jimbo-corrado

when u checked the engine oil ( via dipstick ) did u notice the level was low ?

Was it engine oil or gearbox oil ?

Your after some encouraging words , maybe not on this one . Sounds like the diff in the gearbox may have collapsed and worn through the gearbox casing , causing the oil in the bell-housing / grinding noise under acceleration . Was there much oil under the car from the gearbox when you stopped ?.

vr6storm- i was at mj's a couple of weeks ago as he's not far from me , and was talking to him about that interior (which he still has) and the only problem was as you say is the dash , which mine is black and grey , so my only option is grey leather , i have thought about black but then all the trim's inside are grey and would'nt look right . Cheers everyone for the positive feedback !! Here's one of the best pic's (i think) taken so far , as in my avatar.

To re-trim been quoted approx £1100 - £1200 , to get proper factory second hand if u can find any £400 - £700 depending on condition , im after proper factory leather , can,t beat it . The wheels are wolfrace voodoo's (original) , ive had them about 5 years and still in mint condition .

Cheers for the good comments lad's , here's a link for the wind def .. http://subscriber.scoot.co.uk/climair/ .., you can put the window down about half way before water starts coming in . What's next ? well there is'nt much left to do eccept the int , i would love grey leather but it's like rocking horse sh#t . Ive been searching round for ages and cant find any . Ive even thought about buying another corrado with full grey leather , swopping it over with mine and selling it on again !

Pic's update - bodykit now on !!

Sod payday , get out the old faithful . :lol:

I have just picked on up from http://www.venommotorsport.com (01254 814444) , i have offered it up onto the top of the rear window and it dose'nt reduce any vision out of the rear window when looking through the rear view mirror . The spoiler is made by reiger and he has 1 left in stock ( did on sat 1st when i picked mine up ) but can order them in , they are priced at £76.38 . Its in the paint shop at the mo along with my m3 reiger side skirts + rear reiger under bumper spoiler , should have them fitted by weekend so i will post some more updated pics in the members gallery as soon as . As for the other spoiler , Here's a pick of niko's corrado ( off this forum ) with the rear spoiler on , try to imagine how far the electric on comes up to it , i think it will leave a small gap but will block your vision quite abit , cause the the electric on does slightly anyway . ( hope you dont mind me using your pick niko )

Is this the window spoiler

I took 2 sections off the underside of my bonnet , and was a real dog to get the glue off . I used tar & glue remover . The best way i found was to put it in a squirty bottle , spray some on and let it soak in for a few mins , then get a bodyfiller spreader and scrape it off . Keep doing this until you get the thick of it off , then use a soaked rag until you get any excess left over off . ( Put a dust sheet over the engine to soak the excess spray )

Mine's a 9a engine not an abf , or your going for the 9a engine not the abf ?

I had this prob when i first bought mine , took some finding but sorted it . Take the light out of the roof lineing , pop the brown ceramic heat plate off , you will see the circuit board with the solder'd connections , have a look at 3 in the middle , this is where mine had a dry joint . If not look for any other soldered connections that look dodgey and re-solder .

On the speedo clocks at the bottom left hand side , next to where you adjust the time , there is a plastic plug that can be removed , and there seems to be some electrical contacts in the hole . Is there something that plugs into this so you can adjust the MFA settings ?

Yeh the ABF block fit's straight in , it sits 15mm higher than the 1.8 , you just have to swap bits off the old block onto the new one. The timing belt has to be changed to a 2.0l one ( longer ),and you have to get a new top timing belt cover ( 2.0l one longer ).You use the 2.0l bottom timing cover not your old one ( 1.8 diffrent ) The 2.0l has knock sensors on the block so you take them off , and a timing sensor which you don't connect . Everything else is straight forward.

I had a 1.8 16v lump in mine to start with that was kicking 144bhp on the rollers , but broke the crank shaft . So i got hold of a complete 2.0 ABF block from a 150bhp golf , i kept the original head as i got told the cams are higher lift than the 2.0 , and the valves are bigger as well on the 1.8 head . Now the car feels to have alot more torque and a hell of alot more quicker too . what i would do is get you head worked , find a complete 2.0 ABF block , mate together and you should be well happy . I got my 2.0 block for £175 + you will need all gaskets It cost me around £300 all in , but saved on labour as i did it myself ( took approx 3 days )

The old man's corrado !!

What does rev counter go up to on a VR6 ?

My mate got some lockwood ones for his car ( not a c ) not long ago and he had to take the needle's off . If they do them slip over ones for the c then go for it .

I was going to fit some to mine either white or silver , but was put off by having to pull the needle's off the guages , when you put them back on the guages will never read accurate again !

30 psi all round works a treat , ive been running 17's at that for quite a few year's and had no tyre wearing probs , + thats what the tyre shop put's in them when ive bought new ones !!

They were easy enough to do , just time consuming . The ones in the console were worst cause you have to take the dash facia off . The LED's you can get from maplins ( you need resistor's to drop the voltage down ) and the defuser you can use blue insulation tape ( works well and dose'nt burn cause LED's dont get hot ). With the switches you take them apart , flick the green defuser out and replace with blue tape , i found the switch lights too dim so i replaced the bulb with 1.2w ones ( quite a pain to do ).

The dash light's are white with a green defuseing strip , the strip could be changed to blue , but would work better with brighter bulbs. the neon that i put in can be dimmed , but i found that when i did so the rest of the control lights were too dim , so i changed them with ultra white LED's with blue defusers. I also put some extra ones in the center console .

Not these lights , it's a neon strip in the top of the dash where the original lights go !!!

I had this a few months ago and found it was the wishbone (bottom arm) bushes , its the big round one to the rear of the car . Easy way to check (with the wheels on the ground) is get a long wheel brace with a socket on the end , put it onto one of your wheel nut's and lever downwards and upwards , as if you are tightening and un-tightening the wheel nut , but only moving it enough to check for play . If the wheel moves forwards and backwards in the wheel arch then chances are the bush is worn . you can also look from under the front of the car at the bush for play , as someone moves the wheel with the brace . Hope this helps