VEEDUBBED

Dubcharged,yes,the meter cycles normally when idleing hot or cold,i think maybe the lamda sensor may be faulty.

I also checked the full throttle switch with the engine idleing,it works because the car bogs,but it certainly does not work at full throttle,only when i lift my foot off the accelerator pedal very slightly,sometimes the meter goes rich.

Right,i drove my finished corrado today for about 140 kms,just to re-fresh,my engine is running a standard out of the packet 2.0 9A 16v mill with a G-charger,no mods exept a 'KR'engine inlet cam,C/R is original,as is exhaust,cam timing,timing,etc,ECU,chip,pulley,injectors are all OE G60.

The engine has this damm annoying problem,when at normal operating temp.,and when i give the car full throttle/load the narrow band air fuel ratio meter goes lean when it should go rich(full throttle switch?),well,i notice that the red leds are all lean and the car starts to misfire and hesitate which proved quite dangerous today while overtaking...,no amount of throttle movement sends the car rich,1 thing i tried was stopping the car for a few miniuts and letting it cool down,this worked in that the meter worked again untill the next overtaking move when it started playing up again.

Lambda sensor maybe?,when this fault appears,the leds never move from red

any help is appriciated,cheers all,Andrew.

I'm finishing mine,going from a Turbo 16 1.8 to a 9A G60.16v is quite a change in preformance,i find the 9A engine rather noisy with the charger especially when the car's idleing,horrible whistle/drone...

Yeah,it fits 'cos i've done the same thing,the VR's gearbox mount is also a little stronger.

Which brings us up neatly to VEEDUBBED"S corrado graveyard,i've got a g60 'box already stripped WAITING for YOU to make an offer on...code='ATL''90 02A,dont like that 1?,i've got a whole '92 'CBA' G60 ' box aswell.

Loads,watch out when you remove 5th gear cogs/syncros,teeth are VERY easy to chip,don't forget the hidden casing bolt buried in between the 5th gear,casings can be positive bastids to split due to Vw's concreat like sealer,always re-new gear train circlips but be carefull because some are different thickness,measure 5th gear's pre-load before loosening the selector fork,when re-build time comes,you'll know how many mm's is needed,differential shims are real nightmares to remove without damaging the casings as is the input shaft's conical bearing,always re-new the small rubber 'o'rings fitted to the output shaft's fixing studs and all gaskits,seams obvios but you'd be amazed how many so-called mechanics save money here...,hope that helps,good luck.

I've got some spare pistons if you decide to re-build,that'sthe first time i've seen damage like that to stout G60 pistons,if your really pushing boost the first thing to go is the ring lands,unusual...

Standard pulley for now,i was thinking the same thing about the red top injectors,tell you what,let me know how much those injectors+mapped chip and postage will cost and that should settle the running issues, 1 thing that's very important is the rev limit,i need it raised to 7500 rpm,no worries about blowin the compressor as i've got 2 spare.

Hi dubcharged,i've been looking for you mate,i've had no luck getting any info on those obscure Delta IAW injectors,did you have any luck?,i'm thinking of phoning J,walley lancia down in the UK and asking them if they know how many ccs the delta injectors produce.

It's ironic that an Italian produced car has so little info available even here in Rome were there are still quite a few deltas running.

I still have a set of green top G60 bosch OE injectors,what do you think dubcharged?,as an emergency stop gap will those injectors be okay untill i get my chip from you?,thanks,Andrew.

I've got a problem on my 9A motored G60 engine,i can't get the engine to run stoich at idle,the engines always rich,lamba narrow band is always pegged on green even when idleing,the car starts perfectly,ecu hose is 1 meter long,black with yellow stripe,blue cts's ok,timing spot on,fuel pressure 3 bar at idle,now turned down to 2.6 bar,ditto,co pots set at 1600ohms which is theoreticly mega lean...no,still pumps out bloody black smoke,injectors are off a Lancia delta integrale,beige top weber marelli types that i can find NO info at all on those damm injectors,and i live in Italy...original digifant G60 ecu+eeprom.

I've run out of ideas,any suggestions????

The 2.9 'ABV' VR6 engined corrados have at least 10 different ratio codes,just like the G60 model,'ATA','CBA','ATN','ATL','AYL'...VR6,'CDM(Golf 2.8),'CCM',export codes,Candian codes,American codes,same ratios but different R/P....

I've got a spare moddied Jetta TD turbo manifold that i used on my 1st G60 corrado,with a garret T3 turbo the preformance difference was quite something.

Let me know if you need it.

Hi Dave,yep,99% sure that's a 'PG',G60 p.steering pump,you can tell the difference because the other engine's pumps have a longer shaft,the pump i sent you looks the same but my 1 was much cleaner and also contained the rear mounting alloy bracket,if that pump ever gets back to me i'm gonna tell the post office employee to eat it...

That technically isn't the rain seal,the special black sealant actually seals against the water,the seal's probably just lifted of it's plastic guide,try removing the whole strip and using a thin smear of windsreen sealant,glue the seal back on using masking tape to hold it in position.

Volvo 740 turbo,saab 9000 turbo 16v,mercedes sprinter van,sierra cos.4x4,escort cosworth 4x4,sierra rs500(huge),porsche 944 turbo....

First use the shifter tower to select 1st gear,you'll know it's 1st by manually rotating the gearbox input shaft,the lower the gear selected,the easier the shaft will be to turn,or vice versa,then remove 5th gear's selector fork first checking the pre-load applied to the fork/syncro ring,the fork's got an elongated section with a star securing bolt,mark were it is now then when you re-build the pre-load's gonna be ok.

Manually select 5th by pushing down on the syncro,there you go,1 locked "box,1 more thing,those bolts holding the 5th gear cogs should be v.tight(Locktite...)-get a good quality star bit,don't use market stall garbage...

CAIOS,didn't i send you a PM about stripping down your G60 'box?,it might have been someone else..,watch out when you remove the 5th gear cogs,the teeth are VERY easy to chip and damage,also make sure you select the 2 right gears in order to lock the geartrains,i normally select 5th and 1st,by the way,i've got a spare G60 'ATA' code gearbox+R/P, already stripped out of the gearbox casings,let me know if you need it and we can do a deal.

The aerial hole on the corrado's roof is square,i thought about doing this but decided that IMO,it would look odd...

Hi Dave,the pump should be there max tuesday,it depends mostly on the Italian side of things,as usual,anyway, a few things to watch out for,the two bolts holding the pump to the alloy bracket(posted wirh pump) are bastids to re-fit,not so much the lower 1 as the 1 thats inside the flanged bit,fit the pump and alloy bracket at the same time otherwise you'll be swearing..,no need to remove pully,carefull when you tighten the short and long retaining bolts that hold the alloy bracket to the engine block,the block mounting lugs have been known to snap.

Have a go yourself and let me know the the result,remember to prime the pump with Vw's hyd oil,good luck.

Cracked front road spring??,it has happened...,anyone need any parts for LHD cars??,VEEDUBBED's the man.

I've never put back those 2 bolts,i once tried using 2 rocker cover 10mm bolts and studs from a fiat uno engine but was still a pain.

ME!,VEEDUBBED strikes again...,i've changed a few including a 'AGC" code VR6>16v 'AYN' 'box,i'm using a gearbox off a passat TDI'99 on my g60.16v for overall longer gears,i didn't gain much because the passat has 17 inch wheels as standard as opposed to 15 inch G60 wheels,the longest geared 'box available is the golf 3 tdi's 'box,exellent for powerfull turbocharged 16valvers.

The main problem concerns the removal of the 5th gear cluster,choose your puller carefully and operate it slowly,always checking that the pullers little feet don't pull on a geartooth,garanteed,it will break..,when selecting 2 gears simultainiosly in order to lock up the tranny to undo the 5th's retaining bolts,make sure you ingauge 5th and first gears or reverse,any thing higher and you risk breaking gear teeth because of the considerable force involved while your undoing the bolts.

Remember the hidden bolt inside the casing(Torx)

1 last thing,your going to have fun trying to get the bearing races out of the bellhousing,the mainshaft's conical bearing is pressed into a blind hole and there bastids to remove without damage.

Look me up if you need assistence,cheers,Andrew.

I don't know if you've ever built single handedly an engine like mine mate,one thing i can assure you is there's no room for the pipes inside the engine bay,2 ways around this,do like i've done and pass the charge pipe back into the G60's OE air box and open up the round hole at the bottom of the air box,and connect the air inlet to the throttle body,you could also re-route the pipe out into the wheelarch but it will foul the tyre on full lock also,i'm running a 120amp VR6 alternator.

In Rome your not even allowed to put a cone filter on a car,let alone put a 2.0 G60.16v engine in place of the original 1.8,8vG60engine,fine=380euro+impound+all the burocracy(Italian...) of getting my car back..

There ya go mate.

Engine is back in,starts first turn of key,oil pressure is 7 bar cold and 2 bar hot at idle,runs rich when hot and when idleing (OE chip),bodywork painted,dash is back in,ABS light remains on...,working in 35 degree heat+nats as big as small dragon flys...the joys of corrados...