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Project Plum - The Plan of Attack

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:lol: sorry to all who worried! Just being a bit cheeky to get an answer. Shame on me :-(

 

IIRC it's the drivers side. Luckily, I have been lazy enough to keep the bonnet cable linked to the handle inside the cabin, so perhaps I should just thread it back through and then just use it as per normal!

The grille has been off for a while, same with the lights, and the bumper is held on by 1 big bolt either side.

 

Cheers for all the help :D nice to feel some plum love ( hope Toad's not reading this...)

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Mulling through my thoughts on the Plum, I have broken most things down into their constituent parts:

 

 

Engine & Drivetrain

 

Will stay with the 1.8 16v for now. Need to find one from a Corrado (or find out the clutch setup differences from the Mk2 Golf – anyone?). No intention of changing the gearbox so that can stay as it is. New gearchange cables perhaps? Not sure if they’re readily available. Potential gearbox turret overhaul. Both clutch cylinders thought to be serviceable. Clutch itself thought to be good, but easy enough to check as it’s all dismantled. Exhaust system is Powerflow Stainless Steel from downpipe back. Potential replacement of manifold and downpipe with 4-2-1 stainless manifold.

 

Thoughts of engine swaps draw a blank – 20vt too sheepish. 2.0 16v swap may involve wiring and injection system change. All others too expensive.

 

 

Suspension

 

Currently on OEM Boge Gas VR6 shocks and 16v springs all around. Epic ride height. Handles well and absorbs bumps though which is to be expected from a new standard set up. Has currently covered about 10 miles in the last 3 years, so hoping they are all still in good usable condition. Struts built with all new VAG hardware excluding springs in 2008/9.

 

 

Steering

 

Standard PAS setup. PAS lines not connected, which may have led to the death of the rack internally due to my own laziness (and lack of chassis rail bracket to hold PAS tank). Will have to check the rack is ok – overhauled externally in 2008/9 but no info about dirt /ice ingress into internals. Known to still be working with front end jacked up and R&P mech hasn’t seized.

 

 

Brakes

 

Currently no brakes on front wheels, rears have new discs on due to them holding the bearings. Hoping to use standard G60 setup on front with all new parts. Perhaps ally / mk4 calipers on the rear if funds allow. Also looking at braided brake hoses. Hard lines 50% replaced with Cupro-Nickel lines so will need to be finished. New Brake Bias Reg at the rear already. Potential replacement of brake M/C – servos normally bulletproof.

 

 

 

Chassis

 

Front end setup (subframe, wishbones, ARB) all in good condition after copious use of waxoyl back in 2008/9. Nothing needs replacing. Rear axle believed to be from mk2 golf (lack of strengthening plates) needs some work as adjustable NS bracket needs positioning – use new chassis dimensions scan to align axle properly if not already done. Axle may need to be removed to finish hard brake line replacement. All rear hardware (stub axles, bearings, etc) replaced in 2008/9. Wheels will remain 15” Sebrings for now. All 4 tyres are dubious or destroyed so will get replaced.

 

 

Bodywork

 

Tailgate showing some rust under edge of window rubber. Found replacement nearby in DBP for £50. Not sure of condition. OSR/NSR window also needs replacing. Both front wings deteriorated on arch and the bottom edge where they wrap under chassis. Potential fix to wings due to lack of early body parts (esp DBP) on the cards. Doors and bumpers are fine. Serious corrosion on NSF chassis rail below battery tray. Replacement VAG tray £50 – not viable. Area to be ground back and rewelded using MIG and steel plating. Also some floorpan work to be done due to poor repair in the past / rusty welding.

 

Potential DBP full external respray will remain a pipe dream. Retumbling of locks to enable single key use for all 3 doors would be a bonus.

 

 

Electrics

 

Full rewire of electric windows and central locking circuits. Fusebox imitating red spaghetti with the occasional fuse and relay lurking. All instruments working well as far as memory serves. Dash guage replacement due to faulty temp gauge – thanks to CazzaVR for that. New CL & EW control module thanks to ProdigalSon. Electric Mirrors a bit “grumbly” but work. Sunroof still works faultlessly (for now). Brand new uprated headlight loom added to list. Ignition switch swap also necessary. New engine loom also necessary due to many brittle/broken wires fixed with bullets and spade connectors.

 

 

Interior

 

This section of minor importance. All black trim swapped in by (a) previous owner. Seats are dark with blue/green fleck. Possible replacement of black seats with purple fleck to match paintwork(!). JVC headunit and 6x9s in the parcel shelf more than adequate for sound. Carpets slightly damaged but possibly usable. All sound proofing currently stripped (from floor), research for best value replacement.

 

 

Just some notes I formed into some kind of order really. All comments, criticism and advice welcome as always.

 

Jon aka turborangutan.

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Blimey! Do you really want to do all that?! I know you like a project, but that will take a while...

 

Cost it all up in £ and hours. Then, make a decision as to whether it's worth it. If the cost is similar to buying a pretty decent Rado that doesn't require much work, I'm sorry to say, but I think I'd break the Plum, cut my losses and get stuck into a new Corrado that won't require such a big money and time outlay.

 

My 2p :(

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Wow, it's times like this when I'm pretty pleased with my petty little 'to do' list!

 

I agree with Cazza to a point - it may be cheaper to break and get something a little more complete, but it really depends what you want out of the plum. The plum is definitely not going to be easy to get back on the road, but it does make a very good project, which I get the impression you are after more than anything else (and so a high cost in hours could actually be a plus point!). Plus you need to factor in that you know the Plum - where it is strong, where it needs work, whereas a new Corrado may look okay on the surface, but horrors may lurk beneath.

 

On the other hand, if you feel sad every time you look at it, wishing you could drive it, then definitely time to weigh up your options.

 

I'll chip in a little on what I know!

 

Engine - Corrado and Golf 16v have the same engine code as you know. I've had a quick look on Vagcat and the Corrado has a bigger clutch, but to be honest I can't see that being a problem as surely the blocks are the same? At worst you may have to keep your flywheel if they're different. A popular swap for the MK2 boys is the 9a bottom end with the KR head and MK2 gearbox (not quite as popular as the ABF out of the MK3, but you suggested you don't want to change much!). This will allow you to get more torque while keeping all the injection system the same. If you're dead set on staying with a 1.8, another way to look at it is that if you can get a Corrado 9a engine into a Golf, then you should be able to get a Golf KR engine into a Corrado.

 

Steering rack - you really need to know this is okay before the engine goes in! May be worth swapping anyway if you can get a cheap second hand one if you can't be sure?

 

Brakes - I've still got my old 280 calipers and carriers off the VR spare if you want to save some dollar. Need new seals but otherwise good

 

Chassis - if the rear axle had to come off, I would be tempted to swap for a proper Corrado one. Chassis leg rust would worry me! For the floorpans, see if you can clean them up. I'm not sure whether the Corrado and MK2 floors are the same, but VW heritage do replacement MK2 floor panels for pretty cheap.

 

Electrics - I thought all electric mirrors on VWs this age were grumbly?!? The ones on my VR and the missus MK2 both make a loud whirring noise on both sides, so I thought it was normal. The ones on the A4 are positively silky in comparison!

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That's not that bad a list tbh, a Corrado would have to be really bad to warrant breaking... the problem is the more you think about it the longer the list gets.

 

You've done the right thing breaking it into sections, suspension sounds fine, I would get the brakes on and maybe do the rest of the hardlines, give it a service, 4 new tyres and get it through an MOT - that way you'll at least have a complete / working / running car that's not going to p1ss you off every time you look at it!

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@CazzaVR, I think this is the comprehensive list of getting back to standard unmodified condition. You're right, it's an enormous list! I'm sure once I think about it I can pick and choose what to do and what to leave. Yes, I am still weighing up breaking it to be honest or at least selling as a whole if someone feels brave!

 

@tony_ack, I feel happy cos it's such a nice car and also sad that the last time it was driven was almost 3.5 years ago. It's kind of bitter sweet. It is a bit of a mongrel build to be honest, and as mentioned I'd want to rewire the enginebay anyways so not really much stopping me from changing the engine! :?

 

@steve, I need an engine first matey :/ The block that's in there is the one from when the clutched water pump pulley let go just outside of Winchester years ago. So I'm calling the block a write-off and not sure about the head - probs check it for warpage. They're both out of the car now, so the engine bay is empty to finish hard brake lines etc but it's just finding the time. Realistically I probs won't find the time for another few months, or years, so perhaps it would make more sense to let it go to someone who is better equipped for the job.

 

---------- Post added at 08:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:34 AM ----------

 

Rough Prices:

 

Engine - £300,

Tyres - £200,

Brakes - £200,

PAS - £50,

New Wiring - £100 perhaps,

Welding / Bodywork - £200 perhaps.

 

So just for those bits we're looking at £1000. Hmm.

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That's a modest list when you think about it... There are allot of "ifs" but i think most of that stuff could be done in a few good days. With a new engine the Pas will be easy to swap... new tyres might be expensive but for an MOT part worn might be a better bet just to get you on the road. The brakes are reasonable new from VWspares and there are companies that can get braided hose made to order for half what you'll pay online for a standard set.

 

And you not living in Dundee means there is no cake tax like up here so that should save you a few bob too

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Yeah, there's a lot to think about. Realistically I bought it in Feb 08, drove it until about September 08 and then the water pump sodded off and it's been off the road ever since - so over 3 years now.

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tbh, i've spoken to the mrs and I'm going to let the C go. It's our first year of marriage and it's not fair on her to spend more time with the car than I do with her indoors. I'm not sure about breaking it and posting parts, so I may end up selling as spares or repairs for some criminally low fee! Otherwise, if people are willing to come to Oxford then I'll be happy to give decent rates, make a pot of tea and even supply twixes at no charge :D Actually I can probs send a fair bit of it, esp the new items I haven't fitted yet.

 

It has been a lot of fun owning it. I know I will be back, the Mk2 golf is great but it isn't as capable as the Corrado. I will keep visiting the forum of course, and helping out where I can with CAD and advice (hmm, CADvice... :lol:) and I might even get to a meet soon. Last one was Volksfest 2008! Shared a tent with dukest. Good times :D

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That's a shame, but sounds quite sensible, I totally understand, I'm maintaining 3 old cars plus just completely refitted the whole kitchen in my house, and I've got a family to spend some time with somehow.

Bleeding brakes isn't exactly the shared quality time my wife thinks of :)

You can always find another one (car that is!) at some point, when time/space/money etc are more suitable.

Some great detailed posts on the work you have carried out on the old plum, was always good reading :)

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Sorry to hear you want to part with it but having seen the lack of progress over the last year or two because of your very busy life, it did seem to be heading that way so can totally understand.

 

So with that in mind, what condition is the rear bumper in mate and what would you want for it? How is the paint on it? ;)

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@davidwort, thanks matey. I think I was quite optimistic with restoring a C on a student loan, and now i've graduated its even busier! :lol: I'm sure I will be back in a Corrado. I've kinda fallen for the DBP colour though so I'll have my eye out for another one of those. Although I'd settle for one of the other dark pearls :D Thanks, it's good to be able to document the stuff you've been doing. In fact I've had to flick back through this post to remind myself of how far I got with it all sometimes! :lol:

 

@Jim, yeah it's a shame. I did have high hopes, unfortunately the finances and space didn't match! But I will be back in one for sure. As for the bumper, I will check for you. I have never had it off the car so I can't say what the actual bracket is like. As the car is being stripped I'm happy to remove though and take some pics. Would you be able to collect?

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Alex CrumbleBelly, I hardly consider half a G60 stuck somewhere in the tundra of the himalayan highlands "a win" over the subtle beauty and iconic grace of an early burgundy past its prime.

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You will miss having that permanent fixture on the drive, that something to look at and then dream 'only if...'. But I think that with the time and money that you don't have in the first year of marriage then it makes sense.

 

On the other hand, you're entering a time in your life now where doing things like owning a classic car is going to become more difficult.

 

And you were talking about getting rid of the MK2 as well so does that mean rep-mobile-ia beckons?

 

Whatever you do, if you sell it whole make sure it is to someone that you know has the same dedication as you to restore it. I sold a really early and very solid MK2 GTI project (1985) a few months ago for a criminally low price because I needed to get rid of my lockup. I let it go for slightly cheaper as he was keen to finish it off and restore it. I found it being broken on eBay a week later.

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Sorry to hear your selling but I suppose needs must :(

 

If you do break give me a shout as I may be interested in some body parts *vultures start to circle*

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Nice to see someone else who kept the original sebrings! thought i was the only one how uses 15 inch alloys :lol:

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Big shame to hear. Anything we can do to convince you to keep her? :norty:

 

I've found a buyer for my old flat, meaning I have to empty the garage. In there is a (working) bare KR block, front 16v brakes and lots of other random valver bits which could be donated (Just need them gone otherwise they'll be scrapped and I'm rubbish at selling). Had some interest in terms of collection but nobody has really committed so it's first come first serve.

 

You know it makes sense! ;)

 

Nick

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I'm afraid not matey. Ideally it needs a new OSF chassis rail cos of the rot under the battery along with some panels on the floor too so it's structural.

 

I've posted up the bits for sale thread now. I'm not goina to rush back into one, esp as I want another DBP!

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Sorry to hear mate but needs must and at least it will go to keeping other cars on the road.

 

Plus DBP is the only way forward :D

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