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Crispy Squirrel

Geting more BHP to a 2.0 16v

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I need advice on getting my car faster. This sounds stupid but some ****ty vauxhall started to pull away from me and it annoyed me alot.

 

So much so i started looking at g60's and VR's... But for now....

 

How can I get more bang for my buck !

 

((Prices ? Links ? and how much it will cost to get fitted are all appreciated!)))

 

Someone mentioned putting a KN to get it up to about 170bhp ? Is that a K & N air filter ? I'm a massive noob so excuse the stupidity!

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Im a noob on very but here are the basics

 

Get it breathing better, fit an air filter either a panel or good quality enclosed set up with cold air feed from the front of the car

 

Look at the throttle body, can the internal castings be cleaned up at all?? Opened out and smoothed out, can this then be port matched to the inlet??

 

The inlet itself, same as above then fit a ptfe inlet gasket, this helps to reduce heat pAss from the head to inlet, the cooler the sir the more dense it is so the bigger the bang

 

Those are the easy ones, then your in to looking at cams and ignition optimisation and after market Ecu or reprogramming the standerd item

 

Also look at the exhausts a good quality free flow exhaust helps to free things up a bit aswell

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Basically the easiest way to gain any power is to drill the air box on the wing side, as you cant fit an induction kit due to the components sitting on top of the air box itself. And then possibly fit KR cams from a 1.8 16v corrado, doing these two mods is about the only easy power gain that you will get from the 2.0 16v. Obviously fitting the cams will cost a few quid if you get a garage to do the work. A pair of KR cams should cost you about £40 to buy, although you only need the cam on the exhaust side I believe? Drilling the air box can be done by yourself with a set of hole saws and will also give your car abit more growl.

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Basically the easiest way to gain any power is to drill the air box on the wing side, as you cant fit an induction kit due to the components sitting on top of the air box itself. And then possibly fit KR cams from a 1.8 16v corrado, doing these two mods is about the only easy power gain that you will get from the 2.0 16v. Obviously fitting the cams will cost a few quid if you get a garage to do the work. A pair of KR cams should cost you about £40 to buy, although you only need the cam on the exhaust side I believe? Drilling the air box can be done by yourself with a set of hole saws and will also give your car abit more growl.

 

Once it has being drilled can you fit a panel filter in the original housing??

 

As these do give a small increase

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Yeah you can fit a panel filter after its been drilled.Its just the same box but with holes in.Wont give much power increase though.Remove the snorkel from the box aswell.I drilled mine ages ago....sounds nice but doesnt really increase power much if any

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Once it has being drilled can you fit a panel filter in the original housing??

 

As these do give a small increase

 

Yes. I have a K&N filter in my 2.0 16v with a drilled airbox, but noticed no increase in performance compared to the standard air filter tbh. But im sure it does help it breath better overall.

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What really makes a difference on the 16v engine are:

Standard wheels and tyres, 15"

Standard exhaust

Gasflowed exhaust manifold or 4 branch all in one manifold and downpipe

Gasflowed cylinder head and lower intake

Higher lift and duration cams

Optimised fuelling and ignition timing, if you can find someone who can still work with this system

DON'T mess with the airbox, it will only lose power

Lightened flywheel will slightly improve acceleration in 1st and 2nd

Aftermarket ecu with electronic injectors will optimise torque

 

But of course a 1.8t conversion would be cheaper and give more power than all of the above, if be a little soulless

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Basically the easiest way to gain any power is to drill the air box on the wing side, as you cant fit an induction kit due to the components sitting on top of the air box itself. And then possibly fit KR cams from a 1.8 16v corrado, doing these two mods is about the only easy power gain that you will get from the 2.0 16v. Obviously fitting the cams will cost a few quid if you get a garage to do the work. A pair of KR cams should cost you about £40 to buy, although you only need the cam on the exhaust side I believe? Drilling the air box can be done by yourself with a set of hole saws and will also give your car abit more growl.

 

Er... drilling the airbox won't do feck all for you except increase induction noise!

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Er... drilling the airbox won't do feck all for you except increase induction noise!

 

Sure about that?

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I'm fairly sure? Surely if anything it'll disrupt the airflow as it's not working in the way it was designed to work? I'm willing to be proven wrong but will be astonished if anyone can prove that it offers any improvement at all.

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I'm fairly sure? Surely if anything it'll disrupt the airflow as it's not working in the way it was designed to work? I'm willing to be proven wrong but will be astonished if anyone can prove that it offers any improvement at all.

 

I concur with Jim,there's a thread on here somewhere that dispels all the myths,a K&N was found to give no more power then a stock filter on a 16v engine !

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Sure about that?

 

I'm fairly sure? Surely if anything it'll disrupt the airflow as it's not working in the way it was designed to work? I'm willing to be proven wrong but will be astonished if anyone can prove that it offers any improvement at all.

 

Gains will be very maginal but noise will increase. You would probably get the same with just a decent panel filter and not have the aggrevation of turning your airbox into swiss cheese.

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Its hardly aggrevation to drill a few holes.Took me no time at all and who doesnt like induction noise?Take the snorkel out and stick a cold air feed to it aswell from the front of the engine.Bobs ya fathers brother.Doesnt give a great deal of power increase if any,but every little helps and if hes gonna combine it with other mods then itl all add up.And sounds great aswell.Dont drill too many holes at first and see how the sound is before you go mad with the drill lol

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If you actually want best bang for your buck, selling and buying a V or a G is best!

 

yea I got a new job and have spent all day researching VR's and G60's. I'm still unsure on what one i'd rather have... ... I understand this argument is a bitch on here but

 

i'm favouring towards a g60 as I assume the fuel emissions are lower + Insurance cheaper + no electrical problems ???

 

---------- Post added at 10:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:56 PM ----------

 

So i'm not going to drill anything.

 

How much to buy and get fit the gasflow & kr cam ? ? Predictions ??

 

Is the rolling road tune that recomended worth doing too ? Stealth racing ?

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Standard paper filter has been proved best in these tests on every car forum I've ever been on with various models being tested. So long as their changed every couple of thousand miles so they offer the best flow, used with standard airboxes they come out on top every time.

 

Squirrel, you may as well change the cambelt and tensioner if you changing cams, so will probably cost in the region of £300 all in if you supply the cams for the garage to do it all. (Bear in mind the cambelt kit, rocker gasket etc..)

Gas flowing will be much more than that from a specialist, you mention stealth so have a look on their website. I think they list specific stages and rough prices for that sort of work. (It may be TSR but I cant remember, check both.) You'd be better off sourcing a lump from a car thats being broken with all of it done already. You can probably get one with all this for about £100! And I think its very much worth an RR tune once its all done. Stealth/TSR know the specifics of this engine, and know how to get the best out of it. Some back street garage will set it up roughly by the book, probably based on how it sounds in the workshop! Getting it rolling and having a dynamic readout of what the engine is doing is second to none in terms of tuning. :D

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What really makes a difference on the 16v engine

 

 

Optimised fuelling and ignition timing, if you can find someone who can still work with this system

 

But of course a 1.8t conversion would be cheaper and give more power than all of the above, if be a little soulless

 

Is there anyone known for being good with this?

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Drilling the airbox will not give you more power. It will only give you an induction roar. If it did then every F1 car, Rally Car would have a drilled airbox and racing teams would not spend a fortune fine tuning their intake systems.

 

The only way of getting more power from a normally aspirated induction system is to force as much cold air as possible into it. You do this by having ducting that takes air from outside the engine compartment and feeding it into a closed induction system to create positive pressure. Cooler air is more dense that hot air. Therefore as the air is denser you can add more petrol to get increased power. To make it work effectively you have to have massive ducting and the car has to be moving into the air stream. The gains from the sort of normal DIY kits you buy are minimal. Modern induction systems are already pretty efficient, and big gains only happen when you are modifying older restrictive induction systems.

 

When you turbo/super charge an engine you are doing exactly the same thing only taking it to the next level. The turbo forces in more air into the combustion chamber than would otherwise be sucked in under normal atmospheric pressure, And the intercooler cools this compressed air before it goes into the combustion chamber.

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Is there anyone known for being good with this?

Thought TSR were good with K-jet systems?obviously its a dying art now cause its so old. only if you deal with these systems on large scale would you make a profit which sad to say because nobody really does.Good old system,but not very tuneable

 

How much you want to spend=how much more bhp or torque you get.You can do lots,but cost is everything.headwork like Porting and three angle valve job increase flow,cams to match,ITBs with electronic injectors and full ecu controlled ignition system. by then your in the thousands so do what i did and weigh the options of 1.8t against stretching tuneablity of a N/A engine.16vs are good,just depends on the money u want to spend.why spend 2000 on a engine to get it to 180 bhp when u can get one that has 180 bhp standard and lots of scope for future upgrades.

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Yeah as mentioned, stealth, TSR, or Awsome GTI have all had past experience doing it. Doesn't mean any of them are still experts in this art form though!

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Here in Denmark, there is one specialist who raced 16v KR engines years ago. He knows exactly what to do with a KR cylinderhead and cams. There are some people who claim that they can port, but in fact the dyno shows little or a worse condition. Head gives 8-10 Hp and cams 10-12Hp on a 2L block. The casting on the KR head is better and more well suited for tuning than later heads. Then exhaust made by hand and optimised ignition setting. Should see you 165-170Hp or around that.I have a trustable dyno on that from years ago. That engine was fast in a golf, and it needed a dent in the hood to be there ;) It's still a peaky motor, and need revs to perform. Loose that 150 kilo steroe, and you are wel off. 15" wheels with no more than 195/50-15 is well suited.

Get lighter camfollowers and springs etc. Titanium is okay here.

A stiffer engine mount will prevent the engine lifting too much at start, and therefore prevent a bit wheelspin.

A tad thinner oil may give a bit too. Gearbox oil swap too for the sake of it.

The fat inlet manifold from the KR engine may also give a few ponies, when ported finely together with the gaskets. I did and it worked just fine.

Sod the electric Recaro leather seats and add only two carbon Recaro or sparco front seats. Bin the interrior and the sparewheel etc.

Improve your gearshift, or, and you'll need an extra box for this, learn to shift upwards with out clutch. Saves you few meters every time you shift up ;)

Get a better diff.

Overly wide tires kills your acceleration. So does big wheels. Many are heavy, so get forged lightweight wheels. And light tires. Or Toyo R888, but prepare to put money aside ;) And no rain fun.

 

Often it's only when you combine different tuning, that the power comes. Just sticking a K&N or similar to the engine, most often lowers the Hp. It's been seen on many dyno's. And oiling that filter kille or unsettles the air mass measureing. Not a good soloution.

Btw, I threw my K&N panel filter away and run a standard paperfilter. That is also when the dyno showed the 177 hp's.

 

There is a reason that Michael, Manfred and others use this engine for German Bergrennen. Look at youtube:

 

I seriously doubt many can follow that ;)

 

 

 

and more.

If not inspired, then chose a G. Drives better with better balance. Mine is a 1991 and have the "P" head and the matching inlet manifold and exhaust manifold, and have 177 Hp completely standard. That was a very conservative measureing the guy told me, and he does not do anything else for more than 25 years, and really many VW cars including many G-engines.

So why take anoseheavy v6? Nah. Much more to be gathered without making violence to the g-lader. I will make these mods over time. And I DON'T want my engine to explode. Of fourse, there's no guarantee ;)

Each to his own of course.

Cheers,

Redfox.

Edited by Redfox

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