oneohtwo's VR6 - New Engine!

[_Matt_ 28]

oh no! Are you sure it isn't from the fuel pipe into the fuel rail? They can harden over time and leak. Mine were replaced because of this also. The fuel is at high pressure so it is feasible for it to spray everywhere. 

Each injector is locked into place with a little clip, perhaps one of those has worked its way loose as another place to look.

 

[oneohtwo 8]

Yeah, fairly sure. The pipes were new braided ones from Hel and didn't see any traces of fuel around them. Good shout on the clips, I'll have another poke around and see if I can see anything, but I think I am just going to get it towed to a garage. Don't really feel like I have the time and energy trying to fix this one... and it's not ideal with it parked on the road!

[oneohtwo 8]

Well this is very odd. Couldn't really see any obvious issues, and when the tow truck arrived to pick the car up it started and ran perfectly. No misfire or lumpyness, and more importantly no fuel spraying out!

I've had it taken to the garage anyway to get checked out, and speaking to the mechanic apparently that does happen with fuel leaks. So we shall see.

[_Matt_ 28]

That is odd! Perhaps it is an O-Ring like you thought that had dried out but now moistened up with fuel. I am only guessing though! Good Luck with the resolution.

[oneohtwo 8]

Yeah, it's what the garage thinks as well. They're not getting any leaks either. He's going to leave it over the weekend and see on Monday, but looks like it might just have resolved itself. 

[oneohtwo 8]

Garage couldn't find anything in the end, so this one goes down as a mystery. Runs all OK again.

[oneohtwo 8]

Nope, this wasn't finished! Started the car at the weekend and thought I'd double check for a fuel leak myself and sure enough it was leaking from the fuel line at the rail connection. With the engine off the leak stopped until I wiggled the pipe and then it'd spray out again. Not entirely sure why this would have happened now, the fuel pipes are only a couple of years old and decent quality Hel items, and the clips used are the ones that came with the pipes. Anyway, I adjusted the clip and retightened, so that is that one solved.

[Cressa 44]

Well done in finally  sorting it 👍🤞

[oneohtwo 8]

Still getting some gremlins on the car. Getting a very slow start from cold, usually needs a couple of turns of the key, with a lot of turning over.  Once it starts it's very very sluggish before finally firing properly.  Also seem to still have an on/off minor fuel leak somewhere.  Noticed a couple of drops on the road but this seems to stop again.

First port of call is the fuel pump I think? not especially looking forward to trying to sort a replacement. I think I may look at the cam sensor and FPR after.

Still need to replace the sunroof motor, which I have had sitting around for a year. Seem to have less time to do car jobs at the moment which is a bit of a shame. 

[Dox 23]

If you have vcds you can view the temp sensor readings.

[_Matt_ 28]

Re the fuel leak - is it engine bay or at the rear? I'd be tempted to replace the fuel lines just incase they have perished. Even newer fuel line that is supposed to be compatible with newer fuel can perish quickly. I bought some Mocol fuel line assuming it was a good brand / not a "chinese knock off". All good so far.  

https://mattlewisracing.co.uk/products/mocal-6mm-r9-rubber-high-pressure-e10-petrol-diesel-ethanol-hose?srsltid=AfmBOoqR_xM2dnIdj8QxceVU-NYlxEbDApslCHtix1P9VJYGKZ1y7nl7

Slow starting I have only experienced when warm and that was the FPR for me but start with Dox's suggestion on monitoring temps when starting as first port of call.

FPR if you need it:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332308717053

 

 

[oneohtwo 8]

I'm slightly unsure where it's coming from, I've run the engine again and can't trace it. It's definitely towards the front of the car and I think it is the fuel lines under the car.  There seemed a bit of fuel residue on the chassis near where the fuel lines run into the chassis before the engine bay, so will investigate a bit more around there. Not sure if there is a join there, but those lines are a lot older.  The new fuel lines all look dry now.

What's the connection with monitoring the temps when starting?

[_Matt_ 28]

The engine bay rubber fuel lines connect to the hard line fuel lines that run through the chassis below the brake booster cylinder. Perhaps there is a problem there and fuel is making it's exist via the chassis rail holes the hard lines run through. It is unlikely the hard lines themselves have failed.

Re the Coolant temps - if the reading is way off the car won't fuel right for a cold start (i.e. it may think the engine is warm) so is more difficult to start when cold.

 

 

[oneohtwo 8]

Ah, gotcha.  That makes sense.

So there's no joint in the hard line by the chassis rail? I guess, as you say then, it can only be from the where the rubber hoses connect. Will have another look around there.

I suppose the slow start from cold could also be due to a leak especially if it's small. The pressure in the hose will drop over time, and air will get in. Then the pump has to overcome the pressure difference and force the air out before fuel starts getting to the injectors. Once it's running it can probably maintain it a bit. Pump might actually be fine.  I'll tighten up all the hoses again and see if that makes a difference.

[oneohtwo 8]

Had a frustrating day with it last Weds. Finally got around replacing the sunroof motor I bought last year, and decided to investigate the clunking noise when the sunroof opens.

Found the source of the clunk but in fiddling about in the to see what had made it start clunking I managed to break off the lug on the sliding mechanism that the spring catch clamps onto.  Was very dumb as all I needed to do to fix it was replace the rubber O-ring on the spring catch so it would sit a bit lower when it engages with the slider.

To cap it all I found the (expensive from classic parts) motor I bought last year was completely the wrong part. I didn't realise there are two part numbers.  Really should have checked what was in the car before buying. So now I am lumped with a motor I can't use, and can't really return as it's been a year.

[_Matt_ 28]

I too have just had a fuel leak, haven't turned the car on since a couple of weeks before my hols, so now sat for 6 weeks. I went around the village and could smell fuel.

I realise the the clips for the fuel hose aren't the oem ones that move with heat cycles so will change those as first port of call. 

Those lines are new in the last year.

 

[blue95 0]

jubilee style clips don't supply a consistent tension, can distort if over-tightened and damage the hose. Use OEM style clamps or proper injection hose clamps

 

Edited September 15 by blue95

[Wild-Animal 0]

yep, as CF Nutter says - You need to use 360 degree fuel clamp. Jubiless are not allowed in motorsport for fuel systems, It will be the same for automotive.

[_Matt_ 28]

Oui, I have made the changes now. I knew they were wrong but left them, I was just sharing for oneohtwo as he had a leak after not using for while and wanted to highlight what can happen if you leave it a while with that type of clamp.

[oneohtwo 8]

Ah thanks.  I used the clamps that came with the HEL fuel lines they sent so assumed they were suitable, but having checked again they are just worm drive type clamps with an aluminium capping piece. I did notice that when I found the leak and retightened they did seem a bit loose. I will swap them out.

The only nice thing is they finish off the braided hose quite nicely and stop any fraying.