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1xshaunx1

My money pit

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Not touched the car for nearly 4 weeks since I got recovered after loosing drive on the way home, put it in the garage in disgust. Anyway after some calming and time doing housey stuff I’m missing the beast so yesterday pushed it out of the garage for a wash and back in and today I’ve jacked it up to diagnose the problem. 
As luck would have it, it isn’t total destruction of my 10 month refurbished Quaif lsd box.
It is however total destruction of the drivers UJ on the drive shaft. So need to replace the drive shaft.
Anybody had any experience of drive shaft madness from firms such as J and M or any other firm. Not sure about a 2nd hand eBay item, or maybe someone on here has a known good one they don’t want anymore. 
cheers guys

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35 minutes ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

Not touched the car for nearly 4 weeks since I got recovered after loosing drive on the way home, put it in the garage in disgust. Anyway after some calming and time doing housey stuff I’m missing the beast so yesterday pushed it out of the garage for a wash and back in and today I’ve jacked it up to diagnose the problem. 
As luck would have it, it isn’t total destruction of my 10 month refurbished Quaif lsd box.
It is however total destruction of the drivers UJ on the drive shaft. So need to replace the drive shaft.
Anybody had any experience of drive shaft madness from firms such as J and M or any other firm. Not sure about a 2nd hand eBay item, or maybe someone on here has a known good one they don’t want anymore. 
cheers guys

Mate if you click on the link it has upgraded drive axles up to a certain amount of power - has one up too 400 BHP. There is a six speed option one for a 2,9- will need to check if its for a 2.9 I guess as based in the States.  Pricey though. 

https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Corrado--VR6_12v/Drivetrain/Axles/

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Also might be worth asking J and M if they can possibly do an upgrade for a VR running high power output. 

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After being messed about by a drive shaft seller I’ve decided to just change the cv joint for how much it cost, I figured it was worth a try after the shenanigans with carsparesdirect. I did think to upgrade as you said Keyo but I figured I’d rather the shaft than the box as that costs a lot more. Not that bad a job to be honest. 508A5E4B-ABFB-42D1-9D83-4947A88A2707.thumb.jpeg.f02176453d0b3b62d849ae080d51190a.jpegB93D1C98-4BA4-4658-A01B-98226C2F96B6.thumb.jpeg.79278c2006dfa1f10f2141ac34b99ae9.jpegF673C95B-6D61-41DF-B7BE-B21F921F33C5.thumb.jpeg.a09211c4dc55a36bec1949826bd8ec46.jpeg

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2 hours ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

After being messed about by a drive shaft seller I’ve decided to just change the cv joint for how much it cost, I figured it was worth a try after the shenanigans with carsparesdirect. I did think to upgrade as you said Keyo but I figured I’d rather the shaft than the box as that costs a lot more. Not that bad a job to be honest. 508A5E4B-ABFB-42D1-9D83-4947A88A2707.thumb.jpeg.f02176453d0b3b62d849ae080d51190a.jpegB93D1C98-4BA4-4658-A01B-98226C2F96B6.thumb.jpeg.79278c2006dfa1f10f2141ac34b99ae9.jpegF673C95B-6D61-41DF-B7BE-B21F921F33C5.thumb.jpeg.a09211c4dc55a36bec1949826bd8ec46.jpeg

Looks good quality that- where did you get it from mate. 

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It does look the part matey. 
We’ll see how good it is when it hits the road which shouldn’t be long now

It’s a J&R one, came in at an eye watering £17 delivered. Wouldn’t normally buy one of the cheapest on the market but from what I can gather if it starts off good they are fairly trouble free. Hopefully given time I can give it a good review. If not I’ve got to come up with something else but at least I can move the car about under it’s own power now which I couldn’t do yesterday. 

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16 minutes ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

It does look the part matey. 
We’ll see how good it is when it hits the road which shouldn’t be long now

It’s a J&R one, came in at an eye watering £17 delivered. Wouldn’t normally buy one of the cheapest on the market but from what I can gather if it starts off good they are fairly trouble free. Hopefully given time I can give it a good review. If not I’ve got to come up with something else but at least I can move the car about under it’s own power now which I couldn’t do yesterday. 

Bloody hell god knows how they make a profit off that - and then there are classics selling a bit of plastic around the inner door handle for £70.00. Might be worth someone asking if they can make a 400 bhp version I would say they are a very accommodating firm- think they are based in my home city.  When this crap is over I'm determined to get some Hella indicator lenses made for a reasonable cost. 

Edited by Keyo

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I’ll see how this one goes for now, I’ll turn the boost down a bit 😉
I’ve just smoke tinted mine with the fogs while I’ve got the bumper off for a bit of flatting and buffing, which should happen tomorrow now I can get the car out of the garage. Also going to change my lip spoiler as I’m going to run standard speedlines for a bit which I’ve had refurbed with new tyres sitting around for 6 weeks. I’ve also got some brake duct vents and an early bumper grill to fit that I’ve had for ages. 

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The JR ones are very good value and have good reviews. I've used them in the past and the only issue I had was with weeping of CV grease as I had to use a cable tie cos I cocked up the ear band! The only other thing is that the inner CVs don't come with the seal. I think it's a fibre outer one and a rubber inner (both inner CV). 

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29 minutes ago, seanl82 said:

The JR ones are very good value and have good reviews. I've used them in the past and the only issue I had was with weeping of CV grease as I had to use a cable tie cos I cocked up the ear band! The only other thing is that the inner CVs don't come with the seal. I think it's a fibre outer one and a rubber inner (both inner CV). 

The joint I’ve put to on is the gear box joint and is all steel, it certainly seems to be good to go. I did manage to get the boot clip thing on but it took another pair of hands

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Yeah sorry for not making it clear, the side of the CV that mounts to the gearbox cup should have a rubber seal. The side that mounts to the boot/shaft should have a cork seal

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Wet sanded the bumper top and sides. Looks much better. There was some heavy shrinkage of the new paint I had done on the new bumper and Passenger wing the wing had a dent in and the start of rust on the bottom of it. The work was about 12 months ago so hoping it’s fully cured now but just goes to show what can be done with poorly looking paint. 
I will say though, I find it very tedious, I don’t think I could do it for a living. 
Going to put it all back together tomorrow and test drive. 
E2E7F089-EA56-4AE1-BAD1-889B56C89006.thumb.jpeg.fcf499397eca49268b930fd7645da1e4.jpeg40711319-4517-4A6D-9697-7E386B8F7D0B.thumb.jpeg.5b306281e04c17424f33f3c2ad180a80.jpegB917141E-007A-47DC-BCCB-E1ADB59673EC.thumb.jpeg.fa4f9645ce8c5ba86a31075f1800c79e.jpeg

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I agree with finding it tedious. I'm not skilled or patient enough to make a good job. Good luck in putting it back together and taking it for a blast 💥

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Wow! That paint finish is excellent. Did you spray it with cans or from a gun?

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11 hours ago, ChrisL said:

Wow! That paint finish is excellent. Did you spray it with cans or from a gun?

It was painted by a guy who runs a shop near me with a gun. He puts plenty of clear on so it can be made to look nice given time. I don’t think he’s had them in an oven after so the paint shrinks over time. Everything I’ve had done by him over the last couple of years has done it and ended with a finish similar to the first photo. 
The finish was achieved with 1500 grit wet and dry 2nd photo and 3 stage polish to achieve the mirror finish 3rd photo. 
I’ll take a photo of the stuff I used for polishing later. 

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If somebody is a bit new to paint correction, I’d advise getting an old bonnet or door and practice a bit before going too mad, watch a few You tube videos and when you set off rubbing with wet and dry don’t push on to hard, keep away from the edges 

The Flex polisher I used bellow. 

The pads are CCS Lake County green, orange then black  

with Scholl S3- green about 4 passes

then S20 on the orange pad for a couple of passes and finally S40 With the black pad which really does take any remaining swirl marks out. 
 

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Didn’t get the brake ducts on as my charge cooling and stuff is in the way so put it all back together without. I did put my 70mm spoonfed spoiler on though, I put this on because I’m a little lower on the standard 15” wheels and didn’t want to risk damaging my pretty rare good condition 90mm one.
 Also went for a test drive as had to drop the VAT receipts off at the accounts so combined the two missions. Steady on the way there and a bit of stick on the way back, I can report that I’ve got no issues with the new cv joint and it can handle more than 190 hp without letting go or turning the car into a vibration machine so all is well with that for now, we’ll see. I like the front better with the tinted fogs and indicators but I suppose that’s another marmite thing. For all you guys with your cars in bits I leave you today with a photo of a for now, fully working Corrado B524A0A0-007F-4121-928D-B2ED71FBF79C.thumb.jpeg.1bc8cba93fda93adfd81a976a9bb81fd.jpeg

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Cheers for the info on the polishing etc, I’m intending on doing some paint on mine myself as a temporary measure so was thinking if I put plenty of lacquer on I can wet sand and polish it up.

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37 minutes ago, ChrisL said:

Cheers for the info on the polishing etc, I’m intending on doing some paint on mine myself as a temporary measure so was thinking if I put plenty of lacquer on I can wet sand and polish it up.

Oh definitely Chris.
If you mask up well and try to blend upto panel lines, as long as the base coat is good and you have a good amount of clear without bubbles massive runs etc it’s  possible to rectify just about any imperfection, base colour match however is in the hands of the gods. 
 

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2 hours ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

For all you guys with your cars in bits I leave you today with a photo of a for now, fully working Corrado.

The C looks great, but please don't rub it in !

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I like the front better with the tinted fogs and indicators but I suppose that’s another marmite thing. B524A0A0-007F-4121-928D-B2ED71FBF79C.thumb.jpeg.1bc8cba93fda93adfd81a976a9bb81fd.jpeg

 

Looks great. I agree with you about a tint on the fogs and indicators. I’ve done the same on mine, along with tinted head light covers, I really like the look.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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15 hours ago, Tigerfish said:

 


Looks great. I agree with you about a tint on the figs and indicators. I’ve done the same on mine, along with tinted head light covers, I really like the look.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Cheers matey this photo shows it a bit better. I think the speedlines don’t look as good as the 17” BBS though I am a lot faster over the speed bumps now with these on  45C6BA7E-C76A-4BA5-AB44-611FEE9BF788.thumb.jpeg.c256ebdeb53d1ec400598fbc29add972.jpegD25C2738-15B5-42FC-B233-CA8BBA9FE2BF.thumb.jpeg.b5ebc492f95350245370e04049207d96.jpeg

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Yeah, the BBS do look wicked, and much better than the 15” speedlines. I know when I had 17’s on mine, it was very crashy over bad roads. The 16’s I’ve got now are much better, 15’s must be proper smooth.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Look what the wife found down the side of the wardrobe. I must have put it there for safe keeping and forgot. She only found it because of getting ready for the decorators. No more unfortunately  

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