VEEDUBBED

How is it that the camshaft can still be turned 360 degrees?,whichever way you look at it some valves will remain fully open,the engines should have locked up but they didn't,and i was turning both crank and camshaft in different directions without the belt installed,strange...

Depends also on the cam's lift,on a normal 8v G60 the valve's won't touch,i know because once i tried turning over the engine whilst changing the cambelt and the crank turned freely with out hitting the open valves,also tried it on a scrapped Passat G60,same thing no interferance...

If you need a compleat head let me know because i've got one left,cheers,Andrew.

Strange,i don't remember the feed wire being blue/black,it might be the spare wire Vw included for a possible oil press gauge,the wire that terminates down near the distributer/RF sheild,the feed wire is red/yellow,but i'll check for you tomorow,what kind of terminal is on the end of that wire?,female or male spade?.

Driveshafts are different,their thinner,hubs are the same as G60 versions but brake disks are a little smaller,calipers are also different,be carefull,at first glance the brake disks/calipers look the same as G60 versions.

Hey Dubcharged,any chance you can get me a no-lag SNS eprom for my 9A 2.0 G60.16V corrado?,let me know what kind of details you require regarding the inj.system,engine etc,cheers,Andrew.

Tomorow morning i'm going to start re-building the gutted car,my car is kept in a barn with no water,toilet,electricity(cheap generator keeps packing up),i've changed three engines,stripped 4 different corrados+untold other work in 34 degree heat,i've had to put up with nats,moskitos,snakes,rats,spiders everywere,i've got a horrible chinese car jack that leaks oil and does'nt lift the car enough,there's no concreate on the floor,dust dirt+a few metal planks i managed to salvage in order to at least jack the car high enough to remove the entire exhaust(has any one tried to change an entire turbo exhaust single handed?),I don't care,i love my corrado and i'll never sell/scrap it.

Right then,my G60.16valver has just been re-sprayed,i totally stripped the car just leaing the engine attached in order to get the car into the paint oven,i also removed all the car's glass.

The body shop repaired a big dent in the left hand sill,welded up the rear 'corrado' badge holes+the 'Vw' badge,they also repaired a dented front wing,sprayed the roof,rear quarter panels,inside door,boot shuts and filled a small dent created by myself whilst removing the rear hatch single handedly and having the bloody thing collapse on my bonze...,the rebuilding of the entire car is my job,the body shop billed me 850euro,and the job was very well done,have i been done or is that a good price??,comments please,cheers,Andrew.

I've done that mod when i first bought my g60,i used a jetta TD manifold,kkk24 turbo off an Audi 5000 5cyl engine,made up an extra take off for the wastegate,heavily shaved the G60 inlet manifold,fitted bigger injectors,made up a custom down pipe,oil feed,sump mods,water hoses to and from turbo,oil catch tank etc,preformance was quite good,got fed up with the small turbo,added a Garret T3/4,got fed up,added a 16v head,bigger intercooler,injectors,ecu.....,like rolling a snow ball down a snowy bank...

If you can,try choosing a double pass intercooler over a single pass one,they work better IMO.

Have you counted the visable threads on the steering rack's arms?,the threads should be more or less equal on both sides,try disconecting both tie rods then remove the steering wheel and center it,after sorting the tie rod ends for correct/equal length your steering should be more or less set-up,obviosly get the front tracking/alignment checked after.

Carefull about the 4x4 cosworth intercooler,the outlets won't clear the OE G60's radiator,i've got an iveco daily TD van intercooler on my G60.16,very similer to the Mercedes sprinter unit but needs a few slam panel mods to fit.

Lancia delta evo's intercoolers exellent if you own a turbo 16 with a small radiator otherwise there's no room,saab 9000 or volvo 740 turbo are also exellent alternatives.

Good luck finding a good used 1 mate,if i'm not mistaken corrados from '89 had 36 spleens on their shaft ujs and rack input shaft while '91 onwards models were reduced to 22 splines for ease of fitment.

New shaft from stealers here in sunny Rome=380euro+VAT...,used shafts 99% are worn,there's no way to change the ujs either..

I've got a few spare KR motor cams for spares,i've also done that same mod on my 2.0,9A G60 charged 16 valver,i'll check tomorow morning and let you know on the part numbers,by the way,i measured the lift of both cams before installing the kr motor's version,there is only about a mm's difference between both cams,i can't see what all the fuss is about...,even the exhaust cam only has barely 2mm difference.

I'm throwing out about 8 or 9 g60 pistons in good condition,if any one is interested get in touch.

Yeah h100vw mate,your correct,i always get 'em mixed up...

Yeah they are,i've got both,you have to swap both upper and lower parts,they all bolt straight on.

Agreed,the spleened part of the rack's ujs are barsteds to get back in,i just did it on my G60,added a ZF VR6 rack and had fun getting the small steering colum shaft's uj back in AND there was also that bloody spring to contend with.

One thing i noticed is that it's much easier to connect up if you also remove the whole colum,sounds like a big job but its only 2 allen head bolts+2 anti-theft sheer bolts,couple of connectors to ign. switch,stalk etc and you lift it out of the way,much quicker than faffin around loosening the subframe bolts

Yes it will seeing as the clutch and brake circuit use the same fluid resovoir,and remember that there are two cylinders to bleed,one is the slave located near the brake master cylinder and the other is the actual master cylinder located on the gearbox bell housing.

Once you open the bleed bolt on the master cylinder you should be able to bleed out all the air,then your cluth pedel will return as normal.

Maybe you have a cooling system problem?,i added a turbo to my old golf 16V and that car had a radiator far smaller than the OE G60's one but it never gave any bother with cooling the engine and my car was always getting thrashed...,i've also got a 9A 2.0 radiator fitted to my 16V.G60 corrado which seems small b ut i have'nt had any issues yet.

You could also try using something like Redline's 'water wetter',i've used it and i can definatly say that there was a difference in running tempratures.

Cable?, geardrive located on top of 'box?,actual speedometer drive gear cogs?,can you hear any very faint clicking coming from the mileage drums?,meaning that the actual cogs could have gone AWOL,it's not un-heard of.

Lastly,you could try taking out the instrument cluster and manually check with a small dremel drill if it works by briefly spinning the the mileometer using either a match or cut off an old piece of speedo cable inserted in the dremel's chuck, the cable does'nt have to come from a Corrado,the square section on speedo cables are all very similer,welcom aboard the forum mate.

I did'nt actually weigh the flywheel before it was lightened,i just took it down to a local engineering place and told them to take off as much as safely possible without worrying about the flywheel exploding,but before i installed it i grabbed hold of a spare 16valve flywheel in one hand and had the lightend one in the other,i guesstimate that the G60 lightened flywheel weighed half compared to the OE valver one.

I've also used a VR6 PP and had the machine shop lathe a couple of mm's off the pressure plate to provide more clamping pressure.

I'll be posting up pictures of the finished car soon,when you've finished your engine do the same mate.

2 people needed,open bonnet,manually select 2nd,look at gear shifter in car,the gearknob should be in it's gate in second,if not loosen 1 cable on gearbox and make small adjustments untill you can select al gear without any unwanted play,notchyness,etc also,the gear knob must be dead centre and have equall left and right play,when looking on the gearbox's shifter tower,normally,the cable adjusters are in the middle of the availble adjustment on the selector mechanisms,hope that was clear of of some use.

I've just finished my 9A,2.0 16v.G60,started first turn of the key,i also installed a lightened OE G60 flywheel with a stronger modified clutch,i haven't taken the car on the road yet because i'm also renovating the bodywork but i can assure you that the engine revs/picks up like a motor bike engine,i too am using digi injection but i'm having tuning issues.

Also take into account what kind of steering wheel you have fitted,if you still have the original wheel you may be ok but if you've fitted an aftermarket smaller steering wheel you'll be in trouble whilst parking,u-turns etc,i've tried it myself when i changed the rack about a week ago and the steering was awful heavy...

When you press out the shaft using a hyd. press,the hyd. ram forces the alternator shaft out of it's bearing,the screws don't retain the shaft,you could also try heating the alt. casing around the bearing part then with a copper malet try tapping the shaft through but i dowt that would be sufficent to shift the shaft.