VR6 not ticking over

[GUS 0]

The cars been parked up for a couple of weeks and I thought I take for drive this evening and its not ticking over, all the dash lights are still coming on.

 

Tried jump starting and that hasn't helped either.

 

Any ideas where to start looking?

[John Blount 11]

I'm assuming it won't even turn over?? Immobiliser more than likely either the factory one or one that's aftermarket if fitted?

[GUS 0]

Yep it doesn't turn over, not a sound. Its fitted with a GT Alarm.

[John Blount 11]

Similar thing happened to me, I dropped the key and it split apart just like it would if your changing the battery for the key light. Didn't think anything of it to start with after putting it back together until the car wouldn't turn over(dash lights on but that's it)

 

Turns out the chip in the key had fell out when I dropped it so the car thought it was just a key without the transponder. Luckily for me I found the chip but it's worth checking its in the key.

[GUS 0]

I've tried using my spare key and alarm transponder, but still nothing.

[seanl82 23]

Factory immobiliser would still allow the car to start, but would cut out after about a second. I'd say get your battery charged fully first, or disconnect it completely and try jumping it again directly onto the cables. If your battery is proper dead, even a jump won't work with it in place. Also worth trying to wiggle the key up and down in the switch whilst in position 2, as this is also an ignition switch symptom.

[seanl82 23]

Oh, if the alarm or immobiliser is aftermarket then it's entirely possible that it will cause these symptoms.

[GUS 0]

Will try all these options and then probably get a auto electrician to give it a once over.

 

Is it true that 90% of Corrado problems are electrical related rather than mechanical.

[Dox 22]

I'd start by charging the battery over night, 2 or 3 weeks of sitting around is enough to drain the battery to the point of a non start. If you do end up getting an auto electrician he'll thank you for giving him a good start for his fault finding mission

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

i agree with Dox - a dying / dead battery can cause all sorts of issues

 

IIRC dash lights etc will come on if it has a little charge but then nothing will happen if it has low juice

 

i put a solar trickle charger on whichever rado i am not using that day to try & stop the batteries depleting

 

you can bump start a VR but they are heavy to push & will run rough for a short run until you can switch it off & then re-start it (sometimes the fuel mapping goes a bit odd)

 

i think, but not sure as it was the gf's storm which did it, but if the fuse is blown for the immobiliser you would also get the symptoms you describe

 

personally, i would say that 90% of issues people get with rado's are due to lack of use - they dont like being sat doing nothing & then throw their toys ouit

 

perfectly timed example being my VR playing up last week as i hadnt used her for maybe 5 days and i had forgotten to put the trickle charger on - which resulted in a very rough 1st start with revs almost dropping to zero & then barely ticking over. i had to give it some throttle to get it going on the 2nd start (which i never do as according to the manual). then the journey to & from work had my rev's sometimes jumping all over the place when it was trying to settle to tick over

 

3 days of constant use & all was peachy again

 

get the battery sorted & then go from there m8 :)

[GUS 0]

Thanks guys, will focus my attention on the battery first.

[GUS 0]

Hopefully got Auto Elecky coming over tomorrow, he thinks it could be either of the following:

 

Immobiliser

Ignition switch

Relay

Starter motor

loose connection/wiring

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

Hopefully got Auto Elecky coming over tomorrow, he thinks it could be either of the following:

 

Immobiliser

Ignition switch

Relay

Starter motor

loose connection/wiring

 

how did you get on with the battery?

[fla 9]

when you turn the key but not to crank it over do you hear any relays? And when you crank it, do you hear a slightly loud relay click from teh engine bay? If so it could be a seized starter solenoid, in which case a few hard taps with a strong piece of wood could free it up temporarily. If when you turn the key to start and you get no turning from teh engine, but the cabin lights dim slightly it could then point to the immobiliser. Interested in what the electrician says

[GUS 0]

Just realised I have no way of charging the battery, I've left my trickle charger at my folks place in Derby as that's where its stored over Winter.

 

Now for the dumb Q, where exactly is the starter motor located, any pics with some pointy arrows of where I should tapping would be appreciated.

 

This is typical just as the weather picks up again and then the car breaks down.

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

Just realised I have no way of charging the battery, I've left my trickle charger at my folks place in Derby as that's where its stored over Winter.

 

Now for the dumb Q, where exactly is the starter motor located, any pics with some pointy arrows of where I should tapping would be appreciated.

 

This is typical just as the weather picks up again and then the car breaks down.

 

trickle charge wont help if it is that dead Gus - you would need a proper charging unit i would have thought

 

as for stater motor - open bonnet, stand in centre, look down between the fans & the inlet manifold, to the right hand side you will see the thermostat housing (where all your hoses go in & out), the SM is a 6 inch ish long cylinder just below & towards the front of the car

 

a long crowbar (or similar) & a hammer will be needed

 

FYI when mine weNt in the VR a tap worked once but then i had to bump start it

 

actually - if your alternator is ok you could bump start it & then go for a long drive to get charge back into the battery - obviously try not to use many electrics during the drive

 

that would at least allow you to rule either the battery or SM out

[Jim 1]

Never bumpstart a VR. Not sure if it's just urban legend but have regularly heard / been told over the years that you risk stretching / damaging the timing chain and other horrible things.

[dr_mat 0]

The issue is the engine jerks into motion Jim, so jump starting is ok but be gentle lifting the clutch..

Always better to charge the battery up, or at least use a jump starter battery.

[GUS 0]

Auto electrician did all his checks and it turned to be the battery.

 

He managed to get it started after jump start, not sure why this didn't work when I tried using my own heavy duty leads.

 

But still wouldn't restart after removing the leads, so need to get a new battery.

Edited September 16, 2016 by GUS
Mistake

[seanl82 23]

I amaze myself with how clever I am sometimes....................

 

 

:smug:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:lol:

[Dox 22]

The issue is the engine jerks into motion Jim, so jump starting is ok but be gentle lifting the clutch..

Always better to charge the battery up, or at least use a jump starter battery.

 

Have you never left a car in gear and turned the key? Was the result smooth movement or a lunge towards the car / wall in front?

[dr_mat 0]

Well I know, it's not nice. I have always been sceptical of the real risks of a jump start tbh, but frankly it *is* much simpler to just boost start than pushing the car down the road and dropping the clutch..

[Dox 22]

Well I know, it's not nice. I have always been sceptical of the real risks of a jump start tbh, but frankly it *is* much simpler to just boost start than pushing the car down the road and dropping the clutch..

 

It is, if you're at home when you realise you've left your lights on again! But at 7am after a 12 hour night shift the thought of a couple of hours wait for the RAC or a shove by a few work comrades I'd go for the bump start every time.

[dr_mat 0]

Given these car's propensity for killing batteries if you don't have another car sitting around to jump from I would be inclined to own one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322118718630