Kevin Bacon

Murray and Henman remind me of Jensen Button and Coulthard. In their respective sport for years but rarely ever seem to win.

Good on the Murray Mint though. He's worked hard for it, even if he did look like a Zombie compared to Djockovic.

It's all about colour matching mate. The roof and rear panel rarely ever rot on these cars, it's mostly bottoms of the doors, under the front screen, wings and behind petrol flap. You can opt out of having the roof and rear done but when you walk round the car, the colour differences might be more apparent than you'd like.

Why not just treat the rust to stop it spreading, then (and this will make you baulk), plasti dip the whole car a different colour? :D

I know what you're thinking, but think of it as just a temporary measure. It's easily removable, easy to apply and inexpensive.

Youtube it mate.

It started out as garish colour changing for attention seekers, but there's loads of colours available now and in even gloss finish.

do you need the brake switch etc wired in on the 3.2's?

The ECU needs to see the brake pedal switch to disengage the Haldex but I don't know what your ECU man did to code this out. I believe the ME7 is as simple as changing a byte to tell it has the function or not, but in many cases the ECU still needs to 'see' a respective relay (across the trigger side) for the function or it doesn't like it. For instance, if you don't have the SAI relay connected, you don't get any long term lambda trims.

3.2s also need things like chassis angle sensors (Xenon alignment) and steering wheel angle (ESP) coding out.

The large oil hole under the timing chain gears is only on the 2.8 (AAA) head - pretty sure they mix and match otherwise, but as above it has to have a matching set of bearing caps...

It might be an OBD2 head, in which case the EGR port would need to be blocked off it's got one. But yeah, 2.8 heads work fine on the ABV block!

This is why i am glad mine is running DTA i have not got the issues other R32 conversion's have keep at it mate :thumbleft:

+1

24Vs are very different when run by standalones :D

There is. You leave the motor connected to the loom but not bolted to the frame, then operate the full closure. The motor will then move to the park position.

RE greasing, only use VAG grease or this stuff which is specifically for sunroofs - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Liqui-Moly-3312-Silicon-Grease-Clear/dp/B00295DBQE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1372673573&sr=8-10&keywords=silicone+grease

The reason for this special grease is it stops the delicate black anodised layer wearing off. This was very weak / thin in Corrado roofs and every one I've seen where it's worn off has been very slow and the plastic feet on the water plate guides over heat and start binding.

The RS4 has a shed load of grunt at 2K! Very nice torque curve that

FWIW, my standard VR6 when I got it all those years ago used to show 114 for oil temp sat at 80, so yours isn't that bad tbh.

The 24V thread has ballooned recently because more members are doing it and going through the usual pre and post installation blues :D

And yes, Corrados are way too slow these days. Christ, I was following a boggo standard base spec Corsa the other day (current shape) in my R32 and I had to give it more throttle than expected to keep up with it! Pretty mundane cars are getting pretty darn quick these days and stock valvers and VR6s are just left floundering against modern torque curves.

Agree with Jon. Mine's the same. You lose the lovely VR sound with the 24v too...

Agreed, but what you lose in intake roar you gain in exhaust note with the 24Vs :D

Can't beat a 12V on full chat though. Such a lovely noise and completely in character with the car

also, it's got a good amount of pull lower down the rev range(like I expected) compared to the VR6 but semms to hesitate a bit at around 4K and above, (doesn't pull like the vr6 used to)

That's how all of the 24Vs are. What the VR6 used to do above 4000rpm, the 24Vs do it below. It's just a characteristic of variable intakes. 12Vs with a Schrick feel the same and in the old days, 268 cams were used to make the top end feel as lively as the bottom end, but there was still a very noticable dip at 4000rpm.

The only thing the AUE doesn't have which BDE 2.8 and the 3.2 does have is variable cam timing to beef up the torque curve after the intake switches plenums, but they do still feel like they flatten off, just not as much. AUE does have variable timing in as much as it's either on or off like the 20VT for emissions during warm up.

An OEM turbo setup for the 24V. Doesn't get much better than that!

Looks to have a very short runner intake, so the turbos must be pretty small.

23, turning 24 this year. I've got a friend in Birmingham who pays less than £700 for his MK2 Golf VR6 and he is 23. I do understand that it is down to postcodes, but probably the main reason is not being English and having EU license with a UK counterpart.

I think that's down to individual insurers. My missus is Czech and her premiums come out the same as mine on the comparison sites. I rang QuotemeHappy (who her car is covered by) just to make sure and they said their was no loading for the EU license or her country of origin.

They certainly do and I wish they were available in the aftermarket! Haven't compared track widths but the dampers are the main reason. I'm not sure C of G comes into play as much as it did with Corrado vs MK3 Golf as the Scirocco is still a big, bulky car and didn't look especially low to the ground to me!

Yeah it'll be fine side on. I had no problems with that on mine!

If it's a track car, then yeah it might be worth hooking up the temp sensor somewhere then!

Another idea I had was to tap another M10x1 hole in the filter housing for the temp sender. As it's such an old design of sensor (and very slow!), I think it being so far away from the housing in a t-peice skewed the readings too much.

MK5 pedal works with a MK4 but not the other way round. I know this because the MK5 ECU in my Corrado totally rejected the signal from my 4Motion pedal ;)

Good info on the DSG pedal.

The VR6 clocks need to see both pressure sensors. If there is a difference across the two sensors, it thinks the pressure has dropped and throws the buzzer into life. What I did was omit the temp sender (because I know R32 oil temp doesn't get hot enough to worry about from seeing it in a mate's MK5, sits at 95 most of the time) and used both ports in the filter housing for the pressure sensors.

But as I don't like functions that don't work, I did try a t piece for the oil temp sender and I was getting silly low readings, but at least the MFA didn't display --- :)

If I kept the car, I was going to shift the redundant oil condition sensor from the sump and replace it with a plate to house the oil temp sensor and get a more accurate reading.

It's only better than the Golf in terms of handling because of the standard fit ferrofluid dampers.

You'll never get 0.0 cam timing in blocks 208 and 209. I've done the chains on 2 now and they both ended up at -3 and -1 with 100% c0ck on mechanical timing. 2 other people I know of got the same. The intake VVT is never fully off anyway, so being at 0.0 statically isn't critical.

Block 91 in that link is for the Audi V6 so I'm not sure how relevant that is to the R32 tbh.

Did you fit both oil pressure senders to the R32 filter housing?

With pedals, diesel has different pots in it and automatic has a kick down switch and yep, a 4Motion pedal will work with any MK4 engine and MK4 and MK5 throttles. A MK4 pedal doesn't work on a MK5 engine.

Measuring blocks 208 and 209 for the cam timing. Should be in the range -3 and -1 but the allowable tolerance is +/- 8 deg.

For the other bits, when you open the Measuring blocks page in VCDS, there is a label file in the top corner that you click. Normally called something like 021 906 032 CP.txt. If you click this, a box opens up with a list of all the Measuring blocks and what they translate to.

If you have 'file not found' instead, we need to do some manual tweaking, but if you're using a BUB or BDB engine, it'll be there. BFH (MK4) is missing as it's only available in German, but there's a way round, which I had to do for my BFH motor.

Lovely inside but the outside does nothing for me what so ever!

Aye! Why is wood woodier than normal in the mornings??!

Wood is under rated as a diagnostic tool!

Youtube is blocked at work. I just gathered from the conversation it might have been along those lines!

Another clever thing with the K'egg system is pumping recovery. A big tank buried in the car somewhere storing the air pressure from over-running the engine, which can then be blasted back into the motor under acceleration. Very neat!

You mean knocking oak onto mahogany or pine onto cedar? If it's a walnut onto birch noise, get a new engine mate!

Well, the VR6 has a repetoire of noises to call upon. Piston slap, small end knock, oil pump whine, injector tick, worn chain noise and cam / tappet noise.

None of them are serious. More of an irritation than a significant problem. At 200K, I'd be inclinded to replacing it with a younger one anyway, or rebuilding.

At 200K

No it's staying, all useful info!

Then stop whinging about noises and accept it for what it is ;)