Crasher

the paint was propbably sprayed on over the circlip, Koni do the same...

Exactly what thay do. The dampers are made by Alko.

Yes they can be moved. We have made a jig that allows the plate to be lifted in position to allow the circlip to be moved up or down. You may get the car down enough this way but the bump stops will be heavily loaded and the ride will die! Pull the dampers out and shorten them.

You could adapt the calipers to work on some Ibiza Cupra R 305 discs (caliper adapters are readily available blank and ready to machine) as they are 4x100 and bolt staright onto your hub. How you will make the 5x130 discs fit a G60 is anyone’s guess. I wonder if the bell is deep enough to take a 4x100 to 5x130 adapter?

You need to pull out the rear dampers and cut down the rear bump stops by about 30-mm from the top and drop the rear spring plate at least one circlip position. This is the trouble with Weitec being sold by companies that don't include instructions as they are often quirky kits. We usually don't sell the 4 cyl cars kit as the front is too low. Preferring to sell the VR6 kit and compensate for the rear being 10-mm too low by bringing the spring pate up one circlip position.

Sorry for all the questions but, did you get the kit from me (C&R)? What is the kit number on the guarantee card? What are the ride heights front and rear measured form the centre of the wheel to the edge of the arch at 12 o'clock?

Did you get the kit from me (C&R)?

Firstly, the following job will release fuel, possibly at high pressure so take all suitable precautions such as the engine must be cold, no naked lights, work in a well ventilated area preferably out of doors and have a fire extinguisher to hand. Remove the fuel pump relay (position 12 with the number 167 on top) and attempt to start the car as normal (immobiliser disarmed) and this SHOULD release any fuel pressure in the rail IF the injectors are opening which they may not be doing as the car will not run. At this point, be very careful as fuel may be sprayed out all over you and will run onto the exhaust. Remove the hose from the number 4 end of the injector rail (to the fuel pressure sensor on the inlet manifold) and attach a fuel pressure gauge to the test point. The gauge needs to be capable of reading to 5 bar. Bridge out the two large sockets (4 and 6) on the relay plate fuel pump position, relating to the two large terminals (30 and 87) on the relay. 4 on the plate corresponds to 87 on the relay, the power to the pump, and 6 corresponds to 30 which is the power to the relay. The fuel pump should now run even with the ignition off (unless the output has been intercepted with an immobiliser so the ignition may need to be on with the immobiliser disarmed) and you should see approx 4 bar on the gauge, dropping to approx 3.5 bar if you apply a vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator. If this test gives the required results, the fuel pump should be OK. When removing the gauge, again beware of high-pressure fuel and run the pump (as described previously) after re-fitting the hose to check for leaks BEFORE starting the engine.

Ilexa, http://www.onboarddiagnostics.co.uk , very very nice people to deal with. I popped my (third!!!!!) cable on Tuesday on a Skoda Fellatio and they had a new one to me next day although I was a few hundred quid lighter. NOTE:- If you plug your cable into a car, check the radio is original or pull it out first. Rushing around trying to keep up, I have forgotten this a number of times and it has now cost me three new cables in a year and at near £300 a go, that hurts!

I have learnt to be less OTT in my comments of late, I have been hammered for being to vocal over things I do/don't like and I am trying to take the middle ground these days. Something tells me trying to please all of the people all of the time will probably make me more enemies than being direct but I am giving it a go.

Disconnect the battery and jack up the car and carefully support the car on axle stands bearing in mind you are going to be shifting the engine around. Undo the top 15-mm headed nut and undo the 17-mm and 13-mm headed lower bolts. Lift up the front of the engine with a trolley jack and slide out the mount. As the Haynes comic says, "reassembly is the reverse of dismantling". Be careful though, an engine on the head hurts.

It usually appears inside the centre consul ready for the optional gauge pack but occasionally it does not appear further than behind the fuse box. No, it does not need connecting. As Riley says, that post on the dizzy is for the 030 shield but it is often used to connect the yellow oil pressure wire to for shutting up an oil beeper, something to watch out for when buying a C.

I have never had a problem on a 9A but I only use approved cables.

So how do people make these 2.0+ G60's - 85+mm pistons or different blocks or am I missing something like the throw is increased or counting extra space in the piston crown / head etc??

There are at least four ways of building a 2L G60. Use a 2 litre short or tall block or convert the existing block to 82.5 or 83-mm bore with a 2 litre 92.8-mm stroke crank (1984 or 2008 cc). These methods leave you with a small gudgeon pin and a high compression to work around. The T4 van AAC 2L (1968cc) petrol engine with its 81mm bore and 95.5-mm stroke is ideal due to its 8.5:1 compression and 24-mm gudgeon pins but it is a little harsh at revs.

That is for the optional oil pressure gauge.

Yeah, unless the lambda wiring is broken / shorting

It is usualy the heater wire (red/white) shorting out to earth, very common.

think you can fit mk2 wishbones to narrow the track by 20mm on each side

Corrado 4 stud wishbones are the same as a Golf 2, it's the subframe that is wider. If you changed the subframe to narrow the track, how would you get your camber?

82.5mm will work nicely... Assuming 81mm is standard bore (which seems to ring a bell) the standard G60 throw works out to be 85.8mm so you'll get a capacity of around 1835cc... 83mm pistons would then give you 1857cc (ish!)

The stroke of a PG is 86.4-mm so a bore of 82.5-mm would give 1848 cc.

Motorcycle cylinder paint, lasts years. http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... t%20(310ml)

I always specify the Textar pads as they are the only ones with a self adhesive backing. Remind your garage to clean off the self adhesive backing for the pad on the piston (and a slither of copper grease or ally paste) but use the sticky backing on the outer pad. This backing stops the pads from howling.

As long as you can fit the sensor, some leads cannot be dismantled.

It would be worthwhile changing the injectors.

What part number have you got? It may be the type where you have to strip down the orginal to fit the pump.

I don't think GSF do them for a 9A so if you use KR leads, you need to unscrew the cap end from number 4 and fit the position sensor, is that what you did Nige?

The only problem we find with G4 calipers is that the bleed nipple seizes in and when you come to bleed the brakes after 2 years, releasing the nipple rips out the thread. We have tried ally paste to stop this but don't know yet if it has worked, too soon to tell.

OK, if you can do this, so can I! Try the WEITEC HICON GT coil over from C&R.