StueyB

Spotted some via German Ebay but pricey... ...do you want the link?

If i see any for sale i'll drop you a pm.

Tis a wink saying that i still have them but unfortunately I don't want to sell them. :D I was merely being a git. Apologies. Hoarding parts for some front and back end paint work. Something along the lines of this: + some US spec action.

:wink:

i know what you mean about doing it good and taking your time with it... and much appreicated, i still need to get a couple of bits off you, so will have to come over and take you out in it :) Around over the weekend if you wanna swing down, my lockups a little way from mine in Flitwick so could take a drive up. :wink: Whats bits were you after again...?

Diesel Corrado with guns. I think that says it all really, hats off to you chap. Love it.

I must say the Comp's look amazing mate, better than i thought they would on any rado. I know most on here like the look of a fair bit of tyre but i must say the 205/40 falkens look perfect for me. As far as the heater matrix goes, i've been there, its a ball ache and always seems to happen at the wrong time. However after f-ing, blinding and generally freezing on christmas eve doing mine the dash went back in so much better than before and so many less rattles to boot. Really is a good opportunity to rewire everything perfectly and make sure everything fits snug and all bolts/screws are up tight. If you haven't done one before my advice is take your time as its defo something you won't want to do again. Cars a personal fav of mine on this forum, so keep up the hard work.

It didn't bring me out in a sweat. I fitted 100% genuine VW parts throughout my whole suspension revamp, as I invariably do. Sorry if you don't like other people having opinions, but I find £4 for a nut excessive (not in the £1200 cost of my front end revamp, but yes, for a nut it occurred to me that it was quite pricey!) We all know that VW prices are made up, no one is doubting the quality. If I'm not mistaken the original poster was asking for opinions on bolts, if you really believe that Febi bolts are not good enough on a stock VR6 (not one with 350 plus turbo horses) then, in my opinion, you have lost touch. Febi are not renowned for making crap. Its a bolt, it meets a spec. Funnily enough, the last VR6 head job I did, I used a Victor Reinz gasket, from GSF. Because I didn't see the point in paying VW 4 times as much for the same item. Oh and INA lifters for the same reason. There was a factor of three difference in GSF prices versus VW. My original post was indeed asking opinions on bolts, and in most part that is what i have received so thanks. As i'm sure a lot of you are aware including Andy above it is possible to source O.E. parts from sources other than VW themselves, a lot of the time the parts VW use aren't VW made so therefore the 'geniune' prices they quote seem ridiculous when in some cases you can pop up the road to the likes of GSF / ECP and order the same part if not an item of equal quality for 3 times less...who in their right mind in the current climate isn't going to do that...? It was my expectations of the VW head bolt prices that shocked me. Double GSF/ECP price was expectation but triple and some, in this case i just don't understand where they get that figure from? I also realise then when the terms 'GSF' or 'ECP' parts gets thrown around, this is not strictly true as its refering to a vast range of parts manufacturers that they stock. However having first hand experience of 'unknown branded' GSF parts and reading multiple sources on here saying the same thing regarding Reinz, the previous HAS made me 'fussy' regarding gaskets. GSF have fallen foul of selling sub standard gaskets in the past but have now ditched them for Reinz gear. Prices have stayed roughly the same yet the quality has gone up to almost / if not 'geniune' standard. I ask you which gasket manufacturer would you choose for the same price....? I can apply the exact same situation to to CV joints & kits. I'm currently running fully refurbished driveshafts with GKN outers and geniune VAG inners. If i'm not mistaken Mr Haywire, the same GKN joints your running. Any reason why you didn't go fully genuine on these? I'd hazard a guess at it being exactly the same reason as your arguing against above.

Shocking indeed. Thats what happened to my bro's when he torqued them up. May give them a call tomorrow, just for shits and giggles. I don't think this is quite true but not far off. You would - Mr Sellout. Appreciate the offer but thats a little strong for me. Understand a fair amount of duff info floats around forums so defo take with a pinch of salt but my brother's experience (SAAB Tech) was exactly as I've read online so i would imagine there is some truth in this. Yet x2. Mine failed at only 300 hp.[/quote:1nd4k0b3] Haha i don't think i'll have to worry about that then...is an N/A 300bhp VR possible? Thanks for all the advice, knowledge and personal experience peoples, I have gone for some Febi ones (to accompany my Victor Reinz HG kit) from ECP @ the grand total of £27.01 + free shipping. Thats a total saving of £81.19. Quite funny really and if all goes wrong then I can stomach a £27 hit for the sake of trying them. That and my bro loves taking heads off VR's. :lol:

Have searched for this topic coming up before can't find a definitive answer. After a rather shocking call to VW Bedford to price up some genuine head bolts I was a little shocked to find out the price: 021 103 384 E (7) - £4.27 each 021 103 384 D (10) - £4.39 each 021 103 384 F (3) - £6.10 each These are pre-vat prices also, sounded ok until the parts guy did the maths.... ....£108.20 inc VAT. Bearing in mind I had GSF / Euro Car Parts prices in my head of around £30/40 i was a little shocked to find out the above. So doesn't anyone know 'who' makes the genuine (read over priced) head bolts in the same way that Victor Reinz make equivalent gaskets...? I'm a little afraid of using GSF bolts from my bro's experience on his Golf VR and many others i've read online. ECP sell Febi ones...are these any better quality...? I've also have opportunity to buy some ARP head bolts off a friend having originally thought these may be over kill for a mild tune N/A VR but i'm starting to think if Gen bolts are that expensive why not...? Any advice / help / experience greatly received. Stu

You can get blue leads from various sources, none of which are 'standard' i don't think. Black & Red being OEM. I'm currently running some Blue Igniters leads which I sourced from the US. They can be bought from C&R Enterprises in the UK, they just happened to be waiting on a shipment when enquired so I went straight to the source. Highly recommend for quality and performance.

Got to admit I bought it like that. Was looking at doing my own but dropped on that for a very reasonable sum so I just had to have it. Look out on the bay as they crop up frequently. If you don't mind would pm me what you paid for it? Or if you comfortable just post it up.

Thanks for all the kind words guys, bit of a team effort really between myself, my father and my house mate. Its a rather good talking point for anyone who pops round. Its also funny watching people's faces as they walk in not knowing and then generally proceed to proclaim " WTF! ". :lol: To answer some questions: Not entirely sure...a lot less now its minus the crank and pistons (as purchased). Can be lifted by one person. Have contemplated doing a VR6 table but the shape of the block doesn't lend itself as well the V8. And no you can't have my rug. :lol: These aren't HDR shots as i still haven't upgraded to 4.1 yet. Am very impressed with the camera on the 4 a world apart from the 3G(S) camera. My best piece of advice on using it is to keep it completely still, sounds obvious but really is the key. Most of these shots are taken by resting it on something, floor, sofa arm, boxes etc etc... A couple have had a little 'treatment' in Photoshop but over half I haven't touched, merely resized and framed. Is indeed a Rover V8, not sure how i tell if its early or not, came out of a landy. Little short for time now so full details to follow very shortly i promise.

Been meaning to do a little write up on this for some months now but i thought it was rather pointless without some decent pictures so this afternoon I found some time to test out the new improved iPhone 4 camera as well as snap the talking point piece of furniture in my living room. Full how-to-write up to follow but for now some pics, enjoy! Comments and questions welcomed.

This may not entirely solve your problem and a problem which by now I assume you have solved but my advice may be of use to others in the same situation. Speaking from experience and by experience I mean having to dispose of three shells from various different locations. Each location in which the car was broken was not suitable for 'the scrap man' to collect from and so consequently the shell had to be moved. Each time we did this we actually found a better method, and by better i mean less back breaking. Method No.1 - Shell No.1: Requirements: 2 x Long scaffold poles 4 x Strong human beings Some time. Method: Place one of the two scaffold poles underneath the chassis legs at the front of the vehicle perpendicular to the legs themselves. Strap the pole to each of the legs so i can't move around. Apply the same theory with the other pole underneath the rear section of the car in the rear axle position. Strap up through the petrol tank hole or where ever you see suitable. Grab three friends, one man/woman/he-she/pet on each corner and lift shell out to required pick up point. In our case this was out from under a lean-to, down a drive way, through a gate and into a car park. Total Move Time: Approx 1hr Method No.2 - Shell No.2 Requirements: 2 x Trolley jacks (with wheels) 1 x heavy duty metal skate 2x human beings Method: Once stripped, jack rear end of the shell on to the heavy duty metal skate, we happened to have one of these lying around from a previous project and it had been adapted to move all manor of heavy objects over the years. A suggestion could be to 'borrow' a bread stack skate or even fashion one yourself. When the rear end has been lowered on to the skate, take both trolley jacks to the front of the shell, one on each side and lift the chassis legs onto each of the jacks. Jack them both up at the same time to raise the front of the shell to match the rear. Once level, use the jack handles to pull the shell towards you. A third person could be utilised to push from the rear to avoid it sliding off the jacks but this method worked with just two of us. This method however is only really suitable for use on flat concrete type surfaces were wheels will roll. Method 1 was carried out of gravel and so in that situation this method would not have been suitable. Total Move Time: Under 30 mins (as this was all we had before the scrap man arrived - panic was not the word.) Method No.3 - Shell No.3 Requirements: 1 x Carpet Roller 2 x Rachet Straps 2 x Human Being (although i would imagine possible with one) Method: Probably the most ingenious of the the three methods and came to me by complete accident. After seeing a carpet roller at a friends place (works in the trade) I for some reason thought it would make a great car shell mover. Big inflatable tyres, strong metal frame for holding a tonne of carpet and light enough to be transported to where the shell lie. Looking back, a carpet roller isn't far off what bodyshops and car manufacturers use to paint / prep / build cars. Simple method this, jack the car high enough to get the carpet roller underneath, line up roughly in the middle to take the weight evenly. We attempted to balance it when on the roller to ensure the middle point was roughly achieved (our roller was only a two wheel jobbie). Rachet strap down through the door holes and down across the shell floor, looping through the roller frame. Once secure tip up to balance and bob's your uncle's mother's brother's cousin. Wheel the shell around to your hearts content, up hills and down dales. Total move time: Under 15 mins (to our astonishment). Priority with any of this is safety, thats not to say we didn't have fun doing the above. Hope that helps any one thinking of undertaking the task without serious lifting gear. (which i know we all have lying around.) :D Stu

Enjoyin' watching the progress on this David. Your doing everything i wanted Ed to do to it but sadly didn't. Keep up the good work and i'll love to swing by some time and have a natter as i work in Northampton during the week.

I wish mate. Wheels from over the years. I think proof that a subtle wheel whores sticker in my window is valid.

I've used BJV on many occasions and not once have i been disappointed with the results. Very reasonable on price and I firmly recommend them but I'll let the pictures do the talking: From this: to this: From this: to this: From this: to this: From this: to this: I've also had the following refurbed by them:

There appears to be a couple of VR6 lamba's available as i went to use one from an early ish car ('93) on my late VR ('95) and the plugs and lengths were different. Ended up buying the correct new one which was probably the better idea but isn't a case of one size fits all for these engines without changing looms. Have also seen a few 'botched' attempts on car's i've broken which have blatently had the wrong lamba fitted, cut and solder to work. Date: Bosch Part No: Wires: Length: Plug: 92 - 10.94 0258003267 4 610 Flat 4 Pin 11.94 - 95 0258003604 4 650 Rounded Edge 4 Pin

Thanks AJ. Am chuffed with the arches, have seen a fair few sets of rolled / flattened and none have been done to this standard. I think the key with these is he's actually old skool panel beaten them flat and shaped as he went. Wheels are indeed OZ Exclusives, bought them off here on a whim, my bro took one look at them and said i'll have them. Quick refurb down @ BJV and bingo. Unfortunately can't fit the standard centre caps because the lug for the cap has been machined off. Thinking i can probably get some Compomotive style push in caps to finish them off. Really old skool cool wheel tho.

On a bit of a roll at the mo so thought why stop now, lets get some more bits in. Something borrowed, something blue. Stolen mariojoshi's smoked headlamp protectors, rather snazzy and so simple to fit/remove. Gunna buy myself some clear ones to protect my mint lenses from motorway abuse, really surpised i've not cracked one yet since replacing an original a while back. Due to a rather special 24v all singing all dance rado being broken at the mo, i decided to nick one of his trick mods and with the car being aqua blue it was perfect. Out with the s2000 aerial and in with the rather appropriate new scirocco shark style fin. Less dodgy looking than the beamer jobbies. Will get pics of actually item when its fitted, will have to remove headling shortly anyway to fix my sunroof wiring so thought why not change this at the same time. Latest stuff i've fitted: Audioscape Pods & Genesis Comps - really loving these, bedding in nicely too. Alpine XDA-301 - seriously awesome bit of kit with its iPhone integration & charging, never a flat battery again. Also gave the car a well over due clean this weekend, hadn't been done since before Tunisia, dusty as a mofo. My fav mod so far: And finally got some nice arch work shorts too (really a testament Martin @ MH Autos in Bletchley): Currently rolling around on my bro's OZ's, think they suit the car well considering its a temp fix due to the BBS incident: Oooooo and the replacements: How the car looks as of May '10: A stark difference from this:

Gunna take more than a t-cut to sort it aswell, check out the rear arch panel: Want some XJ220 wheels bad tho.

Cheers Ben, Apparently they are BBS VZ 023 to be precise, few variations.

Despite spending a fair few pennies on some nice audio bits that didn't seem to stop things breaking this month. Had an incident with a stray brick / rock in the road recently and managed to do this: Literally written off a perfectly good set of BBS VZ's unless i can find a replacement (which is proving difficult). Not a happy chappy. However having seen this pop up on the forum recently and wanting a set for ages, i made the purchase for when i have the front and rear ends smoothed and resprayed. Spotted this in Aldi when i was helping buy cheap air tools - made me chuckle. And my brother recently purchased one of these, should be interesting. Thats all folks. :lol:

Can confirm this. You may have trouble with the runner fitment also.