g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 27, 2017 Hi all Am hoping someone can assist me with my VR for some reason my fans have decided to play up - as soon as i start the car they kick in on full speed does anyone know which of the 3 sensors works the stage 3 fans? it also happened a couple of weeks ago but i disconnected the sensor nearest the top of the rad & in the radiator, the one just under where the battery is, & when i started it up the fans did not kick in i reconnected that sensor & tried it again & fans didnt come on again i am thinking that might be the sensor at fault but am not sure - can anyone confirm & give a part number if possible pls? im off to the motor factors this afternoon having booked a half day thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 27, 2017 looking throught the VR6 cooling guide i can see this: "These are approximate as it depends on the age of the senders and how crusty they are. VAG-specified values and part numbers are listed further down. Stage 1 Controlled by the temp sender in the rad, directly to the fans Switch On: 92-97 C (198-207 F) Switch Off: 84-91 C (183-196 F) Stage 2 Controlled by the temp sender in the rad, combined with info from the yellow temp sender via the fan controller Switch On: 99-105 C (210-221 F) Switch Off: 91-98 C (196-208 F) Stage 3 Controlled by the black coolant temp sender, via the fan controller Not listed in the guide above, but it kicks in at around 110-115 C. For non-AC cars, stage 3 should never come on under normal conditions, if it does, you have a problem. Temp senders The coolant warning light is actually a level sensor (those 2 metal spikes in the header tank are what the plug is for and measure yes/no on coolant level). There is no over-temp warning other than the gauge going up/big cloud of steam coming out of the engine bay The main fan control temp sender is screwed into the radiator. This is a 3-pin brass jobber and has 2 different pin layouts depending on if you have early/late VR. It looks like early ones are all 3 pins in a row, late ones are 3 pins in a triangle shape." which is implying to me that it was the main fan control temp sender i disconnected i am thinking to try disconnecting that again, if fans do not come on but then do when i reconnect it i should replace that can anyone give me a sanity check on that pls lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 27, 2017 also found this from Kev "Speed 3 is controlled by the black sender. As Hombre said, that and it's yellow partner are in the thermostat housing, which is on the engine block behind the fan motor. A plastic shroud covers them, which you need to pull off." which is where i am at hopefully as the fans sound super loud will try black sensor first Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 27, 2017 anyone? leaving work soon... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted November 27, 2017 Quite often the high fans come on because you have an air lock at the top of the coolant system.. where the sensor is. A Corrado is for life, not just for the MOT. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 27, 2017 Quite often the high fans come on because you have an air lock at the top of the coolant system.. where the sensor is. A Corrado is for life, not just for the MOT. thanks i did follow the coolant top up procedure after i replaced the radiator elbow a few weeks ago but will add it to the list to check Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted November 27, 2017 I'd say replace the black coolant sensor followed by the radiator temp sender in that order. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 27, 2017 (edited) ok ive done some testing unplugged the black temp sensor & fans still on as soon as ignition is turned on unplugged fan controller & no fans with ignition unplugged temp sender in rad, no fans, plug back in & fans on so, my question is how do i determine if it is the fan controller or the temp sender in the rad? anyone have any ideas? i think i read a post from Kev saying that if the black sensor is unplugged & fans still come on with ignition then it is the fan controller - ? thanks Edited November 27, 2017 by g0ldf1ng3r Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted November 27, 2017 If you can get a meter across the pins of the black sender you'll know if its working. When cold it shoukd have high resistance - basically open circuit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 27, 2017 more testing with all 3 temp sensors unplugged the fans still come on with those 3 connected, if i unplug the rad sender the fans do not come on re-reading Kev's post - "Try disconnecting the senders with the fan running and see which one stops them. Radiator sender, then Yellow temp sender. If they're still going with those disconnected, it will be a faulty fan controller box." which is pointing me to the rad temp sender as if it was the controller the fans would still come on with the rad sender disconnected, which they do not sanity check pls lol ?/? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted November 27, 2017 I would say its the rad sensor, also the cheaper/easiest thing to try first, i heard the fan controllers can be hard to get hold of. My car has done about 230,000miles and the rad sensor has failed before, but still the original fan controller. Make sure you fit a new seal on the rad sensor, my leaked and had to remove it and refit, which means losing coolant. I don't even have a black sensor in the thermo-housing, i cut it off by mistake :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Wilkerson 10 Posted November 27, 2017 Hi everyone, unfortunately I can't help you with the problem, but everytime something brakes on my Corrado I spent weeks playing gessing games on what was the reason (talking about electrical parts). It teached me one thing - go use that ODB port to diagnose the problem. It will save you time and get your Corrado up and running faster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted November 27, 2017 Unfortunately the OBD will not help in diagnosing the radiator fan switches or control module - it will only check the blue ECU coolant temp sensor. I'd say replace the senders first, they will be cheaper than a fan control module. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 28, 2017 thanks to all for taking the time to reply i have a new rad temp sender on its way from heritage hope it has the O ring with it though as i didnt order one Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted November 28, 2017 Good luck mate. I've only just read your thread and it seems you are doing the right problem solving. Let us know how you sort it, as you will eventually Cressa Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 28, 2017 Good luck mate. I've only just read your thread and it seems you are doing the right problem solving. Let us know how you sort it, as you will eventually Cressa Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk thanks m8 got my hands full with rado's at present - the valver sprung an oil leak on sunday, jacked it up yesterday & it seems to be coming out the top of the oil cooler (between the cast part that attaches to the block & the metal cooler) so going to try changing the O ring on that first queue new post asking how to take the cooler apart lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 28, 2017 thanks to all for taking the time to reply i have a new rad temp sender on its way from heritage hope it has the O ring with it though as i didnt order one spoke to Heritage - temp sender does come with the gasket o ring, phew lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted November 28, 2017 I was just about to say it does come with the ‘o’ ring . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 28, 2017 I was just about to say it does come with the ‘o’ ring . winner, thanks rob :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR-OOM 0 Posted November 29, 2017 My fans ran on even with the engine off, I had to disconnect the fans to stop the battery from going flat. I changed all the temp sensors inc the rad to no effect, in the end it turned out to be the fan control module. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted November 29, 2017 What's the part number on your fan controller. Only asking as someone may have a spare you could try. My car isn't moving so you could try that (posting) but I'm sure someone will be more local to you Cressa Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 30, 2017 What's the part number on your fan controller. Only asking as someone may have a spare you could try. My car isn't moving so you could try that (posting) but I'm sure someone will be more local to you Cressa Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk thanks for the offer cressa, much appreciated i got the new rad sender fitted yesterday afternoon & when reconnected i now do not have fans when i turn the ignition on i did the coolant top up procedure to rid any air locks but managed to not loose much coolant during the sender swap thermostat worked as it should but when i let the engine run until water temp got to where i thought fans should kick in but no fans - odd! water temp got to not far off 110 & i shut off as a just in case - fans came on for over run as you would expect thus im now not sure if it is a dodgy sender temp didnt get to the point you would expect fans to kick in on way to work this morning so going to have to check & test over coming few days will also check i reconnected the yellow switch ok in the stat area Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted November 30, 2017 thanks for the offer cressa, much appreciated i got the new rad sender fitted yesterday afternoon & when reconnected i now do not have fans when i turn the ignition on i did the coolant top up procedure to rid any air locks but managed to not loose much coolant during the sender swap thermostat worked as it should but when i let the engine run until water temp got to where i thought fans should kick in but no fans - odd! water temp got to not far off 110 & i shut off as a just in case - fans came on for over run as you would expect thus im now not sure if it is a dodgy sender temp didnt get to the point you would expect fans to kick in on way to work this morning so going to have to check & test over coming few days will also check i reconnected the yellow switch ok in the stat area You may as well change the senders in the block as well Goldie . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 30, 2017 You may as well change the senders in the block as well Goldie . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk thanks rob will do some testing & may replace them all like you say Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted December 4, 2017 did another test on the VR on saturday took her out for a run, all seemed to be well. let her warm up further on the drive when i got back & am pleased to report my fans kicked in at stage 1 as you would expect job done :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites