g60 performance mods :)

[iain stevenson 0]

hiya,

 

right im not 100% on what parts to go for. I am thinking about cams for my g60 i have been looking about and i don't have a scooby about them whats the best ones to go for.

 

I was thinking about getting a manifold for it as well i was going to get the super sprint one but then i seen a raceland one and its like half the price is there a reason for this? Any help would be great.

 

Thanks,

Iain

 

PS- Is there any other mods that i should really be doing?

[JMC 0]

There's a lot out there you can do, and without wanting to sound like a Mod "the search is your friend".

 

In the mean time.... Cams. I had a Piper 285 on mine and I've got a Shrick 268/276 assymetric on there now. Is it any better, well the juries out. There's a lot of fans of the Shrick but I found the Piper to ne fine as well. You'll only really see big benefit from a cam though if you get head work done. The heads a very restrictive on the G60's.

 

Manifolds - be wary of most as they have been designed for left handdrive, and will tend to burn though your drivers side (steering or CV - can't remember) boot. G-werks ones are very good (and right hand drive specific) but they are expensive and they only make them occasionally. Getting a flowed standard exhaust manifold is cheaper and less hassle although you wont see as big a benefit.

 

If you've not done any mods on it I would recommend the following (in this order)...

 

68mm pulley and stage 4 the charger.

Front mount intercooler.

Oil cooler.

Port and polish head and cam (add red top injectors).

4 branch manifold.

Flow the throttle body.

1.9l rebuild with forged pistons.

 

After each stage you'd need a remap as well. G-werks have plenty of off the shelf maps available which will cover pretty much every setup possible.

 

Don't bother with a toothed belt unless you fancy carrying 4 spares with you. You may fancy usign a 65mm pulley, but not much point unless you flow the head as you can quickly get to the point where you exceed the MAP sensor pressure rating (1 bar on the G60's).

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

now thats a reply!

[JMC 0]

now thats a reply!

 

I was feeling charitable, lol.

[JMC 0]

Oh, and forgot to add, as soon as you start bigger engine mods you'll need to think about brakes upgrades, gearbox upgrades (limited slip diff, and VR6 1st and 2nd), suspension changes, ARB's, weight saving (carbon fibre bonnet) etc etc. All of these will have as much impact on driving enjoyment as a bit more power....

[iain stevenson 0]

Thanks very much mate, I will start saving right now :)

[16VG60 1]

Best you do Iain, this tuning thing is a disease that stays with you for life, the satisfaction earnt from each phase lasts right up until you realise " it could be just a little faster" or " I could make it a little more lighter" I was diagnosed a terminal case years ago, my wife has tried to exorcise the deamon with little impact! The only advice I can give you is be honest about what you really want to achieve, do your research well, and spend your money wisely. Good luck cos it is all worth the effort, well tuned Raddos are a blast!!

[JMC 0]

You're welcome, and Johns speaks some wise words there. The pursuit of power and lightness can quickly become an obsession. While the G can be tuned quite a long way, it becomes expensive quickly after you've done the simple pulley and chip options. If you're after big numbers (>250bhp) then best to think of a 1.8 20V Turbo conversion as firstly it will get you there quickly and secondly will be cheaper.

[G-Lad 0]

I spotted this while on the old knowledge base earlier :)

 

http://wiki.the-corrado.net/g60_tuning_guide.html

[Jim 2]

My old G60 had a 68mm pulley, SNS chip, and a Golf G60 front mount intercooler. Those mods alone gave it a consistent 207BHP and it really drove very well indeed.

 

IMHO chip / pulley and a charger rebuild (for peace of mind) really should be the first port of call for any G60 owner looking for more power!

[iain stevenson 0]

hiya guys,

Yeh you are right the tuning bug does just hit you and never really goes away lol. cse my corrado was my dads for years and years, he says he got to old for the coilovers that i put on lol :) so i bought it off him cse i always wanted it from a young age.

 

It has already got a stage 4 rebuild on the charger full 2.5" exhaust and coilies oh and i done the boost return delete with the twin fillter kit. i have got a 68mm pulley coming soon and a 4 branch manifold.

 

i wouldnt like to swap the engine out tbh cse g60s are getting quite thin on the ground as it is and the 1.8t doesnt have the amazing sound like the g60,

in sayin that tho would mined one of they bbm charger lol.

[JMC 0]

Good to see someone wanting to keep these running - they do have such a distinct sound and character. With it having the boost return delete done, make sure you lubricate the charger occasionally (Gwerks used to sell some PTFE spray specifically fo this).

[iain stevenson 0]

yeh ive got sum ptfe spray :)

 

 

 

thanks for all the replys.

[bristolbaron 10]

There's a lot out there you can do, and without wanting to sound like a Mod "the search is your friend".

 

In the mean time.... Cams. I had a Piper 285 on mine and I've got a Shrick 268/276 assymetric on there now. Is it any better, well the juries out. There's a lot of fans of the Shrick but I found the Piper to ne fine as well. You'll only really see big benefit from a cam though if you get head work done. The heads a very restrictive on the G60's.

 

Manifolds - be wary of most as they have been designed for left handdrive, and will tend to burn though your drivers side (steering or CV - can't remember) boot. G-werks ones are very good (and right hand drive specific) but they are expensive and they only make them occasionally. Getting a flowed standard exhaust manifold is cheaper and less hassle although you wont see as big a benefit.

 

If you've not done any mods on it I would recommend the following (in this order)...

 

68mm pulley and stage 4 the charger.

Front mount intercooler.

Oil cooler.

Port and polish head and cam (add red top injectors).

4 branch manifold.

Flow the throttle body.

1.9l rebuild with forged pistons.

 

After each stage you'd need a remap as well. G-werks have plenty of off the shelf maps available which will cover pretty much every setup possible.

 

Don't bother with a toothed belt unless you fancy carrying 4 spares with you. You may fancy usign a 65mm pulley, but not much point unless you flow the head as you can quickly get to the point where you exceed the MAP sensor pressure rating (1 bar on the G60's).

 

read this again. it says everything i was going to.

for remaps i'd be tempted to look at dg autotech.. their fully custom map is upgradable along the way and looks to be producing good results.

[Yandards 0]

I will add that considering the age and mileage of most G60 blocks there is too much variation in output from each engine to enable a 'off the shelf' map to work effectively. You really need a custom MAP for your car and as BB mentioned above I would recommend DG autotech for this purpose.

 

You can always consider a charger cooling solution instead of an FMIC, less prone to heatsoak, easier to have shorter boost tubing runs and less restriction on the boost system.

 

The standard injectors are also good for some much higher numbers than most folks run, although once again getting the current injectors cleaned and balanced will improve overall running and performance.

 

Another vote for don't go down the toothed belt route, there is some circumstantial evidence that when they spit teeth or come off the shock loading can wipe out your charger. If you do go for a smaller pulley then a new set of idler wheels and a damper is a good idea.

[iain stevenson 0]

yeh ive heard about the toothed belt problems so i will defos stay clear ov that. erm yeh i want going to get an off the shelf map cse tbh i dont trust them.

 

where abouts is dg autotech do u know eny good places in scotland i could get my car mapped if dg is in england.

[Yandards 0]

DG are in the middle of England around the Kidderminster area of the Midlands.

 

I don't know of any mapping companies in Scotland, the problem you will find with most companies is that they won't have the kit to do mapping for a car as old as the G60 or the knowledge of the MAP code to enable them to adjust it.

[iain stevenson 0]

well thats not to bad. i was expecting us to day down near london but middle england sound good to me. will my car be ok driving down there with all the mods on it and poss over fueling etc?.

[Guest]

I'm happy to exchange notes. I've only picked up a G60 and have picked out some initial parts based on research and my own experiences. I'm not chasing a big number in terms of BHP but so long as when I drive the car it feels right and makes me smile :grin:

 

My charger was new not so long ago so my focus is on chip, 68mm pulley, schrick cam and followers, fuel rail, injectors, manifold, exhaust system and some little tweaks around the charger. Bar-tek and bahn brenner are the main source.

I'm also overhauling my stopping power and will see how the suspension pans out after I gain a better feel of the car after the upgrades.

 

Whatever I find I'll add to my thread.

 

Thread is here: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=99891

[Yandards 0]

well thats not to bad. i was expecting us to day down near london but middle england sound good to me. will my car be ok driving down there with all the mods on it and poss over fueling etc?.

 

The lambda once the car is warmed up will keep the fueling roughly where it needs to be and prevent major engine damage, however the lambda does not provide infomation to the ECU when you are on the WOT (wide open throttle) microswitch.

 

So basically take it easy on the way down and keep it off full throttle and you will be fine. I know my G60 was much improved post mapping session with DG, the series of mods on the boost side of the charger had really messed up the full throttle look up table in the ECU so it just bogged down at WOT.

 

As for journey time it take me around around 3 hours to get to the Glasgow area, an hour to the border and then another 3 hours should see you arriving at DG. The mapping session will take a few hours to do but you are best off speaking directly to DG to arrange that.

[devilmatt 0]

Hi all.

 

Going back to the boost return delete kit, I've been searching on the forum and tinternet in general but cant find much info about them or part numbers.

 

I am interested in deleting the boost return to see what difference it would make. Does anybody still make a kit for this purpose?

 

Also, I saw a post on my searches where somebody metioned a whooshing noise on gear changes. Is it as loud as the dump valves that people like to fit to their escorts, or is it a bit more subtle than that?

[devilmatt 0]

Sorry. My bad. Just found something about it on here. :iamwithstupid:

[iain stevenson 0]

hiya mate erm i asked the same question as u.

 

The noise from the boost return pipe isnt as loud as a dump vaule unless you have ur bonnet open and u give it sum lol.

 

I got my boost return kit from swg moter sport it was £245 for the twin filter kit as for performance wise i havent seen eny grate performance gain but the car seems to pick up much quicker and seems less asmatic at high revs.

 

Hope this helps :)

[devilmatt 0]

I think I've just spent too much on other bits to justify the twin filter kit unfortunately. Plus I have a new K&N replacement panel filter to fit. But I have just ordered a boost return delete kit from ebay to see what its like. The theory behind it makes sense so I'll see if it makes any difference. I've just taken delivery of a de-cat from G-werks too so I've got a couple of noise changes to look forward too. :norty:

[iain stevenson 0]

lol fair enough mate. erm what do u mean that the theory behind it makes no sense, if u mean by getting rid of the boost return pipe,

 

basically it returns hot air back to the supercharger witch the engine hasn't used and hot air and bhp don't mix. so by cutting out the return pipe and venting it to atmosphere you dont have eny hot air going into your charger and your boost temps will be lower. you will see better throttle response and you might notice it being a bit quicker.

 

what kind of exhaust do u have on the car just now.