How to remove fuel tank hoses climps?

[KarlosG60 2]

Hi, 

I'm working on fuel hoses replacement. Those ones:

I have the replacement (need to cut to 150mm and 160mm):

 

But I don't know how to remove this and after how to mount again:

 

Could you please help me?

Is necessary to broke those climps? And how about mount the new ones? 

I though today was going to be a profitable day but, no, as always.

 

Thanks

[_Matt_ 26]

Hi, lots or people doing this job, inc me and am about to approach it this afternoon. Good preventative maintenance.

To remove those clips you cut down from front to back with a dremmel or some metal pliers.
@Keyo on here has done it a few times on car in recent weeks and will be able to give some tips

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

[KarlosG60 2]

Thanks.

And how about cut here:

And make a splice with the new hoses? The length of hoses is strictly necessary be 150mm and 160mm?

[fla 9]

i think under that metal collar is a fitting to prevent the pipe from collapsing from overtightening any hose clips.  I think @Keyo took some photos in another thread detailing what he did and how.  I'll try and dig it out.

[Dox 22]

I’d only replace the one from the pump to the engine, the other is the return and is not under pressure

[KarlosG60 2]

1 minute ago, Dox said:

I’d only replace the one from the pump to the engine, the other is the return and is not under pressure

And what you did with the metal collar I refer in first post?

[_Matt_ 26]

tbf youe metal collars in in great condition. Mine are heavily corroded - is the pipe you're concerned about? There is something inside the pipe under the metal collar to stop it getting crushed.

To cut the metal collar just take a dremmel or metal snips to cut length ways from front to back and it will come off. 

[KarlosG60 2]

28 minutes ago, MJA said:

tbf youe metal collars in in great condition. Mine are heavily corroded - is the pipe you're concerned about? There is something inside the pipe under the metal collar to stop it getting crushed.

To cut the metal collar just take a dremmel or metal snips to cut length ways from front to back and it will come off. 

I have had some problems past two years related to the loss of fuel from these hoses and I have to change them to avoid repeat the problem as much as possible. 

How about cut the hose, not the collar metal and make a merge with the new one using some PVC/Silicone pipe or something?? Do you think is not a good solution?

Edited May 1, 2022 by KarlosG60

[Keyo 47]

You have to slice off the metal mushrooms without cutting the pipe under mushroom ( go vertically from underneath ). If they are nice and rusty its easy just fall off- if they are solid its a pain - start working a metal flathead in between the mushroom and pipe- use some pliers squash the mushroom a little - you just got to weaken it and it will eventually drop off the hose.  where the 2 pipes meet they are joined by a copper sleeve- you must not damage or collapse this. Do not over tighten clamps- fuel clamps are only torqued very low any way. use a screw driver to tighten not a ratchet, 

 

Edited May 1, 2022 by Keyo

[Keyo 47]

Also to add please can you post which fuel line or link so I can look its good enough as not to fail premature. If its off ebay many fakes always buy from a commercial seller or known - just like the 3m tape and tessa all junk fake. 

Edited May 1, 2022 by Keyo

[Keyo 47]

4 hours ago, fla said:

i think under that metal collar is a fitting to prevent the pipe from collapsing from overtightening any hose clips.  I think @Keyo took some photos in another thread detailing what he did and how.  I'll try and dig it out.

Good shout Fla. Detailed pictures here show sleeves . 

 

Edited May 1, 2022 by Keyo

[KarlosG60 2]

51 minutes ago, Keyo said:

You have to slice off the metal mushrooms without cutting the pipe under mushroom ( go vertically from underneath ). If they are nice and rusty its easy just fall off- if they are solid its a pain - start working a metal flathead in between the mushroom and pipe- use some pliers squash the mushroom a little - you just got to weaken it and it will eventually drop off the hose.  where the 2 pipes meet they are joined by a copper sleeve- you must not damage or collapse this. Do not over tighten clamps- fuel clamps are only torqued very low any way. use a screw driver to tighten not a ratchet, 

 

Ok, next week I will work again on that.

But if you are saying that could be very hard to cut and it's relatively easy to broke interior hose, I'm thinking about to find another solution that not involves cutting the clip/collar metal. Something like that:

Do you think it can obstruct the fuel flow or make the pressure go high?

 

43 minutes ago, Keyo said:

Also to add please can you post which fuel line or link so I can look its good enough as not to fail premature. If its off ebay many fakes always buy from a commercial seller or known - just like the 3m tape and tessa all junk fake. 

Yes, of course. It's from Heritage

 

38 minutes ago, Keyo said:

Good shout Fla. Detailed pictures here show sleeves . 

 

Reading 

Edited May 1, 2022 by KarlosG60

[Keyo 47]

7 minutes ago, KarlosG60 said:

Ok, next week I will work again on that.

But if you are saying that could be very hard to cut and it's relatively easy to broke interior hose, I'm thinking about to find another solution that not involves cutting the clip/collar metal. Something like that:

Do you think it can obstruct the fuel flow or make the pressure go high?

 

Yes, of course. It's from Heritage

 

Reading 

Personally I would not use that topran hose - this is the proper stuff for fuel hose external off a bonified seller.  .

 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/382558389619

[KarlosG60 2]

14 hours ago, Keyo said:

Personally I would not use that topran hose - this is the proper stuff for fuel hose external off a bonified seller.  .

 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/382558389619

Ok, thank you. I will look around here for a local store where can I buy 1 meter like this (one of the link is too expensive shipping to Spain).

[Keyo 47]

1 hour ago, KarlosG60 said:

Ok, thank you. I will look around here for a local store where can I buy 1 meter like this (one of the link is too expensive shipping to Spain).

It’s the brand you want to find codan SAE J 30  R9 1A  on hose which is fuel tested compliant . 
 

Fuel line inside tank which sits in fuel is R10 from memory .

Edited May 2, 2022 by Keyo

[Bauhaus 3]

What I normally do is cut off the original metal crimp and remove old rubber hose, then slip a brass fuel ferrule inside the rigid nylon hose which will prevent it crushing when you place your new rubber hose over the rigid hose then crimped with a stainless crimp or similar, this way ensures maximum fuel flow through the joint.

[KarlosG60 2]

Nice @Bauhaus

Is just the solution I've been thinking today. 

Edited May 2, 2022 by KarlosG60

[Keyo 47]

29 minutes ago, Bauhaus said:

What I normally do is cut off the original metal crimp and remove old rubber hose, then slip a brass fuel ferrule inside the rigid nylon hose which will prevent it crushing when you place your new rubber hose over the rigid hose then crimped with a stainless crimp or similar, this way ensures maximum fuel flow through the joint.

These copper sleeves are all ready inside the hard line hose so no need to put one in- just pop the new hose over it. Just need to slice the mushroom off and soft hose pulls off . 

if you slice the mushroom off this is what you will see . Just need to get between mushroom and pipe start from bottom and go vertical . 

Edited May 2, 2022 by Keyo

[Dox 22]

Re dremel, you need to cover the tank from sparks , sounds obvious/ condescending, but better safe than sorry

[KarlosG60 2]

The tank was removed. If don't, you can't access to these lines. So no danger at all (if I finally use a dremel).

[Bauhaus 3]

3 hours ago, Keyo said:

These copper sleeves are all ready inside the hard line hose so no need to put one in- just pop the new hose over it. Just need to slice the mushroom off and soft hose pulls off . 

if you slice the mushroom off this is what you will see . Just need to get between mushroom and pipe start from bottom and go vertical . 

Yes, but I just cut the hard line just past the "Mushroom" with a junior hacksaw and remake the joint, you only lose just over an inch of hard line and saves faffing about cutting the mushroom with a Dremel.

As they say there's more than one way to skin a rabbit.

[Keyo 47]

2 hours ago, Bauhaus said:

Yes, but I just cut the hard line just past the "Mushroom" with a junior hacksaw and remake the joint, you only lose just over an inch of hard line and saves faffing about cutting the mushroom with a Dremel.

As they say there's more than one way to skin a rabbit.

I just used some wire cutters sliced off the mushroom - looks a bastard to get a sleeve in that hard line as it looks moulded from factory so Im glad I did it my way. 

[Keyo 47]

My vr turn today - all the same eroded pipes . 

[_Matt_ 26]

Did mine yesterday. Thanks Keyo I hadn't realised the brass was inside the hard plastic pipes. I did use the dremmel in my situation as pipes were done on the work bench. Took 5mins max and way easier than I had imagined. 

[1xshaunx1 27]

On my list too. Well done for pointing this out mate 👍