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buttles

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Posts posted by buttles


  1. Had this a while ago and a commonish problem with the fuel pipe as it comes up into the engine bay and joins onto the rubber pipes that go around the engine. (below the Brake master cylinder). Leave the car overnight and look there just after you start the engine. You will need a torch. Mine pi$$ed out petrol which ran back down under the car. Stop the engine, restart and no leak!! The pressure seems to seal the system. I just put a second clip on the leaky pipe and been fine for 6 years now.


  2. Hi veedub16v, not hugely helpful but if you are still stuck and can get hold of a 2x2 to obd2 converter then I am only over in Redhill. They are only about £10. Have you cleaned the sensor rotors (fronts anyway) they get fouled up a bit? Failing that Dave Mir in Dorking has the VW tool. He will probably charge you a bit for reading the ecu. I can pm you his No. Neil


  3. You really need to get Vag-Com up and running again. No. 1 could be the ECU power relay. Engine cuts out for no reason and won't start for a while. No. 2 sounds like the classic Cam Position Sensor. The relay is a cheap fix and worth cxing anyway. The Cam sensor is about £60 from dealer. Vag-com will show both if there is a fault. Then there is the one million other things it could be!! Neil


  4. If anyone has a moment or if they know, in what increments does the TPS go up in the ECU looking at VAG-COM? Mine starts at 13.3 and goes up to 93.6 in 0.4 steps. Hope that makes some sense!! No TPS fault showing. Just want to count the sensor out looking for a small snag. Thanks in advance...............


  5. Oil and coolant temps seem a bit close together. Oil about right. Blue sender does ECU and yellow does water gauge. Both senders cheapish. Compare the gauge and ECU temp on VAG-COM when up to temp if possible. Bottom hose on rad should stay cold until thermostat opens around 80c then get hot rapidly. There is loads on this stuff in the searches. Enjoy!


  6. It's in the knowledge base. Scroll down to the V's and it's there. Never sure if it's really needed in it's entirety. Just as long as you let idle for a bit until the tickover is stable and a few full throttle bursts (WOT) Seems to do it's own thing by itself otherwise. If there is a good reason for the VAG-COM bit let me know! Off for a pint. No, not Tetleys.


  7. The firmly bit is the hardened seals. New ones with a bit of oil slip in much easier. The tip of the injector also has to align with a guide inside the manifold. Make sure that bit is the same diameter as the old one. If you have to take out the seat I think they unscrew. If you have a photo of how they are sitting that would help


  8. The relay sockets have fuses in them as well. You can access them with the glove box in but it is much easier with it out and also it is quite easy to break the relay mounting. Can't remember which ones are for the ABS. Two I know, one for the pump and one for the system. Good luck


  9. ER? The way I understand it is Vince didn't produce the Kit. He took a big risk in taking on the mess that ensued. Those that bought the VF kit after reading Kev's lengthy missiv should have been very sure about what they were embarking on. I for one was prepared for a few problems. VF should be your first port of call if things didn't go according to plan.


  10. Antera309, sorry no pictures at the moment. Just to say it's fairly natural how the filter and MAF sit. Filter and maf attached, the filter points fowards into the bumper area. The MAF is now directly under the inlet to the charger. This is where the flexi tubing comes in. Route it down, back then down and foward to attach to the exit of the MAF. I used some poly foam wrapped in bodge tape to make a support against the crossmember mount which is just above the MAF. If you have stiff front mount then the rubbing shouldn't be too much of an issue. The wheel arch front panel has a moulding on it which I had to cut off to stop cutting into the tubing. They say a picture is worth................... :wink:

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