How do I remove the vw alarm?

[easypops 8]

As the title says, I’m looking for advice on how exactly do I go about this. There are 2 black boxes and the siren along with a load of wires.

Is it actually possible to remove it without completely killing the electrics?

There just seems so many wires?

I am also removing a Cobra immobiliser I’ve found but that is easy compared to the standard stuff

 

[fendervg 33]

Just follow all the wires one by one - most of them will be sensors, then the LEDs and to the siren.  If it's just alarm, that would be it, unless it also has central locking on the fob. If it's also an immobiliser it will cut the power to the fuel pump relay and possibly also the starter/ignition live. These will have been cut, and each end connected to wires from the alarm box, so that a relay inside the unit can turn the circuits on when the alarm is disarmed. These cut wires will be fairly obvious, but it should be possible to bypass by simply reconnecting one or two wires.

If it is the built in ECU immobiliser that came with late VRs, that might be a different story to remove, and others on here would be in a better position to help as I don't have any experience with them.

[easypops 8]

Blimey, can of worms indeed.

 I’ll be changing this ecu for the OBD2 one but I don’t think that will solve my problems.

In theory I don’t actually have to remove it but as it’s not working (as far as I’m aware) except it definitely had central locking from the fob, which is the original one .

I might just remove the Cobra at this point and stop , wait until this isolation situation eases and get a mobile alarm guy in and let it be his headache 

[1xshaunx1 27]

It’s not that hard easypops if you have a parts car to hand which I’m sure you do. They chop some wires out and put their own in, like fen says once you’ve removed the easy stuff chop their stuff out one by one and replace  with cable from the parts car of the same colour, you’ve got loads of time. They’ll also be plugs down there of the same colour not connected, if they weren’t connected before don’t be tempted  now. 

[fla 9]

I would leave it to an alarm guy tbh.  I converted mine to OBD2 which wasnt too bad but the way the alarm wiring is done is quite fiddly.  I had the original scorpion alarm and replaced it with a Toad A606i, which he comfortably installed after neatly removing the Scorpion.  Then again i'm sure you're far better than me at electrics Easypops (not hard tbh!)

[easypops 8]

5 minutes ago, fla said:

I would leave it to an alarm guy tbh.  I converted mine to OBD2 which wasnt too bad but the way the alarm wiring is done is quite fiddly.  I had the original scorpion alarm and replaced it with a Toad A606i, which he comfortably installed after neatly removing the Scorpion.  Then again i'm sure you're far better than me at electrics Easypops (not hard tbh!)

I’m absolutely lost with it if I’m honest. Although it’s vag, so must be original, I can’t see how it’s been working. There is a thin blue wire lying cut in the engine bay, which must’ve been for the bonnet open sensor(which isn’t there either). Other wires are cut close to the fuse box but with no visible other ends? It might be that’s just the way it’s meant to be?

The Cobra thing I found is very simple, but is totally separate from the standard one. I’ll remove that first(once the colour coded heat shrink arrives tomorrow). I’ll then have another look to see what’s next.

I do have a parts car Shaun so yes, getting spare colour coded wires will be easy. 
Id happily pay someone to come and do it for me and fit a new alarm but I know it’s very unlikely in the current climate plus if they see it as it is they’ll run a mile 🤣

 

[fendervg 33]

For the bonnet open sensor, that's usually just a spring loaded popper that earths itself when the bonnet is up - done with a ring terminal on the end of the wire.Mine looks original and is part of the lock latch plate - looks very similar to the switches on the door for the interior light.

As said - should be relatively easy, there are usually only cuts in two places, and a couple of splices. If it's an original VAG system it might be more tightly integrated into the looms, but as it was a rare option I think this is unlikely. Very few cars of that era came with factory fitted alarms/immobilisers.

If you have the time (should be plenty now!) and take it easy, just trace each wire back and you should be able to work out where they go to and what has been disturbed. If you look at an alarm install diagram, you can see that each wire has a dedicated function for a single component, problem is they are usually all the same colour to deter would be hot-wirers - and there might be some dummy ones as well.

[easypops 8]

Well, it’s off. Not too hard once you commit to it, you were correct Shaun, I just chased a wire at a time and to be honest it was actually quite easy. Very few wires were cut, they had mainly just been exposed and another soldered on.

I also removed a Cobra immobiliser at the same time, now that did have cut wires but all rejoined now 😁

[fendervg 33]

Good stuff. It  will make figuring everything out a lot easier with that lot gone!

[Bush 10]

Removing my factory fitted scorpion is on my to do list! Any pointers on where to start? From looks of it, most of the wires go to the fuse box.

[easypops 8]

37 minutes ago, Bush said:

Removing my factory fitted scorpion is on my to do list! Any pointers on where to start? From looks of it, most of the wires go to the fuse box.

Just give yourself as much room as possible, find the box/boxes and follow them wire by wire, I found that there was hardly any wires they actually cut, just exposed and soldered on, but I get the feeling they must’ve done the work before the loom was positioned as it’s a bit fiddly especially at the wiring that goes to the door(drivers side)

And try not to freak out as there are quit a few wires used and it’s looks terrible at the start 🤣

Edited April 11, 2020 by easypops
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