Jump to content

ABV-VR6

Legacy Donators
  • Content Count

    105
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About ABV-VR6

  • Rank
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆
  • Birthday 08/16/1975

Converted

  • Location
    West Coast BC

Converted

  • Plus One
    On

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks good to know, thanks for sharing your experience. I was starting to consider this option but now I'll keep it to Mk3 DE. Cheers!
  2. Oh really? That could be an interesting setup for sure!
  3. Fantastic! Thanks for your help on this, much appreciated mate!
  4. Then if it's what it is and I think you're right about this, as per another comment on this tread, maybe upgrading to the mk4 refurbish kit would be a good idea to eliminate the problem of the pistons rusting out... Thanks for the link as well!
  5. Yes definitely a good idea! Thanks for helping me out again!
  6. Yes that's what I read too, Corrado have 22mm and DE have 25mm. Plus it's slightly bigger as well by like a centimeter. Technically the piston is larger as well but I can't confirm that yet as they are still on the car. Cheers!
  7. Ok I just measured everything. The DE disc is 288mm diameter, 25mm wide and the piston itself is 54mm just like it's written on the calipers. Now looking at my Corrado front calipers, they're definitely smaller looking and there's no 54 written on them and I have an euro ABV Corrado as well.
  8. I just measured the rotors the Passat I dismantled and they are like 288mm
  9. Alright I'm back! What a surprise reading all the posts this morning! You guys are fantastic helps, really appreciate all of it, thanks! Like it was mentioned, It's confusing and kind of hard to find just the piston itself. I do think 731 and 732 are just to show left and right like Keyo was saying. I think it was smart to do the research from the caliper part number, I'll keep that in mind for next time... Dox was saying stock are 54 as well but on the thread I've read it's saying the piston is larger on the DE calipers? Here's a copy of the information discussed in the thread I've read: Option 3 is the DE brake Option 1: Pad, Rotor, Braided lines, new OE fluid Pluses: -Easiest, possibly most cost effective setup. -You do not need to purchase new calipers. -Unless you have concerns about cooking your brakes (extensive track work), plain rotors are plenty. -Slotted rotors are OK. Drilled rotors are touch-and-go. Ensure that the drilled rotor you are buying is drilled during the casting process, not after, which increases the likelihood of cracking. In most cases, plain rotors are plenty for a street car. -Braided steel lines are a must to increase pedal feel and braking effectiveness. Rubber lines expand and contract with the increase in fluid pressure, meaning not all of your pedal work is transferred to the caliper. -You'll be hard pressed to cook OE fluid in anything but the most extreme conditions. Use it and never have to worry about the chemical compounds within your fluid. Minuses: -There aren't any. Option 2: Girling G60 brake calipers from an Audi 90 Pluses: -A simple cost effective upgrade. -The calipers are cheap from a pick-n-pull yard and sometimes you can even get them free. Add a couple shims, the appropriate pads and it is a bolt-on affair. -Calipers are 2-piston items and as such have better clamping force than stock single-piston calipers. Minuses: -They are heavy. Heavier than stock. -You get an increase in clamping force at the expense of increased weight. -Some Wheels will not clear calipers (et dependent) Detailed link to part numbers: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a...liper-swap.htm Option 3: 11.3”/Driver's Edition upgrade – found on all VR6-equipped VWs from 1996 to 1999.5 Pluses: -The caliper features a larger piston and a larger pad. -Rotors are not only larger in diameter (0.3”), but also 3mm thicker. -Secure an entire spindle from a any VR6-equipped VW from the above years and you have everything you need to bolt it on. -Larger and thicker rotor means increased thermal capacity. -Larger piston means greater clamping force. Larger pad means greater swept area. -Increased lever arm (distance from hub to caliper) means a theoretical increase braking feel and less work to accomplish same braking performance – less pedal pressure and less fluid transfer. -This setup puts you only a caliper carrier/spacers and larger rotor away from Option 4 (below). Minuses: -The entire setup will weigh more than stock, increases your unsprung weight which detracts from handling. On the flip side, this is an OE upgrade, so all weight increases are within OE tolerances. -Requires new front brake lines Option 4: 12.3”/1st gen Audi TT/GTI 20th Anniversary/1.8T GLI/GTI 337 upgrade Pluses: -Same calipers & pads as Option 3 – simple, straight forward upgrade from 11.3”. -Substantially larger 12.3” rotor. Same thickness as 11.3” upgrade, but now 1.3” larger in diameter. -Increased lever arm (distance from hub to caliper) means a theoretical increase braking feel and less work to accomplish same braking performance – less pedal pressure and less fluid transfer. -Larger rotor means increased thermal capacity, making this setup very competitive in virtually any track application with the right pads. -To cut down on weight, ECS sells a 2-piece replica rotor with aluminum hats. Minuses: -16” wheels are required. -Standard replacement rotors weigh a lot more than stock or 11.3” items. -Requires 1st Gen Audi TT carriers & washers -ECS 2-piece rotors are not cheap at $600/pair. Option 5: Mk4 R32 brake upgrade. Pluses: -One of the best factory braking set-ups ever produced by VW, this side of multi-piston/ceramic. -Large two-piston calipers mean increased clamping force & pad swept area -13.1” rotors mean increased lever arm -ECS Tuning sells 2-piece variations on rotors Minuses: -Very heavy, heavier than any other factory component upgrade -Requires 17” wheels. Some will not clear depending on spoke design. -Requires caliper carrier spacer -Requires new brake lines Option 6: Wilwood Dynalite 11” kit Pluses: -Light, aluminum 4-piston calipers. -Uses factory 11” rotors. Substantial increase in clamping force from four pistons. With proper pads, higher resistance to fade versus any other 11” option. Minuses: -Wilwood supplied Q-pads require a lot of heat to get up to operating temperature. -Calipers are substantially wider than stock – will clear 15” wheels radially, but may require 5mm spacer depending on spoke design. -Caliper pistons do not have dust boots – caliper rebuild is required every 10k to 15k miles or seasonally. -Wilwood BP20 pads are ideal for autocross and street driving, but will reduced rotor life to 10k miles. -Wilwood is an American company, using SAE fittings – adapters are required to connect Wilwood braided lines to factory hardline, creating point of possible fatigue if not installed correctly. Some suppliers will NOT sell you carrier adaptors separately from calipers. Option 6: Wilwood Dynalite 12.19”/13” kits Pluses: -Increased lever arm, increased thermal capacity, rotors are either two-piece or one-piece depending on supplier. -Wilwood retailers/suppliers can get you thicker rotors and associated calipers, further increasing your thermal capacity. Minuses: -Same as Option 5. -12.19” should fit most 16” wheels, 13” kit requires 17” wheels. Pay attention to spoke design as calipers are wider/thicker than stock, 5mm spacers may be needed. -Rotors need to sourced from a Wilwood supplier/retailer. Sizing and thickness is proprietary to Wilwood. Rotor rings (for two-piece applications) are more expensive, as are one-piece rotors. Option 7: ECS Tuning/Porsche Boxster Calipers Pluses: -Larger, 4-piston Porsche Boxster Brembo Calipers. -Bolts on to 12.3” Audi TT rotors -Larger pistons, larger pads means increased clamping force and swept area. -Brembo calipers are metric – line connections are straight forward. -Calipers say “Porsche” on them. -Should work with most 16” wheels. Minuses: -Larger rotors means increased weight. -Calipers weigh more than most factory upgrades. -Pricey when new. -Substantially larger caliper means greater portion of fluid is being used; factory 22mm master cylinder may not be able to handle increased fluid transfer. -May require 17” wheels or larger spacers on 16” wheels. -They say “Porsche” on them. Option 8: Brembo Gran Turismo kit Pluses: -Made by one of the most respected manufacturers in the braking industry -Proper fit is virtually guranteed -Sold through TireRack, another well-respected company -Multiple caliper color choices -They say “Brembo” on them Minuses: -Pricey -Possible brake master cylinder fatigue -Requires 17” wheels -Limited supply Option 9: Custom Wilwood/StopTec kits Pluses: -Several suppliers available -Custom built to fit your car -Full catalog of Wilwood calipers and rotors -Some suppliers will do the necessary math to ensure you are not taxing the brake master cylinder Minuses: -Pricey -Can take months to build proper kit -Not all suppliers execute your order to the same standard
  10. Yes mate, I totally agree with you there. Ebay is not reliable, etka don't show just the pistons, maybe they were just ment to be fully refurbished... I was thinking... Do you think mine are silver because they were on a passat but the MK3 GTI got the red version because of the GTI trend to be red? At this point int I'm starting to think that maybe I should just get new calipers and call it a day if it's that hard to find parts. I have the knuckles so the hardest to get I have already... Thanks a lot your time to both of you!
  11. All I can see on the calipers is 731 on one and 732 on the other one. Both ATE 54 DE VW. both have stamped 5345 as well on the calipers. On the knuckles one has DE GER 255 and the other one is DE CDP 256
  12. I'll go check right now to see what I have, give me 10 minutes! Cheers
  13. I read a post on vortex about all the front brake upgrades for the Corrado long time ago. It was written that any passat B4 VR6 were equipped with DE brake which was 11.3 instead of the 11 the Corrado came with. The difference in disc size is not much, the big difference was in the size of the piston and the DE were a good cost effective oem upgrade. All that is needed was calipers, carriers and knuckles. Bolt straight on. Am I wrong? What's starting to make me doubting myself now is they are DE brake as per the stamp on them but they are not red? Too early late 1996? Discs are 11. 3 tough. Anyways, thank you so much for the eBay link, looks like it is what I need. But I'll be sure I have the right thing first before buying I guess!?
  14. Yes it's the front! Discs are 11-3/8" so I guess 11.3 like they called them. Both calipers and knuckles have DE on them
×
×
  • Create New...