Cluffstarr 0 Posted May 22, 2018 Thanks for the Part Number - just ordered a pack of ten so hope to sort soon! All sorted with new clips and a screw at the bottom! Only bit bugging me is the seat belt cover at the top and rear of the door card. Missing the screw but looks like it should be retained behind the door card with nothing obvious? Moved on to the front door card as it has been a bit rattly since I bought the car. Also, the lock pin has always been loose. He’s a picture of it-looks sheared to me? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted May 22, 2018 That's correct iirc. The bottom bit is retained in between a kind of fork and slit on a little white plastic clip that attaches to the lock mechanism. It's a ball ache of a job fitting it all together though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted May 22, 2018 That's correct iirc. The bottom bit is retained in between a kind of fork and slit on a little white plastic clip that attaches to the lock mechanism. It's a ball ache of a job fitting it all together though! Yep Sean is right there should be a hook on the end of the rod . How that snapped off god only knows . I will check in a bit , I’m sure I have both , not 100% though , if I have I will send it to you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cluffstarr 0 Posted May 22, 2018 Yep Sean is right there should be a hook on the end of the rod . How that snapped off god only knows . I will check in a bit , I’m sure I have both , not 100% though , if I have I will send it to you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk That is fantastic! Let me know how much you want for them / postage via pm. As I'm using the car as my daily now these niggles are becoming rather more annoying! Also, my ABS light unit doesn't work anymore - I'm 95% sure its the light as I can still hear the click of the ABS pump that was there before but the light no longer works. Anyone have a 535 919 235 AA lying around...? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted May 22, 2018 That is fantastic! Let me know how much you want for them / postage via pm. As I'm using the car as my daily now these niggles are becoming rather more annoying! Also, my ABS light unit doesn't work anymore - I'm 95% sure its the light as I can still hear the click of the ABS pump that was there before but the light no longer works. Anyone have a 535 919 235 AA lying around...? I’m not bothered about charging you for the part , what price do you put on a tiny piece of metal anyway . Just a bit of postage will be fine . You have jogged my memory though , are these sided ?, does anyone know ?. The only reason I ask is my door pins are at a funny angle , I’m just wondering if I put two lefts or two rights on ??. Just need to check before I send someone a part that I need . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted May 22, 2018 I’m not bothered about charging you for the part , what price do you put on a tiny piece of metal anyway . Just a bit of postage will be fine . You have jogged my memory though , are these sided ?, does anyone know ?. The only reason I ask is my door pins are at a funny angle , I’m just wondering if I put two lefts or two rights on ??. Just need to check before I send someone a part that I need . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edit . I only have two one , that’s why I’m asking before I let it go . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cluffstarr 0 Posted May 22, 2018 Edit . I only have two one , that’s why I’m asking before I let it go . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I don’t have a clue as new to this but it would be appreciated. Otherwise, can you let me know exactly what I’m after from breakers etc? Just “door pin rod and attachment”??? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cluffstarr 0 Posted May 24, 2018 Edit . I only have two one , that’s why I’m asking before I let it go . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Morning, Got the other door card off this morning and the rods look the same to me...: Had a look on the drivers side and I think I’m needing a new rod and the White connecting piece? Finally, any quick fix for sorting the vinyl shrinkage on the tops of the door cards? This is my passenger one, drivers side is similar...: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cluffstarr 0 Posted June 3, 2018 Evening all, So my adventure to start using the VR6 as my commuter car started today and what fun we had. First of all my ABS light remained on for the whole journey. When I stopped I noticed it came on when travelling above 15(?)mph and remains on. I had it come on a few weeks back but after checking/cleaning the connectors on top of the front struts, seemed OK for the last few weeks... Now this... Also worrying me is that the car seems to have lulls in acceleration when under load between 2k to 3.5k RPM. It got quite bad at one point and I thought I was looking at loss of ignition / an issue with the battery / charging. However the car was able to get to and cruise at 70mph pretty much all the way from Somerset to my weekly digs 155 miles away.... I'm wondering if it could be misfire or clutch related..? I've written an EMail to Stealth as I'm not far away in Harbury but unless they had a courtesy car I cant really leave it with anyone... All this and I start a new job tomorrow! Any help greatly welcomed! I'm away from home so limited on just how much diagnostics I can do road-side...! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted June 4, 2018 Both sound like common issues mate, the ABS doesn't become active until above 15 mph, so there is a fault in your system - and generally its the sensor at that point. If its done the self test at start up then everything else apart from the sensor should be good. Hesitation sounds MAF related to me. Unplug the MAF then drive for a minute to see if it persists. The fuel/air mix will go to default without it plugged in so you should notice it. Just don't leave it unplugged as they do sometimes cut out at this point. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cluffstarr 0 Posted June 4, 2018 Both sound like common issues mate, the ABS doesn't become active until above 15 mph, so there is a fault in your system - and generally its the sensor at that point. If its done the self test at start up then everything else apart from the sensor should be good. Hesitation sounds MAF related to me. Unplug the MAF then drive for a minute to see if it persists. The fuel/air mix will go to default without it plugged in so you should notice it. Just don't leave it unplugged as they do sometimes cut out at this point. Cheers for the feedback. Going to investigate a bit this evening. Car took forever to start this morning. But thank god it finally did! Fingers crossed it’s a sensor on the abs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cluffstarr 0 Posted June 6, 2018 Both sound like common issues mate, the ABS doesn't become active until above 15 mph, so there is a fault in your system - and generally its the sensor at that point. If its done the self test at start up then everything else apart from the sensor should be good. Hesitation sounds MAF related to me. Unplug the MAF then drive for a minute to see if it persists. The fuel/air mix will go to default without it plugged in so you should notice it. Just don't leave it unplugged as they do sometimes cut out at this point. Unplugged the MAF while idling in the car park after work and had zero effect / didn’t stall. I think I’m on the hunt for a new one - any good deals around or just go to tps / vw heritage? Thanks all Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cluffstarr 0 Posted June 9, 2018 Evening all, Spent some time today running through various things with this acceleration / Rev issue. It was pretty bad coming back from the midlands last night. Sometimes even just sitting at a constant rpm, the car would splutter a bit until I put a few more revs on... Anyway, I’ve driven it with the maf unplugged and it seemed to run in a similar way, certainly felt down on power on a couple acceleration runs. I cleaned the maf anyway, replaced a dodgy FPR return pipe, pulled all of the ht leads off and looked for any oil (none thank goodness) and I’ve removed the coil to see if it was responsible for any kind of misfire but no cracking etc. I greased it all up before putting back on. I’ve also replaced the ecu fuel pump relay(109), just cause it was cheap and I’d read it may be the cause of poor running / difficult starting (another problem from cold at the minute...). But it’s still not running right. Last thing tomorrow before the run back to the midlands for work is to disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor and see what it runs like without that. Otherwise, not much more I can do without VAGCOM or time to take it off the road and tinker with it over a few weeks... Thoughts!?! Thanks in advance, Cluffy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cluffstarr 0 Posted June 9, 2018 Oh and I took this picture of the coil. Can anyone tell me if it’s reputable or not? It’s obviously not old... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted June 10, 2018 Original coil should be a Bosch unit, cost about 100. That looks like one of the cheaper aftermarket ones that can be had for 30/40 - I don't really know if they are any worse but they are certainly a lot lighter than the OE one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cluffstarr 0 Posted June 10, 2018 Original coil should be a Bosch unit, cost about 100. That looks like one of the cheaper aftermarket ones that can be had for 30/40 - I don't really know if they are any worse but they are certainly a lot lighter than the OE one. Is that from a distributor car? Mine is coil pack only. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted June 10, 2018 Oh ok. My mistake - yes mine is a distributor car and 93 as well. Yours must be slightly later. That's a replacement coil pack then, but I would prefer Bosch or Beru, maybe Bremi as a brand. Some of the other coil pack owners on here will know more than me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cluffstarr 0 Posted June 10, 2018 Oh ok. My mistake - yes mine is a distributor car and 93 as well. Yours must be slightly later. That's a replacement coil pack then, but I would prefer Bosch or Beru, maybe Bremi as a brand. Some of the other coil pack owners on here will know more than me. No worries, i agree I’d prefer a known / trusted brand but it seemed ok when removed. I removed the TPS connector this morning and went for a drive and it seemed ok. But I only managed to go around the block as was pushed for time. So I removed it and cleaned / greased it as best as I could. I have 155 miles to do later so that’ll be the big test! I’m hoping Stealth could take a quick look one evening this week... 🤞 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vr6monkey 1 Posted June 10, 2018 - Change the HT leads. I would like some 8mm Magnecor ones but they are pricey. Has anyone bought/experience of Mr-Retro-Leads off eBay. Seems good value (too good to be true?) Cluffy Magnecor are great, but expensive. So I went for some Bosch leads from Heritage, currently 30% off - £91. So far, so good. https://www.vwheritage.com/905qht020-bosch-ignition-lead-set-for-vr6-vw-spare Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cluffstarr 0 Posted June 10, 2018 Magnecor are great, but expensive. So I went for some Bosch leads from Heritage, currently 30% off - £91. So far, so good. https://www.vwheritage.com/905qht020-bosch-ignition-lead-set-for-vr6-vw-spare Can’t recall if I wrote before, but I did a full service a couple of weeks back - all filters, oil, plugs and leads. All oem parts. Done the drive up tonight. Still there and seemed especially bad when the end got hot bombing slowly through towns. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vr6monkey 1 Posted June 10, 2018 (edited) Can’t recall if I wrote before, but I did a full service a couple of weeks back - all filters, oil, plugs and leads. All oem parts. Done the drive up tonight. Still there and seemed especially bad when the end got hot bombing slowly through towns. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Lol - I saw June, but completely missed 2017... DONKEY Edited June 10, 2018 by vr6monkey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cluffstarr 0 Posted June 16, 2018 (edited) Afternoon All, My Corrado is off to Stealth on Tuesday. Having the misfire / acceleration issue looked at, the stage 1/2 fans and the ABS light which I think (hope!) is just one of the wheel speed sensors... Fingers crossed, especially on the first problem as that could be any myriad of things... I'm probably going to be pumping a fair few quid into the car over the next 6 months or so... I love driving it and will do so daily as we have two other cars in the household and four would be silly! Plus, I don't intend to sell it in a long time so putting on some mileage on top of the current 89k isn't an issue in terms of value... I wanted to ask others what you would suggest doing to make it a better daily car. I need to get a rusty tailgate sorted and the front bumper needs new paint, plus the rest of the car needs a MOP/proper paint correction at the very least. If anyone can recommend a good paint/body shop near to Gaydon/Southam in Warwickshire I'd appreciate it... I have refurbished Speedlines to replace the current crusty ones, some new bonnet foams and some nice new mats. That should be it for cosmetics. It doesn't need to be perfect as there's still the risk of parking dings etc. I want to get the underside treated too. As eluded to above, it'll be used in all weathers whereas it's been garaged the last two winters... It's more the mechanicals I need some advice/thoughts on. I don't want to touch the engine for performance really. It's quick enough for me (especially when it is working 100%!). But I'm wondering whether I get it cracked open and have the chain / tensioners done along with a new clutch and release bearing? Also, pressing the clutch or letting off the throttle when accelerating hard sometimes sends quite a jolt through the car. I read this could be related to engine mounts. I've replaced the front one with a vibra-technics one. Is it worth doing the rear and gearbox ones in relation to this issue or does it sound clutch related? Or any other thoughts what it could be..? Suspension? The car had advisories on the front top mounts at the MOT so those will be replaced. It had new rear shocks before I bought it late in 2016, however it is very softly sprung and am wondering about updating it all. I don't want to make it harsh riding or lower the car for aesthetic reasons but I think if it could be tied down a little it would improve it a lot. I wouldn't be averse to a little drop as it's in the standard off-road setup at the minute(!), but just a little lower might be nice... Also, the steering at speed on a motorway is a tiny bit skittish. Fine on A roads. Just wonder if there is a way to replace steering bushes? If these are the originals and 25 years old it's not surprising they're tired... I will try and souce some lupo wipers I think, as well as upgrading the headlight loom. Anything that anyone else can think of please let me know! Cheers all, Cluffy Edited June 16, 2018 by Cluffstarr Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1xshaunx1 27 Posted June 16, 2018 gearbox mount off a diesel golf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cluffstarr 0 Posted June 16, 2018 gearbox mount off a diesel golf That right? OK cool. What model / age? TIA Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted June 17, 2018 I don't think a new gearbox mount will make any difference to the drive or your snatching. If its passed the MOT then it should be perfectly fine, though I'm not entirely sure what it could be. I'm sure Stealth will be able to advise on everything you mention though. Just be careful the bill doesn't start running away with you! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
