Crasher

It's the rear dampers that are different. Manufactures of kits tend to use their Golf 1 rear units in coilover kits for the Rallye but if you buy a Corrado coilover kit now and have to change to Golf 1 rears when doing the conversion, as these things go, it will be a small part of the budget.

It depends on what make the bushes are but for example, Powerflex new design Golf 2 front wishbone rear bushes (203's) will not fit a Corrado even though the standard parts will, they need Golf 3 Powerflex front wishbone rear bushes (204's). The front bushes (201's) for the wishbone are the same on G2 and 3 and Corrado. New style front wishbones won’t accept old style rear urethane bushes so you need to know what you have. The rear axle bushes of all Corrado’s are the same as a Golf 2 except the VR6 which uses Golf 3 VR6 bushes.

The bolt should be new and lightly oiled.

Does the electic water pump work? Remove it and run it from a battery in some water to see if it pumps.

The grub screw should only be nipped up ever so slightly as there is a nylon ball underneath to prevent damage to the thread so it should come undone easily with a 3-mm allen key. Before moving the plate, scrub the threads down with degreaser and wash it all down with water and then spray the threads with some light lube such as WD40. Yes, down =down.

VR6's can air lock when refilling, if the auxiliary electric water pump has failed.

KR (1.8 16v), 9A (2.0 16v) and PG (G60) flywheels are the same.

The short will be at the lambda sensor plug on the right hand rear engine mount, where the red/white wire will be shorting to earth. The fuel pump relay provides the lambda sensor with its heater power.

It's a post 8/95 Golf 3 isn't it?

Don't forgeet to use a new bolt and there is nothing wrong with a used pulley as long you check it closely. The tool leaves the surface looking like this.

If the end of the crank looks like this picture, then the crank will need re-facing. This can be done in situ if you can find someone with the tool.

Check that the right hand track rod end is marked “C” and the left hand is marked “D”. It is also important that the length of the left hand track rod is not altered from a specific measurement of 365-mm (+/- 5-mm) as if this is altered, the rack will unevenly lock. This is common when those who do not know this adjust the tracking and to rectify the problem, the track rod must be removed and reset.

What grade of oil are you using?

I can see your angle but it doesn’t sound like lifter pump up to me.

Does the electric water pump behind the coil pack run with the ignition on?

What about the ECU relay (3), if that plays up, so does the fuel pump relay (12)

I have had a number of late VR6 Corrado's do this (the AMM changed in 94) due to AMM failure that gives no fault codes. Also, failure of the ECU relay causes this.

Coolant temp sender sounds suspect to me, have you done a fault code read?

Is it a 1.8 and did you fit a new genuine switch? I fitted one a few months ago and it had been assembled incorrectly by the manufacturer and the wiring outputs were reversed. A replacement switch also came incorrectly made so to get the job done I had to move the wires in the car plug as the ones in the switch cannot be moved.

If it is a post 8/95 with the stepper motor idle control (no separate ISV) then the most common reason for that fault code is a dirty throttle body. Remove it and clean the internals of the body gently with a nylon brush and aerosol carb cleaner. After re-fitting, it will need to be set up in Basic Adjustment mode, group 098.

The relay is at position 3 (top main row, third from the left) on the relay plate and has the number 109 printed on top. The part number of the old relay should be 357 906 381 A, but the current VW number is 1J0 906 381 A. They cost just under £13 from VW. The air temp sensor is on the inlet manifold, 6, just below the servo vacuum take off hose. These can easily be tested using VAG-COM in measuring blocks 08, display group 003, display zone 4 where the figure should be roughly ambient temperature with a cold engine, so about the same as your MFA reading.

Sounds like the 109 ECU relay playing up.

The ABS MC is 24-mm, well 23.81 anyway (358 611 019 D), but needs to be used with an ABS servo (358 612 107 A) which is a direct replacement for the non ABS unit. I have used this conversion a lot on Golf 1, 2 and 3 where I have fitted aftermarket front calipers and 38-mm rear calipers and the 22-mm cylinder wasn’t upto the job.

Is this a VR6?

Don't take this the wrong way (I don't want telling off again) but does that £800 include oil pump, a full engine gasket set, head bolts, con rod nuts and bolts, bearings (including the intermediate shaft bearings, fitted), valve guides (fitted), head re-face, valve seat re-face, lifters, cam chains, tensioner, all four chain sliders, valve oil seals, inner and outer valve springs, new inlet and exhaust valves, de-grease, paint and a full Europe wide labour included guarantee, no matter who fitted it?:wink:

No, the ABF Digifant system requires a crank speed sensor location in the block that a 9A doesn’t have. The 9A block can be drilled and machined for the sensor but it means stripping down the engine and changing the crank for one with a speed reference disc fitting. I doubt you could make KE-Motroinc fit under a Polo bonnet and it’s not a brilliant system anyway. Fitting a 1.8T is far less work than the above ideas. If you want to do something different, how about a 9A with throttle bodies as that would keep the overall engine height down. You will still have to work out a transmission either based on the early SDI 085 system or the later TDI 02A or develop your own idea based on an 020 but they are quite long and are a squeeze.