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ABV-VR6

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About ABV-VR6

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    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆
  • Birthday 08/16/1975

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    West Coast BC

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  1. This luck with these speedy fixes can’t last 😖🤣😂. It would be nice not to have any for a while though🤣😂🤣 I know eh! You're on a pretty good streak with your fixes right now!! Good for you and well deserved! Good to know both passenger and driver side are interchangeable too.. Cheers!
  2. No worries mate! I think now both versions (one or two wires) have been covered so you should be golden when it's your time to make it happen.
  3. Thanks so much mate for all that explanation and pictures, super appreciated! It seems like all newer horns have both wires just like yours and mine being an old Italvolanti Corsa has just the one. I won't install the silver ring and plug the black wire from the boss directly to the horns one. And yes, you must be right, it's got to be self grounded. Thank you for showing me the brass disc, now I'm sure that it was the right thing to do by forcing it down to be flush. Thanks a lot, cheers!
  4. There's nothing more, it's wrapped in leather and nothing more than one wire coming from each horn buttons, then they are all cramped together with that male connector.
  5. That is a very good idea. So I did what you suggested and no changes if I press the horn button or not so I guess for conclusion, it's not self grounded within the steering wheel...
  6. What do you mean mate by brass bit in the plastic housing? The metal disc with the male tab, I figured it is for the ground but I don't have any coming from the steering wheel. That's where the confusion is coming from, usually the wire from the boss connects to the positive from the horn, then negative to that ring. But I only have one wire?
  7. Ok, I'll try to make my questions clearer then... 1) How do you plug the steering wheel when the horn only has one wire? All horns I've looked at comes with 2 wires, one for the ground and a 12V. If I have only one wire, should I deduct the horns are self grounded within the steering wheel? 2) If I install the ring provided with the MOMO Boss, I end up with 2 male terminals but I only have one female terminal. So I don't install it then? 3) I don't have an engine or power in the car now so I don't know what is what. I never installed an aftermarket wheel before either.
  8. Maybe my question is not that stupid then!? I'll post on feck book group to see if I get an answer, cheers!
  9. I feel borderline stupid for asking this and I did a bunch of searches on the internet before and I just can't find anything with the same setup that I have. I don't know how to properly hook things up... The hub boss has one wire with a female terminal. My steering wheel 4 horns buttons are bridged into one wire with a male terminal. Logics wants me to hook these 2 together but don't I need a ground of some sort? And then there's the silver ring that came with the boss, looks like it goes between the steering wheel and the hub boss but since it's a male connector and there's only one then something is missing because I can't hook up my horns this way. Lastly do the brass part underneath the hub boss showed in the picture needs to be pressed in a little, is this normal? Because it didn't wanted to go in without mild persuasion... Thanks a lot in advance, much appreciated!
  10. That's fantastic news mate! Very happy to hear that you have been able to make it feel like brand new again. And it's nice too, when mostly it cost just time 🍻. Do you have an oil catch can on your system to purge some of that oil? Never heard of the 1.8t pcv valve, does it fit without modification? Cheers!
  11. Got mine from Sprinter too, I'm happy with it! I think it's maxxg60 on ebay his user name.
  12. Thanks to both of you! I investigated the white wire which indeed looked narrow in my picture. But it was just the angle and I guess dirt that made it look like it. What I've found is : PIN1 : red & white is the power coming from the fuel pump relay. PIN2 : brown and goes to ECU 12 (sensor 1 heater ground). PIN3 : yellow goes to ECU 42 (sensor one ground and shared for both sensors late 94+). PIN4 : white to ECU 20 (sensor 1 ground). So if my broken wire is a ground, then it should definitely be fixed. Funny thing is, there was no red lights at all when I last parked the car. You would think a lambda sensor is sensitive to that. I will fix it for sure, I was just curious as why the previous owner had not fixed it, seems like there was an attempt but then why adding an extra wire to just put tape at the end of it? I guess I'll never know!
  13. Today while working on my car, I was inspecting my wiring before doing a clean up and noticed that the wiring for my o2 sensor had a wire broken. The yellow one at position 3 looks like it was ripped off the connector. A piece of wire was solder to it but instead of rewiring to the connector it was left aside with electrical tape at the end. So I'm wondering, on a VR6 engine do all four wires are usually connected, probably right? What would be the reason of cutting and isolating the yellow wire then? Thank you!
  14. Well, I've done it... ABV 1 / Crocodile 0 Im going to put this out there for future reference as I combined two techniques and with it, I made happen the last 3 bushings in less than 10 minutes compared to the 20/30 minutes for the first one. As Keyo suggested, securing the engine carrier in a vise is a must. Frozen bushings were not a good idea as you want them more malleable so they are easier to work with at room temperature. What I struggled with, is that the more grease the better but then you just fight with the bushing going left when or press right and vice versa. Ended up using two flat head and a slippage while doing so could have hurt... Anyways it worked that way but it was still a struggle. Here's my plan B that worked like a charm. Seriously, less than 10 minutes all 3 were in. I had a left over threaded rod from the rear beam bushing, about 30cm long. A 30 and a 60mm socket. The problem with my original jig was that I was trying to press in the bushing. This time, I inverted it so I was pulling the bushing in. I pulled it in until one part of the lip went through. If you put too much pressure it won't have enough space to wiggle itself in so there's a balance to respect. Anyways, that kept a constant pressure on the bushing. Then I turned the bushing until the bulging part was on top just to be in a better position to push. With the pressure on, there was no more slippage or struggle while pushing the bulging part in with my fat flat head (with masking tape on it as mentioned). Hopefully the picture shows what I'm trying to explain. I snapped it just before pushing on the bulging top part. Thanks for the support, cheers!
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