Kevin Bacon

Completely changes the car, so much bottom end torque compared to the 12V. It still suits the corrado as you can hang onto the revs past 6500 like the old VR6. The 24V is very quiet too so it does also modernise the car a bit too.

The S60 can do the VVT I think. My S80 defo did. You can pick up another 30-40lbft with a nicely mapped VVT. Give me a shout if you need any help with it.

You lose 50lbft with the HPA intake. The guys on the vortex did a back to back dyno. A few guys in the states have 310-320hp with cams etc.

Lovely mate :) The only reason MK4s make less than MK5s is because the smaller bore MAF and relevant ECU tweak. MK4 always felt a little punchier to me. The MK5 got a drop in CR and a different exhaust cam, which might be the reason! On the R32 forums, MK4 engines make 270-280 with breathing / zorst mods and the bigger MAF but as you're standalone, you should be able to get more than 254.

Do you know if your mapper mapped the VVT? You can get some good gains from using that! Sounds like your engine isn't far off judging by your mpgs. My remapped MK4 is currently averaging 29 and I can also hit low 30s on a 70mph cruise :)

Thankfully the rear 1/4 can be repaired easily otherwise it really would be game over for another Corrado :(

The rules around here change a bit with regards to 'for sale' thread etc. The bulk of the rules seem to have disappeared altogether!?

Nothing's changed mate. It's all in the orange banner at the top still :D

Parts for Sale are open forums, and we encourage open communication. It is the seller's responsibility to update the thread with full details, including informing when the item is sold. The Moderators and Administrators cannot assist with any disagreements. You all have driving licenses, and therefore should all be adults. We hope you'd be able to work it out amongst yourselves!

imo, the first person to say "I'll take it", gets it, simple as. All the other folk asking questions and not committing need to form an orderly queue with their "2nd dibs" and so forth behind Mr "I'll take".

I think that's fair? Then if Mr I'll take it decides he doesn't want it, Mr 2nd dibs gets it, and so on....

BUT.... that doesn't stop a late comer PM'ing the seller directly and doing a bank transfer on the spot. We have no control over that. As we say, we leave it up to you guys to sort amongst yourselves. We can't get involved with financial transactions unfortunately. :)

There is oil on the underside of the cap if thats what you mean, or take it off with engine running?

 

Tappets aren't new, i bought the engine 2nd hand, it does have 263 cams, i wondered if that may affect things?

 

Am sure i didn't notice the noise on the test drive before i fitted engine, although its one of them you notice at certain speeds while driving next to a wall etc

Yeah take the cap off with the engine running and you should be able to see the front cam looking nice and oily as it spins round, plus globs of oil spitting out of the rocker cover at you. It's a good sign. If it's all drier than a Nun's knickers in there, well, y've f'cked int ya :D

Unless the 263s are worn down or incorrectly installed, not sure what else it could be other than tappets. You may have got them with the engine but are they the engine's originals or were they new ones put in with the cams?! Questions questions. Where's Jonathan Dimbleby, he'd know the answers.....

But yes, Corrado VR6s do make a 'clattery' noise in general. They were never silent like the 24V.

Bit confused by the dyno plots! So it started out with 224hp and ended up with 284? Bloody good result if so! :) I do love an R that's at full health :)

Have you taken the oil cap off to see if oil is making it up to the head?

Could just be tappets. Are they new ones?

I'd still get it in writing (or email) from Timbermet that they admit liability. We all know what insurance companies are like.

I'm not sure if new doors are available anymore but if front wings were £250 and front bumbers were £500, you can imagine doors would be heading for 4 figures, so yeah, writing it off is a possiblity unfortunately.

I don't know what it is with VWs but this and other forums I use, every week someone loses their car or gets it damaged because of f'ckwits out there.

You're on the slippery slope now mate :D

I'd take the Schimmel intake and chargecooler over that any day of the week, but it's not cheap kit!

So long as you use a decent water pump (Meziere), decent size hosing (JIC/AN -10), a decent size heat exchanger and a decent size water resevoir, it should work.

HPA do one for the R32 which apparently works quite well. http://www.hpamotorsport.com/intake.htm

Bargain! Cheers for that. Some chap on the R32OC was selling 2 of those on an ally plate with some wires for 40 quid!

VW specify different sealants for the sump and chain covers and I would stick to it personally. Some people get an oil leak from from the upper chain cover (behind the thermostat housing) when it's not been sealed up properly.

This is what VAG specify for the chain covers - http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?countryCode=uke&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=1000000IYNE

Where did you get a 1 ohm 50W resistor from for £2?

That's odd then as it should be there!

If not then, get all the other timing steps done and when you take the timing covers off, the ground tooth on the crank sprocket should line up with the main bearing cap seam, the intermediate shaft sprocket arrow should line up with a mark on the block and the cam tool will insert easily.

If all that is true, you can ignore the missing crank mark.

No the MK4 tensioner doesn't need any preperation, just whack it in.

There definitely is a timing mark on the crank pulley. You're either not seeing it or your pulley has been messed with in some way. The notch in the pulley is very small and it lines up with a mark on the crank seal cover.

I would follow the wiki guide to the letter personally.

Love Guy Martin - I want him as a pet!

He'd look like you if he shaved all that moss off his face.

... I suspect that's not his car!

My first thought too.

My second thought: the things people will do to get a 'viral' clip on Youtube :roll:

The V1 is bigger and definitely better suited to the VR6 than the V9 was! Don't get me wrong, once you get to 4000rpm, it will scalp a standard VR6. It feels a bit like an M3 engine in that it just keeps pulling to the redline, very smoothly, but it's still an engine that needs to be worked to get the power out of it. To some folk that is dissapointing because the whole idea of FI is to make the VR6 feel less lazy low down, but S/Cs do nothing to improve that :)

Throwing in the cams on yours might spice it up a bit low down and Stealth's mapping has also come a long way since the early S/C days, so that might help too.

Gives me something else to think about, when I do my MK4 climatronic with AC install:scratch:

Into a MK4 or Corrado?

This might help - http://www.users.on.net/~graeme86/images/R32fanschema.jpg

And this is the easiest fix for the low speed not working - http://www.nime.co.uk/content.php?fsc1

You can run external 1ohm resistors but they get pretty hot and ideally need mounting onto a heatsink, plus they get exposed to water etc, so I used the Nime solution instead, which works well.

That low speed not working was a Golf thing anyway. Still happens on MK4s and MK5s today. What is it with VW and their useless bloody fans?!?! :) Golfs with A/C run the fans on low speed every time the A/C is switched on, so the resistors burn out prematurely. You can get fixes for that but Corrados had the most over-engineered fans of all!! I've never heard of low speeds burning out personally it's so rare. Practically every MK4 V6 on the roads has a burned out low speed resistors. Did VW do a recall? Nope!

Vince`s car isn`t running at the moment, and he`s thinking of changing the engine to a FSI 2 Ltr

Yeah the radiator's knackered apparently. Bizarrely, that demo car seldom gets the attention it deserves but it's been beat on for years now and still reliable, which is a testament to the kit :) TFSI makes sense really. Good power, good economy, less weight over the front wheels etc but TFSIs aren't without their issues either, such as chain stretching (who'd have thought it!!) and heavy oil consumption.

Who knows, if I'm not happy with my charger then it might be for sale over the next couple of months.

 

Mr. Bacon is making me regret charging my VR and I haven't even driven it yet :lol: But it came at a price low enough to take a punt on, and I don't think i'll lose much from it if I were to sell.

LOL, sorry :)

I think you're using a V2 or something aren't you?! That might work out OK, but I just hated the Supercharger I had, which was a V9. It did bugger all below 4000rpm (except make loud and embarrassing noises) and it only makes the numbers on the first cold run, unless you fit an intercooler, then you lose 4psi of boost, and then there's the MAF issues, belt slip issues, the list goes on and on! I don't regret many things in my 20 year modding career, but that Supercharger is definitely one of them!

The turbo is just something else entirely. Much better power / torque curves, far sexier sounding exhaust, no mechanical whining / grinding noises and much more power from the same boost :)

A few of us started with S/Cs and moved onto Turbos, so we don't like seeing folk make the same (expensive) mistakes ;)

It won't cost anywhere near 8-10K.

You're going about it all the wrong way. Focusing on price over everything else. You may aswell just buy an M3 then if you just want something fast. It'll certainly handle a lot better than any Corrado to boot.

You guys should try Stealth's turbo demo car before making your decisions. You won't go anywhere near gutless Superchargers after driving that :)

Alfa interiors make you realise how boring German ones are!

Not touching the suspension on mine as it's plenty hard enough, but I am interested in the FSDs when the OEM Bilsteins let go.

That sounds like the dual borla TT exhaust we know and love. It has exactly the right tone and volume level for OEM+ imo and no cabin drone at all.

Are the brakes a bit too sharp then?