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buttles

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Posts posted by buttles


  1. Sounds the same as mine......plastic cable guide at the top of the of the mech had cracked allowing the cable to slip down enough to stop it pulling the window all the way up. Is it noisy? Did a bodge repair which lasted a year or so before I had to change the whole mech unit.$$$$!


  2. Sounds like you have sorted it. Any new components will take a while to bed in and might cause a little drag in the brakes causing the 'ssss'. Just the pad rubbing on the disk. There will be no gap between the pads and the disk.


  3. Quite a few insurance companys don't recognise it anymore as a Thatcham 1. I have one and Admiral seem to be the only mainstream company that will take it without any recent check. Luckily they are the cheapest for me :) The factory fit didn't include the battery backup siren under the bonnet, had to get it fitted later to make it Thatcham 1.


  4. There is no 'returning' pressure as such. When you take your foot off the pedal the pressure dissipates back up through the master cylinder. The pistons then just sit where they are, not providing any force against the pads. The rear brakes also have the hand brake mechanism which through a cam type setup internally push the piston out when you pull up on the handbrake. As you have seen, when you move the lever on the end of the calliper the piston comes out and stayes out. That is normal as there is no disc and pads to stop the piston coming out. When people talk of seizing callipers it is the piston not being allowed to move back a little by the mechanical mechanism which causes the pads to be kept against the disc. Internal corrosion can also have the same effect by jamming the piston. Hope all that is not too full of bull!! Good luck.....


  5. Yup, thats them! They hold the lock to the steering stem. You tighten them up 'till the hex snaps off leaving a thief proof lock. The ignition switch electric part retaining screw on my VR was impossible to get to in situ. Had to get those bolts undone first. Well done :D


  6. Can't see the picture but if they are the shear bolts then you did very well to change the ignition switch without removing the old ones first!! I found the easyest way to remove them was to hacksaw a slot in them to use a screwdriver. They shear at a fairly low torque.


  7. An M reg should be with a coilpack. The plug leads come out of a rectangular box bolted on the nearside of the engine. GSF price is £115+vat. Pt No 92526. How do you know you need one? If your camber is very out and i mean very, the top of the wheel will look to be in a different place compared to the other wheel.


  8. Have got hold of a pair of 288 calipers and carriers so was pricing up the extra to upgrade to 312. If 280 was a '0' and the 312 was a '10' where would you rate the 288 setup? Hope that makes sense! All I really want is a better pedal feel and brakes that work better at higher speed without having to stand on the pedal.


  9. The 312 calipers are only a few mm wider than the 280 ones in terms of wheel clearance, indeed they fit behind standard 15s with 288 discs and don't forget the 312 discs afford you 6mm more wheel clearance over standard anyway.

     

    Thanks Kev. I was more worried by the circumferance rather than the spoke clearance, ei. distance from the hub centre to the inside of the wheel? Thanks for the promotion by the way!!

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