CrazyDave

I did wonder if it was possible without a hydraulic press, not sure why I had so much trouble but it's done now. Satin black looks just right, nice and OE. Looking forward to seeing the results of all your hard work at U-Dubs.

Have you tried looking at stuff from the States? Give Bill Schimmel a ring, he's very helpful. http://www.spturbo.com I guess the trouble is that another engine will still need rod bolts etc for what you have planned anyway. And then you won't really know the condition until it's running. Just more unknowns... Be well worth it in the end though Chris, you already know the grin factor from driving a 300hp VR is priceless :)

How did you get on with the rear bias valve and the bushes? Sorry, talking oily bits again :D I can't believe just how bad the beam was on mine, it's cleaned up fine though.

Very nice! Looks lower than when I last saw it?

Warmup enrichment within 1%. Takes some getting right but it's the difference between leaping into life and what you have now. I forgot to mention that if you run the tuning of the ignition table you can watch the little dot moving around when you open the throttle. Watch how it moves and tune the sites it moves through with the more advance the closer to 100kpa it gets. Hope that makes sense? You're right though, get the idle stable first and then move on.

Cheers guys! Not sure why I didn't think about doing the bushes at work in the first place. I was about 30yds from the press when painting the bits and bobs. Never mind, live and learn :) Needs all putting back together now, but quite looking forward to that.

Eeeek! Think I should listen to my valvers creaks and groans a bit more in furture (not just turn the radio on!). Which reminds me, I must look at all the front bushes, somethings floating around a bit. Looking really nice James! Like the contrast of the black bits against the white.

Nice one Wayne! Not been in here for a little bit, busy at work. Good news then! You've now only got a few weeks of fiddling with settings to get it running nicely (only kidding! But the temptation to mess now you can is just too tempting). Initial starting is all about ignition timing, crank pulse width and prime pulse. As the book says, don't try to adjust the prime pulse to compensate for crank pulse. It's just to get the fuel rail up to pressure and clear any bubbles etc in the (maybe very hot) fuel rail. It needs to be within about 1% or the required mixture to catch first time, and you only get 1 go at a cold start. Looks like the warm up enrichment is falling off too quickly. The AFR goes lean but just before your injector pulse width has started falling. Increase the warmup enrichment a little at that water temperature and try it. Revving up needs ignition timing and fuel. The ignition needs to advance when you open the throttle and I can't see any change in your logs. But also the MAP reading doesn't change much when you part throttle so you many need some more sites in your map at about 35-40-45-50-55 kpa. Then you can setup ignition advance of an extra 10 degrees ish when you crack the throttle open. Great work, feels good when you did it all yourself :D :D :D

As usual its all about having the correct tool for the job. Half an hour on the big press at work and job done. Bushes in and all ready to put back together :D

Well tried to press the new bushes in this afternoon and can't get them in with a simple all-thread puller. Looks like its a take it to work and use the porta-power bearing puller or a press to get them in :? They're so close but need another few mm on each bush to get them fully home so the support brackets will line up with the holes in the chassis. On a positive note, all the parts are cleaned up and ready to fit, so once the bushes are in it should be a nice assembly job to get it all back together :)

Oh it's painted all right! Just waiting for it to harden off properly before bringing it all home from work. Managed to get the beam into the little shot blaster, with one end hanging out :) and then cleared up the mess afterwards (carbide shot everywhere!). A few sneak preview shots! Just in red oxide at the minute. Semi gloss black for the final finish. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSC008050003.JPG[/attachment:relxv5qh] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfDSC008030001.JPG[/attachment:relxv5qh] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSC008060004.JPG[/attachment:relxv5qh] Calipers before shot blasting. DSC008090007.JPG[/attachment:relxv5qh] And after :D Amazing how well they come up. How are the KW's Shaun?

DOH, sorry to hear the news Chris. But as others have said, chin up, could be time for something a little different. R32 twin turbo sounds like fun :D

Boost monkey, you've been into those books again and learning stuff :) get down the pub with all the rest of the students :lol: But looks good to me. My mate keeps trying to give me a 50mm inlet for my valver, but TBH i'd rather stick to the 42mm to keep what little bottom end torque it has intact. Don't like revving the old gal to much as its all getting a bit rattley. As for FI applications, the air flow / runner length / pressure wave charging etc is not anywhere near as important as with NA due to the pressure. Think of the manifold as a pressure vessel and when a valve opens the air doesn't need sucking in, it rushes in. More air into the same cylinder area (+ more fuel of course) = more torque and hence more power (oh and a big grin :D ).

As I understood it the K-series head gasket problem is mainly down to the tolerance between the tops of the liners and the surface of the block, getting the dimension correct is the key to it sealing correctly. The machining tolerance just wasn't tight enough. The other cause of early failure is water leaking un-noticed from the inlet mainfold heated waterways. Unless you actually keep checking the water level, the o-ring seal fails and due to it location isn't easy to spot. That combined with a very minimal water system, leads to overheating and the liners dropping down into the block. Still a great engine, makes really good power and the all alloy construction makes for great power to weight figures. All alloy Toyota for me though, very light and powerfull :)

I mean as in higher top speed needs longer gearing (assuming the engines max speed is the same... which it isn't cos the valver will rev a bit more), the valver C is booked at 130ish mph compared to 112 for the Golf.

So nobody thinks that 3 engines in as many years is a little unusual? Excessive oil consumption in all cases. Please don't get me wrong, I like Fiats. A mate of mine had a 128 Sport many years ago (far more than I like to admit these days, ok over 20), a beautiful car. 2 door hatch with a 1300cc carbed engine that made 75hp. The car was an old old N reg so it would have been pretty old even then. It went like a rocket, revved and revved. Used to eat gearboxes mind, more likely down to the way he used to drive in though :) We also had an Alfa 156 in our company pool for a while, with the paddle automated gearbox (Sellespeed?). Lots of fun to drive, but unfortunately did break down a far bit. Like anything mass manufactured in a factory, some have problems, some don't. Oh and the 944 is a great motor, it's just the running costs that put me off. Next door neighbour had a 968 (very different I know), but a service with all the belts changed was over £1300! OK main dealer prices, but the parts alone came to over £500 for rubber belts, oil and filter. Thats far to rich for me I'm affraid

Seem to have touched a nerve...... I can cover all my bases as far a anything I say. I actually had a 146 company car a couple of years back. I had it three years and it had a new engine every year!!!!! And so many electrical faults I lost count. I rest my case. PS I loved it to bits though, just like my C faults and all :D

Plus side for Alfa's and Fiat's, being Italian they all come with heated seats..... or is it just the dodgy wiring :?

It's all power and weight.... Mk2 Golf 8v 936kg - 112hp MK2 Golf 16v 1010kg - 139hp Corrado 1.8 16v 1100kg - 136hp Corrado VR6 1240kg! - 190hp The gearing is also a lot longer on the 16v C. But I know which one I'd rather do a 3-400 mile trip in :)

Always a down side. But IMO the service and quality are so good that I keep going back :) It's just difficult to turn away that dollar rate still.

Ah.... now I can see what you've been up to :) It's been a while since I had the bumper off and couldn't remember just how much is behind it :? or isn't now! I just love the way you've hacked all that metal out but made it look really neat and tidy :notworthy: brilliant job! All my fittings are from Fay at Speedflow. http://www.speedflow.co.uk She really knows her stuff and is happy to talk through different ways of changing from one fitting to the next to suit the application (even when she figures a better way that ends up with you not buying as many fittings :) ). Delivery is pretty much all ex stock and next day. I've never been let down, even with ultra urgent orders.

Awesome stuff James! I like the rad, nice and snug 8) Looks like a decent capacity. Is it a custom rad or off something specific? Did you have to hack much out of the front, if anything?

A guy I know who does vw rear arm bushes all the time made a simple tool with a couple of plates and some all-thread. Push the thread through the bush and the arm and plate either side. Then line the bush up square in the hole and wind the nut. He actually does them on the vehicle by supporting the beam on a stand (with the car on a ramp). The beam is lowered just enough to get access to the bushes etc. He doesn't even need to crack the hydraulic lines open, so no brake bleeing either 8) . Whole job done in about an hour. So I'm planning on trying this with a home made puller, I'll let you know how I get on :) Of course a press would be the best way, so I may just end up putting the new bushes in a work :?

I've gone about my car all wrong really and even against my own rules. A car should always handle and stop well before you increase the power.... Now I'm playing catchup, can't stop the thing and it doesn't go round corners how I'd like. As for the bushes, the job itself doesn't seem to bad. But not needing the car during the week means I can take it apart, take my time, and do a nice job.

If you keep posting uber clean pics of your car, mine will have to be stripped and rebuilt completely in the next 3 weeks :D Don't panic it'll be ready for turbo fun :lol: They came out really easy, just cut a single slit out with a hacksaw and knock them out evenly with a hammer and chisel. Mine had so much rust on I couldn't tell it was a bush, looked like it was welded in, but they both came out no problem.