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Bruno

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Bruno last won the day on May 30

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About Bruno

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    East Kent, United Kingdom

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  1. Agreed. The nozzle isnt going to make a difference. The same specific FPR is used on a Saab 9-5 in stage III, >300bhp, with no problems at all. Fendervg is right, this isnt a simple error. The 02 sensor feeds back the fuelling trim to the ECU. If the engine winds its idle speed up and down, or dies when dropping to idle, it could be that. I'd start by having the injectors out and having them tested and cleaned. Any good motorbike tuning place should have that kit.
  2. @CRESSA got the VAG part number for the camber adjusting bolts? Doesn't seem to be in ETKA - for Corrados or MK3s. Still flummoxed by why mine were fine before I changed the bits - and now so off that the wheels rub.
  3. Well. Thats an interesting point. I've just pulled off the wishbones, driveshafts and track rod ends. All of them match up perfectly with OEM products. Before I took all this off, the car didnt have a problem with camber, or with the wheels fouling. @MJA.I'll PM you. Need to understand what you did....
  4. Agreed. That tends to be the culprit. When you open the switch and clean it, fill it, and the socket pins with silicone grease. Stops oxygen accessing the contact, prevents it happening again.
  5. five common causes of what you have (below). It can be a combination of these: Spark plug leads Cam position sensor throwing spurious errors. Lambda probe knackered or covered in oil. Leaking valve stems and/or leaking pistons on Cylinders 1 or 6. Get a compression tester test for valve leaks and piston ring blowback. ABVs tend to go through valve stems faster than AAA engines. Fuel pump weak. Given what you've described, I'd go down the list in the order given above.
  6. Right - thats three of you pointing to the bolts. Bought some camber adjustment bolts just in case. Will report back when I've stripped it all down again
  7. Need to clarify something. A lot seems to have been written about updating the 5 stud rear stub axles present on VR6s with stub axles and hubs from the the Polo. As I understand it, the 6N has a stub axle that bolts straight onto the Corrado beam. It can then mate with the 9N's 5 stud hub (which seemingly comes with a cartridge bearing that slips straight onto the 6N stub axle). One can then fit a 256mm vented disc, and bolt on Mk4 TT calipers - or so it seems. First came across this on vwvortex - (23) The Corrado g60/VR6 Brake Bible: The Rears | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum. What is less clear: a) Whether the Corrado VR6 rear abs sensor will fit into the 6N stub axle without drama. b) How best to source the correct type of ABS reluctor ring to fit onto the 9N hub. c) Which backplate does one fit? The Corrado one? None? Passat B4? Got the part numbers? Has anybody got through these hurdles? Thanks.
  8. Well, its not the shocks. Thank you Cressa- mine come up with the same measurement. Not the strut bolts (they are OEM, unchanged). It isnt the springs - wheel arch at its highest point is 240mm (not surprisng for new springs). However excessive negative camber is obvious now the car's suspension has settled overnight. I dont think she needs camber bolts because she's never had an accident - I've had her since since new. Not the bearing carriers (also OEM, unchanged). So this points to the wishbones or the driveshafts. Wishbone part numbers match up correctly. Will take the driveshafts off on Tuesday to compare with the original ones.
  9. Thanks will measure tomorrow. Cant really guage camber from just looking at it right now.
  10. They can be removed with the screen in place. Best to purchase the entire kit. Mine was screwed up by the fitters trying to refit the original ones and cracking them in the process.
  11. @MJA. Looks like the wishbones are the right ones. Still have their packing labels and bags. So back down to the shocks and driveshafts. This site THE Mk2 Golf Definitive Wide Tracking Thread | Club GTI suggests that the Plus axle - which the VR6s have - is 22-24mm wider on each side. Now that distance would be exactly the amount that my tyres are encroaching on the shocks. Will know in the morning. Sorry about the drama guys. Thanks for being there.
  12. That looks like 12.5cm to the centre of that bolt from the spring pan base and 20cm to the strut base. I'm at the car in the morning. Will measure up. Thanks @Cressa. @Dox. Unfortunately silly me threw out the old struts before noticing the problem. Not my finest hour. @MJA.! Actually the monotubes are different. Just look the same on the outside. Entirely different structure. However you have a point on the wishbones. I did also change the wishbones t the same time. Just assumed the wishbones from Epytec would be good Querlenker Satz inkl. verstärkte Koppelstangen VW Corrado Golf 3 Vento VR6 GTI 16V | Epytec.de. So, darn, a third variable. I'll have to talk to them. @Cressa. Would you have the time to measure the wishbone distance from the centre of the front bolt to the inside bolt at the bottom of the bearing carrier (there are three there, I'm looking for the length to the base of that ball joint, so the one thats closest to the inside, not the two on the outside, if you get my drift)
  13. During the clean up of the front end, changing parts which should have been routine, I ended up with the tyres fouling the spring pan. These items were changed: 1. Refurbed engine cross member. 2. New Driveshafts (ebay parts from LandR) 3. New Bilstein B4 shocks with OEM springs Kept the original steering rack, bearing carrier but did change all the ball joints in sight for OEM ones. Cleaned up the ARB. All went back on really nicely until I fitted the Speedlines (which had my original spec tyres). Two things stood out immediately as I was torquing up: Whilst still on axle stands the tyres tucked in under the spring pan of the strut, with only 0.5" to spare vertically. When the car was on the ground, the front wheels rubbed the spring pan. Haven't even tried turning the steering wheel! 🤡 I might be losing it, but I could swear that she sits much lower than she should when resting on OEM spec tyres. It seems to me that either the shock absorbers are wrong (not enough distance between the bearing carrier bolts and the base of the spring pan) or the driveshafts are short. It could be both! Both suppliers swear blind that they sent me the right products... IIRC the VR6 shafts are mean to be longer than the others meant for the Corrado but I'm currently leaning towards thinking this is a problem with the B4s. Unfortunately I dont have my original shocks any more. So cannot measure up. Do however still have my original driveshafts, so this weekend intend to take it all off again and measure up. Normally I go about my business restoring the car quietly. This one has surprised me. Researched this to the hilt before I bought the parts. Yet am facing an embarrassing mess. Any one of you guys ever experienced anything like this before? The car is not lowered (not intentionally anyway). The steering rack is original. The only non-OEM parts are the B4 shocks, poly bushes for the struts, the front springs, and the LandR driveshafts. As I see it, even if the springs were wrong, the crucial distances are determined by: The struts. If the pan to base distance is wrong the tyres would foul. The driveshafts. If too short, the tyres would be pulled further under the struts. Ideas? Does any one have an OEM setup and knows the following measurements - or can get to them quickly: From the base of the strut (the very bottom) to the base of the spring pan (where it welds onto the main shaft)? The driveshaft - any side - from the flange on the gearbox to the base of the bearing nut? One or all of these could be out. I need to know who to call and get a replacement part....
  14. No pic yet but if you want it and can pick it up by this Friday from Whitstable in Kent for £60 it's yours! PM me
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