CrazyDave

Nice one Ben, good to hear you're carrying on with the project. After seeing the Storm guys at the forum RR day the Rotrex charger is a nice piece of kit and is a great way to go.

Keep going that last bit, it'll be worth it! I for one can't wait to have a look around your motor at a meet sometime this year.

Thought about doing a parts list.... then decided against it cos it would have a bottom line!

I'll get finished and see then.

Not done much today. Started cleaning all the bits and removed a few valves from the head to have a look, no nasties found yet. Spent most of the afternoon trying to find out whats wrong with my dads 1998 Mk3 Golf GTI 2.0 8v. Keeps throwing a cam position sensor fault?

You'll be surprised how quickly it will all come together. The mechanicals - a doddle chap. What will take up all your time will be the downpipe and boost pipework etc. I'm not sure what facilities you have access to but I'm sure you'll do just fine.

My Jetex bits should be here next week, so I can make a start when the head is back on and all the other little jobs are done.

As usual it's not always what you know but who. I had considered breaking out the old welding skills and getting a TIG set. But having spoken to a guy at work, he made a quick phone call and set me up with a guy who does TIG all day and makes custom exhaust manifolds for touring cars and rally cars, and his workshop is about 2 miles away! :lol:

So I plan on cutting and tacking the sections together with my MIG in situe and then sticking them in the boot of the 'RED SHED' and taking them down the road for welding. Payment...... a case of Strongbow!

ECU mapping with the BEGI? Stock...and stock injectors too! It works purely on fuel pressure. Basically, as soon as the BEGI detects boost, the standard injectors max out pretty much instantly, and then the BEGI uses brute force and shoves fuel through the flat out pintles at 100psi. Sounds brutal but it works really well! Shame I can't demonstrate as the next time we meet up, I'll be using the DTA.

Sounds like a nice straight forward way of doing things. Not perfect, but as you say it works. Gives you a chance to do some local running in and sorting minor niggles.

bit worried that my chain tensioner has done 140k now lol

:shock: Nick, defo get it looked at. I was amazed how bad mine was. But it's probably lack of use and short trips that does it.

Sorry about the turbo stuff. I blame that haywire bloke :lol:

I like modern diesels, much much better than a few years back (remember the old Ford Escort / Mondeo turbo diesels with loads of lag and the 500rpm of power).

Still one thing that drives me nuts..... the noise at idle, especially when cold. Honda seem to have this sorted. My neighbour has a visitor from time to time who drives a Civic and you'd be hard pushed to tell it was diesel.

The BMW's i've tried are fantastic, 6cyl 4cyl. Prefer the 6cyl cos it actually sounds good. Had a collegue who had a bill for a set of injectors on a 6cyl......£1200!

I had an Audi 2.0l TDI 140 with DSG box for about 2 weeks at work. It was great fun. Quick and lazy on the motorway, lively and fun down the lanes. 45MPG all the time, 60mpg if carefull.

If you have to do lots of miles diesel all the way.

But I'm a petrol head at heart.... bring on the Bio-ethanol!

8 psi WG spring and a TurboSmart 'set and forget' gated Boost valve are all you need Dave, unless you want to get clever with an N75 solenoid hooked up to your Squirt :-)

Sorry, I'm being clever again! I've got the old N75A from the wifes GTI wired up to the squirt. And in one of those, the VR6 was meant to have a turbo moments (like the exhaust heat sheild cutout thing), the standard loom has a connector for it. That connector on the breather pipe with the dummy valve is now wire for the N75 valve!

Looking forward to seeing yours and James's develop into beasts, and yeah, this game does make you poor, LOL!

Oh boy, what a lot of catching up to do! Not likely this century me thinks LOL!

GT35R with 0.63 exhaust A/R will boost like the GT30. If you go for the 0.86 A/R it will be slightly laggy, but the top end will be monster....gear shreddingly monster :-)

 

Yeah the BEGI regulator and a 4" MAF housing work well, it's really smooth actually. Good for 15psi....then you really do need a standalone and go MAP sensor. The charger map might be OK on part throttle but on wide open, it won't be enough. My Begi throws in fuel at 10:1 above stock at the moment on Wide open....it's a little fat, but fat is safe ;-) I can adjust it down to 7 or 8:1 rate of rise, but it runs so well now I've left it. As it's boost dependant, on part throttle it's stock.

What ECU mapping are you using?

Mr Walker is working on a new ECU, which should be available soon.... he's using it on his project 924 turbo with E85! Make sure you get next month's PPC!

Got a subsription from the wife for Chrimbo. I knew she was the one for me when I got a Mk1 Golf front wing and a pair of axle stands for my birthday one year! That mag is cool!

The DTA does sequential too, but it has no advantage over batch firing at the top end. Since the short runner doesn't have much area for 'wall soaking', I think batch is the way to go. Keeps things a lot simpler and the only downside is a slight dip in economy, but 3.0 and turbo, who gives a stuff about mpg? LOL!

Sorry it's one of those dreams I have where my car has 400hp but still does 45mpg! No the main reason is for idle with big injectors. The pulse width gets so short that the fueling becomes inconsistent. But in sequential you'll only have 1 injection event for each cylinder, then all on for max hp.

Oh, and good luck at Stealth on Monday! I'll see if I can get a over that way during the day?

Im going to run 11psi for now with my chip good for 300bhp(hope it works) then its DTA,lsd and big brakes.

It will take a while cos im poor... :cry: :lol:

 

Going to have to envest in one of these turbo jackets then..

Buying turbo bits is a great way to spend money. And they are so pretty!

Mapping might be a bit out in the 2-3.5k area. Depends when your turbo spools. The VF chargers are very linear and don't give much boost low down but the turbo will. Might be worth considering a rising rate regulator. Ask Kev, cos he's running something similar.

I've been looking at Emerald ECU's lately, pretty good and do sequential injection. DTA is the dog's and a good price if you speak to the right people. LSD and brake are high on my list before more power. No point having it if you can't use it and stop.

Thanks for the link James, still can't get the hang of searching sometimes.

Going for some serious power then 8) . I'm sticking with 8 psi for a bit just to get things settled in. Should be good for 1bar up to max engine speed though, plenty for FWD.

Looks like i will be ordering most of my parts from ATP,god i love that place.

 

Were did you get these turbo jackets?

ATP have been really good, Schimmel too. Top service+++++

Kev's original jacket was from http://www.aet-turbos.co.uk/, but not sure about the new one?

I have polished the GTI since these pics, and even the rusty bits shine now!

I'm off to read your members gallery now, goin turbo???

EDIT: No gallery.... That's one big turbo in your avatar. GT40?

I bought that a while back and have since then sold it.

bought them two for 70 quid off E-Bay and they were both Spal fans,MUCH better than the stock fans by far !

Cheers James, I'll try and find one.

CorradoVR6-n.o.s,

£45 + VAT, who was that from?

I've just removed the standard fan tray from my VR. It is bl**dy heavy!

A few more pics of todays efforts! Enjoy.

Ain't she a beauty????? :shock: My daily runner for a few months, looks like a nail, drives like a Volkswagen!

Looking good so far. Nice and clean inside rocker cover.

Not bad in here either. Quite dark coloured coke on the pistion crowns, but no rimming in the bores. Looks like the anti-freeze has been a bit weak with a previous owner? Some surface rusting due to not enough inhibitor.

For all those people who ask when to do VR6 timing chains.... er about 70k miles mate! This is the top guide and it's knackered!! No noise from the chains or anything. OK so it's not in bits, but it's not far off.

New top timing chain, tension strip and guide ordered. The tensioner bolt was change about 5k ago. I'll sort the lower chain when I do the clutch (which could be very soon when the turbo goes on! :lol: ). Check out the forum knowledge base for all the info if yours needs doing.

This had me really worried. No.1 piston has a scuff mark on the crown (top right not very clear in the photo). But after a bit of thinking I realised it must have been the screwdriver I shoved into no.1 plug hole to find TDC! :lol:

When I removed the poly belt from the alternator, I found that the tensioner was really noisey. When the car last ran I suspected the alternator, but thats fine. New bearing for tensioner (£6.70 according to the forum knowledge base). VW want £70!!!

The water pump is a bit stiff, feels like the bearings are going, so a new one has been ordered.

That's about it for now, waiting for some bits before assembly starts.

PS Kev, I just got a catalogue from Speedflow, wow they are good. The information in that booklet is spot on. Everything you ever wanted to know about pipe fittings, hoses etc. Just goes to show, when your looseing faith in UK suppliers, up pops a really good one! Full marks Speedflow!

Think I might have to invest in one of those turbo jackets. Who is the new one made by?

I'd love to show a picture of my workshop but it's a real tip with bits of Corrado and turbo stuff everywhere..... but hey I guess that's just the sort of stuff you guys and gals are into! :lol:

 

The workshop was a bit of a joke :lol: Its just my computer desk with a soldering iron on it!!

 

I love those American DIY programs when the talk about the 'Shop'. Cos everybody has a lathe, milling machine, TIG, MIG, bandsaw and 3000sqft to play in!

 

They do like to do things in a "big" style though don't they! I don't even havea garage or shed! Do all my "not too messy" work in the living room :lol:

Oh noooooooo, no shed! Couldn't manage without a shed, even if it is just a little one. :(

I'd love to show a picture of my workshop but it's a real tip with bits of Corrado and turbo stuff everywhere..... but hey I guess that's just the sort of stuff you guys and gals are into! :lol:

 

The workshop was a bit of a joke :lol: Its just my computer desk with a soldering iron on it!!

I love those American DIY programs when the talk about the 'Shop'. Cos everybody has a lathe, milling machine, TIG, MIG, bandsaw and 3000sqft to play in!

We seem to be blameing the roads in this country for all our problems with accidents etc etc. New speed limits here, there and everywhere.

But it's not the roads, or the fast cars, it's the bloody people driving them!

I present exibit A!

'Stands down off small wooden box and wanders off'

Whats Autosim?

 

this is an Autosim. Part of the company I work for builds them. Very handy bit of kit! It's kinda like a Stim board on steriods!

Nice bit of kit! I did think about doing something in Matlab or Labview but the reward for the effort is minimal, get it on the car and go play. But be careful and find somebody to either drive the car or drive MegaTune, cos trying to do both is pretty tricky, and yes... I've tried (bloody stupid I know!)

I'd love to show a picture of my workshop but it's a real tip with bits of Corrado and turbo stuff everywhere..... but hey I guess that's just the sort of stuff you guys and gals are into! :lol:

Excellent work by the way, keep going!

Looking good Dave. Particularly good work combining your prowess with a camera with that of the mechanic; gives the rest of us a much more involved view on things.

Cheers :D

Although the pics from below took a few attempts to get right. Taking good underbonnet pics is really difficult, it's always dark and dingey and not enough depth of field to get everything in focus.

But if it helps anybody else thinking about this kind of thing then it's worth the effort!

I've ordered a 5ft feed line this time and will run it well away from the exhaust!

I offered all the pipes up during my trial fit and yes strangely enough my feed line is 5ft long should run nicely round the cold side with some P clips in a few places.

Did you run the coolant feed from the throttle body pipes?

Close call with the fire then.... If nothing else get a small in car extinguisher. I always used to carry one in mine and the wifes MK1. Strange things to do perhaps but if you've got it and don't have to use it thats fine by me. Must get one sorted for the C after reading your experiences.

I do indeed! Just trying to source 20v turbo inlet manifold, fuel rail, injectors and throttle body.

 

Not sure about the ditributer interferance as I'm going to use a ford EDIS system for the spark.

 

Does the 20v manifold fit the 16v then? And no, you can't have the one off my wifes Golf 20VT :lol:

Quite a bit on EDIS interface on Vortex if I remember correctly.

Whats Autosim?

Must be built by now?????

If you need anything give me a shout, or maybe that'll be the other way round. My mate is about due to start his 16v Golf Turbo!

I guess you'll have all the same problems:

No throttle position sensor.

Distirbutor signal interface.

Injector rail and injectors.

And that's before you get to the turbo! Should be good though, the 16v turbos I've seen so far are very good.

If you want to borrow a stim board give me a shout!

Done a bit more on the C today. The downpipe is off after much cutting and grinding, but I think the cat is OK. I may take the cat off and fit a band clamp straight pipe, then band clamp the cat so I can put it back in if needed for the MOT.

I also offered up the turbo and manifold to get a feel for the downpipe. The turbine exit pipe is really tight (as Kev said!), but I've had a measure and offered bits of pipe up and it should go in. It actually looks like the bolt flange is a lower profile than the band clamp, even after allowance is made for the studs and nuts etc which seems a little strange to me?

Next job is head off, ARP bolts and compression plate etc, and see what the bottom end looks like..... I hope it's ok cos funds are tight at the minute and could do without having to build a new one (however tempting a 3L bottom end sounds! and it does!).

Looks like plenty of room?

But it soon fills up! Small contact with standard heat sheild and compressor inlet, should be easy to fix.

Turbo in position, the weld on flange is all in place.

View from under the car.

Different angle under the car. Looks like plenty of room from underneath?

V-band clamp in place for size comparision. Looks like the horizontal alignment should be the same for bolt flange?

If you have remove the fuse box cover and the lower shelf (drivers side), then get you head right under with a torch you'll see a little black box with a small black cable going into it via a connector (the cable comes from the ignition key pickup coil). Pull the connector and give it a spray with some electrical contact cleaner, then work it on and off a few times and give it a go. Should start fine and be OK for about 18 months.

The alternative is to go to the dealer and spend £200 on a new ignition pickup coil and immob box to get a gold plated connector (the standard ones a nickel-tin plate which corrodes enough to cause a problem).

The fuse sounds like something different but it looks like somebody else has had that happen.

It's a '95 Storm, 118K.

Was the fuse blowing with you guys when you had this problem?

I can interrogate the ECU with VAG-COM fairly easily locally but what is likely to be the fault?.

Thanks

How old is your VR?

 

If it's a late model with an immobiliser ECU (CP code) then it could be the same fault as DaveStorm and I had. Engine starts fine runs for one second then stops.

 

If you scan with VAG-COM you'll get an 'Engine start without immobiliser'fault code. But you must have VAG-COM on the car when it does it because the fault gets cleared when you turn the ignition off.

 

Easy to fix though if it is?

 

Sunroof may be something else.

looking good Dave, you will have to let me no when your done, would love a go in a turbo'd vr6. did you get any joy with the exhaust??

Yeh, made a trip up to Midland VW just before taking the C off the road. Jodie sorted it out, a bit of fiddling to get it fitted right but great service. They weren't happy until I was. Shame they're a bit far away for me, or I'd be using them a bit more. Thanks for putting a word in with Jodie, great deal.

2.5" SS Jetex cat back. Oval pipe has a nice standard look about it, but polished and shiny! Fits very nice and only a little bit more noise over standard, should be really quiet with the turbo on.

I'll put you on the list for the turbo experience! Along with DaveStorm and Mr Sands.

How old is your VR?

If it's a late model with an immobiliser ECU (CP code) then it could be the same fault as DaveStorm and I had. Engine starts fine runs for one second then stops.

If you scan with VAG-COM you'll get an 'Engine start without immobiliser'fault code. But you must have VAG-COM on the car when it does it because the fault gets cleared when you turn the ignition off.

Easy to fix though if it is?

Sunroof may be something else.

ATP have been great. All my orders have arrived within 4-5 days. I did them online through the website, as long as you know what you need sizes etc it's perfect. Quality is first rate.

I compared some prices with UK suppliers and ATP seem very good (sorry UK suppliers but some items I checked had the same price in pounds sterling as in US Dollars so with an exchange rate of at least 1.92 even with import duty and postage it's much better value direct from the States).

Where did you get that 4" to 3" silicon reducer from? Or is it a regular one you've cut down yourself? The only place I see neat ones like that was ATPturbo.

Yeh, ATP for the silicon bits, good price too IMO.. T-Clamps are really nice stainless ones to ($4.50!).

I thought your turbo was V banded? Obviously not then. I would really, really recommend you split the turbo housings and send the hot side away for V banding. AET turbos can do that for you. It not only makes the profile shallower for the front pipe's 90 deg bend (remember the gear cables, LOL!) , but when you trial fit the front pipe MANY times during it's construction, V band will be a lot easier for you.

I'll give it a trial fit and see. Can see what you mean, space looks fine until you actually get the stuff in place and in soon fills up.

Give me a shout if you have any questions etc, being as you're following the same path I did, parts wise.

 

The TIAL wastegate has acres of clearance for the bulkhead, don't worry about that. It's easier fitting that to the manifold after you've dropped the turbo/manifold onto the head....but you'll spot all this as you go along

Cheers Kev, thanks for the offer. Bound to hit fun and games at some point, early days yet.

Whats your estimates on the output when its all done and are you leaving it a 2.9 or going for a rebore aswell??

Engines only just over 70k, so I'll see when the head comes off how it looks? Quite a bit of oil residue in the breather hose though?

Going for a nice mild 8psi to start with. Although reading about Kev's it sounds like a torque monster from about 2500rpm

nice work,were did you get that exhaust manifold from?

The turbo manifold was from Tommy (IbIVR on http://www.vr6oc.com) but you can get them from the states.

Downpipe will be a CrazyDave special fabricated in a kevHaywire /cheesewire style 3" instead. Oh fun and games :)

Cheers All, Mr Sands you'll have to drop in and have a look!