Supercharged 2 Posted August 15, 2009 (edited) Been wanting to do this conversion for a while as I got some calipers / carriers cheap on eBay and also bought some re-drilled 312mm discs from Badger5 - 2 existing holes used but made smaller with an insert and 2 new ones drilled. I tried my 16" wheels on Dinkus's car a while ago to check clearance and it was close but fine so this also made sense to do even thought it's not a straight forward conversion... The other reason to do this was I am running a MK4 TDI engine which is putting out around 150BHP and these are the brakes that would be fitted to the same model of Golf. I'm already running the MK4 rear calipers so it makes sense to do the fronts too. Now, on a VR6 (Plus suspension) you need to space out the carrier by 6mm to get the offset right, I originally hoped the carriers would just fit on a 4 stud (Base suspension) but found they needed approx 4mm taking off the mating surface to match the offset of the discs which makes sense as 'Widetrack' = 10mm per side. I got the carriers machined by a local metal precision place for £30 which I thought wasn't bad at all! climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfDSCF2207.JPG[/attachment:37] [ATTACH=CONFIG]35025[/ATTACH] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSCF2210.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] The Later ATE calipers that are used in this conversion use 54mm Pistons, the same as the 256/280mm Lucas / Girling setup which is handy, this means the 22.2mm master cylinder will be fine and won't give a really long pedal like the Girling-60 twin pot conversion or Brembo's which really require the slightly larger ABS master cyl or the 25mm ones from the Audi UR Quattro. I think one of the best features of the Corrado is the progressive brake feel and this keeps it whilst giving a bit more braking power due to the massive pads and less chance of fade due to heat because of the much larger and wider discs. I decided to also change the Master Cylinder for a new one as the car had now done 250k miles and it being the one component of the braking system that could fail and leave you with no brakes whatsoever! This was actually much easier than I thought with all the union nuts coming off fine, I drained the brake fluid bottle and also replaced this along with the line to the clutch master - a bit awkward but fairly simple job to do and made sense as I was also changing the front brake lines and calipers so would loose fluid anyway.2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSCF2219.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Some of the pics are in a bit of a random order as I trial fitted the brakes a couple of weeks ago but found the carriers were a little too close to the disc on the outside of the car so decided to remove to more material from the inside of the carrier to give a bit more clearance and margin for error... I also found one of my wheel bearings had a slight amount of play (this was noticed when the disc started rubbing the carrier at certain steering angles!!) - I was surprised by this as the 2 fronts were replaced by Stealth less than 40k miles ago but I did know they were non-genuine bearings plus the car is putting out approx 320Nm of torque - also maybe not helped by 10 laps of Castle Coombe the other week :nuts: After undoing the hub nuts I found that bearing had practically fallen apart and the other side was also completly knackered - maybe a good test this to undo the hubnut to check these as the other side had no detectable play with a bar under the wheel before hand so probably would have also passed an MOT like that :? Was impressed with how well the 250k mile hubs came up after 5 mins with a wire brush :) Obviously I had them blasted before the new (VAG) bearings were pressed in but always suprised at how well nearly 20 year old parts come up! Decided against powder coating for these as it's a bit thick for a part which has so many other bits bolted to it and the paint may crack as stuff is done up. climatronic-manual-eng.pdfDSCF2171.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Used a Zinc primer then a heat resistant Plasti-Kote - hopefully this will last as well as OEM but only time will tell! passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSCF2180.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Stripping everything down was easy, already had brakes apart numerous times on this car and a Snap-On impact wrench helps get all the suspension stuff off easily! When I did the wishbones I found bent drop links, due to the car being stupidly low I think, these are now fine but found both Ball Joint pinch bolts to be bent! Think this is due to me seriously overtightening them last time as I was having issues with them wearing out which again was due to the low suspension I had before I think... Torque for these should be 50Nm and I think they were well over 100 as I couldn't undo by hand easily and had to use the gun :shock: SHELSLEY_ENTRY_CLASSIC_JULY_11.pdfDSCF2183.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Hub off.... SHELSLEY_ENTRY_23RD_JULY_2011.pdfDSCF2184.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Notice the bottle jack used to keep the wishbone at that point - this is because I used a camber gauge to keep things roughly in check - will still get proper alignment done before I put the next pair of tyres on though. Vacuum Hoses.pdfDSCF2185.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Hub looking nice and new, all threads all taped / restored to get rid of the excess paint - that bolt in the pic should be in the ABS sensor hole to keep the crud out. (non-ABS car) Corrado Parts.zipDSCF2189.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Suspension bolts plus the new bits you get in the wheel bearing kit - you also get a torx screw for the brake disc which I can't use due to them being re-drilled and also a new hub nut but I am using the MK3/Plus ones with the built in washer. Small tube of grease for the CV splines too. LOG-01-001-003-004.pdfDSCF2190.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Everything back in place ready to be alligned and torqued up, Suspension strut nuts to 95Nm, Ball Joint 50Nm, Track rod 35Nm and Hub Nut 265Nm (car on ground for final torque) and you must use at least new nuts with all of these. Corrado94.pdfDSCF2192.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Copper grease used on all bolts and mating faces Corrado conversion V2 (3).pdfDSCF2194.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Camber gauge - set adjustable bit to 0 before removing hub and then try to get to the same setting while doing up the strut nuts (these are the only things that should affect camber with what I have removed as I've not touched the 3 Ball Joint to Wishbone bolts. Picture also shows the Ball Joint tool you need to undo the track rod ends without messing up the thread or ripping the boot. Book1.pdfDSCF2196.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] MK4 Brake splash shields (to protect brakes from water and grease from a CV boot failure) - I thought these would fit and they clear the ball joint ok but require a 7mm hole drilled where the red dot is, also on an ABS car you would need to cut across where I have put the red line for the ABS sensor to clear. Apart from that thay are a good fit! stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfDSCF2199.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Always amazes me how many tools are needed for just working on such a small area of the car!! ETKA Corrado.pdfDSCF2200.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Goodridge hoses with stainless ends - I actually fitted these with the calipers a couple of weeks ago... The Stainless ends are a must IMO and worth paying the extra for - the 4 year old ones I took off the car were corroded worse that 10-12 year old VAG ones. Goodridge should really make these standard like on the Bike kits they do. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfDSCF2203.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Corrado92.pdfDSCF2205.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Still looks quite small in the Corrado arch! passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSCF2206.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Carriers trial fitted again before taking material off the inner part of the left hand side to give more clearance - will see how these go before getting them blasted and painted. Carrier bolts done up to 125Nm and I used the standard Corrado ones - a bit long but fine for a non abs car. DSCF2214.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg] Edited March 3, 2016 by Supercharged Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
emu 0 Posted August 15, 2009 Very helpful guide :cheers: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted August 15, 2009 Superb work and superb information dude.. really good read! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted March 6, 2010 bookmarked,thnks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rolex 0 Posted March 12, 2010 how did you get on with clearance on the carrier? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 13, 2010 how did you get on with clearance on the carrier? Hi mate - how do you mean? I had to remove 3mm from the mating face of the carrier - this is shown in the first pic and I also filled away some material in the bit where the disc sits to make it more even side to side. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rolex 0 Posted March 14, 2010 Carriers trial fitted again before taking material off the inner part of the left hand side to give more clearance - will see how these go before getting them blasted and painted. sorry, i thought you were going to see how you got on with the clearance? but i guess its right and know need for adjustment. Helpful guide :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 15, 2010 I also found one of my wheel bearings had a slight amount of play (this was noticed when the disc started rubbing the carrier at certain steering angles!!) - I was surprised by this as the 2 fronts were replaced by Stealth less than 40k miles ago but I did know they were non-genuine bearings plus the car is putting out approx 320Nm of torque - also maybe not helped by 10 laps of Castle Coombe the other week :nuts: I think VW have been reducing the quality of things again. I did my rear bearings with the 280 rear discs 2 years ago and they're f'cked already - groaning loudly at 70mph. Fairly sure the fronts are f'cked too as like yours, the discs are rubbing on things at certain steering angles - and they were done about 20K ago. So if I was to undo a hub nut and jack it up, can you tell if the bearing's fubar'd without taking it all apart? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 15, 2010 So if I was to undo a hub nut and jack it up, can you tell if the bearing's fubar'd without taking it all apart? These were schitty old FAG bearings from GSF Kev, new VAG ones are still fine... ... yeah basically, mine was fine as far as an 'MOT' check went - no detectable play until I undid the hub nut and the hub itself just wobbled about, both sides were shot to bits! If you are going to do yours again I would get 2 spare hub carriers, have them blasted like I did above, get new brearings pressed in then paint and you could also fit the tie rod flip kit while you're at it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 16, 2010 So if I was to undo a hub nut and jack it up, can you tell if the bearing's fubar'd without taking it all apart? These were schitty old FAG bearings from GSF Kev, new VAG ones are still fine... ... yeah basically, mine was fine as far as an 'MOT' check went - no detectable play until I undid the hub nut and the hub itself just wobbled about, both sides were shot to bits! If you are going to do yours again I would get 2 spare hub carriers, have them blasted like I did above, get new brearings pressed in then paint and you could also fit the tie rod flip kit while you're at it. Ah, the good old FAG, PMSL! Yeah that's a good idea with the hub carriers, exactly what i was thinking. How is the tie rod flip working? A good reduction in bump steer? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted March 16, 2010 So if I was to undo a hub nut and jack it up, can you tell if the bearing's fubar'd without taking it all apart? These were schitty old FAG bearings from GSF Kev, new VAG ones are still fine... ... yeah basically, mine was fine as far as an 'MOT' check went - no detectable play until I undid the hub nut and the hub itself just wobbled about, both sides were shot to bits! If you are going to do yours again I would get 2 spare hub carriers, have them blasted like I did above, get new brearings pressed in then paint and you could also fit the tie rod flip kit while you're at it. Ah, the good old FAG, PMSL! Yeah that's a good idea with the hub carriers, exactly what i was thinking. How is the tie rod flip working? A good reduction in bump steer? I might have a pair I could give you to get blasted, painted and fitted. Could throw them in the boot for when we meet up for our little trip away. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 16, 2010 Top man, sounds like a plan :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slimg60 0 Posted January 27, 2011 So are the only 2 mods to shave 3/4mm off the carrier and drill a hole in the splash guard? What hoses are needed for these? custom or off the shelf? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted January 27, 2011 So are the only 2 mods to shave 3/4mm off the carrier and drill a hole in the splash guard? What hoses are needed for these? custom or off the shelf? Yeah basically - it's tricky getting the amount you need to remove correct - I gave the machine shop the carriers / discs and a spare hub but still had to file away slightly at the part of the carrier the disc runs through for it to clear - I had issues with them rubbing as the brakes heated up. All good now though, been on over a year and I've done about 18k miles - pads around half worn and discs still look new! Hoses - same as you would on a VR using 288's / 312's, either standard late VR6 Golf or Goodridge which I used... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slimg60 0 Posted January 27, 2011 excellent, is there a noticable difference in stopping power? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted January 27, 2011 excellent, is there a noticable difference in stopping power? Yeah although I had a pretty good 280mm setup with Black diamond discs and DS2500's and the 312's are just standard VAG so maybe not as much but is still a lot better and more stable at higher speeds - braking from 80 feels much more positive. Less chance of fade too as the bad contact area is around 50% more - will probably fit uprated pads next year too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted January 27, 2011 I'm confused as to how that camber guage works. Did you have to make your wishbone fully parallel to the floor and then measure camber at 2deg or whatever it is? :scratch: also, isn't that brake shield on the wrong way round? I always thought they wrapped around the edge of the disc, not curved away from them. good thread though :D been meaning to ask you about the TDI swap! nice colour car too ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted January 27, 2011 Hi mate - All I'm doing with that gauge is sticking an axle stand under the wishbone so it doesn't move and setting it to O (you adjust it) then making sure it's at zero again when doing the suspension bolts back up... it's not perfect but gets it very close - I'd still advise a full suspension setup though after any work like that, it's well worth it and the car has driven perfectly ever since! Brake sheilds correct as it's a MK4 one - the idea I think is that they protect the brakes from a CV boot fairlure plus water etc... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slimg60 0 Posted February 8, 2011 Is it possible to measure the hoses for me please? I've got the parts to do this but found somewhere to get the hoses made up cheaper Cheers Slim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slimg60 0 Posted February 9, 2011 For anyone looking at doing this conversion, CRN Performance are able to supply pre-drilled discs at £70-80 a pair, the cheapest I've found them by far. http://www.crnperformance.co.uk/store/index.php/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ricardo_lombardi 10 Posted September 3, 2012 hi guys just looking threw this thread im in the right place to ask about converting my 92 g60 with porsche boxter calipers that i have aqiured :thumbleft: i have never done this before not sure where to start or what parts i reqiure for example disk size ect im am trying to acheive the big brake look can any one throw some light on this for me plz Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted November 29, 2012 hi guys just looking threw this thread im in the right place to ask about converting my 92 g60 with porsche boxter calipers that i have aqiured :thumbleft: i have never done this before not sure where to start or what parts i reqiure for example disk size ect im am trying to acheive the big brake look can any one throw some light on this for me plz Hi mate, you're probably better searching for 'seat 305mm' for that conversion as the rear boxster calipers are compatible with the 4-stud setup found on the Ibiza Cupra R - very good upgrade using all off the shelf parts. ---------- Post added at 7:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:37 PM ---------- Well, 3 and a bit years on and the brakes are still great - just poweful enough to inspire confidence but not lock up - have done around 45k miles since the conversion and the VAG pads were almost down to the metal so have changed these for a set of EBC Green Stuff I had kicking around. Discs around half worn so should hopefully last until the next pad change. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Edwards 0 Posted January 31, 2014 Just to be clear, I'm wearing a full flame suit as i type this… Brand new 288mm with genuine VW disks and pads are good on a 5-stud; Brand new 280mm with genuine VW disks and pads are great on a 4-stud; Ibiza Brembos on a 4-stud are epic (when warm). Anything else will require a new master cylinder to better stock for bite and feel... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 9, 2014 (edited) Just to be clear, I'm wearing a full flame suit as i type this… Brand new 288mm with genuine VW disks and pads are good on a 5-stud; Brand new 280mm with genuine VW disks and pads are great on a 4-stud; Ibiza Brembos on a 4-stud are epic (when warm). Anything else will require a new master cylinder to better stock for bite and feel... ??? - Or this 312mm conversion on either car as no MC upgrade needed... Brakes are still great and have done 65k miles now... will need new discs on the next pad change later this year. Edited March 9, 2014 by Supercharged Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
