CrazyDave

Wow, the start fueling looks way over the top. As I already said I'm no DTA expert but 178% extra fueling is a bit much. Surely I'm not reading that right?

Ok maybe not, just looked at the url in your sig. Nice track Golf though 8)

GVK another Worcester raddo???

Have you had the battery disconnected for a few minutes. That sometimes does it, you don't loose the time completely just a few mins.

My main car used to be a new Golf IV GTI, love it to bits, don't care if it's big and lardy. 20VT engine is great drive, loads mid range.

Wife had an old MK1 GTI (1982), started needing work doing all the time. Welding etc.... Daughter on the way, had to go.

She now drives the MKIV, and I've got a 10 year old Corrado VR6. And I love it! Nothing like KADVR6's (yet) but it's loads of fun. Some days I find the trim a bit creaky inside, but the rest is probaby better made than the MKIV. It feels a lot more solid. Newer cars feel a bit fragile to me sometimes especially the gearboxes.

The wifes not so happy with the MKIV, but only if she's thinking about her MK1.

I would have thought so with 297hp!!!!

The cold start is the bit that needs the most work, and deep cold start is the most difficult because you have to wait for cold days and then you only get one or two goes at it before having to wait for another day.

I know you have DTA but have a look at the megasquirt website, just do a search in google for the megamanual. It's got loads of info on setting up for all kinds of conditions, ignition and fuel etc.

Post the screens up, I'll have a look and help if I can. If your anywhere near Worcester your welcome to pop in, I'd love to see the conversion on your car.

The MFA uses the pipe for sensing boost pressure and working out MPG, or used to on earlier cars like MK1's and 2's. Might have been disconnected because of a leak behind the dash though???

Love the 8v engine, smooth quiet, good low end torque. And thats the 1.8 the 2.0 litre should be great for every day. Might need a honking great turbo just for fun though..... oh sh!t I'm off again.....DOH

And to answer your question, YES BUY ANOTHER CORRADO!

Hi Samg60,

usually you would have rpm on one axis and throttle position or MAP on the other. But from you screen shot yours is not that clear, it does say throttle on the right but I would expect it to be in degrees or %. Yours looks like kPa /10 across the top? Although that means your only running 0.5bar of boost?

I'm just working through this stuff myself with a MegaSquirt and that can have either of the above.

A few guys on here are running DTA's so some help should be along soon.

Your cold start problem will be over enrichment during cold cranking, should be a setting for this under cranking / cold start somewhere.

Does it start and then stall? This could be after start warmup settings.

You've got some very low numbers near your idle sites on the left, the 1.0's and 3's these may be giving you a problem. Usually the edges would have quite high numbers as this will increase the engine speed when in that region and prop up the idle.

Looks like a nice piece of kit you've got, bringing it to the Stealth day?

I Want a Schimmel too :)

I'd have been going for what Jimmi is doing here but I've already sourced a manifold to chop about and make a semi-short runner. Similar to some of the pics earlier in this thread. So just a bit to late for me.

Always the way.....

Same stuff I used on my MAF, does the trick.

Also works well if you have the 1 second running immob cutout problem. Pull the connector on the lead from the ignition barrel pickup, give it a good squirt and no probs since. Keep the tin in the car just in case it decides to do it while out and about. Beat the stealer option of replacing the whole pickup and box (so you get a gold plated connector instead of a tin one approx £200).

I hate to throw a spanner it the works, but I love the sound of an Audi 5 cylinder on full chat, especially the 20v turbos!!

Also I have to say that I loved my mates Golf Rallye G60, it was like a little fluffy pussy cat around town, but open the throttle and it leapt into life at any engine speed. Really awesome torquey stuff. 6 speed quaife box, great!

Can't wait for the sound of a VR turbo. Guess I might get a sneak preview from Kev at the Stealth RR day. Fingers crossed!

If for what ever reason we can't get these SRIs made, don't forget we can get the Schimmel manifolds at $900 (£474) each in a Group Buy. Unfortunately that will be subject to 2.6% duty and VAT at this end unless we can find a reposter in the states. IMO it's the best one available and it's pretty good value for a new casting.

Well you put it like that it's a bargain, it's just the duty that kills it!

Schimmel definately the best by a long way, it's had all the right dev work behind it, and it has that rather nice cast OE look about it that makes it very understated. Maybe worth the few quid extra IMO, but funds pretty low just now so maybe later.

I've just put one on, cut up from a MKIV Golf active carbon.

Cut it a bit oversize, tape the edges to stop the carbon granules coming out and push it inside add a bit more tape to seal the edges. Not really a permanent thing, more of a trial to see how much difference it makes.

It's pretty good, especially when following a smokey diesel. Must come up with something a bit more permanent now (without the tape!).

I know the feeling..... best getting it all over in one job lot sometimes!

Chin up! :) Sure it'll all work out for you.

Yeh, quite a bit of that going on out here. Just been for a walk down town and :shock:

Phew, I wonder if anybody read past the first paragraph! :?

 

I did. I always read the techie stuff as it interests me more than wheels and boring interior stuff.

See, I told you I'd been reading up on manifold design, see what happens!

What about this jimmi

I like the look of most of these, in particular the ones with a little extra runner. With the loss on compression ratio I'm looking for every bit of help I can get.

Also, I'd like a little reduction in surface area towards no.1 cylinder, don't want that flow to get confused down that end with an equal box the whole length.

Bl**dy typical, you slip out of the country for a few days and your thread drops into oblivion. Sorry can't spell had far to much of that 19% stuff they have in South Korea!!!

Nothing to add to the thread, the C is the other side of the planet sat on the drive while I'm in bl**dy Korea working!!!!!! :mad:

Would much rather be a home sorting the C than eating Kimshee or whatever they call it....

16vt with msns-e had the ms for about 1 yr but not fitted. got most built. gonna update my post of the project soon as i now found a digicam again.

Keith_mac knows a thing or 2 about squirt. i have asked him a few q's in my time. im good with theory but not into electonics so dont know the bits about that. tp122's and all that stuff to replace fidle for isv? who devised that type of mod?

Mmmm 16vt, nice conversion. My mate is going for the nitrous first on his, but I can see the fully turbo happening pretty soon!

I used the Glens Garage driver board, it has space for 4 FET drivers, two come with the kit (both IRFZ34N capable of driving 20A so more than enough). The ISV on the VR is closed when energised (ie reverse to what the MSnS-e does), but the board has an invert function that allows connection of the Bosch ISV directly. Although the board is supplied with 1k pull-up resistors which need to be changed for 10k to get it working correctly.

The two spare driver positions are going to be used for Motronic relay trigger and Boost Control Valve.

20 miles round trip, saw this thread last night and measured it today. Sometimes takes me 30 minutes though, Worcester ring road is pure h£ll!

Sounds like lambda. VAG-COM shows lambda in realtime, so it's easy to see if it's working OK. It should bob back a forward at around 0.9-1 volt if OK.

but about half the volume it should be.....

If I remember right, shouldn't the volume be about 80% of the engine capacity?

what are the advantages/disadvantages to a short runner?

Long runners help the low end torque in NA engines. They are nearly always tuned in length, to improve torque in other areas of the rev range. Or variable like the VSR. The tuned length makes use of the pressure waves created as the inlet valves open and close, the wave travels up the runner and is reflected back towards the valve (like when you clap your hands into a length of pipe with one end blocked off, you can hear the reflection). This give increased air flow at a narrow rev band. The length is crucial to give the effect in the right area of the rev band.

Short runners are more for FI as it reduces the volume of air required to fill the manifold and therefore improves throttle response, and the TB is much closer the the inlet.

This is the theory (or my version of it!), a few people reckon the short runner works well on a NA car. The Rover KV6 has three different runner lengths, the torque curve with and without is quite amazing (for a Rover!).

Phew, I wonder if anybody read past the first paragraph! :?

Nice job Jimmi, bet you're well happy with 360whp! Sounds like a handfull!

Pictures like this are keeping me going with mine :)

Have you done anything to the transmission and clutch?

think its 029q that has the good pwm code for isv in it.

 

for big injectors the hi-res code seems to work ok too.

 

i will be testing the knock settings on MS when im running. probly the easy way of datalogging then hitting the knock sensor with something and seeing if it pulls the timing ive asked.

I've seen a few mentions of the hi-res code but haven't looked into that yet. To many other things on the list at the mo. Don't you loose pwm control of the injectors and it's replaced by a high precision injection time?

So I'm guessing your replacing your Digifant with MS then?

The knock sensing on the board is only single channel at the minute but it could be made double channel for the VR dual knock sensors. I've already got ideas for a customised VW orientated expansion board.

The knock is really sensitive, you can see it in the logging picture (red line in the bottom trace on page 1). But I've got it disabled so it doesn't mess with the timing yet. It is adjustable via a pot on the board for activation level, so that's something else that needs setting up. Hopefully it won't be quite as twitchy when setup correctly. Seems to be plenty of knock settings in Megatune / MS, even lower the boost control target on knock sensing..

But I guess most of the stuff on the Glens board would be needed by some:

Boost control

4 x outputs for things like cooling fans, tacho signal

Water injection valve

anti lag switch for nitrous

Nitrous solenoid

Dual VR sensors

Launch control switch

Second EGO sensor

knock sensor

table switch

EGT

And I would like to mount the whole lot in a waterproof box so it can live in the normal place.