CrazyDave

Excellent work! Love the colour, perfect sleeper. Handling was never great on early polos, I had a GT for a while and that was pretty exciting with 75hp in the wet! Poly bushes fitted to everything in site seemed to do reasonable job, but still not as good as a MK1 Golf standard. Like you said, needs proper wishbones and AR bars.

Yep, thats correct. And you also get negative temp readings on AG ecu for inlet air and engine coolant until ecu sees a crank signal. No fuel pump either while cranking. All symptoms of crank sensor. CP ecu temps read correctly with just ignition on. Start the engine. Reset the fault codes, drive the car and then read the faults before switching off is the only way to get accurate codes.

Well the BEGI fuel regulator is fitted and setup, and I have to say that initial reaction from a quick drive is it's really good. Standard injectors and Motronic CP ecu. Very easy to set. 36psi at idle, 47psi at onset (hose clamped) and gain adjusted to give 12AFR at WOT (about 3-4 turns out with the little screw). Works a treat :) I need to sort the BOV now, cos the poor MAF gets very confused when your in decel and dipping the clutch to idle. Sometimes has a little idle moment. Looks like it's the air bleeding out of the BOV at high vac and causing a high MAF reading. If I drive around it by holding the gear until the engine speed is 800ish it's fine. Performance feels OK..... obviously not as much timing as with Megasquirt, but pulls strong and otherwise drives very very well. A nice interim solution until funds allow a bit more playing. I guess I have to eat my hat now then Kev! Begi sceptic that I was :lol:

Update on the 1.8t sensor and Motronic. DON'T use it. Motronic doesn't accept the new sensor properly and keeps showing 75deg intake temps. This is the failed sensor default reading. Sorry guys, standalone ecu's only.

Well after seeing Kev's turbo it little bits I was a bit worried, so I had a look tonight to see if all was OK. Difficult to see but I managed to get a digital camera down the back of the engine and get a picture. It's fine, looks like the anti-surge pockets around the inlet of the 3076R do the job. Although I only have 2000ish miles on my setup. I have the same Tial valve and standard spring setup, but only 8psi boost. The other news is on the 1.8t air temp sensors, before you all go rushing out and fitting them to Motronic, DON'T. The ECU doesn't appear to like the rate of change of the new sensor. It reads correctly but changes so quickly the ECU thinks the wire has come loose and defaults to 75 degrees intermittantly. So unless you have a standalone it won't work correctly.

Not easy to get at with the front on, from underneath would be your best bet, but not much room. We did manage to get a crank sensor off / back on again at the weekend without removing the front but the knock sensor is a bit higher up. Good luck!

The white one is the crank sensor, so thats why the engine runs at all. The black one is the front knock sensor. It's just bolted to a threaded hole on the front of the block (in the middle ish). Not sure if this would cause bad economy, but you do need one for it to run correctly, or the ecu may pull all the timing advance for the front cylinders. Hope this helps?

Sounds like it may be either the VR Crank sensor or Front Knock Sensor both colour coded so difficult to get wrong. Both need to be fitted. But it will run without the knock sensor.

Looking very neat Marcus, you'd hardly know it was fitted! Rob, try and keep the diverter valve return away from the MAF, and keep the pipe runs before and after the MAF straight. Air Filter------MAF-------DV return pipe--------charger-------dv out-----manifold Air flow meters need 2x the diameter of straight pipe before and after the meter for best results. The DV return may cause reverse flow if placed to close to the MAF, it can't sense direction, so it shows as a false reading of more air going in. I know it's tight for pipework but most of the above can be done. Didn't Mr Fusion have some pics of his Rotrex setup?

I've been running mine on standard Motronic for the last few days using the 1.8t sensor and it works a treat. Tracking of air temperature is much faster so the fueling will be more consistant. Give it a try. UPDATE, don't try it it's not happy. See below

Quite difficult to see the front to rear comparison on injector timing, so maybe my eyes are out of calibration! I only have a two channel scope and one of the traces needs to be VR sensor to get TDC. The front cylinders being lean would make sense if it's the fuel being 'pulled from the walls' of the cylinder head. So longer tract = more fuel to the rear? Just an idea. I'm a bit concerned about my manifold now? It's not blowing as far as I'm aware, or sooting as you describe, so fingers crossed. It's a big casting though so cracking might occur as it grows at a different rate to the head? Could you see it from the top / outside or just when stripped down? Looks like I've reached the limit with the squirt, lack of sequential injection is starting the hinder my efforts so I'm looking into options. But for the moment I plan on running Motronic with a BEGI or similar rising rate and buffer the MAF signal through a DSP microcontroller linked to a MAP sensor. This will allow filtering of the throttle closing, manifold depression condition to get the fueling stable during shifts. ie trick it into getting a stable MAF output when the dump valve opens. And clamp the MAF during WOT. May also be able to fiddle a little more fuel during part throttle by tricking the O2 probe during closed loop.

Rob. The power delivery should be smooth and progressive, all the way. Just might peak a little earlier than the VF. You'll love it! Loads of torque. Done a few checks this morning with Motronic connected, standard injectors etc. With a scope on one of the coilpack trigger wires, the dwell is 6ms!!!!! No wonder MSD's burn out without a ballast resistor. It also confirmed my misfire which does exactly the same as megasquirt, timing light on the no.3 HT lead shows several missed sparks every now and again. Also interesting to drive with Motronic on, it doesn't run lean at all (although only 50% throttle). But it doesn't like the dump valve. Everythings fine until you lift the throttle, the dump valve opens, lots of air rushes past the MAF and the fuel goes very rich, then cuts and shows a lean spike, then back to normal. Does run very very nice though. The front and rear banks are timed differently for injection, scope shows a definate advance in triggering the rear banks that changes with engine speed. This is going to prove a problem for Megasquirt as it doesn't support sequential injector control and variable injection start. Like DTA, VEMS, Emerald do.

You'll get away with a smaller barrel charge cooler if your target power requirement is less. My car was kitted out for 400hp, not that I ever wanted to go that high. So the turbo, cooler, ARP bolts, clutch, mounts etc was all sized for that amount. If you only want 250 then you can come down a size on cooler. Speak to one of the Daves at Chargecooler.co.uk. The extra weight is minimal, the cooler weighs about 6kg with water in, 10" rad about 1-2kg, pump 1kg, plus the pipes and the little tank. I reckon 10-12kg. More than an FMIC yes. What about trying water spray over the CC (like Subarus etc). Adiabatic cooling is very effective and cheap. A few fine nozzle sprays and a small washer pump should do the trick, triggered by throttle position, from the washer bottle? Worth a try? Oh and yes, owning a Corrado is great. When they work!

Just read spotted this thread coming back to life and just done a few tweeks to my setup that have improved things no end. 1.8t boost sensor is part number 058 905 379. Made a big difference to response on a VRT. Just check that you don't already have an open element sensor already. I think it's in the side of the boost pipe middle of the engine bay? The temp curve is very close so it should work fine on standard ECU, not identical though. The 10" radiator from the Daves, fitted up front great without any cutting. But I did have to trim the fan brackets to get a bit of clearance. Again this is on a VR though, the G60 front is different (like a valver?) so you may have more or less room. Ducting air into the charge cooler rad made a big difference, as did opening up the VR grill to get more air in. If you don't duct the air to the pre rad it'll take the easy route through the main radiator and the charge will eventually get hotter than your expecting. The fan does run all the while, but it's not needed above about 45mph. Some pics here of my kit and install guide http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=27844&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=75

I don't think the stock pack does, but the Motronic dwell will be set just right for it anyway. The guys on vortex measured the pack impedance and ballasted the supply to cope with stock dwell (well thats what it looks like). Pretty sure the coil outputs in DTA are direct and the dwell takes care of not over charging the coils, unless it's set to high :) Rotrex are a great charger, very reliable with minimal extra belt tension. I was very close to going this route myself, but went for turbo in the end 8) The other thing you'll notice about Rotrexs' is they develope boost much earlier than a VF, the gearing is much higher to give boost lower down. Really quiet 8)

Always a fine line between coils working fine and blowing. How much dwell are you running Kev? I think you posted 2500uS on Vortex, which should have been fine, but if they are lower impedance then maybe thats a bit high. The general rule (which I'm sure you know) is enough to charge fully but not enough to cook them, too much dwell will heat them very quickly. Hence the stock pack needs a ballast resistor to limit the charge current. Mmmm Rotrex! Nice kit Rob, sure you'll be pleased when you get that running :) Marcus.... your in for a very big grin!!! 8)

No software demo to download and look at then? It's the software that makes or breaks this kit. How does it do boost compensation. Is it TPS load site or MAP or both, or is it speed density like Megasquirt. Sorry for the tech stuff Karl, but the website doesn't seem to have much info on how the ECU works and without a software download (demo or something) its hard to say yes or no. Have a look at http://www.emeraldm3d.com/em_ab_em.html. Nice kit, software demo to have a play with, good explanation of the kind of things modern engines need controlling. Good prices aswell. And final setup on Dave Walkers rollers, worth it's weight. If you want a hand fitting something like this, give me a shout, be glad to help out. Should keep the cost down. So many others to consider, Megasquirt is cheap and works but needs a lot of electronics messing about to get right. It doesn't do sequential injection (so no trimming of fuel to the far cylinders or very fine fuel contol). DTA is superb, I was very impressed when I saw Kev's. Good software, easy to use, and top spec hardware. VEMS is another one that looks good, about £400 ish, but you'd have to find someone to RR the final setup who knows the software.

GVK, good to meet you too! Didn't make this months meet due to work, will try and make the next one. Been AGES since I posted any updates in here, so here goes. Haven't been able to sum up the enthusiasm to get to the bottom of my running problems since the rather disapointing runs at inters. Recent Coventry meet. If you haven't been to one yet keep an eye out for the next one, great fun. Charge air cooling problems: When sat idling, the inlet air temps climbed through 50+ degrees! Even with the charge cooler fan on. This was easy to fix. The VR front grill only has 1 of the 3 slots open, and the easy route for the air coming through is across the main rad. So I ducted the air from one half of the grill to the CC rad and opened 2 slots, and hey presto 20degrees off the inlet air temp. 1.8T charge air temperature sensor: After sitting for a long time, the standard VR sensor heat soaks and then it take 10-20 seconds to read the actual air temperature. This caused a slight lean mixture. So I modified my inlet manifold to take a 1.8t sensor. Nice rapid temp readings and accurate fueling to compensate. Misfires: I had the normal VR Beru leads fitted, so they had to go. DubPower do a set of 10.8mm performance leads. The spark is much stronger with some decent leads, but I still have a miss. Strobe confirms this, I can see it missing ignition cycles. Looks like the coilpack has given up. Time for a set of MSD's and a custom bracket. Although I have looked at putting Golf V5 coil tops on, as they will fit in the space around the VR head? I've also got a 70deg stat to fit, to try and get the overall temperatures down a bit. Not that my car runs hot, quite the opposite, when running it sits at 85-90 degrees. But I don't want it getting hot when sitting idling. So the first fan speed needs changing aswell. Brake problems: I fitted some Goodrich hoses a few weeks ago and discovered some rather dodgey solid pipes. Two broke off and one burst! I fixed all those, and then on the way to BVF. The brake compensator valve sprung a leak. What a hideous job that was, 4-5 hours to get the old one off and 3 attempts at bleeding the brakes to get the pedal back. I ended up changing several of the solid lines so that I could feel confident they weren't going to give me any more problems.

Staffs, had a similar problem with Stevef's car recently, it was the plug in the back of the fuse board (G4 I think). It wasn't quite clipped in properly so wasn't getting a trigger from the ECU. Fuel pumps do fail though and icky wiring doesn't help matters. You can test the fuel pump by sticking a cable tie in the contacts of the relay, then it doesn't need the ECU signal. Good luck!

Stormcharged, some rather healthy dyno figures then! And looking as shiney as ever. :) Well after what seems like a rather long time, I'm getting to the bottom of my rather sorry power problems. A bit of everything really! Charge air getting to hot, not enough air flow through the pre-rad (sorted with ducting / opening the front grill up and now 20 degrees lower!) Getting an intermittant misfire. The leads I had are the usual Beru standard VR ones (not great), so I fitted a set of 11mm performance leads (from DubPower). Spark was much stronger but still suffering a misfire. So after checking the MegaSquirt trigger signals with a scope and checking each lead with a strobe, it looks like I have a dicky coil pack. No.3 drops out every now and again. No.5 drops out lots when hot. Very strange, but it's most definately the cause. Set of MSD coils now on order to finally get everything sorted. But I will have to sort out a bracket to mount the new coilpacks as I don't think I have enough room in the normal location, charge cooler in the way. Looking forward to being scared silly when I have all 6 cylinders working together :shock:

Nice one Chris! You do like to get stuck in :lol: Should be good for a bit more boost when you're back together!

Did my rear compensator valve on Saturday, what an arse of a job! Loads of trouble getting the brake pedal back, spent all day on it. 4 hours to get the valve clear, the language was not good :shock: . Then I went for a drive Sunday morning on some quiet twisty roads...... :lol: :lol: 8) Don't get down Rob, just look forward to the next thrash!

It could cure the loss of power / excessive fuel consumption side of things. It's caused by the thermo-time sensor triggering when it shouldn't. It should only give on shot of extra fuel when cold (more if really cold) to get started and then never fire whilst running. Replace the thermo-time switch, but I'm not sure of the location of it?

Have you unplugged the cold start injector yet, I have a feeling that may be causing most of your troubles?

Hi Waz, Most VR idling problems are MAF or ISV. No cold start injector on a VR, ECU handles extra fuel for cold start. VR should idle at 750rpm and be pretty steady. Air leaks and broken hoses in the lnlet system are also a good bet, especially the breather and plastic noise damper box under near the ISV, prone to failing. If you don't have any joy, pop round and I'll have a look.