Kevin Bacon

Just drop a 24V in mate, and then all your noise and wear issues will be dealt with in one fell swoop :D

Koenigsegg have been working on cam-less valve actuation for a while now too. They've been trialling it a Saab on a 4 pot motor with good results so far. The solenoids are bloody noisy though, so maybe that will improve over time too.

Renault also showcased their full electric motor in the late 90s too, which had cam-less valve solenoids, no pulleys at all (electric pumps) and an alternator / starter motor built into the flywheel. It was also the first engine to use a twin scroll turbo.

If they added Saab's old Variable compression ratio technology to these continuously variable valves, a 1.6 n'asp engine could make well over 300hp and be super frugal.

Kev bacon did something similar on his except he used the standard vr6 airbox looked good

I did indeed!

The R32 motor made 267hp with the Corrado air box and paper filter so it wasn't miles off. Might have made a bit more with a BMC on the other side but 10hp here and there won't really be felt to be honest.

O2Js have a partial lock of the output flanges like the 020 used to have. 02A and 02M don't.

I thought 16Vs had K jet?

Never had any issues with VR6 nose weight either. The people who get loads of understeer from VRs must have schitt tyres or drive like an idiot. I.e. Clarkson "Full throttle into the apex" style.

Good stuff!

Mpg gauge on the MFA you mean, and perhaps reading higher than it should? That'll be the red top injectors. Small pulses, which is how the VR6 MFA calculates MPG. Wide open throttle = long injector pulses and cruise and idle = short injector pulses. The ECU is programmed for the original orange tops, so the reds won't read right. I was seeing 44mpg at 80mph with my red tops when it was charged, which is ever so slighlty optimistic :D

Thanks to the EU Union raping us at the pumps, no big engined short production run car is worth buying purely for investment purposes, but I don't think R32s will depreciate any more than the Corrado has / is. I also don't think the MK5 will be as fondly remembered as the original.

Anyway, have a drive of all 3 and see what tickles your fancy. Unfortunately, R32s tend to attract a lot of mechanically ignorant scenesters and / or chavs, so do some strong research and always buy at the top of your budget. You will know a good one when you see it.

Just bits of random metal particles that float around the engine! It builds up over time and can weaken the signal but it doesn't happen in all engines. If AA are paying, yeah replace it! Make sure they don't get a cheap arse Chinese one that will last 2 minutes!

My original failed without warning in our High Street after 16 years. Never had any hot or cold starting problems due to it.

Yep, that's what usually happens. They either work or they don't.

The built in check valve is a simple ball/spring affair which rarely breaks.

Fast & Furious: Tokyo drift, which is on the TV at the moment. My god, what an abysmal film! Incredibly bad acting and a ridiculous story. Minus 1,000,000 out of ten.

Django - 10/10. Easily QT's best work to date, imo.

Flight - 9/10. Much better than I was expecting.

Last Stand - Terrible. 1/10

Bullet to the head - Awful. 2/10

Six Bullets - Didn't mind that actually, 6/10.

Die Hard 5 - Average. None of the classic DH atmosphere or Bruce W one liners from the first 3. 5/10.

These old timers really should just give up now!

+1.

Crank sensor. Take it out and check for swarf first as they are well over £100 for a new one!

Last time I went in for 'sump bolts', I was given a sack of these newer torx ones and told they were for all 12 and 24V engines. I couldn't tell you if that's the part number though, but it's clearly not a corrado specific part no.

You'll be fine with the fabric gasket on your sump. So long as you torque up the bolts in a diagonal fashion and don't over tighten them, all will be well.

---------- Post added at 3:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:35 PM ----------

Cheers Kev just wanted to double check, any idea why the change? stronger i presume

More surface area for the tool to grip I suspect. i.e. less chance of rounding them.

I've rounded out a couple the older allen headed bolts a few times, which is strange as they're only torqued up to 10nm!

---------- Post added at 3:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:38 PM ----------

Cheers Kev just wanted to double check, any idea why the change? stronger i presume

More surface area for the tool to grip I suspect. i.e. less chance of rounding them.

I've rounded out a couple the older allen headed bolts a few times, which is strange as they're only torqued up to 10nm!

+1 /\

Sorry to derail the thread but I feel a rant coming on....

I've always used bank transfers. Obviously there is a (small) risk someone could do a runner with your cash and keep the goods, but they can easily be tracked down via their account number. Or if it's a high price item, go and collect it. With something like a VSR, you're going to want to make sure everything is present and correct anyway, but therein lies another thing internet shoppinh has spawned: laziness / unwillingness to travel.

People complain about being stitched up but it's easily preventable if you go and collect things in person. Good excuse for a road trip in the Corrado, no? :D

Paypal seem to promise total security and buyer / seller protection, but where is the evidence? I must hear of 10 complaints about zero protection for every 1 case where it's worked for someone. And I never get scam emails from my banks, only PayPal. PayPal to me has removed hard cash from this world and your money is being sat on by PayPal to earn them interest, so there are delays and fees associated in getting your money out the other end.

There was a case on a forum I use where an honest guy bought some headlights from ebay in good faith. Turns out they were junk. In order to get a decent connection on the lights for testing, the buyer scraped some green copper corrosion off the plug. When it came to an ebay dispute, ebay sided with the seller because the buyer had modified a "used" item away from it's original condition. This is what we're dealing with on ebaypal peeps. They are utter *******s only interested in profit. It's why I have absolutely nothing to do with either of them.

And, relax.....

Sump bolts are now a torx head and yep, they're the same length and fine to use on the 12V.

Synthetic oils have far superior thermal and oxidative stability and they leave engines virtually varnish,

deposit and sludge-free.

BMW and VAG engines on Longlife service intervals are usually caked in varnish internally :D Whilst fully synthetics are better than mineral oils in this respect, there's no escaping the fact that oil sat in the sump (choked with blow-by desposits) for 15-20K miles is going to stain the insides, no matter what. I've seen it in R32s, 1.8Ts, TFSIs, 330is et al.

It doesn't do them any harm though, so clearly the engine tolerances were designed around castrol longlife oils from the outset. I've stripped a 2.8 24v on longlife servicing at 140K miles old and it looked like it had been creosoted inside, but there was no valve guide wear and the bores were well within tolerance.

If these engines can tolerate up to 20K service intervals, then 6K intervals really would give you an engine for life...probably!

Sounds like a duff yellow sender to me. It controls both the aux pump and the dash gauge. You really need VAG-COM to verify the actual temp it's running at before throwing parts at it.

ha ha ha well upon reading this thread i wish i knew spanish ;) lol

 

welcome!

I'm guessing Endegee lived or worked in Madrid and our newbie is from Seville ;)

that guy used to be a member on here - badboyhiggins? was banned for selling overpriced crap and giving abuse to anyone with a complaint from memory..

Aye! People with his attitude are not long for this forum :D

Worse still, some idiot will pay him the £75 for a plastic box full of mummified bandages!

It drives the oil pump. There are bearings on that shaft that could make a noise, but it's not common.

White spirits? Girl :D

Crack open the manly glue thinners and do it in a tenth of the time!

Trouble is, it's difficult buying chemicals these days because of all the junkie glue sniffers.

You'll be OK with 15psi on 9:1. Supers don't dump their boost into the engine in one great lump like turbos do but if you go over 15psi, I'd recommend 8.5:1.

I think I must have missed you mentioning a new engine, but are you getting one built up with forged pistons? If a new engine is in the pipeline anyway, go on, whack the boost up, you know you want to :D If you're currently not intercooled, you shouldn't be losing any boost but yep, the schimmel chargecooler is extremely free flowing. Not even half a psi pressure drop.

Have a look on the VR6OC forum as I know folk tend to sell engine parts on there quite frequently.

I do miss playing with the Corrado yeah. It was so easy to work on! But after the turbo and then the R32 engine, it was definitely time to move on and yep, I'm over them now :D Can you believe I've only seen one Corrado since I sold mine in September?!! Super rare cars!

Having said that, I've also only seen 1 MK4 R32 on the roads in 3 months! Plenty of MK5 Rs and like Corrado owners, there's mutual respect shown, which is nice and enhances the ownership a bit doesn't it.

No worries mate, I'm always around, lurking, to assist with any technical Qs :D

Welcome to the forum btw Enzo and thanks for sharing your knowledge :D

GKN from GSF.

GKN also make beefed up ones for modified cars, which might be worth consideration given the extra torque you are putting through them.

You can buy a rebuild kit from VW for the ZF VR6 rack. A couple of bearings, some seals and things. I paid £80 for it a few years ago. I never fitted it, so I can't tell you what's involved I'm afraid.

It's all refurbishers usually do, and then spray it black. The actual rack and pinion themselves rarely wear to a very noticable degree, unless it's a 200K mile old one. What happens in most case is a seal goes. Usually on the offside. The gaiter will slowly fill up with PAS fluid when this happens, so keep an eye on your fluid level and see if your steering is heavier in one direction than the other.