problems?

 

Nope - my friend has had none. From memory peak boost with the closed loop should be ~1.5 bar in the mid-range, tailing off to 1 bar at the top end. If you were running 1.6 bar for anything more than an overshoot, something wasn't quite right.

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Thanks mate, that was spot on. Its up and running now. Just need to tidy up the intercooler pipe work.

Big thumbs up for the qpeng conversion kit from me, so easy to use that even a complete novice like me can get it up and running.

 

all the effort and money will be worth it now! the only thing i find with the qpeng is that it fuels so much. i might change my water temp sensor and see if that helps. im getting about 50 miles to £10 of super unleaded at the moment with normal driving (not racing everywhere). be interesting to know what others are getting.

apart from that, the qpeng is spot on for me

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"gimp mode"-quality!

that could be a possibility, mine is the probe that came with the engine. ill run the mapping software on it and see what it is reading.

allthough with £10 actually getting you about 2litres at the pump, maybe 50miles is good! :)

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turbos now off oil and oil lines and pressures are fine but the turbo on the intake side on just 3 blades big burs have formed on the blades,but why only three im sure the turbo rebuilders will try say its me but surly its a fault with them why only 3 blades bured up?

out of balance or a bent shaft?

yea theres a 12month warranty so il have to see what they say shud be back with them monday.

 

ben at qpeng says hes had no turbo problems during development at 1.6bar.

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sounds like a bent shaft to me, but then im no expert.

if you have oil there, then it cant be your fault, that is the only thing you need for it. get onto trading standards if not. if it came off your engine working, then it should come back working

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Right chaps, just received my loom/ecu/downpipe combo from Qpeng, connected it up to the engine & mounted the ECU & im now left with 3 wires to connect up to the main corrado harness, these are 1. thick black wire labelled 12v supply 2. blue/yellow wire labelled fuel pump 3. red/black wire labelled tacho..

 

My question is can anyone tell me what colour wires i should be joining these up to? (my car is a 95 2.0 16v)

 

i colud also do with knowing what i connect up the coolant temp sensor wire to aswell????

 

Theres a 4th wire coming from the Qpeng loom up @ the ecu, this is solid blue & is unlabelled anyone any idea what/where it goes?

 

Lastly what have you Qpeng folks done to connect up the oil pressure light etc.????

 

cheers

 

Lee

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Anyone? Pleeeeaase, dying to get this running now & as already pointed out in the thread my autodata wiring info is wrong & i cAnt find relevant wiring info anywhere.......already been in touch with Qpeng but there info is for a mk3 golf & certainly doesnt sync up with my car regards wire colours

 

Also while im here where do i take the vacuum feed from for the map sensor?

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vacuum feed can be taken from the inlet manifold

what you will have been supplied with from qpeng is a loom with goes to the ecu, injectors, coils etc. the original engine wiring in your car is broken down into 2 parts, 1 part does all the ecu, injectors, TPS etc. the other part of the loom is for the headlights.

in the loom with the ecu, will also be all the wiring for the oil pressure switches. the oil pressure switches are wired straight back to the clocks. you will need to break down this loom, so that you are left with:-

the oil pressure switchs wires,

coolent temp wires for the clocks,

lambda probe heater wires,

12v switched supply for ecu,

wire for the fuel pump

wire for the rev counter

 

the wires for the rev counter (tacho), fuel pump and 12v supply will already be going up to your original ecu, so they can be used again.

you will have 1 wire going to the clocks for the coolent guage, this connects to the purple wire of the coolent sensor. the coolent sensor also needs to be earthed on 1 of the pins for it to work.

 

hope that helps a bit

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qpeng fuel pump to the blue/yellow wire

qpeng tacho to the green/blue wire

black that went to the rado ecu is 12v swithched so that goes to the qpeng 12v

ground out the earth eyes and the qpeng ecu

coolant could be red/yellow

thats it shud be running.

 

if you can hear ya pump prime on ignition on for a few secs you shud be good to go :D

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