Car won't turn over

[Popeye775 16]

Hey guys!

 

So here is the issue. My G60 was having stalling issues when it got up to operating temperature so I got a new distributor in order to replace the hall sender. The car sat for about a month and a half before I was able to work on it. I also replaced the battery because my old one was in pretty rough shape when I tried starting the car after replacing the distributor. Now here is my issue: my car won't start at all after replacing the distributor. I made sure that the wires were going to the right places and everything like that, but the car won't turn over. It almost sounds like it is out of gas but I made sure that there is gas in it. Is this just a timing thing since I just replaced the distributor? Or do you guys think this is something else?

 

Thank you!

[fendervg 32]

Is the wiring to the hall sender on the distributor intact and connected? It might have got moved or damaged. Also check that the lead from the centre cap is correctly connected.

 

I think your best bet is to check for spark from the coil and then at the leads individually.

[Popeye775 16]

Everything is connected and it is not damaged. I will double check for spark. I am curious if the distributor wasn't lined up correctly and threw the timing out of whack.

[Simeon 0]

Yeah I'd start with the static timing, get it all lined up and make sure the line on the edge if the distributor is in line with the rotor arm

[Popeye775 16]

Will do! Thank you! I’ll report back in a couple minutes to let ou know if that worked

[Popeye775 16]

Hey guys so the rotor was flipped away from the line, so I flipped it and tried again and now the battery just sounds dead. It is a brand new battery that I got yesterday. I have tried to turn the car over probably 20-30 times since hooking up the new battery. You guys think the battery is just drained from the car not being able to turn on?

[1xshaunx1 27]

Try putting the battery on charge if you don’t have a tester. If the amp metre flies up it’s drained and needs charging, might have been on the shelf a while and it sounds like you’ve been trying with it for while

[Gti_Jamo 10]

You'll need to do the engine timing when changing the distributor as everything will be out of sync. Unless you set it to TDC at number 1 and marked everything prior to removing it.

[Simeon 0]

Are the HT leads on correctly? Starting from the one that lines up with the rotor arm when at tdc should be 1-3-4-2 with no.1 being closest to cambelt

[Dox 23]

Its a 4 stroke engine, suck, squeeze, bang, blow.

 

No1 piston is on TDC twice per cycle.

 

 

Remove the cam cover and spark plugs, with a spanner on the crank pulley rotate the engine to TDC (you can carefully place a screwdriver inside number one plug hole - timing belt end, to watch the piston lift to its full height) with the cam lobes on number one cylinder pointing skywards in a V formation (if they're not rotate the engine another 360 degrees) , remove the dizzy cap and check you've put the dizzy in correctly.

 

 

If you use the screwdriver in the plug hole slow and easy is the way to go as you don't want it jamming and damaging anything

[Popeye775 16]

SO here is where we are at today. Dox I did not see your comment until now I apologize. I noticed the plug wires needed to be moved one place clockwise and now the car is closer to starting. Today I got a MEAN backfire when trying to turn it over again (something to worry about??). What I want to do is what Dox said. Set it to TDC and then set the distributor to the correct position. Can I rotate the crank pulley with a spanner with the wheels on the ground? or do both front wheels need to be lifted in order to turn it? (sorry if dumb question haha)

[Popeye775 16]

Also thank you guys for all your help! It is greatly appreciated.

[Simeon 0]

What I want to do is what Dox said. Set it to TDC and then set the distributor to the correct position. Can I rotate the crank pulley with a spanner with the wheels on the ground? or do both front wheels need to be lifted in order to turn it? (sorry if dumb question haha)

 

Have you been playing with the distributor without having the timing set at TDC?

 

Just put the car into neutral to rotate the engine

[Popeye775 16]

Yes because that is what I was told to do by a family member who works on cars was to mess with the distributor until it is in the correct spot. Honestly setting it to TDC just seems better and easy to do

[Popeye775 16]

Hey guys! So, I got it running. I set the timing belt pulley to TDC and aligned the distributor. Double checked everything and it started! I appreciate you guys helping me out with this!

[Dox 23]

At the end of the day we only gave advice, you listened and got the car to run, so well done you

[Simeon 0]

Hey guys! So, I got it running. I set the timing belt pulley to TDC and aligned the distributor. Double checked everything and it started! I appreciate you guys helping me out with this!

 

Good stuff, well done

 

Tell your family member to stop working on cars...

[Popeye775 16]

New issue now haha. The car turns on but won't stay on. It stays on for maybe a couple minutes (not even enough time to warm up to operating temp) and shuts down. It has major difficulty turning back on after shutting off. Any ideas?

[fla 9]

fuel feed blocked perhaps, maybe due to clogged filter? Also check the return line - this just goes back to the tank. Might help to check pressure at the fuel rail too.

Fuel pump relay ok? On the VR this is number 167 (or 67)

[Simeon 0]

How does it run for those 2 minutes?

 

You could check the usual culprits - the ISV and the idle screw on the throttle body [this has a rubber o-ring that sometimes deteriorates resulting in an air leak] - although these will usually result in a rough idle / no idle at all.

[Popeye775 16]

fuel feed blocked perhaps, maybe due to clogged filter? Also check the return line - this just goes back to the tank. Might help to check pressure at the fuel rail too.

Fuel pump relay ok? On the VR this is number 167 (or 67)

I actually had replaced the filte and the pumpr not too long ago but did have to replace the line running to the fuel rail so maybe it isn’t on their good enough? There’s no gas leaking from it so I can’t see that being an issue but it might be.

[Popeye775 16]

How does it run for those 2 minutes?

 

You could check the usual culprits - the ISV and the idle screw on the throttle body [this has a rubber o-ring that sometimes deteriorates resulting in an air leak] - although these will usually result in a rough idle / no idle at all.

 

 

It runs pretty good for that couple minutes. It sounds fine and isles pretty well. I’ll double check the ISV and idle screw just to be sure though. If the fuel line hose isn’t all the way on could this result in an air leak as well by chance?

[Popeye775 16]

So I just replaced the spark plugs and ignition coil as well. That made It so that the car turns on and runs for a good 8-10 minutes and then just shuts off. What do you guys presume this could be? It just doesn't want to stay on for more than 8 minutes. Could there be a short in the plug wires or something wrong with the ignition switch?

Edited March 20, 2019 by Popeye775

[Simeon 0]

Sounds temperature related, what condition is your blue sensor in? These are notorious for causing issues on G60s

[Popeye775 16]

Sounds temperature related, what condition is your blue sensor in? These are notorious for causing issues on G60s

By blue sensor, are you talking about my coolant temperature connector?? Just want to clarify haha