Simon69

Interesting data, my thoughts, The afr trace (well all the traces) seems very jumpy, what frequency are you logging at? Also the afr log seems to be quite different to the "afr request" in the table? The ign seems almost "fixed" at circa 27 deg right through the rev range? The intake temp seems high, were is the sensor? Do you have a proper cold air intake on the car? On the EGT is would be my opinion (and I'd welcome Cheesewire (Kev?) input here) that your 7-800 is on the low side because your not yet "pushing" things very much (i.e. quite rich and very conservative ign settings). for info, I would expect to see 900+ on a scooby with a sti turbo (over 1000 overspeeding the stock unit ;) ) that would be with 2.5bar absolute in 4th from 3k to redline, ign about 15deg at 4k raising to 33 ish at 8k. There would be some det with this but not too much, oh an thats on californian gas which is 91Ron+Mon/2, roughly the same as our 95ron pump gas. Which brings me to the last Q lol what do you run it on? regular 95 or Shell Optimax? We did quite a lot of testing on fuel and Optimax always came out on top for a turbo motor I'd need to run it past Vince but my initial feeling is you need a sh*tload more advance (unless these units won't take ign advance for some reason) edit, sorry, one more, do you use det cans when your tuning? Cheers Simon

Hmmmm, maybe not then?? Would all turbo refurbs require balancing? I was under the impression that refurbishment is just a case of replacing bearings and seals? It depends, as has been said it's not the most simple of things and needs to go back together properly otherwise your oil consumption will rival your fuel consumption (that's assuming it rotates at all...) As for balancing that's not quite so cut an dried, while theoretically true that any time you remove the compressor from the shaft it must be re-balanced on re-assembly, in practice a lot of turbo shops (and joe the mechanic's shop's) don't bother and most don't seem to be any the worse for it. I myself re-built the turbo from my GT4 and it was not an issue, as has been said, I would get a cheap unit off e-bay and "have a play" Cheers Simon

Hi Dave, Thanks for that, great to see you posting them up in % too! For what it's worth I would agree that it looks a little lean in the load areas, you might want to try a little more fuel when coming onto and in boost (i.e. more than theoretical "best power" (12.7:1)) in conjunction with a bit more ignition all over. Though this moves you away from the theoretical best position I have found that running the ign closer to det (or even slightly in det for LIGHT load) and then overfueling the load areas to "put out the fire" gives better turbo spool and better part throttle economy and responce... "Kind of have your cake an eat it" :) This is mostly based on Subaru's of course and they are all alloy engines that just love to die horribly at the slightest sign of det ;) with your big tough iron block you can run close or in slight det without so much worry, or course, how much det is too much det is the $1,000,000 question lol... I'd be curious to know the EGT's too, also I'm assuming you've checked that the engine is hitting the afr and ign targets in the map? Cheers Simon

Only two days..... ;) You'll be pulling some sicky's then!

I have to agree with you, makes me depressed when I see what could be a nice car in the hands of some pr*ck that can't / won't look after it properly. In my former life I was involved with Subaru's and they are really going that way now, people see a WRX for £3k and think they can afford it, not understanding the cost to maintain them, so they turn into shed's and the WRX gets a rep as a "bad" car simply because the chav's can't afford to run em... grrrrr lol Pretty much all the K-Jet injectors are pretty much the same as I recall, certainly the 9A is not that different to a KR, just a few more "control" bits.

I would say the leak is more probably down to the cretin that's been working on it not tightening things properly lol... (umm for clarity I mean the previous owner / "mechanic") As for functionality, I have used 8v GTi K-Jet units in place of 16v K-Jet units quite a few times over the years. I far as I could work out the main difference is simply to accommodate the injector cooling system that VW fitted to the late 8v K-Jet and all(?) 16v KR's (hence the two seals, one upper - same as 8v and one little lower one to seal the air system off from the inlet tract). I don't recall ever having problems with the "wrong" injectors leaking, I think the cracking pressure may be a little different though so it IS possible that this is the cause. As for why it's there, 8v injectors are easy to find in scrap yards, 16v are rarer, I would thinks it's that simple to be honest... Cheers Simon

Hi there, I may be wrong but from the pictures of your injectors it looks like the one on the right is from an early 8v? As I said, may be wrong but don't think you have to worry about "parts" falling into the motor Cheers Simon (The reason I know an early 8v injector is my first 16v swap was into a MK1 GTi and I used the original (8v) K-Jet system)

Hi there, Dave have you posted any more information about your Megasquirt setup in the forum? I've read through all 8 pages of this and also done the search thing but most results seem to kick me back here. I would be interested in hearing about your megasquirt setup in more detail. I have PM'd you too, I do have reasonable expierience with ECU calibration... btw, on the Celica WRC they ran the fuel through a small heat exchanger to help control det (detonation / pre-ignition) by keeping the fuel temp more or less constant, some turbo circuit racers do it too. Cheers Simon

I did, it did ;)

Well done mate, PM'd you Cheers Simon

Yea, did not mean to imply you did not know. Good call on the wood, I use some old flooring rubber but it does the same thing. I'd like to think C forum members would be sensible enough to use proper stands lol... Not two piles of old house bricks like the chavs I watched working on an old Nova this afternoon! Natural selection at work I guess ;) Simon

Replaced the rear bearings on mine at the weekend, the trick with the carrier bolts is plenty of penetrating oil (I prefer plusgas) go away for a cuppa (or beer lol) drip a bit more penetrating oil on and get in there with the 1/2" drive breaker... make sure the 8mm hex is well seated though, sometimes it's best to give it a tap just to make sure it's fully home otherwise you run the risk of it slipping out and rounding the internal hex off (not to mention you smacking something fragile against something hard / sharp / pointy...) Oh an for what it's worth, I "crack" the carrier bolts before doing anything else, that way there is more space to work (without the caliper etc getting in the way) I guess it may pay to mention that it's a good idea to have it well supported on a decent pair of axle stands too as you tend to have to "swing" on the breaker tee hee... Cheers Simon

Hi Rob, PM me your mobile and address, I'd be happy to drop by, do you have all the tools you need? As long as the bolts come out lower arms are a doddle! You might want to invest in a can of "PlusGas" I get it from Allens motor services in wellingborough, it comes in spray and normal cans I always get one of each before working on a car I've not had apart before. Giving everything a good soaking in PlusGas works wonders I guess you should get a big tin of copper slip too (for putting it all back together) Cheers Simon

James, I wonder if you could help me, my V6 has just failed it's MOT and one of the items was the abs light not coming on. I have checked it out and it was a blown bulb, replaced is and now the light comes on with ignition and goes out when you crank / start The problem I am concerned about - is there a time span that you / they / the tester's look for, or is just as case of "light on - start engine - light off" ok "pass"??? Thanks in advance Simon

Hi there, I would be prepared to come and offer support / help depending on when you wanted to do the work (as I'm a bit pushed for time the next few weeks) The points that have been raised about what can go wrong are very valid and you should make plans in case you need a vehicle Having said that, wishbone bushes and ball joints are a doddle (even with jacking the motor) as long as the bolt comes out lol Are you doing these bits because they need doing or because you want to do them? Cheers Simon

Hi Rob, Mobile is I'm away from home till wed's night and then have a job to do Thursday morning so anytime after about 2pm Thurs is fine Just let me know on here or give me ring if that's ok with you It's on blocks but I'll prob need to lift the front an inch or two so there is plenty of space to try your wheel but I have a trolley jack so it's no biggie Nice car btw, that blackberry / burgandy colour is my fav but mine came along at a "can't say no price" lol... Cheers

Hi there, Your welcome to offer them up on mine, I'm in wellingborough with a stock M reg VR6 that currently on blocks at the front so super easy to check lol... Cheers Simon