VEEDUBBED

Strange,i've never encountered

any problems on other engines

when using 84mm pistons in 81mm

bores,and i'm talking about heavily boosted

small engines,the difference with,say, a fiat

uno turbo engine(1301cc) and a Vw 8v block

oil ways,coolant galleries is not a lot,their

quite similer.

One could say that about trying to turbocharge

an M3 bmw(new shape),that can't be done

because that engine's bores are maxed out already,one has to use the

2.8 block,not the 3.2.

Anyway,if you do go ahead and use these pistons

the most important thing is that the boring work

has to be done very accuratly prefrebly using a

heated deck plate.

I've checked the clearance

with a G60 metal head gasket,

there's plenty of saftey margin,

I used to fit Lancia Delta intergrale

pistons(84mm) into fiat uno turbo engines(81mm),

1301cc into 1500cc,using a normally asp.

delta head gasket with no probs,exept broken

gearboxes...

Struan,that you mate?,

if you do decide to fit the pistons

try to get hold of a deck plate,

heat the block/deckplate THEN

bore the block, plateau hone/flex hone etc,

You will have NO oil/blowby probs.

And the piston/rings will hold 1.8 bar turbo

press. no problem(with correct tuning..)

Drain the filter housing

first by un-doing the allen key'd

metal nut located in the center of

the black plastic filter housing,

this avoids oil spillin out the moment

you remove the canister,the metal nut

is usually quite tight.Also check it's small

rubber 'o'ring.

....Which reminds me,I still

have a spare gear box off my 4th

corrado left...

If the damage turns out to be un-economical

to repair consider my spare 'box off a 16valver

that i bought that has stood 8 years still,

66000km(32000miles?) on the clock.

I don't need it 'cos i used the engine to

turn into a 16vg60,so i used a TD 'box,I can assure you it's perfect.

Let me know if you need it and we can work something

out.Cheers,Andrew.

A friend of mine

had the exact same problem,

It turned out to be a defective

s.rack,the inner tie rod had developed

a fair amount of play thus resulting in

shaking/shimmiying of the s.wheel under

braking or accelerating.

Jack the car up and feel for play or clonking

noises,you could also try flushing out and

changing the green P.S fluid.Cheers,Andrew.

No mate,

I'm sending an entire VR

down to a forum user and he

needs to know what the weight

is so he can tell the courior service.

190 kilos seems a hell of a lot,

my old gsxr-1100 weighed 200kilos

and i sure as christ could'nt lift that...

The third post sounds like

a crock of shiyt(the mechanics theory),

why the hell would one have to change

an entire gearbox+clutch for a dodgy 5th syncro?...

Remember also that the 02A box's 5th selector fork

IS adjustable,try that first,if no joy,try using Redline

fully sinthetic 'box oil.

Hi all,

Can someone tell me

how much an 'ABV' VR6 engine weighs?,

I read somewere that it apparently weighed

190 kilos,well today i weighed all the internal

components,bare block,compleat head,cams,manifolds etc

and i got 101 kilos?,I'm not covinced....

Cheers,Andrew.

By all means try first

changing the power steering's

oil,i'm certain it'll make a difference.

Hopefull you rack's seals are ok.

And another thing

to consider if your doing

the ALL the work yourself,

you need PLENTY of spare

time,bits,small steel bushes,different

belts,loads of different pulleys,washers,

bolts,tensioners,were are you gonna put

the alternator?,i put it under the charger,BBM

and others put it at the back of the engine which,

IMHO is a stupid place to put such a heat sensative

component...Don't even think about doing this kind

of modifiction over the weekend by the roadside.

Cheers,Andrew

Hey rossy,

Make sure you didn't

use the wrong oil when /if you top up.

Only use Vw's hyd. oil,

If you need a pump,

i've got a couple of

spare ones left.Cheers,Andrew.

mistrall,PM sent mate.

The engine's a 9A

2 liter 16 valver,

I've got all the ISVs

off all models to try,

i was just curios.

The cluster is off a Corrado VR6.

Watch also the

make of rack,

TRW or ZF?, there may

be differences concerning ratios

between the two.

Also earlier types had 36 Splines

whilst later one's had 22 on the output

shaft.

Breather side.

Ok Chaps,

I managed to get some time off

from the girlfriend and get back

to serios stuff.

I checked the water pump rotation

by fitting a couple of spare hoses

and filling up the block and head with

water,span up the water pump using a

high speed drill and tested,I didn't like it

though,granted,the water did circulate but

much slower than if the pump was turning clockwise.

I was pretty much expecting something like that may happen

so i went down to my mates huge scrappy and found an

Audi 100,2 liter 16v and grabbed the A/C tensioner wheel

and yet again modified the G60's belt route.

I've also added an oil/air seperator lifted of a Alfa 164 turbo,

all 16valvers definatly need one of those,by the way i grabbed

that neat aux crank pulley off an Audi 80 1800 with A/C.

There is a possible way to get round the water pump turning

anti-clockwise,one could always add a VR6/Passat TD aux water pump

and plumb it in to the head's water in/outlet?,thus making up

for any circulation problems concerning the impeller's vanes orientation...

Sorry to hear that prices

are so dear even over in

england,get this,here in Rome,

a VR6 rack(special order) costs

only 520 euro...which reminds me,

I still have the pipe work left over

from that 29000km corrado VR6.

If anyone else has the misfortune to

break a hyd. pipe,let me know.

if any one

Carefull mate,

I had the same problem with

my rack,'90 models have more spleens

on the input shaft compared to '91 onwards

racks,later types have 22 splines were's '89/'90

ones had 36 splines.The two aren't interchangable

because you'd have to also change the two UJs that connect

the rack to the steering colum,only 320euros from stealer...

Hello all,

I'd like to know if i

have to use the black temp gauge(Digi G60)

sensor in order to operate the cluster

gauge or could i just use the original

9A's 16v sensor on the head?.

What about the 9A's original ISV,

can it be used in place of the G60's valve?.

Any help is always apriciated.

Cheers.

Don't understand "FUSE RELAY BOX NO 99"

do you mean relay or fuse?,I've got a VR6

fuse box, i'll have a look.

Your SHOUTING mate,turn OFF yer CAPS LOCK

Allright chaps,

You are Quite correct saying

that it's all go and no show,

I did that deliberatly because of

Italy's law stating that cars used

on public roads must not be modified

in ANY way,That means not even a

modified back box,strut brace etc.

So when i get pulled by the local old bill,

it looks crap and does'nt stand out,attracting un-wanted attention also a poss.~400 euro fine+impounding of car which

also intails more cash to get the car back...

The inter's off an Iveco Turbo daily van,

simuler to a Merc. sprinter.

Adie,let me know if you decide to turbo yer motor,

I'll help you out mate.Cheers,Andrew.

never judge a book by it's

cover...

Different angle.

Here's a couple of photos

of my existing 1800cc PG block Turbo 16 valver,

The 9A 16v.G60 engine is almost finished so it's

time to call it a day for this motor,seeing also that it's

got serios Ring/bore wear problems maybe because it was

running 1.8 bar turbo pressure almost constantly and with 8

injectors rigged up the fuel cons. was ridiculess...

I loved this motor,it was great when racing on rome's

long ring road at nite,waiting to see if something interesting

came up behind...flashing me to move over,Sierra,Escort cossies,

subaru imprezas,porsche carreras...

Anyway,i hope the 16v g60 mill will be ok,by the way,the

turbo lag was huge,but from half way through 3rd onwards it

went ballistic..Ciao.

Thanks,

If all goes well with the engine

and i like the engine i'll ditch the

G60 digifant and go stand alone or

Weber/IAW.