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Wood burners , advice please

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Basically we have an old multifuel burner for the new house , im currently laying the hearth and sorting the surround out and brick work

 

Iv been in touch with a guy who will be fitting the burner reg plate and chimney blank

 

Now here is where my problem lies , he has said that there should be a plate on the burner somewhere ith the model number and power out pit but i have chacked amd there is nothing and he is saying that without it he might not be able to sign it off with hetas !!

 

Is any of you knowledgable enough to advise me on how to go about this as we really like the burmer and want to use it

 

We have some pics if its of any help and even finding out who makes or made it wpuld be a help as we might be able to get in touch with them to find out what model it is

 

Thanks in advance

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I fitted my own multi fuel burner, lined the chimney with stainless steel liner etc. Not any help but mine has been fine for the last 7 or 8 years.

One man who might be with a PM is Jamiehamy as I know he has one and knowing him, he will have read all there is to know about the outputs etc......I remember him tutting about me having the door open on mine as I wasn't getting the max efficiency out of it:lol: ......but I like to watch it :lol:

 

You are as well to fire(no pun) up a picture as someone may recognise it :)

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We've just fitted one at ours and the plate with all the info was just screwed to the back of the stove.

 

Throw up some pics, if someone recognises it and you can find the manufacturer you can probably get the specs straight from them.

 

If it's over 5kw output you'll need an secondary air source (air brick below or behind it is probably best, depends on the layout of your house)

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[ATTACH]82745[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]82746[/ATTACH]

 

Here is a few pics of the burner

Not sure how to go about finding the power as it states that depending on the fuel your using depends on the heat generated !!

So you could have a 5kw fire but only burn 2kw if you did t over load it

 

There is no plate screwed to it mic so im struggling at the moment

 

Easypops i know jaimy so will give him a shout

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Charming little bleeder hey.

Well first off I don't think he's being especially jobsworth, quite diligent really. If there's no substitute but to use it then it's always going to be a blag, and whether he's willing to work with it.

I'd be tempted to find an identically sized/flued burner online and extract the info from it. That way you could accurately determine input, ventilation requirements etc. Of course the flue flow/spillage tests would have to be bob-on.

You could even get a data plate from ebay and draw it up. Oh and input/combustion tests are always made in 'worst case scenario' so if it states the upper limit you just use that.

 

I am a gas safe engineer but not hetas so he holds the cards NOT ME!

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Forgive me if I'm missing the obvious. That looks like a solid fuel 'log burner'. (From the photos)

Does it have gas or oil feed pipes?

If it's a solid fuel burner then it may well not have any Identification plate on it as it will just need to seal well and be fitted with a good flue. Then a smoke test carried out.

Edited by Rich the Chef

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I probably should add I've had a free standing gas burner that did have its Id plate and currently we have a clear view solid fuel burner. That only has serial numbers. My friends solid fuel burner however looks a lot like yours and is about 80 years old so has no id but was rebuilt with new fire bricks etc 25 years ago.

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That looks like a Yeoman as I have an EXE which has similar tudor roses on the windows, mines one of the biggest 5kW you can get so no air vent needed.

 

We already had a kind of mock brick fireplace so no hearth needed but no actual chimney either so had to run a twin wall flue up and out (3 story house) via the family bathroom (involved me moving a rad and basin)

 

Cost was £3.3k fitted (inc the burner) and we saved a bit of money using stainless pipe inside then back to powder-coated black outside to match the roof and guttering etc.

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Ok so a little update , iv been in touch with several companys today , one that said its a cheap chinese model , another that couldnt help and another who has finally helped me out

 

After searching the internet and finding a near perfect match to one they sell brand new at machine mart but with different doors i got in contact with a company called bernard davies and co and he has helped out and told me it is one of the very first origional cottagers stoves and not a cheap rip off as mine has the glass in the doors and two opening doors bot just one

 

So from this i should be able to get all the details i need now to use it

 

Just needs wire wheeling , polishing , sealing and re roping lol

 

I think ill be busy this weekend removing more old bricks in the chimney and laying a hearth plus re pointing all the brick work and doing the plastering

 

Ill update how i get on in a few days

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Just check with your man that he'll be happy to sign off with a 'non-original' plate. He should be okay as long as you can prove what model it is and that the palte is the true spec for it. As easypops says, operation of a burner is a black-art in some respects.

 

You need to make sure your wood is completely dried out - it somewhat spoils the experience if it's not, as it will be smokey and not produce good heat. You shouldn't really mix coal and wood - will create all sorts of nasties.

 

I'm assuming your fitter is happy with the hearth and opening? If'he's doig a proper HETAs signed of install, there are set distances between the rear and the wall, the sides, the front for the front of the hearth etc...

 

And yes, as easypops says - don't run it with the door open - might as well just have an open fire and lose the efficiency gains!

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What are you using on the surround and the inside of the chimney , to make good ? . Render works well , but I have done a few using one coat plaster .

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Cheers jamie Ill tale all that on boar

 

As for the render im not sure yet , id quite like to leave it open brick so i might have to repoint it , iv managed to uncover the whole opening tonight and there are a few damaged bricks at the edges but to be honest i quite like the look of it not being brand new

We will deffo be leaving the opening bricks and we are going to decide weather we plaster the front of the chimney

Tomorrows job is to clean all the bricks with brick acid and go collect the pavers we are using for the decrotive hearth , iv already purchased the grout and some geocell sealent so i can go over the fire

 

Then it will be a smoke test for both the chimney and the burner

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I was only asking , as I've done some plastering for a builder today . He was plastering around the chimney breast in one coat . The fire - log burner bloke , specified 600mm on the face of the breast from the opening .so yes the inside can be left in brick , but the face should not be in normal plaster , because of the intense heat .

Edited by robrado974

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Little update on this then

 

Grafted all weekend stripping it back and using brick acid to clean it up , bought and fitted the hearth my self and grouted it on sunday , along with replastering the sides of the chimney breast

 

Iv re sealed all the joints in the stove and it just needs polishing now with some stovax stuff i got of ebay

 

Ill post some pics over from tapatalk

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So from how it was when we bought the house to now

 

[ATTACH]82758[/ATTACH]

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[ATTACH]82764[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]82765[/ATTACH]

 

Chuffed to bits with it just need to wait now for the quotes for fitting

Thanks everyone for all the advice given this is a top forum with knowledge not just for cars

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Looking good mate, quite the I improvement!

 

Get it in and fired up ready for Xmas

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It doesent look like alot of work to be honest but that was a solid weekend of work that

 

Does look so much better though and it is weird how they all got covered up

 

Deffo fuzz shame shame the fire wont be in though

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What solution did you use for the brick Mat? I've got some concrete I want to try cleaning but not sure what to use.

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Its called brick acid jamie you can get it from most diy places , diluted mine to about 3parts acid one part water and sprayed it on while scrubbing , just wear gloves mask and gogs but to be honest it doesent really react with anything but the bricks so getting it on your hands doesent burn or anything !!

 

I used a big pump up spray bottle to dilute it back down once id finished a patch just to wash it down

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