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g0ldf1ng3r

Underside restoration parts help

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Hi All

The VR6 is planned to go in for an underside restoration over winter & i am about to embark on buying parts in preparation.

Plan is to drop everything off, blast & powder coat anything that can be & then buy new where needed - bushes, running gear, front wishbones, brake lines etc

Has anyone here tackled similar & have any info on parts & part numbers & where to go for them?

Randomly off the top of my head in no order 

Front top mounts

front wishbones with bushes (is it worth getting R32 bushes?)

drop links

CV boots 

steering rack boots

front disc back plates

possibly new discs & pads all round

rear top mounts

rear beam bushes

rear disc plates

exhaust hanger rubbers

thats about all i can think of, if anyone can think of other bits pls chip in, it would be appreciated

oh - anybody know if KW offer a refresh service for their coilovers?

thanks in advance

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Yes KW do rebuild their older units. I am doing a similar job on a 95 S2 Avant over the winter and have made spreadsheets of all the parts I could possibly need using ETKA, right down to the last nut and bolt with the prices and details of where they are coming from and tick things off as they arrive. They are starting to come in now but certain parts are Audi Tradition only and these people are a complete PITA to deal with. Most of the parts you need would be Febi but front and rear back plates  for me even down to the front back plates but the rear back plates would have to come from Heritage or someone like that. One big problem is the rear ABS rings, you have to use Golf 4 and these require matching grease cover rings from a Golf 3 1H0 501 639 and these are difficult to find.

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1 hour ago, Crasher said:

Yes KW do rebuild their older units. I am doing a similar job on a 95 S2 Avant over the winter and have made spreadsheets of all the parts I could possibly need using ETKA, right down to the last nut and bolt with the prices and details of where they are coming from and tick things off as they arrive. They are starting to come in now but certain parts are Audi Tradition only and these people are a complete PITA to deal with. Most of the parts you need would be Febi but front and rear back plates  for me even down to the front back plates but the rear back plates would have to come from Heritage or someone like that. One big problem is the rear ABS rings, you have to use Golf 4 and these require matching grease cover rings from a Golf 3 1H0 501 639 and these are difficult to find.

thank you for the input, appreciated

is ETKA online?

spoke to KW & the chap said can send them an email with what currently have & they will send out a reply with the correct parts available 🙂

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VW heritage do decent aftermarket or original back plates front and rear. VW use Lemforder bushes where not available and it's the best quality I've found in aftermarket, though I think most bushes are still available in isolation. As for the wishbones, one side is available genuine still I believe, but the other no (can't remember which). Again, VW heritage have them or can get them via classic parts at a surprisingly low price. CV joints are a bit hit and miss so try to get the best quality you can afford, and just get drive shafts powder coated. Disks and pads are the same, but any reasonable quality will suffice.

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I've done/in the process of doing this on my mk2 16v and mk3 16v and have done the work minus powder coating on the Corrado (silly boy but in my defence i didn't know about it at the time and it was my first renovation).

Keyo on here is a fountain of knowledge re parts and parts diagrams and I am sure will post and support but what I did, aside from ask Keyo for help, was to study the parts diagrams i.e. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/vw/RDW/COR/076 which is basically ETKA online and jot down the part numbers of all the bits I needed for each section I was renovating. I actually found it a really enjoyable aspect of the renovation but less so finding out most parts are obsolete. Sometimes you get lucky and LLL parts stock the items for reasonable cost but other times you have to get resourceful and start hunting the internet for part numbers. If you search in google with quotations i.e. "535201075AA" google will find you results of items matching the exact part number.

For bolts and washers etc I found a lot of things needed were obsolete so instead I would look for the bolt specs on the internet instead. Always make sure you go for 10.9 tensile and not the usual 8.8 tensile. VW chassis side bolts are always 10.9. Also get yourself and thread and pitch tool so you can measure the bolts that are on the car and get the right non oem replacements.

Avoid crappy brands - topran for example are utter rubbish. I have just bought some stub axles for the mk3 golf (exact same part nos as Corrado) and found the hole of the ABS sensor was slightly in the wrong place meaing the sensor fouled against the abs ring. I replaced with Meyle items and they were fine. Try not to bulk at the price of quality brands - bosch, lemforder - as I can almost guarentee if you don't end up buying them first you will do after buying something from topran/jp group etc.

Also note the mk3 5x100 golf rear axle and front drivetrain is identical to the Corrado. You can get parts from facebook breakers i.e Leo GS for reasonable prices. 

Lastly use LLL Parts, Autodoc and Mecatechnic.com for parts. Heritage is usually full of cheapo topran crap and they tend to only work part time though don't write them off completely as they are a pretty good as conduit to get parts from VW Classics in Germany (there is a link on their website). Do take your patience pills when dealing with Heritage though as it can be frustrating experience.

You can try vw parts departments as well for parts but vw don't support their classics and everything is usually obsolete. You can however get bargains if it is in stock. 

Good luck and feel free to post for help and we can step in to assist.

Edit - Lastly if you are doing the work yourself get yourself a set of Irwin sockets. They have saved me countless times on crusty bolts. 

 

Edited by MJA

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Also if you have OEM wishbones drop them off for powdercoating rather than replace with powdercoating. The bushes press in easily with a bench vice or if you're fairly local to me (Herts, i think you might be?) you're welcome to use my 20t press (or i'll do it :).

I went for R32 bushes on the rears of the wishbone.

https://www.facebook.com/SPSUSPENSIONLTD did the Koni coilovers on my mk2

https://www.facebook.com/carparts.buryfarm.3 are great for refurbing components such as the alternator. There are pics of my stuff on there - great job.  

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thanks MJA - id not found that page on LLL

good shout about the alternator too, mine could definitely do with a refub - do you have a record of how much it cost with them?

i was thinking of new wishbones as not sure how the originals would be after sand blasting - any reason you say to refurb existing than buy new?

yeah im aware it is going to be hunting around for lots of parts, im used to it after all these years with a corrado lol

im sending it to my mechanic for the work, too much for me to do on a driveway

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for me i paid £300 cash for Alternator, Starter motor and PAS refurb but think i got a discount for doing all at once. He sourced oem parts from all over Europe and got the original stickers as well.

Wishbones - sometimes there are issues with non oem hitting the ARB as clearence is tight. Believe Lemforder or OEM is the way to go.

Bolts is quite a substantial cost I had not bargained for. I could hardly re-use any of them and it looks a bit pants against freshly powdercoated frames!  

And that gold ring in the pictures is obsolete but needed for sub axle rebuild work. I bought the last 4 listed on some French site earlier this year 😞

 

 

stub axle1.PNG

Edited by MJA

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2 hours ago, MJA said:

for me i paid £300 cash for Alternator, Starter motor and PAS refurb but think i got a discount for doing all at once. He sourced oem parts from all over Europe and got the original stickers as well.

Wishbones - sometimes there are issues with non oem hitting the ARB as clearence is tight. Believe Lemforder or OEM is the way to go.

Bolts is quite a substantial cost I had not bargained for. I could hardly re-use any of them and it looks a bit pants against freshly powdercoated frames!  

And that gold ring in the pictures is obsolete but needed for sub axle rebuild work. I bought the last 4 listed on some French site earlier this year 😞

 

 

stub axle1.PNG

That is the wrong way around and will destroy the wheel bearing seal...

 

 

IMG_0182.JPG

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Well spotted ;) I wasn't sure as had an awful time with some topran stubs
axles where the abs sensor would not clear the abs ring. Swapped out for meyle and found the hole for the abs sensor had been machined in the wrong place. I tired swapping the gold ring around and and loads of other things to conclude the issue.

Never buy topran. I knew this but they were on offer so I took a punt.ec1a5c5b58fddb2ebfc9a65c0bf391de.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

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I will start you off with rear beam bushes - I like oe and use lemforder- others use poly which are easy to fit- the first a well know b sterd to fit. 

Get the bolts with this kit- these are the best quality available.  The bolts that attach the beams to the chassis are obsolete you need 6 but I found some audi/ porsche ones that are cheap - buy 8  of these as you use 2 of them on the front member so put them aside no 17 on diagram 

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/lemforder/1265578

Bolts part number is N90847602 M10 x 25  - cheapest place I got them from was Porsche - £1.20 each- vag use to charge a fiver each for there ones - they are beam carry bolts as well so correct grade . 

Maybe to keep things simple ask away on the rear beam- clear that off your want list and move onto next beam. 

 

Edited by Keyo

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15 hours ago, MJA said:

Well spotted 😉 I wasn't sure as had an awful time with some topran stubs
axles where the abs sensor would not clear the abs ring. Swapped out for meyle and found the hole for the abs sensor had been machined in the wrong place. I tired swapping the gold ring around and and loads of other things to conclude the issue.

Never buy topran. I knew this but they were on offer so I took a punt.ec1a5c5b58fddb2ebfc9a65c0bf391de.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

Febi make a really good copy of that spindle, yes Topran parts can be pretty awful; we fitted a Golf 2 shift lever along with the ball, it melted like candle wax!

Edited by Crasher

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Are you changing the rear brakes for mk4 items too, or is that already done?

Edited by Cressa

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15 hours ago, Cressa said:

Are you changing the rear brakes for mk4 items too, or is that already done?

hmmm - ive thought about it but apart from a slight hand brake improvement is there any other point?

im more refreshing underneath rather than nut & bolt resto

lots of hardware & solid items & things that are OK to re-use will be used again

ive also got to account for a new Cat1 with full closure - anyone have any ideas on brand & model choices?  im thinking Sigma but the last place i spoke to was saying need extra boxes for the full closure, whereas i recall the guy who fitted the Sigma on my 16v many years ago say he only needed to connect 1 wire to enable full closure

i also need to get the Modena's painted, rebuilt & tyres put on them - oh yeah & bolt on spacers front & rear

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On 8/28/2022 at 1:29 PM, g0ldf1ng3r said:

hmmm - ive thought about it but apart from a slight hand brake improvement is there any other point?

Due to their design there's less risk of them seizing

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The only catch with Golf 4 (1J0 615 423 G and 1J0 615 424 H) calipers is corrosion of the banjo mounting face, using copper washers rather than ally seems to stop it happening. I fitted a pair of rebuilt 1H0 fists on the Scirocco in the picture and I am sure they don’t quite have the response of the 1J0 but it could be my imagination.

Edited by Crasher

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