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About Bruno

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    East Kent, United Kingdom


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  1. Only the Tailgate left now. Anybody need one? This one has no rust at all.
  2. Sold to Bails88. Thank you.
  3. From a 1994 Nov Corrado VR6, with 60,000 miles on the clock. Left over from a project to upgrade to leather. This lot has been in storage since the car was 3 years old. Clean, almost no blemishes, very little bleaching. Only been used for 3 years, then stored in a warm, dry, environment, wrapped. Door cards included. Note. 1. There is a 6mm hole in driver's squab, almost unnoticeable, seems to have been mechanically punched into place. See photo. Can be stitched shut or a black plastic cap inserted. 2. The compression lines on driver's squab can be brought out with a steam cleaner. They were caused by the other seat leaning on it whilst in storage. Kept safe and dry all this time. 3. The driver's door panel at the very top, window edge, has some vinyl shrinkage. Not noticeable when fitted (the window rubber covers it). 4. Door Speaker pods and trays also available for purchase separately £5 for the pair. Offer of £170 or more, collected, cash or Paypal - sold as is. Will respond to a courier. Happy to suggest a few. Already have four people thinking about this. Have bubble wrap. Can buy straps and a pallet if this needs to be collected by a courier and I'm needed to pack and wrap it. I recently did a similar exercise for easypops and the pallet+straps came to about £40. Said with respect: please only contact me in you are interested in buying this. Am not in the trade. This is from my car. Replaced it with an OEM leather suite. So this is waiting for a good home.
  4. Hi everybody. Easypops hasbought the original beige interior. The original listing has been updated as I've dug out more stuff which needs to go. Have a look again please.
  5. Items left 1. Beige door genuine leather panels for 1995 Corrado VR6. The passenger side tray has a small 1.2 cm x 0.4cm piece of plastic missing. If your tray is intact it should fit. See photo. Otherwise clean set - from the very last series of Storms, ones with the leds in the door pin carriers. £180*. 2. Beige Roof lining.. £20*. 3. A purple-grey 1995 tailgate, complete with aerofoil, plastics, and motor intact. No marks, no rust. £50.00* 4. 288mm front calipers, painted in red 2k paint, boxed, only used for 3 weeks. £50 plus p/p. NB: * refers to items which are priced at cash on collection. All located at Whitstable, Kent. Some items can be taken to Orpington, Kent if it is helps. Couriers are supported. Am willing to put the parts onto a pallet, if buyers allow for the cost of sealing and straps for the pallet. The calipers can be posted. I need the space back quickly. Selling home and moving. So it all has to go.
  6. As long as everything is working fine, its ok for now. If you do have problems, or are worried, then you will need access to the plug map, and wiring diagram. If you want those, please PM me. I'll email you copies of the diagrams.
  7. Hi. PM me. I have a VR6 bodyshell laid up in Whitstable with a rear beam still in place. any good to you?
  8. I looked up 1989. Thats the beginning. There are only two headlamp housings, one left, one right. Left is 535 941 131 Right is 535 941 132 The reflectors in LHD and RHD were slightly different, but the difference was negligible in the early model. In the later model they were very different because of the distance of the front lens from the reflector's centre of focus.
  9. Hi. Well its about to happen. I've had enough of stalling at lights and poor diagnostics. The change to OBD2 on my VR. I've read most of the threads that refer to this, and also Dennis' thread on Corrado Ca. It seems that apart from starting with the right bits, there are few hiccups along the way: 1. Removing and replacing the Servo. 2. Recalibrating the Throttle Boddy. 3. Proximity to the ignition pick up coil with the appropriate key. Bentleys sheds little light on the issues with (1), and wouldnt cover (2), and (3) seems relatively easy to address. Coming up with a good, well spliced and wrapped loom is not an issue for me. So.... ------are are there issues which I need to watch out for? Any advice on how to handle (1) and (2) and the rest you can think of?
  10. I know two people who claim it can be done. I dont believe them. There's too much you need to check at the same time that also goes wrong. Its not just the exchange unit, its the bowden cables, etc - all of these are worth sorting if you take the time and want not to bother with nonsense in months to come. Remember - its an old car.
  11. Sort that out in reverse order of common logic, ie: 1. Pull the blower out and check it. If it runs, then the chances are that the fuse has gone. 2. If thats OK then the painful part starts. Pull out the controls and switch and find out where the power failed. 3. The fact that you said it doesnt work - I assumed it didnt on all four speeds. If it works on speed 4, then the thermistor on your speed control resistor pack has gone. Its a common fault. Go to maplins and get the thermistor, then have fun replacing it. Or you can buy another one from the stealers
  12. Do the filter. Go fill up with fresh fuel. Put in the cleaner. Do both at the same time with a really hot engine, ie the cat at full temp. Dont load fuel system cleaner onto a cold cat. There's no need to consider getting a new lambda probe unless your fuel consumption has been wildly out or the performance has been naff.
  13. The light on the US/LHD version plays a different role to the one on the RHD version. In our version it has no part in the trigger of the ABS relay, just offering a status of whether the ABS brain has taken control of the pump. So: - before you start the engine to listen for the sound of relays behind glove box kicking in. - if you dont hear the sound, then it may be that the ABS brain hasnt engaged; - if you hear it wait and then kick in, then the ABS brain has engaged; if it then clicks again, it means that the pump has not completed its comms with the brain, and the brain has turned off to prevent damage to the valves. Putting a new bulb is relatively easy, pull the lamp holder, carefully take it apart, and check the bulb for continuity. Once you are sure it has failed, one can obtain the bulb from an RS (Radiospares) spares dealer or, failing that, an LED with a resistor should be used to replace it. Not a big deal, but it does take time to get the bulb. If I remember correctly its unusual, something like 3.2v.... Try and borrow a vagcom and put it on the diagnostic port and see if you get any abs fault readouts. clear them, and check again. If a fault appears, you need to follow tha. Hey- you really should be proud of yourself, you are unlikely to get this again for a long time. One small thing. Get a bottle of copydex solution and paint the joints upon the pipes you had recently replaced - both the metal pipe ends and caliper ends. It produces a milky waterproof, rubberised surface that dries to an almost transparent state. It prevents further corrosion. You can use to cover any surface which is exposed to water but you need to protect. When you need to open the nuts one can grab the rubber coating and just tear it off.
  14. Fair point Pete. My post was really quite silly. Although I wasnt confused about the servo and ABS systems, I made an even more silly mistake. - I didnt make it plain that the point of running the engine was to warm the back hubs to enable the balance to settle, the new pads to takeup the undulations of the disc...but that would mean driving it for 10 mins... Old rear hubs can be a problem. The way I wrote it- it would give the impression :cuckoo: that by running the engine in gear - somehow the back wheels would be turning Sorry about that folks. Please put it down to being tired and getting old and stupid.
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