quicky1980 0 Posted April 9, 2014 I plan to put my battery into the boot. I know I need to run a decent gauge cable from the boot to the front but Im unsure how to best do the circuit breaker ie fuse size and type etc. Plus I would like to have a positive terminal in the engine bay just incase I need to jump start from the engine bay end yet I dont know which bits work/look best so suggestions please. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MarkFoster 0 Posted April 9, 2014 Haven't actually done this myself, but was told by a man who should know, that when relocating the battery it's best to use the starter motor as your positive connection under the bonnet. M. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lilfuzzer 1 Posted April 9, 2014 BMW battery cable used on mine perfect length and there is a terminal box that fits into the engine bay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lilfuzzer 1 Posted April 9, 2014 I also have a big fuse just after the battery connection. I can get some pics once my car is back oh and BMW e36 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted April 9, 2014 There are some pics in my thread, I'm on my tablet so it's not so easy to link them to this thread! Look about 10 pages in I think from memory! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 10, 2014 MK5 R32s also have rear mounted batteries for cable, battery box, terminals and fuse options. Starter motor terminal is a good shout for jump starting, but not easy to get to. Again, BMW or VW do jump start terminals that can be bolted to the chassis strut or somewhere else convenient. Remember to use a very sturdy grommet or a compression gland where the wire passes through the bulkhead, and it's probably safer to fuse both ends of it as well, and needs to be a rating that won't blow when the starter motor draws current. Think I used a 125A fuse either side of the bulkhead. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted April 10, 2014 Thanks guys! Will look at the bmw and golf terminals but after the suggestion of using the starter terminal I think this will be neater and I hope not to have to jump start often (if at all) I was really unsure about the fuse rating, bu I will start with 125A as you used Kev. Out of interest what design of fude did you use? I've seen a few audio fuses go to high ampage but not sure if these are suitable for a starter/crank cable. I'll vent the battery to the atmosphere outside of the cabin/boot, this should be fine right? No need for a special battery is there? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted April 10, 2014 I've got a 250 amp fuse as that is what came out of the BMW donor. Plenty of them in scrappies for spares too :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sexybourbon 0 Posted April 10, 2014 Is there any other advantages apart from saving space in the bay ? Or is that the only reason you would do it , i know they weigh a bit but not enough to make a difference to the feeling of the front end ?? I assume Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted April 10, 2014 I wanted more space in the bay for simpler maintenance in the future and to help with airflow for cooling. The gap between the radiator and the front of the 24v block is smaller than that of having the 12v block in its place, so extra space for airflow can't be a bad thing. Each to their own though :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted April 10, 2014 I wanted more space in the bay for simpler maintenance in the future and to help with airflow for cooling. The gap between the radiator and the front of the 24v block is smaller than that of having the 12v block in its place, so extra space for airflow can't be a bad thing. Each to their own though :) I am looking into this too Sean Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted April 10, 2014 It's quite simple to do James. The hardest part is probably the battery tray in the boot and making it look like it is supposed to be there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted April 10, 2014 It's quite simple to do James. The hardest part is probably the battery tray in the boot and making it look like it is supposed to be there. Being handy with a welder help's (I have some skill's in that dept) and have a couple of mate's who have done it before. Reason for mine is I noticed when going to national day last year on the M6 got caught in some traffic and it was a hot day I thought the car was going to give up but managed to get off at I think it was Charnock to let it cool so due to this I'm trying to get the engine bay temp's down and re-configure the induction that was there which to be honest was crap. It's aftermarket management so there is plenty of scope.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted April 10, 2014 If you can get the air intake away from behind the radiator and maybe get the air in from behind the headlights, that could help? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted April 10, 2014 If you can get the air intake away from behind the radiator and maybe get the air in from behind the headlights, that could help? I want super amount's of air for the R32 mate I know myself the improvement's that can be gained the Cossie loved the winter temp's Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted April 10, 2014 Are you will get to replace the fogs with those ducts you can get? That could get you more air. Or maybe fitting sprinter vents to one of the wings? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted April 10, 2014 Are you will get to replace the fogs with those ducts you can get? That could get you more air. Or maybe fitting sprinter vents to one of the wings? That would upset the OEM chap's mate but would save me money on cracked/broken fog's Vent's mate I would be treated like I had the plague plus they look P888. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted April 11, 2014 I'm all for oem myself but if you can justify to me that you get some actual real benefits from doing something, then I'm usually accepting :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lilfuzzer 1 Posted April 11, 2014 Mk4 battery tray saves any welding. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lilfuzzer 1 Posted April 11, 2014 Was a necessity for me as needed the room for the delay Intake elbow Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted April 11, 2014 Have you got any pictures lilfuzzer? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lilfuzzer 1 Posted April 11, 2014 Yeah I will have bud I'll try and find some tonight. My car isnt with me at the mo otherwise I could have got some upto date ones Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 11, 2014 I was really unsure about the fuse rating, bu I will start with 125A as you used Kev. Out of interest what design of fude did you use? I've seen a few audio fuses go to high ampage but not sure if these are suitable for a starter/crank cable. I'll vent the battery to the atmosphere outside of the cabin/boot, this should be fine right? No need for a special battery is there? It was an Audio one mate. In hindsight I wasn't a fan of that stuff. If I did it again I'd use OEM cables, fuses and terminals etc. I never blew a 125A fuse, so that ought to be enough. I was just concerned that using a really high rating fuse wouldn't blow fast enough in the event of a short. Yeah just run a little tube out to atmosphere and the air flow under the car will draw any fumes away. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lilfuzzer 1 Posted April 12, 2014 there you go sean these were taken when it first went in Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 22 Posted April 12, 2014 Ive got a complete tray, cover and fusebox from s 1.8t petrol car if you decide to go ahead this this. Tdi trsys and covers are bigger if you want a bigger battery Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
