CrazyDave

Looks good James! Even the head mounting face looks pretty flat still. 8)

No problem Graham, the refinement is still ongoing, but mostly finished. Always happy to help if I can :)

13.5lts/min, thats very good for the size. Might have to try one of those on mine. I think mine is 400lts/hr, so yours would be more than double that... Are you going with the stock fuel rail? It should fit OK as long as the TB is clear? That'll save a few quid if you can. Sure the manifold will work out fine, I suppose the only thing you can't do is profile the inlet ports inside the tube after welding? But not sure how much difference that'll make with fi anyway. Bargains gallore! Good price on the spacer, don't think I could get one laser cut for that much at the local place I use.

You can't beat a nice cheap valver, I know exactly what you mean, cos the one I've got is a little gem. A bit rough around the edges, but drives great. I thought mine was a bargain at £500! I like the manifold james, hows the clearance by the radiator with that tube. The reason I ask is that I decided on square section to get better volume with the limited space behind the rad? Looks just the job though 8) The R32 pump does shift a surprising amount of water, considering it's size. Any idea what it actual flow rate is?

James, only just found this thread, but had a good read through. You just couldn't stay away could you :) Addictive stuff the VRT! I'd go chargecooler again, but second time around it would most likely be the XS like you and Karl. Volume of water and pump flow rate are a bit more important with the XS coolers. The barrel type (PWR) uses a reverse flow method which is why it gets away with a smaller pump and rad. The cold water goes in the air outlet end of the cooler and makes its way out of the cooler against the air flow. So the coolest water is at the air outlet end, just as it should be. The XS and Schimmel have water flowing across the core, so you need much more water to keep the outlet cold, and it'll tend to be colder at the water inlet side. In practice, with enough water moving across it'll be pretty much the same temp at both ends. Hence a big pump and plenty of water volume. But you'll have less boost pressure drop restriction with the XS and Schimmel, because the core has to be longer in the air path on the barrel type. Also remember, if you use larger diameter pipe, you can reduce the tank size and keep the same volume of water 8) Think you've already weighed this lot up by the sound of it, sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs :?

Nice job Paul, can't wait to see this at the next Worcester meet. Stop giving me ideas for my valver... resist..... must keep it standard :)

Try it with the Bosch values, and check it with the probe you have. The method for the iat cal sounds fine. You'll have no trouble with the idle when it's warm, but you may have to hold onto the pedal a bit when cold. But after a minute or two of running it'll be fine. As far as timing goes, I'd try and find somebody else who's done a valver map, it'll give you some good base figures. The MegaTune manual is very good, follow the advice to the letter, especially what to look out for with initial running. Take your time and keep it really steady until your sure it's not running lean or to much timing.

If you need help with sorting this out Wayne, send me the sensor in the post and I'll sort out the cal for you. Then you just need to type the numbers in.

They are different, you'll need to find out the part number of the one you have to try and find out which NTC sensor it has, or you can apply a three point calibration as already mentioned above. The probe should have an insulating laquer over it to stop moisture changing the readings.

Hi Wayne, No problem mate, be good to see how the 16vt runs with MS. I'll dig out the NTC curves for the open element air temp sensor and post them a bit later. You just type the numbers into MegaTune and away you go. MegaTune has an auto-mapping function. You hook up a wideband o2 sensor into MS and set auto-tune on, then go and drive around doing different conditions. MS will look at the wideband reading and correct for the condition the engine is currently in. You setup a target AFR table in MS, and when the engine is in that condition, if it's lean, MS will adjust the mixture to get the target table value (ie richen the mixture), and vica versa if its rich. After about an hours driving it'll be about 90% tuned. You can't really do WOT this way but all the part throttle stuff is a doddle. Dave

Right the TPS sensor should be wired like this: Pin 1 - GND - MS Pin 7 Pin 2 - +5V - MS Pin 26 Pin 3 - Signal - MS Pin 22 Pin 1 is marked on the body of the pot, but you'll have to look very closely to see it. The temperature sensor for the ignition system is the one with the blue / white stripe, The one towards the back of the side of the head. Use this one and wire it to MS pin 21. Inlet air temp needs wiring to MS pin 20. Make sure you have a good ground back to MS pin 8 from the cylinder head or the sensors won't work correctly. Hall effect trigger is connected like this: Red / white - MS Pin 26 Brown / white - MS Pin 9 Grey / Green - MS Pin 24 The 1k pullup resistor will need fitting inside the MS box, but I need to dig out my box to look show you how. Get yourself a wideband lambda if you haven't already or it'll be a nightmare to setup properly, with the wideband you can pretty much drive it around and it'll sort the fuelling out 90%. An Innovate LM-1 or LC-1 will do the trick. Hope this helps a bit more. Dave

Hi Wayne! I'm here! Audi TB should connect pretty easily. You need a 0v-5v signal from closed to open throttle all wired from the MS connector. I'll sort you out some pin numbers when I get home tonight. Coolant sensor is tricky, so many on the valver. One is for the ignition system, one if for the gauges and the one you need is left. Again I'll check when at home to find out some wire colours. Calibration is pretty easy, bowl of iced water is 0 degrees, dip the probe in, let it settle and measure the resistance. Boiling water is 100 degrees, dip the probe in and measure the resistance. Ideally you want a third point at ambient temp, use a thermometer for the temp. Put these numbers into MegaTune, sorted. Same for IAT as above. Injectors can be batch fired or alternate. All at once, or INJ1 then INJ2 then INJ1 etc. Wire them up so that the injectors are in firing order, eg 1342. Injector 1 connected to INJ1, Injector 3 connected to INJ2, injector 4 connected to INJ1, injector 2 connected to INJ2. But start off in batched injector mode in MegaTune to get it running. Also measure the injector coil resistance before you power anything up, you'll be fine if you have high impedance injectors (about 10 ohms), but low impedance need a little more setting up. Let me look at the hall sensor. Are you running the dizzy still? or a 60 tooth wheel? The hall sensor will need a 1k pull-up resistor that the guy below talks about. Hope this helps Dave PS This guy has done MS on a 16vt http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95048&highlight=megasquirt PPS PM'd Mr Beige also, he's an MS man too!

Pretty sobering stuff..... just shows that older cars might be tough and strong, but that ain't what you really want if your going to survive and good shunt. Technology and impact design has sure moved on recently. Can't wait until we have cars like in Demolition Man, the one when the whole car fills with packing foam when you crash, cool!

I have to agree with Dr Mat on this one. The biggest problem with the C is that it's perhaps too stong and doesn't have the modern design of load spreading crumple zones, no door bars, seatbelt pre-tensioners, curtain bags etc etc. You'd almost certainly have a neck injury and probably head due to lack of airbags. Having said all of that, for it's age, very good. Would rather be in anything VAG if I was going to be in a shunt. And I shouldn't need to say it, but I'm going to. Not wearing your seatbelt is the quickest way to be worse off in an accident, put it on, it will save your life.

Official site: http://www.ross-tech.com/ Many years ago, I bought from them direction, very helpfull.

The engine ECU and the TCM have a fair amount of 'chatter' going on between them (all on CAN bus). The engine throttle will need to be regulated when the DSG shifts gear etc. But I suspect it's just an option code in the ECU, the same a cruise control etc so it can be switch on and off as the different model cars are built. Being production cars I doubt its much more than that or it would be very difficult to build in any volume. You could get the immobiliser coded out, as you already said, so maybe the DSG option could be switched off at the same time. Or they could flash the ECU with a standard, non DSG calibration. Sure it can be done Kip, and with the standard management, so you'll get all the refinement that goes with it. I love driving DSG equipped cars, they suit modern driving so well (crawling in traffic!). But when you do get out on the open road, they shift very fast, and you get 10% better fuel economy as a bonus :) Oh no, I think I've found my next project!

That's the perfect combination for me. V6 3.2 and a DSG box, best of both worlds. The DSG box will have it's own controller, a TCM. This needs info from other controllers in the vehicle, so could be quite a challenge. The TCM needs feedback from the engine ECU, ABS and steering sensors, cos it does all sorts of clever stuff, like when your braking hard and turning the wheel into a corner, it'll soften the downshifts of the DSG to prevent locking of the wheels. Very cool, but bl**dy complicated. Standalone will only cover the engine side of things, not the DSG. I'll see if I can find out a bit more from a few people I know.

Great news, couldn't believe this took so long to go. We had a few people looking to buy Storms at the Classic Motor Show. Pointed them in the direction of Judiths. Looking forward to seeing the new one next year!

Well, the parts arrived from vwspares after a couple of days. I went for the standard 16v mounts in the end, about £100 for all three. Got out under the C today, fitted all three mounts in about an hour :) . Easy job really. I did the front first, bit of a fiddle to get the engine high enough, but just keep jacking until the engine stop moving. Undo the top bolt by squeezing a long extension down through the fan housing and a 15mm socket. Two bolts underneath, one 17mm the other 13mm. Then just enough room to squeeze the mount out without having to unbolt the bracket. Put the new mount in and finger tighten the bolts. Front mount was cream-crackered! The top had broken away and the stud had about 2" of movement. So that's why the inlet pipework was touching the bulkhead when accelerating and the strange clunk as I took up drive! Did the rear engine next. Took the inlet plastic pipes off to get better access. Three bolts on top of the mounting, using a long extension, 13mm. Jacked the OS front up to get underneath. Then a short extension and big bar to release the two bolts underneath, 15mm. One has access through the hole in the wishbone. The other is near the steering rack joint. Lift the engine at the rear OS corner of the block, it has a machined hole to get a little bottle jack on. New mount in place and refit all the bolts, just finger tight. Inlet pipes back on. Gearbox mount next. Car back on the floor. Working above, loosen the 17mm top bolt and remove. Two 13mm bolt into the subframe. Lift the gearbox on a jack, carefully near the G-box sump plug (use a block of wood so as not to damage the casing) enough to get the mount out. Fit the new one, checking the orientation of the top pad of the mount. Fit all the screws finger tight. Drop the jack down. Get everything clear and start the engine and idle for 30 seconds. This will settle the engine into the mounts. Turn the engine off, and tighten all the bolts properly. Job done 8) Car feels much much better now, no clunking noises when pulling away and nice and quiet.

Thanks Guys, great advice as always! :D

Well, I finally remembered to ask the dealer for engine mount prices. Front and rear hydro mounts are £120 each :shock: :shock: :shock: , gearbox mount is £35. That would almost double the value of the car! Mk2 prices are the same, and so is the part number. Looks like it's GSF, and put up with a little vibration or maybe look at Vibratechnic mounts.

Oil pressure switch sorted last night, in the dark! Not easy, but some super long thin socket extensions did the job. Fed the extensions down between runners 3 & 4 of the manifold. Was definately the brown switch, the rubber boot was full of oil :) Good idea about the headlight Kev, why didn't I think of that last night! I also fitted some new boost hoses to the diverter valve. Custom made to measure stuff from http://www.goodflexrubber.moonfruit.com/ Feels like one of the handbrake cables died this morning, must have been all this stick they gave it at the MOT. New cables it is then.

Cheers David, as always top information and part numbers to complete the package! Looks like a set of VAG mk2 16v mounts it is then. Just been to the dealer for a cam belt and tensioner, as it's done 141k and already had a belt at 80k. Karl, didn't doubt you for a minute mate. :) Michael, those bits would end up being the shinest on the whole car. Just you wait till you see it in the flesh. The pictures in my gallery are very kind to the old gal! Arn't the solid mounts a bit harsh?

The VRT is more than enough to keep me happy :D driving a standard valver every day just makes the VRT feel even quicker :shock: It might get an MS system fitted at some point, especially as I have one sitting in the garage at the moment. But only if the K jet starts to play up. Keep the pics coming though, sure quite a few people on here are either looking at MS or turbo or both!

Michael, go easy I'm a 16v virgin. What am I looking at?