dr_mat
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Everything posted by dr_mat
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VR6 belt tensioner bearing replacement - how to.
dr_mat replied to PhatVR6's topic in Suppliers Forum
from?[/quote:7d0ed] A VW dealer near you.... -
Passenger side, remove the 6 screws holding the lower shelf in place, remove it, remove the two screws visible in the plastic panel directly in front of the door, and the single broad fixing to the front of this panel, and lo and behold. One ABS controller. But bear in mind if it's broken there's pretty much nothing you can do but replace it. If you're lucky and there's a corrosion problem on the contacts, then you'll have to find out where the water's come from!
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Steering problem - Possible MOT failure?? - Please help!!
dr_mat replied to daveh's topic in Drivetrain
Cheeky barstewards telling you that a "worn steering column" is a known fault. That's like telling you that worn tyres is a known fault. Put the column on another setting and take it to another garage for MOT. Tell VW to go screw themselves if they think you're paying £537+VAT for a new column... :roll: -
uneven acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear, kangarooing motion
dr_mat replied to Jay_vr6's topic in Engine Bay
95 VR6s don't have distributors. I'm guessing that the "trouble in 1st and 2nd gear" is a red herring, you have to assume it's running rough in general. Questions: does it idle well? does it pull well at full throttle? does it pull well at part load? When you say Judders, do you mean a judder relating to engine speed, or road speed? is it a judder you feel through the steering or the seat? is it noticeable in other gears, but much reduced? how does the engine behave off load? (i.e. in neutral if you rev it)? -
VR6 belt tensioner bearing replacement - how to.
dr_mat replied to PhatVR6's topic in Suppliers Forum
Now £60.57 + VAT -
Forget the power plot, you can't *feel* power, you *feel* torque. That's the force that's applied to the car, and that's what propels it. power is secondary. If the torque was genuinely dropping by 30-40 lbft above 5000 rpm then you'd know about it, big style.
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Clutch is 3hrs labour plus about £100 parts.
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Does it *feel* like the engine drops off at high revs? You'd easily notice if there was a drop such as you're seeing in the first graph. 142bhp @ wheels is a good figure, and is close to matching the output of most average VRs on the road...
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This matches pretty much what I've heard over the last few years. Autotek charge top prices, but they do seem to deal only in the good quality cars out there. I suppose you get what you pay for.
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Ok I can see why you'd want to own a manual instead of an auto, but I have to say the Auto Storms are rare enough that I'd be inclined to leave well alone... Anyway, it's your money! The other nine owners of auto storms will be thanking you for increasing the value of their cars... ;)
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http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... al+gearbox
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Funnily enough, someone posted exactly this information just a couple of days ago, hit the search button above and all will be revealed....
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I'm not insinuating anything, oh great Uber VW Meister... ;) I think the evidence speaks for itself!! :)
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Yep, that's the bunny. The 3.0 V6 30V audi engine is also around 205bhp, but it's got a lot more grunt and low down torque (as you'd expect) than the 2.8 VR6.
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That's great, a full-on "debate", and neither me NOR the haywire were directly involved!! And I thought this forum was dying off... ;)
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The engine code is stamped on the block... They are basically the same engine, but the 2.9 (ABV) is bigger bore, plus it has slightly different cams, inlet manifold and thottle body than the 2.8 (AAA). I'm not aware of any other differences though. The passat, bora, golf etc all use the AAA 2.8 engine, as do the Corrado SLCs in the USA. There are other localisations on the US engines, mainly for emission controls (such as the EGR valve, which I don't think the Euro engines have). Don't forget the Passat is also available with the Audi 3.0 V6 - a proper V engine, plus the later cars had the 24V 2.8VR6 engine.
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Well that's a bit short miles for a BJ, but it's certainly not unheard of. I wouldn't worry about it too much.
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Not a bad price at all. Yes, wear and tear. How many miles has your car got on it now? The car *may* have been kerbed on the driver's side to provoke more wear on the drivers joint than the passenger one, but most likely the passenger one got replaced previously (it's the one that takes the most wear, normally).
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That's pretty low, yeah. UK minimum wage is: Main (adult) rate for workers aged 22 and over £4.85 per hour from 1 October 2004 (an increase from £4.50 an hour) Development rate for workers aged 18-21 inclusive £4.10 per hour from 1 October 2004 (an increase from £3.80 an hour) So at current exchange rates that's about $8/hr.
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Hang on - your clutch is "on the floor"? The clutch usually only needs replacing if it's slipping, or vibrating cos it's worn unevenly or off-centre. Clutch not disengaging properly points to a clutch master/slave cylinder problem.
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As one person who took the flame-bait commented on the register today: "I was one of the people who voted for Bush. Am I happy about it? Hell no. I think he is a complete moron who isn't qualified to run around the block, much less run a country. So why would I vote for him? Because the Democrats, in all there glorified wisdom, couldn't come up with any choice better than a flip flopping wanker from Massachusetts and his wonder boy sidekick, the personal injury lawyer (who we all know are pillars of virtue). I have been looking forward to voting Dubya out of office since the day he was elected and instead I get a chance to choose between the lesser of two evils. And as is usually the case, people stick with the devil they know." That "flip flopping w@nker" managed to get 49% of the vote against the incumbent president, apparently just in an effort to vote GWB out...
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I'm not going to argue with you, because I can believe that the ECU might happily believe the MAF is fine when it's not. But there's plenty of reason to believe that an ECU fault code: "adaptation limit reached: air/fuel mixture" points to the MAF being faulty and the ECU knows that's what's wrong.
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You can read the paint code off the little sticker inside the boot, look it up on the ccgb web site: http://www.corradoclub.co.uk/tectips.html But then, if it's been resprayed it may not be the original colour...... :)
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If the MAF is bypassed by the ECU, that fact will show up on a VAG-COM scan.
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If the lambda is knackered you might expect problems under part throttle, and maybe overrun, but full throttle and idle shouldn't be affected, AFAIK.