Spal fan wiring and constant full speed dash switch

[sexybourbon 0]

Sorry if this has been asked over and over but it may be helpfull to some of the people who recently bought the slim line fan brackets of chrisl and who will be using spal fans

 

Basically im rubbish with wiring but have come up with this little basic drawing of how i think i can wire in the fans using all three speeds and keeping the after run

[ATTACH]81098[/ATTACH]

 

Then to confirm after looking through google for a few days and working out how to do this the best way i found another basic drawing confirming that what i had come up with was going to be ok ! I think

[ATTACH]81099[/ATTACH]

 

What i want to know now is how i would wire and where in to the loom iv drawn to have a constant override switch in the car (dash) so that if im going to be pasting the car i can flick the switch on or if im stuck in heavy traffic i can controll them manually

 

Im going to get some beefy connections and proper plugs gor the fans and im going to use 27amp wire as halfords sell it and i happen to be working on one this week so its easy to get , i know most people use or used 20amp wire , i assume that 27 will be ok and will carry the current fine anyway

[fla 9]

I thought the different fan speeds in the standard fans were in a setup in the base of the fans and the outputs on the loom were all 12v? If not I'd be keen to see the required resistances. Mine just come on at full speed.

[sexybourbon 0]

I could be wrong fla but I think it's the times they come on and not the speeds ie speed one would come on at about 85-95 or so and then the ecu will switch it to speed two wich comes on at slightly higher temps , then it would change again to speed 3 wich kicks in about 115 or so and finally the after run kicks in when the car is turned off

The temps for what speed the fans kicks in is in the definitive cooling guide

 

I've been talking to vag hag about all this as this is how he has done his and his all works like factory

Are you using one fan or two as I know both of us are running two fans on the rad

 

Anyone else know how to wire in a constant on switch to the dash for heavy traffic or track use

[sexybourbon 0]

And yea fla I think they are all 12v

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I just put a switch across the black temp sender on my dash. Full speed on demand and it drops the idling temps right down pretty damn sharpish! Only drawback is the mahoosive current draw when it kicks in, so the engine will stammer for a second or two.

[sexybourbon 0]

Cheers kev Excuse me being so dim but wires are not my strong point at all

 

I assume that just an inline switch on the black temp sensor wire would not activate the fans without live running down to it so would i also need to run a live from the battery or somewhere else ?

 

Like a say though wires arent my bag so just shooting in the dark really

[fla 9]

I could be wrong fla but I think it's the times they come on and not the speeds ie speed one would come on at about 85-95 or so and then the ecu will switch it to speed two wich comes on at slightly higher temps , then it would change again to speed 3 wich kicks in about 115 or so and finally the after run kicks in when the car is turned off

The temps for what speed the fans kicks in is in the definitive cooling guide

 

I've been talking to vag hag about all this as this is how he has done his and his all works like factory

Are you using one fan or two as I know both of us are running two fans on the rad

 

Anyone else know how to wire in a constant on switch to the dash for heavy traffic or track use

 

Ah, ok, i thought there were different speeds of operation in the original setup.

 

Yes, i've got two, both of which i've wired in to speed 1 with a bridge to speed 2 in case the low temp one fails. Perhaps worth separating and wiring as you've got. How would this be adjusted for aircon though?

[sexybourbon 0]

Ah, ok, i thought there were different speeds of operation in the original setup.

 

Yes, i've got two, both of which i've wired in to speed 1 with a bridge to speed 2 in case the low temp one fails. Perhaps worth separating and wiring as you've got. How would this be adjusted for aircon though?

 

Ok as far as im aware there was three different speeds that operated in the origional fan unit , they was controlled by how much current was let in to the fans but on our new spal fans they dont have any kind of set up they are either on or off , so as far as im aware and understand the three lives dont control fan "speed" any more as there is only one speed that the spal can run on , either nothing or full blast ! But the three lives would still control when the fans operated depending on how hot the car gets

 

I really wished i understood electrics more but they just dont seem to sink in no matter how much i read haha !! I think a college night course would be a help lol

[swiftkid 1]

I've had a brief look at the wiring over dinner and seems the fan speed is operated within the fan unit itself, the diagram shows you have 2 resistors inside and so speed 1 goes past both resistors, speed 2 goes past 1 resistor and speed 3 is direct 12v connection. So to get 3 speeds you would just need to add the right resistor into each wire and hey ho presto... 3 speed again

[fla 9]

Great Swift. You didnt by any chance note the resistances? I imagine these would been to be ceramic with heat sinks? perhaps useful to keep them in line with the fan air flow to keep them cool, a bit like the cabin fan resistors

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

You can by aftermarket fan controllers that can be adjusted to maintain a certain temperature.

 

I've got all 3 feeds wired into one which is in turn wired into the positive feed of the fan. The kenlowe fans are quiet and the max draw is 7 amps. Unless the window is open or the radio is turned down, I never know it's on. My only cure is that the temp sits at 92c instead of the usual low 80s.

 

Id suggest replacing the yellow switch as that supplies the dash gauge it's temperature and if it's on its way out, you'll get a strange reading which could fool you into there being a problem when there isn't one.

[sexybourbon 0]

Sean im gonna do what you have done , but im running two fans so will split it in to two looms one for each fan

 

I dont think it would help by trying to change the speeds the fams run at i would rather have them running full power all the time so they do a better job of cooling the car

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

They are very effective, a minute or 2 is all you need to get the temp right back down. I think the single 11 flows about 1800 cubic feet a minute where as the standard 2 fans do 1100 I think so hugely more effective. I also think the standard fans could pull 30 odd amps on start where these are 7 or so, much less strain on the electrics!

[sexybourbon 0]

So with two fans there should be a hell of a difference if one spal cal pill that amount

 

I made my loom last night it took me a while but its pretty neat ,ill post pics as i took a few for anyone else that struggles with wiring , it took me ages to get my head round it and trying to find any pics of how other people have done it step by step is pretty hard other than the ones vag hag sent across only hes loom was already heat shrinked up

[VAG-hag 0]

I'm a fan of your fan loom red bourbon

[sexybourbon 0]

Im pleased with it , and i should be its taken me a week to sort out haha

[sexybourbon 0]

Ok so heres some pics of how i made my loom

Ill try explain it as i post them for anyone as useless as i am

 

I used 20amp cable and piggy back spade connectors ( there like a normal female spade with a male curled over the top so you can make two connections in one go !!)

 

Started by cutting six equal lengths of cable 400mm long

And connecting them in to twos like this

[ATTACH]81135[/ATTACH]

 

Then i shrink wrapped them together so the was all neat like this

[ATTACH]81136[/ATTACH]

 

And these are the piggyback spades after they was all wrapped and heat shrinked

[ATTACH]81137[/ATTACH]

 

Then cut two of the wires a bit shorter and then another two a bit shorter than the last so they was staggered ! I then marked them and cut the sleve off so they could be soldered

You can see where iv already done two connections and where the other two are ready for soldering

[ATTACH]81138[/ATTACH]

 

I made sure that i heat shrank every joint i made so its really waterproof

Thats the lives done so that each each one works as it should when the ecu kicks them in like it should and there is two lives there one for each fan if your running two

Next you need the two negetives for both fans so just ad another piggy back connector and you have your two wires for both negatives on the two fans

[ATTACH]81139[/ATTACH]

Thats was added to the loom and the wrapped up in proper loom tape for exta protection against the elements

It should look something like this when finished

[ATTACH]81140[/ATTACH]

One connection for each live on the fans and one neg for each fan

Note i marked the end of the negative with a black marker so i knew which was live and what was negative because once its taped up you cant tell

[ATTACH]81141[/ATTACH]

 

Its probably a bit long winded that and a little over the top but i thought id share just incase anyone struggles in the future and needs spals as lets face it your origionals arent going to last for ever haha

[unclean 10]

Thanks for this.

 

Sean, could you provide some more detail on what controller you're using and how's it's integrated?

 

Cheers, Phil.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Excellent, thanks for that, got to do mine at some point.

[sexybourbon 0]

No worries glad its helped someone out and hopefully will a few more too

[swiftkid 1]

You remember where you bought fans from yet?

[Sean_Jaymo 0]

Thanks for this.

 

Sean, could you provide some more detail on what controller you're using and how's it's integrated?

 

Cheers, Phil.

 

I'm not sure if this was targeted at me or not? Either way, I'm still running the standard controller but for those who don't want to use it or it's broken or removed for some other reason, you can get controllers which sit in the coolant pipe work or screw into the radiator switch position.

 

Swifty, I got my fan from Burton power. They are a Ford specialist but were the cheapest.

[VAG-hag 0]

You remember where you bought fans from yet?

 

http://www.serckservicesmotorsport.co.uk

[sexybourbon 0]

http://www.serckservicesmotorsport.co.uk

 

Cheers mate , dave i apologise for being so useless bud

[unclean 10]

I'm not sure if this was targeted at me or not? Either way, I'm still running the standard controller but for those who don't want to use it or it's broken or removed for some other reason, you can get controllers which sit in the coolant pipe work or screw into the radiator switch position.

 

Swifty, I got my fan from Burton power. They are a Ford specialist but were the cheapest.

 

Yep, it was. Thanks! Gotcha, something in my system is acting up and was considering replacing the controller with a standard one, or possibly aftermarket. After a little reading I think I'll retain the factory for the stages and over run.