Supercharged

Yeah, 'BluePoint' usually very good (owned by Bosch I think) Internal ones also very good for iTrip reception!

Ah good point.... No - make sure the engine is cold and remove the exp tank cap to release any pressure... you should be able to swap them over without loosing much... Just watch the seal comes off and goes on etc - your new one should have a captive copper washer?

It's on the right hand side of the block as you look at it in a plastic housing (which you will also need) which holds the temp senders (ideally change these too)

Yep, sounds like the thermoswitch is only working at stage 2.... There is round and a straight plug version, your should be the straight omne with 3 pins in a line It's located on the rad between the top and bottom hoses - check which it is before ordering Also check you have the right size spanner to undo it and you will probably need to remove the battery for clearance

Alright Kev - this is for Yan as he is testing his... I don't think it's the angles he needs - more the adaption values just as a guide (I know they will be different car to car) as his seem to change everytime he tests it (which says to me it's knackered!) Are you going to Inters?

Hi - thats just a float for the level sender...

Can anyone post up the 'learnt' values from the TPS in group 6 to compare??

Welcome to the forum! Mine burns a bit too but it is a TDI :lol: Hmmm... 2.5k is about the price of a new VAG engine on an exchange basis... (without labour of course) New engine would be great as the VR's don't last forever but you could maybe get away with a cheaper option depending on what is wrong - maybe get a few opinions from garages - my recomendation would be Stealth Racing if you are anywhere near...

Dom what are you on about - the handbrake works on the caliper itself, the only problem I can see you having is the carrier pins are seized...

Depending if everthing comes off ok or not i'd say around 4 hours + £100 worth of parts... Worth getting it down to G-werks really as Darren will be quicker that anyone on these engines plus he will check the charger out while it's off (just in case)

Yeah you can do the stat and housing but not the whole pump without removing the G (you may be able to just change the impeller part tho but it's more expensive that the whole unit and not worth it IMO...) Good time to get charger rebuilt maybe?? I did my pump down at G-werks

Ah cheers Riley... didn't realise No I don't think the postion does matter if it's been off as you just rotate it when timing but I guess it just makes it easier to get to the bolt if it's at the side.. (which is how I thought they left the factory but maybe not the case if yours still have the cover on the nut)

Hi - buy a genuine pump (same money and much better qualtiy than GSF /AVS parts - VAG ones hold the seal!) but bare in mind you need to return the old one within 2 weeks or you'll loose the surcharge... You need 2 bottles of G12+ and use 2.5 ltres for the fill leaving the extra half ltr topped up with water for top ups. As well as the stat and housing I would also change the plastic housings on the cyl head along with the senders and the elbow on the rad (Again use VAG parts as the Febi ones are sh1te - especially on a G60) Also buy any clips and bolts which look dodgy I take it you know the charger and bracketry need to come off to get to the pump which make it an arse of a job!

Hmmm yeah does look like something is covering it (there shouldn't be) and also the hall sender should be 90 degrees to where it currently is (out of the factory)

There is a 13mm headed bolt holding the clamp, undo this then turn clockwise to advance... Halfords flexi-head ratchet spanners very useful for this.

Yeah, if it's off eBay it will have been bought by accident by someone...

Yeah no worries - I know what it's like! Get the belt off and line everything up as it should be, (if your re-using the belt make sure it goes on in the same direction), then fit belt from bottom up along it's longest run and round the cam (you'll need someone to help hold cams in place), then with the belt slipped halfway onto the cam pulley fit the tensioner round it and slide it onto it's stud, slide the belt on and do the tensioner nut up hand tight, check the marks... if it looks clearly out then start again but if something looks very slightly off then don't worry as the belt tension can account for this, use the tool and check the belt tension along it's longest run (should twist no more than 90 degrees) lock the nut with a spanner so the tensioner won't move, turn over twice by hand and re-check marks. If your happy then torque nut up to 25Nm.

Back rest is also heated....

GSF no longer sell Synta and most dealers will beat the price that they used to sell for...

There are Corrado handle''s available for cars without C/L - they are about £25 new but I don't think soldering is an option as they don't contain the switch unless this is part of the tumbler that you can swap for the old one...

Answered in other thread before I saw this (Please try and keep to one thread) It's a normal 12 point socket, 19 mm I think - part of the Halfords 150 set. I would strongly recommend using the proper tensioning tool (GSF), especially if you have the late 9A / ABF tensioner. Timing marks - as David says, only rely on the flywheel mark then check the camshaft pully and check cams, turn engine twice by hand and re-check.

Tis correct...

It's just a normal 19mm 12 point socket (Halfords etc)

Yep, just confirming cap nuts are 20Nm

VAG