Scotts of Sloane Square "Carry on" Campaign

[Cressa 44]

9 minutes ago, James. said:

Thanks for that. Really helpful. I found a couple of other parts from VW classic Germany, so I'll add them to the wish list.

It's the drivers outer window scraper seal that I need. I remember Vintage Rubber in the states were making noise about putting them into production. Just have to sit tight and see what happens.

 

And that is EXACTLY what I needed someone to do. I'll add stripping the brackets off the old one to the jobs list.

 

Oh they will indeed !

Those connections on the replacement condenser look much better than the ones I have. The neck and connector on the one I have are copper and literally peeled away like an old plaster when I removed them.

Is your install a Diavia system from the dealer, or did you install it yourself ?

Mine is a Diavia fit system from the dealer. I decided in the last year to sort its problems out. The new pipework and connections I had done recently but weren't anything special. I took the old hoses and had them copied at the aircon place near me. 

There are a couple of diavia threads on here that are well worth a read. And one titled Davina aircon. 

I will source the receiver drier link out for you. 

[James. 9]

If you could, that would be great.

[Cressa 44]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00H8RUCRY/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_e0XREbE3XKY8C

8FT 351 199-011 HELLA is the model that was a perfect swap on mine. Removing a sticker on the top reveals a sight glass to see the bubbles!!!

I purchased mine off ebay but can not find the link. And do not connect it until you are ready to have the system all connected up, as it absorbs the moisture in the air.

Dont ask how I learnt about that... doh

[Cressa 44]

James, another to do is oil the o rings that you fit  to help with the seal. Replace any you can as it would be a pain to do when the front end is on.

Pag46 oil is what is in the compressor.  If you want a small pot of this I will happily find a pot and post you some 👍

[James. 9]

 

23 hours ago, Cressa said:

James, another to do is oil the o rings that you fit  to help with the seal. Replace any you can as it would be a pain to do when the front end is on.

Pag46 oil is what is in the compressor.  If you want a small pot of this I will happily find a pot and post you some 👍

That's real kind of you. I'm going to get the car running first, and tackle the air con at the end of the year. But I'll keep the offer in mind if that's okay.

 

Few more pictures from this weeks jobs.

Cleaned and treated/de-rusted the rear/underneath of the slam panel. Removed the bonnet springs and treated them to attention from the wire wheel and half a dozen coats of coats of brush on POR15. Then black satin Hammerite (super happy as to how it came out. Brush stroke free and ends up real smooth).

        

 

Found my 10 year old, NOS of slam panel fittings for the bonnet pin locators (had to order black rivets as VW only had silver at the time). Oscar thought the rivet gun was brilliant, but disappointed he didn't have the hand strength to "pop". He did laugh at the fact that new bits were nearly as old as him.

 

Washed and cleaned the rear of the front bumper. Sprayed with primer and clear coated to match the rear bumper and floor pan. 

     

 

 

Rear

 

Received this weeks order of self tappers and speed clips, so switched out all the old fog and light fittings. Fitted the original dealer plate and found a NOS 90mm spoiler in storage (along with other bits I'd forgotten about)..

      

 

The more attentive among you, may have by now noticed that there's a distinct lack of car (where the bumper now sits).

That's because it's in the local garage having the brakes bled (and a new rear brake pipe fitted).

Fingers crossed it'll fire up next week and then next job MOT.

 

First time it's seen the sunshine for nine years.

 

 

Nice to be able to see the hard work in better detail (rather than the six inches from the end of my nose crawl space).

 

 

Edited May 8, 2020 by James.

[James. 9]

So after much swearing, cleaning, prodding, soaking and faffing, I’ve got the ABS module ready to be refit.

Thing is, I can’t find a dickie bird in Bentley about which brake pipes fit in which port on the controller. The shape and general seating of them kind of suggests where they go. Obviously I’d rather not work with “general locations” when it comes to brakes. 

Could some kind soul have a look at theirs and let me know which pipe locates where please ?

Edited June 22, 2020 by James.

[Cressa 44]

I'll get a pic in the morning

[James. 9]

10 hours ago, Cressa said:

I'll get a pic in the morning

That would be brilliant. Just need to know which port is assigned to which brake.

[Cressa 44]

I dont know if these pics help !!! It was at half 5 b4 I went to work..   or i can trace them tonight when I'm home

[James. 9]

Thanks. It’s more information than I have at the moment.

If you wouldn’t mind tracing them and letting me know, you’d be doing me a solid.

[Dox 23]

More difficult than you’d think.

 

L to R

 

rear master cylinder 

 

OSF

 

NSR

 

OSR

 

NSF

 

Master Cylinder front

 

Maybe someone else can confirm?

 

 

[seanl82 23]

I don't think that's correct Dox. I'm sure NSF is far right as you look at it. I'm away from home until Friday but I'm sure someone else will confirm. I had it written on a bit of card placed on the scuttle above the pump when I removed all mine. Typically I threw it away a few weeks ago when I fitted them though! Is this your 8v James? Is it the same pump set-up as a VR6 if so?

[Dox 23]

I don't think that's correct Dox. I'm sure NSF is far right as you look at it. I'm away from home until Friday but I'm sure someone else will confirm. I had it written on a bit of card placed on the scuttle above the pump when I removed all mine. Typically I threw it away a few weeks ago when I fitted them though! Is this your 8v James? Is it the same pump set-up as a VR6 if so?

Hope you can see in the pic far right goes to the left and then across the bulkhead?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[easypops 8]

Left to right

1. Master cylinder nearest servo

2. OS front wheel

3. Rear

4. Rear

5. NS front wheel

6. Master cylinder at the back , nearer to the front of the car

Edited June 23, 2020 by easypops

[seanl82 23]

1 hour ago, Dox said:

Hope you can see in the pic far right goes to the left and then across the bulkhead?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got it, I stand corrected mate. Better double check mine at the weekend then! Lol

[James. 9]

7 hours ago, seanl82 said:

Is this your 8v James? Is it the same pump set-up as a VR6 if so?

It’s for the VR6. The 8v has four ports. But thanks for flagging that up.

Edited June 23, 2020 by James.

[James. 9]

Since the last time I updated there's not been a lot going on. But this weekend I decided to correct that.

The garage I left it at had nothing but issues with the brakes. The replacement ABS controller stopped the screaming, but the light is still on. I'm checking the sensors for continuity (even though their new) this afternoon.

Had the brake master diagnosed as faulty, so sent it off to be refurbished by Past parts. Great service and communication. It cost £130 and the turn around was about 3 weeks. The brakes are firm but the clutch was hitting the floor. At that point I think they got too busy and too bored of seeing the car everyday. So I got the car back in September and parked it on the drive (other work going on in the garage).

That could now be considered a mistake. As that's where it sat, getting dusty, dirty, mouldy and covered in spiders webs.

Pretty deflated and not knowing what to do next, I covered it up and ignored it.

Months later, whilst half asleep and in the pitch black of night I backed the other car out of the garage and swiped the drivers door and front wing (Second time I've done it as well).

At that point I decided to make an effort to find space for it back in the garage.

That was about a month ago. Since then I've decided to throw some weekends and enthusiasm at it again.

Knowing the engine now will turn over, I connected a battery.

First thing to notice was the secondary water pump was screaming away. Water pipes aren't connected, so is this normal ? (doesn't sound it) unplugged it for the time being.

Checking the blowers revealed (that after testing) relay 18 was faulty. I switched it out with a spare, but I think I'l change this as the other is of dubious origins (Looks number 18 is hard to come by so will look at an alternative. VW relay 100 maybe ?). The fuse for the blowers pops as soon as I turn them on. I disconnected the blower motor from the loom and now the fuse doesn't blow. Hopefully I can remove the motor and get it spinning without resistance.

Sunroof sticks, which is disappointing as I had it working perfectly ( albeit 12 years ago ! ). Looks like the retracting cover is fouling on the frame. I took all this out years ago and adjusted it perfectly and re-attached the black liner. It looks like it's separated, got a bit baggy and seems to gather in the corner. It's a real awkward job, but thankfully something I've had a lot of practise doing.

Brake lights were constantly on. An easy (if a little awkward) fix. Adjusted the servo/pedal connection for the switch to engage at the right point.

Went through the other fuses/relays to check their condition.

Found the fuel pump relay (167) clicks but couldn't hear the pump priming. Granted there's no fuel at the moment, but would expect to hear some noise. Decided to bench test the unit and try to diagnose the issue. Taking it out and running 12v through it revealed the motor is goosed. I've read the other thread about fuel pumps (this is an early Pierburg 4 bar unit with a Q prefix) and have almost hit the wall with them. To buy, their either 3 bar units (P prefix) mis-advertised as 4 bar (complete), or you can only get the motor and not a float. I'm going to head back into the garage this afternoon and see if I can separate out just the motor. Oh and clean all the rust from the bottom of the tank that it's left behind.

When I got the car back, I was surprised to see that the clutch pedal hit the floor. While I was folded up in the footwell fixing the brake light switch I had a look at the master cylinder and found that it had started to leak. I couldn't find a replacement of the quality I wanted, so emailing Past parts this morning, they've just replied asking me to send it off for a rebuild.

Apologies for the lack of images, but at the moment it feels like an exercise in collecting problems and their ensuing receipts, rather than driving !

 

 

 

 

[seanl82 23]

Each small step adds to larger progress, good effort. It's having the consistent time to diagnose and repair these aspects which a lot of us struggle with, so despite periods where they're dormant it'll end in positive results. I had my brake master refurbished by past parts too. Good company to deal with and seemed very knowledgeable on the phone. Fixing some of the less commonly available parts (fuel pump) is a great thing to do now whilst there is still the possibility of acquiring them. Leaving it another year or so potentially ends any likelihood of sourcing OE type stuff so worth doing while you can. 👍

[Cressa 44]

One small step for man.....

Did you sort this?I'm checking the sensors for continuity (even though their new) this afternoon. 

If they test out okay it could be the ABS ring that is the problem. Plugging in a vagcom should tell you which wheel the problem is at.

The slave cylinder should be an easy fix when you swap it out,. Just a pain having to wait then bleed it when you get it back.

Was the ignition on a long time? I suppose the aux water pump was just screaming "I'M RED HOT" as it had no coolant to keep it a little cooler

I am super cautious of the sunroofs..Too expensive to repair if they break. After 12 yrs I would take it all out, clean and regrease then put her back, just to be on the safe side.... I know it's a days job,  but prevention is better than repair. But as it isnt that important yet I would go for the small wins in achieving any little jobs. Like the blower motor.

Well done for not giving up 👌👍

Your car is a gorgeous one

[James. 9]

2 hours ago, seanl82 said:

Leaving it another year or so potentially ends any likelihood of sourcing OE type stuff so worth doing while you can. 👍

I feel like that is where I’m at now. I must have blown hours looking for a fuel pump, with zero success.There’s a literally an abundance of 3 bar pumps. Sadly that isn’t the case for 4 bar ones. Anybody ran a 3 bar pump in a VR ? 

Edited January 24, 2022 by James.

[James. 9]

37 minutes ago, Cressa said:

Did you sort this?I'm checking the sensors for continuity (even though their new) this afternoon. 

Not today. By the time I stripped the fuel pump down and got the motor out, time was up. I’ll try again tomorrow.

Water pump was on for seconds. It’ll be the bearings. Kind of thought it would be, and it’s easily accessed so doesn’t worry me too much.

But yes, the emphasis is on getting it running first via those small wins. The sunroof doesn’t phase me, I’ll just strip it all out and start again. Same goes for the blowers. Shame about the bodywork, but it’s collected battle scars by just standing still in the garage.

I’ll drop the parcel off at the post office in the morning and have a look at the ABS soon after. I’ll update the findings 🙏🏼

Edited January 24, 2022 by James.

[Cressa 44]

Have a read of this. Keyo was the last person I know that did his 👍

[fla 9]

Any update pics James?

[James. 9]

On 1/26/2022 at 1:15 PM, fla said:

Any update pics James?

Only a couple. Slow going as I've a lot on. Just managing to dip in here and there.

Sent the Clutch master way for a refurb to past parts. I've said it before, but what a service. Took less than a fortnight door to door and came back as new. Cost £90.

 

Also ordered and received a new fuel pump from https://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk. It looks (at last for the time being) that this is a replacement pump for the later VDO unit. I've emailed them this morning to see if there's anything we can do, as the fuel pump from the pierburg unit is a little smaller in diameter. There's a solution out there, we just need to work out what it is. Anyone have a (working/faulty) VDO unit that they don't need anymore ?

 

In other news, the 8V paint is nearing completion:

 

 

I'll be calling in this afternoon to see the finished job. Hoping to get it trailered back on Friday, so that Oscar and I can start to rebuild it over half term next week.

Oh, and fit the Clutch master !

[James. 9]

What a day !

Having spent the last six months looking over my shoulder at the VR getting covered in more and more dust, and now having the 8v in a more “day to day” condition, I decided to re-visit the long term project.

After the 8v had an overnight stay at the local specialist, I quizzed about the fuel pump and a little advice. Get some pliers on the shaft and try to free it off. Put power through it and try running it backwards.

After a little soak of oil and more than a little persuasion, we had some movement. Lumpy at first, slowly freeing off with a little resistance.

That was a few months back. Half eight this morning, I’m fishing around in the tank, removing the pump to carry the same procedure out.

Pulled the fuel pipe from the rail and tested that the fuel ran off, when turning over (into a catch pot).

So we have fuel.

I’d already checked we had spark.

Pipes are all free and able to breath easy.

So what gives ?

I could smell petrol in the inlet of injector number 4. But none of the others.

Have I put the distributor back on 180deg out.

Turned the engine to TDC and re-fitted the dizzy as per Bentley.

Next up, checked the coil. All within Bentley parameters. Output when ignition on, pulsed etc.

Injectors. Resistance good. Immediately thought it must be blocked injectors ? But five going faulty to the same end. Mmm, not so sure. Power ? Nope, nothing, nada.

Ignition on and turning over, nish.

Bugger. Bentley advice: check loom back to the ecu. Great. Just about to start sticking pins in the wiring, but decided to check the obvious points of connection. About to rotate the main loom junction open and there it was, the main red/blue feed wire had been pushed out of the back of it’s housing.

Multimeter back on the injector connectors and we now have power at each and every one of them.

Feeling brave, I opted to chance my arm at starting it up.

I didn’t get chance to finish the line “ah well I tried”, and it burst into life. First time, no hesitation, as though it had started just yesterday.

Now it’s fair to say, I was pleased as punch  with this.

After twelve years of ups and downs the engine at least now runs.

I went back ten minutes later to fire it up again to check it wasn’t a flook. Whoosh. Same again. Brilliant, bloody brilliant.

Buoyed by the satisfaction of having the engine running, I spent the rest of the afternoon re-routing the wiring, hoses, pipes and radiator.

I’d forgot how tight it is in there (being spoiled with all that space in the engine bay of the 8v).

Hopefully I’ll have the opportunity to fill the cooling system this week. And then get the clutch bled. It would be great if I can drive it out of the garage on or before next weekend.

Being careful not to damage it again 🙄.

 

 

Edited September 11, 2022 by James.