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Rotrex Charged Storm: She's Gone!

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Thanks mate, when roughly do you think you will be able to post the recaro brand?

I only ask as i will need to give the trimmer a heads up.

 

Thanks. Paul

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Rams, sounds like you've been busy! All very positive though...

 

Vince is giving you very sound advice there not to fit the Green tops yet as will just over-fuel like crazy without a new Map, also think you've made a good choice going for his Mocal Kit as it is comprehensive!

 

Not sure what size Fuel Reg you will need, personally i would ask Vince what he has done on other cars he's mapped before with similar specs and running similar levels of boost.

 

That boost gauge looks great but the only thing you have to consider is how easy it will be to read when you've got your foot down and your trying to get a quick glance at it, agree that the pillar mounted ones don't look great though.

 

If you have new components (valves etc) in the head then i'd have thought some running-in would be needed, but not if your just keeping to stock head / block & just fitting up-rated fasteners.

 

re: the Rotrex traction yes i'd think you'd probably want a bit more than 3/4 to fully prime the system (the resovoir holds about 1/3 - 1/2 a bottle alone), sorry but i don't know if it has a shelf life.

 

HTH

Alex

 

 

I have the spark plugs now, Devilsown Methanol dc30 progressive kit, been chasing CCR and Bill Wchimmel for the last couple of bits I need. Engine spacer and arp head bolts and the inlet pipe from CCR.

 

Spoke to Vince and discussed dates etc for mapping and he's advised me to not put the green top injectors in but to bring them with me as it will just flood the engine, also to disconnect the fuse for the meth kit....

 

I ordered the mocal kit Vince sells and there's no stock so he's having one made which has a bolt extension, hoses and sandwich plate etc so that's one less thing to organise.

 

Been wondering what to do..... I have a stripped OBD2 head and I have another big valve obd1 head which all appears sound. The valves look a bit dirty so wondering if I should just clean them all up and run with the obd1 BV head or use my obd2 head and have the work done on that using the valves etc from the obd1 if that makes sense?

 

The obd1 I could remove valves and clean it all up and install and when I make the bottom end a forge setup, then use the obd2 with all the flow work done and see the obd1 BV head?

 

The obd2 head has this extra little cut out for additional lubrication... See pic.

 

The other question I have is will I need to order a new fuel regulator for mapping? The car the kit came from was using a webber one as he had the short runner so the standard 4 bar regulator was not used... Any ideas if I will need this?

 

I also have to make the hole the carbon canister fits in larger so there's no fowling on the metal where the silicone hose will go down... A friend suggested a due grinder? But this is quite messy.... Bobby will give me the measurements of his hole, easy...... And I will have this done next week and sealed and will find suitable trim to cover the edge so when the engine rocks it's all safe.

 

I am also looking into a boost gauge and after seeing this kind of set up below, going to contact them to see if they can make a one off design as I love design of the gauge and just blends in with the dash. When its off, you won't notice its there and never really been a fan of the pillar mount gauges.... They are not cheap mind you but hopefully they will be able to do something.

 

Will I have to run the engine in if I use new components in the head or is it just the bottom end that you need to run in?

 

Currently my inner arches are missing because the arches have been flared/rolled etc and where the filter and maf will be down in the bumper (driver side) I need some way of adapting the liner so I have the flap which has been mentioned in the F1 thread. Has anyone done anything similar? Maybe I can cut the flap bits off and modify it in some way?

 

Regarding Rotrex oil, I have a nearly full bottle but will I need more? I've probably got 3 quarters of a bottle which bobby didn't use. Would the oil have a shelf life or am I just been over cautious?

 

Any replies appreciated.

 

Rams

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Just a few pics of some of the bits that will be fitted soon, the spacer kit arrived, head stud kit and still waiting on CCR but hoping next week these last few bits arrive. Only waited 2 months for oil and inlet pipe and they are out of stock for the 90 mm pulley.

 

Engine should be out in the next couple of weeks and work will begin! Hoping it all goes smoothly.

 

Must finish exhaust wrap!!

 

Other than my tensioner pulley breaking today, not sure why it did but have ordered a new bearing and have a spare pulley that's part of the supercharger kit so I can get that fixed.mamy9e3u.jpg

Edited by Rams

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Rams, i still have my old Intake Pipework setup that G-Werks fabricated for me years ago (there's a pic in that link i posted earlier in your thread), if you get stuck you're welcome to borrow it until yours arrives from CCR, ditto i also have a full (sealed) bottle of Rotrex traction fluid as i always keep one full spare in case of emergencies.

 

Try these guys for a 90mm Rotrex Pulley

http://www.tts-performance.co.uk/

 

HTH

Alex

 

 

 

Just a few pics of some of the bits that will be fitted soon, the spacer kit arrived, head stud kit and still waiting on CCR but hoping next week these last few bits arrive. Only waited 2 months for oil and inlet pipe and they are out of stock for the 90 mm pulley.

 

Engine should be out in the next couple of weeks and work will begin! Hoping it all goes smoothly.

 

Must finish exhaust wrap!!

 

Other than my tensioner pulley breaking today, not sure why it did but have ordered a new bearing and have a spare pulley that's part of the supercharger kit so I can get that fixed.

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That's very kind of you to offer Alex, I've sent another email today asking who he's sent it with and when am I likely to receive it...?? I just hope when it eventually arrives that its a straight fit as I've asked for the obd2 inlet pipe. Craig had to adapt his and his came from a late golf.

 

My cupboards are bursting and the hinges so I've got to get this all done soon! Each day a new part arrives and just order a complete cooling set, pipe work, stat and new tensioner and pulley as well as new spare bearing. It only dawned on me that my temp gauge sits low and reading another recent thread it may appear that my thermostat isn't working correctly. The water pump is new when I did the chains.

Alex, what oil did you use? I took advantage of an offer TPS had a while back and have a few Of the 10 /40 silver stuff.

 

Mot runs out in 5 days so need to hope tensioner arrives in time. Fingers crossed.

 

Thanks for the link, will try the site again as its under construction or I will call them tomorrow to see what they charge. Without it, I'm up a certain creek without a paddle.

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Rams i've used the Silkolene / Fuchs Pro-S 10w 50 for quite a few years now and i think its the best out there for our 12v VR lumps, the engine seems to love the stuff (runs more smoothly & quieter and handles high temps very well)...i've used the 5w 40 in the 24v 4Motion and thats equally good too.

 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1145-silkolene-pro-s-10w-50-ester-synthetic-oil-for-high-performance-engines.aspx

 

Opie oils usually have a deal on it every couple of months

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So I took the tensioner off today as the new one arrived with Pulley as it had completely disintegrated.

 

It now sounds smoother and took no time at all. Picked up the m8 bolt for removing the belt and glad it's done now.

 

All the other coolant flanges and thermostats and seals arrived so that can all go on soon.

 

After taking my obd2 head down to have the big valves etc machined to fit from Johns spare head, I was told by the machine shop that the valves were standard size so I had to tell John that he was stitched up and it was indeed a standard head..

 

So I now need to find new valves and exhaust valves... Any ideas what the next size upgrades are and where I should be looking?

 

I also bought an adaptor from Devils own to rig up my silicone inlet pipe so it's all now sorted. Should be here in next day or so. So it's one more pulley 90 mm awaiting delivery and once the head is done I will have all the stuff fitted. I'm wondering if I should just get the supercharger on and deal with the BV head and bottom end in one go rather than sticking the BV head and taking it all off again to replace the bottom end. Will see how impatient I get.

 

Mot ran out on Sunday and did have her booked in for the Friday before but didn't want to chance the belt coming off and looking a bit embarrassed. I've got an indicator bulb out on front so will replace that in the morning and fingers crossed, she will fly through.

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Don't know where you went to get the head looked at.

Only one locally that may be able to help are JTR on the nuffield estate. They've sorted a fair few bits for myself and friends, may be able to sort the correct valves for you.

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Hey, that's where I've gone, dealing with Jason.

 

The plan was to use Johns BV head, well to strip it for the bigger valves etc and use my obd2 head which has the extra oil drain off point and have that machined to fit the bigger valves. We checked the specs on AAA and ABV and other than the additional oil drain off the sizes are exactly the same.

 

He didnt want to get involved in aftermarket/modified items, so i said i would source them all and he would do the work required. Seemed like decent chaps...

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Thanks for those, I've been playing snooker tonight and had a think about the head situation and I will probably proceed and install the kit and build the spare obd2 AAA 2.8 block and obd2 big valve head over the next few months and really make them as good as can be. So for now, hope the spacer kit will last on my engine which all seems healthy and I will install the 263's.

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Quick update

 

Picked up 2 bottles of g13 coolant, new tensioner bolts and as I'm replacing the chrome rocker cover which I will be advertising next week with the original plastic one and ordered new bolts and gasket.

 

Order a new sump and have a new gasket ready to go on.

 

Head is off, haven't had a proper look yet but so far all appears well. The head - 2 valves look a bit white compared to the others and not sure if this means its running lean? Maybe an injector issue?

 

Could it have anything to do with changing to OBD2 as it fuels differently?? Can't remember what Vince said when I was discussing the mapping but when I told him its OBD2 he mentioned needing to do something a different way/speed signal wire? He said have you plugged it in before and did it have a code appear? I don't recall any code.....?

 

The injectors are being removed and cleaned up/refitted so Vince will find it nice and easy to remove them. I can't run the new larger injectors till I arrive at Stealth and I will have to drive up there very slowly till he can change the injectors and map it up....

 

Should be all rebuilt by end of next week. Maybe the week after. I'm in no rush just more excited each time I see a new part of the car that hasn't been dismantled yet.

 

This weekend I will finish wrapping the manifold, it's in my Lounge to help push me to do it. I will count the swear words this time.

 

Also got to finish my wheels this weekend as I want to get them fitted before it leaves the garage. Bit more polishing and 4 tyres needed. I've got a leak on one of my D90's so will be able to have it fixed and might sell them for something else as a winter wheel.

 

Sent my loom and connectors to Kurzy for a new headlight loom, 90 mm pulley arrived, methanol liquid and all is set. Alex kindly sold me a new ribbed belt for a good price too.

 

Anyone have any pictures of the stealth oil cooler installs? My mechanic thinks the hoses are not long enough. It's the kit he was selling a while back if people have them?

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Manifold wrapped and my good buddy Kev sorted out some stainless wire and a special tool to tie and twist ends. Whilst he did that I spent the next 5 hours polishing my RH wheels, where I had them polished previously the machine company I used couldn't get into edges and corners so have been wet and dry rubbing with 320 grit for ages. Got it all smooth now and just need to go through the grades and will finish with a scotch pad ultra fine and metal polish as a final finish. Need to re seal dishes this week and get the new bolts torqued up and then order 4 tyres.

 

I bought some spigot rings for the RH's and now trying to find a 2 or 3 RH centre caps.

 

Head should be all built back up by Thursday with a bit of luck.

 

That's it for now

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pics of the progress on the wheels Rams?

 

I actually forgot to take some pictures, By the time I called it a day I was whacked.

 

The hard part is over now, it's just sorting the fine scratches and final polish.

 

Will get some pics up soon

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These pictures are after my friend sorted the dents and had them polished but the machine could get into the bottom flat section and around the spoke edges. The insides all painted, new gold bolts just to break it all up and if I ever paint the centres then I can put the original studs in. Going tomorrow night to do some more work on them. My friend has been great helping me out with them. I owe him a few bottles of something nice that's for sure.

 

They will be gleaming when I'm done, its just how long will they stay like that.

 

Dropped new sump, sump plug/washer and sump gasket. All new rocker cover fasteners, new rocker cover gasket. New K&N cone filter which shouldn't fowl on the bumper as the BMC filter I got was bent where the bumper slots in.

 

Just waiting on the new head light loom and the new stainless bolt kit to be sent, I also picked up the trumpet and grub screw for sorting my bonnet cable as it doesn't sit in the housing. The little grub screw was so corroded that if I tried to undo it, it was just fall apart.

 

It's taking shape steadily

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Just like to thank Kev and Alvin for helping me out with these wheels tonight, it felt like being in a concentration camp just all sat there quietly polishing and sanding but they're looking good. They will soon be ready for a final buff up.

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Really enjoy reading this thread. It brings back so many memories of building my car. It was such an exciting time rushing home from work every day to work on the car. Kind of miss it now it's all finished!

 

Looking forward to seeing how the Rotrex turns out too. I had a Rotrex kit ready to go on before I decided to go turbo (even cut the head to mount it!).

 

Should be a beast!

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I'm loving this thread aswell, especially as my rotrex c30-94 arrived today :).

 

Looking forward to seeing how the project goes and looks.

I do have a quick question though as I managed to bag myself a bargain getting my supercharger as bankrupt stock I didn't get a oil cooler supplied do you know what size cooler rotrex use in their kit??

Also where did you/ are you getting your pulley from?? Does anyone know a guy that can fabricate a nice one??

 

Sorry to spam your thread but I'm loving the work and loving those wheels :) I can't wait to get started myself now :)

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Thanks chaps, it's nice to reminiss about the good times. Each time I see the car and drop a new bit off or work on the wheels and drive home in my van, I think it will all be worth it.

 

Re the oil cooler for the Rotrex itself and the pulley, http://www.ccr-racing.com/shop/frontpage.html

These guys can supply you them. That's where I got my new pulley. I have now an 80mm and 90mm.

 

Also, Alex pointed out to me that there was a Rotrex pulley on eBay recently and I would recommend using the Rotrex pulley itself. That way, if there's any problems you can say its all how it should be.

 

Vince maybe a good person to ask for parts as he does the 'stealth oil catch tank'. He supplied me the engine oil cooler. I'm not exactly sure what the cooling properties are for the Rotrex oil cooler. CCR can probably answer that question.

 

Good luck with your install, hopefully my knowledge will be enough to assist others if you have any questions but Alex and Craig have been great for knowledge and helping me out.

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Quick update, the car has moved to the ramp area and the head is on and torqued up with the new ARP's. It's got to be finished by next week as the mechanic will need the ramp. So sump and rod bolts to replace, exhaust to deal with and fuel pump/sender to install. Then it's all the charger work and associated bits in the engine bay.

 

When ever we do work on the car, usually I'm there helping out but struggling to find time at present but I'm always the one that starts her up with a brief chat to the people above before the key is turned followed by dancing around like a drugged night clubber.

 

Will be carrying on with the wheels today and I've decided to go Falken 215 35 17 as the conti's are not in stock. Really looking forward to more boring hours of wax on/wax off. NOT

 

---------- Post added at 1:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:15 PM ----------

 

Quick update, the car has moved to the ramp area and the head is on and torqued up with the new ARP's. It's got to be finished by next week as the mechanic will need the ramp. So sump and rod bolts to replace, exhaust to deal with and fuel pump/sender to install. Then it's all the charger work and associated bits in the engine bay.

 

When ever we do work on the car, usually I'm there helping out but struggling to find time at present but I'm always the one that starts her up with a brief chat to the people above before the key is turned followed by dancing around like a drugged night clubber.

 

Will be carrying on with the wheels today and I've decided to go Falken 215 35 17 as the conti's are not in stock. Really looking forward to more boring hours of wax on/wax off. NOT

Edited by Rams

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Cheers mate that's fantastic help. I forgot to ask what fan belt is used??

I'm a while off having the funds to start, but I keep seeing this thread and wanting to get it done :(.

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