Crasher

I think one of the main reasons companies like this are failing is the pressure put on them by e-bay. There is no way a company like TSR can compete with their overheads against some bod selling tuning parts from their bedroom.

The Black Coating on the contact surface lasts for about 30 seconds. On the edge and on the bell it lasts for a few months. If looks are important, I mask off the edge and bell then spray it with VHT motorcycle barrel paint from Frost, http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... t%20(310ml) . I did this to the 280's on my Golf 2 ten years ago and it is still OK.

205/45 16 Uniroyal Rain Sport 1's

That just sounds like poor set up or a throttle body quadrant not touching the switch on closing due to a sticky throttle cable.

The Eibach pro kit is excellent but remember if your car is 94 onwards you will need early top plates as Eibach only make a spring with the 81-mm top coil. The Weitec VW001GT kit is an excellent alternative, not that I am biased or anything.

16v's are a pain to stop leaking from the cam cover; in fact, it's virtually impossible.

Chris, there are some automotive legends that refuse to go away arn't there. It reminds me of the air-cooled one about changing rod length alone increasing your CC or that fitting an externally breathing reed valve into your servo pipe (on a car with a lambda sensor) will improve your fuel consumption, no product name mentioned.

Buying a K-Star or V-Sam is one thing, getting them mapped is another.

That ET is part of your problem, it should be 35 at least.

Seen that loads of times. It's pointless repairing it as it will fail again. Take the plunge and buy an exchange block from VAG that is less than a grand-incredible value when you consider the parts retail at more than that. The only concern over the exchange VW block is that I have had two start to rattle within a year. When we popped the rod bearings out of both, we found VW are using normal rod bearings, not the H/D Sputter G60 type, VW don’t even list a specific G60 bearings anymore, we buy them from KS. We now change the bolts/nuts and bearings on these new bottom ends before we fit them as a precaution.

This is what the site looked like today. Take some insect repellent as the place stinks of horse and some of us were bitten by horse flies this morning but they vanished later.

P.S. There are some major road works at the island at Junction 21 that caused problems this morning.

The bushes will press in after you have cut out the originals. From your avatar, it looks like your car is a four stud so why not save time and get a pair of bare FEBI new execution wishbones that accept the current design Powerflex rear bushes. The only thing you have to watch for is that the large metal washer side of the bush is to the radius on the wishbone. It is written on the bush but people still fit them the wrong way around. They aren’t handed and it doesn’t matter which way up they are. The wishbone only becomes handed once you have bolted the ball joint on. Make sure you buy the rear bush (the front one fits Golf 2/3/Corrado) for a Golf 3/Corrado PFF85-204, not a Golf 2 PFF85-203.

Got to get up at some unearthly hour (in about six hours) and go and put the stand up-why am I still on here? I'll post a pick of the raw site tomorrow night.

535 121 251 D doesn't exist! 535 121 251 E transfers to;

Behr & Hella, 8Mk 376 715-30

GERI, 16264

Nissens, 65286

NRF, 54689

Specification:- 322-mm high, 630-mm wide, 34-mm deep

That’s a Golf 4 rad, not Corrado VR6, GSF nuggets! You need 535 121 251 E which is 630-mm wide and they are the same for cars with or without A/C. You would be better off running a Golf 2 G60 non A/C rad as it fits perfectly.

Take the speedo drive pinion out of the box and inspect the teeth. The part number is 02A 409 197 and they only cost just over £3 in the UK. Whether you have an electronic speedo or cable drive, (as with yours) the part is the same and a tight cable or speedo can cause them to fail. It is a manual transmission isn't it?

Del, what is the ET number and width of the wheels and what section of tyre

Sit the car on a flat surface and measure between the dead centre of the wheel and the lower edge of the wheel arch where it turns under, what is often called the rebate. The measurement for a Corrado G60 is 340-mm and the normal VR6 is 360-mm but I lowered an exceptionally original Storm recently and that was 380-mm at the back and 370-mm at the front. It looked like it needed a "4x4" badge under Storm. Using a 40-mm Weitec kit that came down to 320-mm as the VW001GT kit is calibrated from a 360-mm ride height. A normal VR6 I did just after, came out at 300-mm at the front which is a little to low and I had to drop the rear on the adjustable rear spring plates. This variance in ride height happens with some spring sets but Eibach are the most consistent as long as you remember to order some early spring plates for the font if your car is a 94 onwards.

If you want to do a TDI G3 Cab, then I would use a Golf 3 engine for simplicity as it bolts straight in with a few exceptions such as the Cab only side engine/box mounts, so as far as UK market cars go, a 1Z or AHU. It is a pity the AFN 110PS Golf 3 was never sold in the UK. What year is the Cab as this dictates how you deal with the factory fitted immobiliser used on the Golf 3 95 onwards.

Is the misfire at idle or when under load?

Fuel filter

You should change the filter every 40K, we do them at 20K or two years.

Describing the amount of wobble on a pulley by text isn't easy but as far as I'm concerned, there should be no visible movement even at idle. The one I am just servicing at the moment has no visible radial or axial run out. The only true test is to remove the damper and use a dial gauge to measure run out on the toothed belt face. I have seen so many of these fail on various VAG products that I don't take any chances. The in situ re-facing tool saves hours. If you want to tell him to tighten it up a bit more and see how it goes, be my guest. The first picture is of a damaged (16v G2 in this case) crank and the second picture is of the alignment pin used with the face cutter and the surface of the crank nearly restored.

It's quite an easy job but you are lifting a shifting around the engine so you must be careful. You need the car in the air and solidly supported and a trolley jack to lift the engine. I've never done any on the deck and wouldn't want to try. The tricky one is the rear engine mount as it's a bit tight on space and the lower bolts often rot solid into the subframe. I would personally recommend a Vibratechnics front and standard rears but I doubt it will stop your exhaust knock. What systems and front pipe are you running?

Supercharged, I am having problems getting new 1J0 calipers at good prices.