vr6 running hot

[benanna 0]

Hi all, having problems with my vr6, engine seems to be very hot, even after a short ride.

Temp gauge sits around 90 and oil about 106 c. however the engine seems spanking hot. Just had the timing chains done about 100miles or so ago, and it seems to be starting and running really well.

Could there be a problem with the timing or something with the cooling system that may have been messed about during the repairs.

I'm a little worried about driving it in this condition even if the gauges are saying things are quite normal

[mattkh 0]

Hi

Have you had a word with the folk who changed the timing chains.

[benanna 0]

That would be me :shock:

[mattkh 0]

Hi

If you drained the coolant while doing the chain, then I would message the pipes to get rid of air locks. Is the fan switching in ? What part of the engine makes you feel it is running hot?

[benanna 0]

the fan is kicking in as it should, keeping the needle on the gauge @ 90, it's always been about this mark, well as long as i can remember. The heat would appear to be coming from the entire Block, complete engine... I think

Did drain the coolant, so will check pipes as described.

There was a mention that the gearbox bolts to the bell housing where different lengths and that there was a coolant duct within the block, if the wrong bolt was used this could pierced the coolant path.

Anyone able to shed any light on this

[plateletboy 0]

90'C for coolant and 106'C for oil doesn't sound too hot to me...

 

my coolant sits at 80'C at a constant speed (50mph), and the oil goes up to anything around 115'C after a long motorway run at 90

 

pb

[benanna 0]

I agree......

But after a short ride at a legal pace, the engine seems to have done a few laps at silverstone....Fry an egg on the intake manifold and the exhaust is creaking and cracking for 5 -10 minutes later. I've taken it for a 60 mile round trip gets no better or worst.

did use a coolant called EXCL 5 form global lubricants....pink stuff, mixed it 1:1 with water...my be I should replace.... any ideals

[MK1Campaign 0]

I agree......

But after a short ride at a legal pace, the engine seems to have done a few laps at silverstone....Fry an egg on the intake manifold and the exhaust is creaking and cracking for 5 -10 minutes later. I've taken it for a 60 mile round trip gets no better or worst.

did use a coolant called EXCL 5 form global lubricants....pink stuff, mixed it 1:1 with water...my be I should replace.... any ideals

 

Your only supposed to use genuine VW G12 coolant in VR's.

[plateletboy 0]

well it doesn't sound like there is anything wrong with the cooling system if it doesn't get any worse after 60 miles,

so the only way I can imagine an engine could warm up 'super fast' would be if the timing was out (ECU controlled)

or if it was running too lean - again ECU controlled.....

 

its a bit of a weird one as a fast engine warm up is kind of a good thing..!!?

 

pb

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Not heard of the gearbox bolt piercing a water channel before. IIRC, the box is held on with 4 19mm bolts and they're at the edges of the block casting, so should be well away from water channels.

 

As mentioned already, VW's G12+ coolant is generally what we use, but it's not law. What is of concern is your 50/50 mix. Ideally it should be around 75/35 water to coolant, but no higher than 60/40. Water's ability to absorb heat reduces the more coolant you mix into it.

 

I would try a flush and refill with G12+ at that ratio and see if the problem goes. Whilst you're there, replace the thermostat. All cheap and easy stuff to tick off the list first ;-)

[benanna 0]

Well tryed the G12+ @ correct mix tonight,,,, d'ont think it's going to be that easy....still seems very hot.

It's just so surprising how well it feels on the road.

Also checked the housing bolts before I drained the coolant, and chessewire is correct ..no coolant emerged from any of the bolts. It was somethink that appeared on the vwvortex site, just shows you need to take everything with a pinch of salt.

Is there anyway to check the timing without having to strip everything down again, I checked it so many times when I was putting it back together, but I suppose it always possible its out a tooth I guess.

The throttle body seems to be the first place to get really hot, did notice that I seem to be losing some air at the noise Damper on the Idle air control valve somewhere around the heat sheild on the bottom of the unit. Didnt notice it before.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Ahhhh, you're talking about the bolt lengths being different on the thermostat housing! Gotcha.. Thought you meant the gearbox for some reason!

 

Yes, that is true, there's 2 long uns and a short un if I remember? My memory is going....

I guess it's possible to mix them up but I'm sure you found as I and others have, you'd know before tightening them!! yeah, ignore the Vortex :lol:

 

I wonder if you have accidentally advanced the rear cam 1 tooth?

 

I've done that before - on both cams - and yeah it drove well, but got hot as you say and wasn't as good past 4000rpm as it was before.

 

It's easy to do that the first time you and try and get the chain over the cam sprockets, but you soon get the hang of it.

 

If you're in any doubt, I would have a look as prolonged hot running like that from incorrect cam timing will burn the exhaust valves out.

 

You just need to take the rocker cover off and make sure the cam slots align as they should when the engine is at TDC on cyl 1.

[dr_mat 0]

Not sure about the other issues you're talking about, but your temp readings sound pretty normal to me.

[benanna 0]

Cheers Cheesewire....Exhaust gases are very hot, couldn't be good for it. yah timing sounds more probable as thing go on.... :(

Shame I have to go back in, Believe me I was glad to get out. Dont think I'll go at it till the w/end!!!! if I can figure out how to post a few photos of the setup, maybe someone can check them out for me as I checked it out so many times when I was putting her back together. Everytime I close my eyes now I can see chains and marks.

But I guess it could be worst......Learning curve as they say

[plateletboy 0]

would you be able to read unusual timing values in VAG-com if the sprocket was out by one tooth..??

or would it be a case of it 'not knowing' because it gets its values from the cam sensor.?!?

[tandino 0]

I agree......

But after a short ride at a legal pace, the engine seems to have done a few laps at silverstone....Fry an egg on the intake manifold and the exhaust is creaking and cracking for 5 -10 minutes later. I've taken it for a 60 mile round trip gets no better or worst.

did use a coolant called EXCL 5 form global lubricants....pink stuff, mixed it 1:1 with water...my be I should replace.... any ideals

 

Your only supposed to use genuine VW G12 coolant in VR's.

 

 

Never heard of that one before.....

So what of the VR's that were produced in 1991 before G12 was commonplace?

I would say that if the coolant he has used is pink then it would be either G12 or the later G12+ anyhow....

 

Other thing to check - is your Auxilary water pump working?

Mine failed when i was on track at Goodwood once and luckilly i spotted it before the coolant threw itself all over the bay......

[dr_mat 0]

All VWs use the same coolant now - G12+, which has replaced both G11 and G12, iirc.

[Chris_Corrado_VR6 0]

Hi

Sorry to jump in but my engine runs hot as well (oil typically 100c shortish journey but 116c @ 70-80). I had a remanufactured engine from Vege and am now wondering if the chains are correctly aligned. Other than taking the rocker cover off is there any way of telling?? :?

[latestarter2 0]

Seems we are all jumpy about the same thing...mine runs "hot".or so I thought. Oil between 96 and 100 and water hovering around the 100c mark but it seems everybody elses is running at those kind of temps too.

 

mind you my fan doesn't cut in till 105ish so i think thats wrong?

[dr_mat 0]

Hi

Sorry to jump in but my engine runs hot as well (oil typically 100c shortish journey but 116c @ 70-80). I had a remanufactured engine from Vege and am now wondering if the chains are correctly aligned. Other than taking the rocker cover off is there any way of telling?? :?

 

You don't have a problem.. as has been stated a million times before - these are perfectly normal temps for a standard unmodified VR6 Corrado.

 

Seems we are all jumpy about the same thing...mine runs "hot".or so I thought. Oil between 96 and 100 and water hovering around the 100c mark but it seems everybody elses is running at those kind of temps too.

 

mind you my fan doesn't cut in till 105ish so i think thats wrong?

 

But you have a dodgy fan thermoswitch!

[benanna 0]

Yes Vr6 engine are known to run hot.......Add I agree nothing to worry about with the temperatures I'm getting. It,s just that since the chains have been done, the engine is spanking hot....hot smell....creaking and cracking in the exhaust. It's just not normal I think?

I'm just in from striping down the rocket cover to check the timing, and all the marks are lining up as they should. Also can see the notch on the intermediate spockets and it seems as it should be.

Plates slip into the cams, both are horizontal. One turn of the crack, cams have made half circle with slots horizontal again only with the beefy side up. Another full turn of the crack and cams are back to the original spot with the plates fitting in as they should. Also no slack in the chain between the two cam spockets and the tensioner has that up any play.

Is there any more checks that I can make??

[latestarter2 0]

Hi

Sorry to jump in but my engine runs hot as well (oil typically 100c shortish journey but 116c @ 70-80). I had a remanufactured engine from Vege and am now wondering if the chains are correctly aligned. Other than taking the rocker cover off is there any way of telling?? :?

 

You don't have a problem.. as has been stated a million times before - these are perfectly normal temps for a standard unmodified VR6 Corrado.

 

Seems we are all jumpy about the same thing...mine runs "hot".or so I thought. Oil between 96 and 100 and water hovering around the 100c mark but it seems everybody elses is running at those kind of temps too.

 

mind you my fan doesn't cut in till 105ish so i think thats wrong?

 

But you have a dodgy fan thermoswitch![/quote:36hu29xi]

 

thought as much :-( lol. i'll put it on the list of jobs to do.

[Chris_Corrado_VR6 0]

My water temp on the instruments was always high (110c) and I swopped the sender and the rad switch a couple of times with replacement GSF ones. In the end I bought VAG ones and hey presto the water temp is now dead on the line at 90 - so I would advise yout to use original senders as they are reliable (in my experience). I knew the old temp reading couldnt have been right as you could take the filler cap off the header tank and it didnt boil over so it couldnt have been near 100c.

[Neil VR6 0]

Hey hey. The water temp on mine sitting in traffic after a long run went up to the mark between 110 and the thicker "mid" line which it usually sits at when it's on the move. I'd guess this is about 100 degrees although no warning lights came on. Is this normal or should I invest in a low temp thermostat? Cheers 8)

[fla 9]

Today i was doing a lot of town driving. Lots of stop starts and crawling along at 20mph. Stuck in traffic the oil went up to 104 and then during the drive around town it went up to 110. Normally i dont see much more than 102/104 at any time. Water was around 94ish and fans were coming on properly. I have 2x11" spals. My only other thought is perhaps there is low oil flow in the mocal. Is there any way to check this? My cooler is mounted on the slam panel by the passenger light, but i also have the aircon rad behind it.