Kevin Bacon

I ordered this one yesterday - http://www.amazon.co.uk/TRIDENT-ROUND-CLAMP-PLIER-T371201/dp/B00J5MA4M8/ref=sr_1_89?ie=UTF8&qid=1408526576&sr=8-89&keywords=hose+clamp+plier

It's the one I've seen Stealth use and it's excellent. I wanted something middle of the road as some of the other ones on there seem too cheap. I like the ratcheting ones too, which leave the clamp open whilst you faff around pulling the hose off with both hands. Neat.

Yeah come on boys, there's no where near enough turbo fun going on at the moment!! :D

No experience of them personally but I like their attitude and approach. Should be good kits. Feel free to appoint yourself as the forum guinea pig :D

Ugly but what a machine!

What's 8B? Some kind of Irmscher? Weren't they Vauxhall tuners?

You've unwittingly created a good little car quiz there!

It must be doable fairly easily I would have thought, but it might mean a standalone display, which purists won't like ;)

Incidentally, BMW removed the dipstick on some American market models, but people complained so much they had to reinstate them!! I guess some people struggle to move on with the times!

Yeah that could work. Even easier if you've got an R32 sump, just drill and tap it as it should be thick enough :) Make sure it's round the back out of the airflow though.

Or maybe there is something on the market to replace the dipstick that acts as both a level and temp sensor?

Cheaper on Amazon - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ratcheting-Hose-Clip-Pliers-long/dp/B001IL8PY8/ref=sr_1_28?ie=UTF8&qid=1408448203&sr=8-28&keywords=hose+clip+pliers

EDIT: Scrap that, just seen the shipping cost, lol

Yup. Had to do the handle on my R32. Zinc inclusions pretty common on 2001 onwards cars too, but it rarely forms into full blown rust.

The top one is the one I've seen most VW techs use and it works a treat. http://www.hcl-clamping.co.uk/Spring-Clamp-Tool-Pack-P41

You want a tool with ends that turn, so that the clamp doesn't fly off in your face when you're moving the tool around on the hose. That is what happens when you use mole grips, especially on later cars that use 80+mm ones for MAF hoses etc.

Thats what I'm going to do Kev, the VW owners manual says don't even begin to worry until 140 and like you say modern oils are far better at handling heat that the stuff that was available 20 years ago.

 

Also, I've got a new rad and have flushed all the pipes and block through so that should improve my cooling.

 

Rog.

VW removed oil temp from the MFA on R32s, and also engineered the water gauge to always sit at 90 to stop people worrying :)

We did find the oil temp in Pat McCrotch's old MK5 R32 though, in a hidden menu. That was reading in the mid 90s. R32s take the reading from the sump, so I think reading the temp from the oil filter housing is skewing the readings, especially when you consider the R32 makes more power and therefore generates more heat.

Yep, changing the radiator and (mechanical) water pump, thermostat etc on mine made a big difference to running temps. Mid 80s on the water and mid to high 90s for the oil.

Just want to say well done on such a good advert. Pictures of all the key areas included and honesty about the condition. I wish all ads were like this.

Cheeky little cars too, awesome fun!

GLWS!

I would see if you can get hold of a proper probe you can poke down the dipstick tube and get the actual temperature, or go for a hard run and then immediately change the oil and measure it's temp.

I've never been scalded by oil coming out of the sump so I think the MFA / Sensor over reads on these cars. It's just a cheap sensor that heatsoaks. Rather like the intake one that takes 15 seconds to register a drop in temperature.

Stick good oil in it, drive it, don't worry about it.

Silkolene Pro S 10W/50 is the best oil for this engine, period :)

I would. Mine also had the stock cooler and mocal sandwich plate but it still over cooled.

The sandwich plate opens at 80C when it should really be 90-95 deg imo. My oil temps over winter were 82 deg, which is like pumping treacle.

120 deg oil temps were an issue in the 80s when the VR6 engine was designed, but not anymore with modern synthetic oils.

Bin the mocal!

Are you getting excessive oil temps running that massive external cooler?

I had a little 13 row Mocal in the same place and it severely over cooled the oil over winter, even when blocked off with cardboard.

The 02M diff shaft is bigger diameter than the O2A, so I don't think you can use O2M cups.

For what it's worth, I used bog standard GKN replacements from GSF / EuroCarParts on my VR6 Turbo years ago and they're still going strong.

But if you want mega strong, here are a couple of options:

Best and strongest shafts / CVs - http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/volkswagen

GKN do uprated shafts and joints too - http://www.gknservice.com/global/motorsport/cv_shafts_joints.html

Good idea. Jubilees are poo pants.

I would just get the dealer ones. Correct sizes and tension.

I think some people view an old car as chav by default, maybe because it's associated with being cheap, like a chav's clothes :lol:

But as you correctly point out, her super expensive and posh £50K BMW is actually just a few hundred a month, not hers anyway, limited to XXXX mileage, she has to give it back and will have squat to show for that monthly outgoing.

Fake snobs eh?

Would it do it myself but I am worse than useless with Photoshop. Jim? ;)

I'm a secret American like Hammond, so yep, bigger is better :lol:

V3s are worth the extra if you can stretch to them, but in all honesty, I reckon the B12 kit is a worthy alternative if you're not looking for super low. In fact I'd go as far to speculate the B12s might even be better as I found my V3s to be a bit under-damped. They were easily the comfiest coilovers I had though.

APs are great too, but you probably need £2K for those now. They were £1350 in 2008. And you need the wheels to get over them, so more expense!

PistonHeads has really gone down hill. Too many angry sorts who feel the need to comment in threads that don't interest them. Idiots.

Ha! Love the fact that he hates the RS 301 "aftermarket wheels"....... No accounting for taste, I guess!

I bet he flogged them on Gumtree for £50 :lol:

It's the same as James May pointing to the "High performance" brake pads on his Fiesta XR2i in the last season, but they were schitty old green stuffs :D

We need VR6 to graft the Bacon's nose onto Jaws's face first :lol:

Absolutely, not knocking it. I just like bigger discounts :)

I paid £1100 for my V3s back in 2008. Mind you, 6 years ago was a while I suppose. I was in my 30s back then as well, double yikes!

Anytime chap. Always happy to help a fellow booster out :)

It's a stainless clamp Bill Schimmel uses on his builds for holding 30+ psi, but being American, the head to tighten it is 3/8", but a 10mm might work.

Another one for skin tags- just use a pair of nail clippers!!!

Good idea! And the cotton trick :)

Luckily I've never needed any fillings or braces, but should the need arise, I'm sure a dab of chemical metal will do a good job. Sod paying Dentist prices!

About 5% off, but better than being slapped around the face with a wet salmon I suppose ;)

£1403 for V3s before discount! Yikes!