KarlosG60

Hi, After cluster gauge replacement, I listened again electrical noises at the start-time first try. I listen it carefully and I think it is the relay 80. So I don't know if the new fuel pump (another thing I replaced before the cluster gauge), maybe using different voltages or something else and the relay it's too old to manage them, so I thought about changing the relay. VW Classic Parts don't have it, so I called my Volkswagen dealer and they have one in stock by 50 euros. I search the relay reference (191906383C) and I found Hella brand by 15 euros. So, it is risky to buy the Hella, or it's more risky to buy a VW original relay which we don't know when was made?

Is it possible to move this topic to other subforum to avoid missing it? Or maybe I can open a new one to make a quick resume of what happen in my cluster gauge and how I solved?

Keyo 👍 And to finally close this thread, the solution was found another complete cluster and mount it. The specialist (Auto Control Barcelona) said to me it was the PCB, but they don't really care about finding one, new or used, because since I get it back from them (after 3 weeks of no news) and find and bought another complete gauge, past two f****** days. So, yes, they waste my time and money to tell me what I already know... Anyway, I had fixed this issue. I hope this cluster don't fail and keep me going to return to life my loved G60. Regards to all of you guys helped me about it.

Hi Keyo, Thanks for your message. Excuse me for delaying on my response. So yes, I know how to use ETKA. It saves a lot of time searching pieces. I also search the piece in VW Classic Parts and yes, they have it, is the reference 535 919 042, which costs 535.17€ + shipping. So... Yeah, GL... 😅 Hopefully I found a complete cluster gauge in Spain in very good conditions. Today I test it and it works fine. The RPM works, the MFA works... The only thing is the mileage (mine +200000 kms VS this w/ 143000kms) but well, maybe I will do what you say about sending it to cluster specialist to set it up my mileage.

They still searching for a used PCB for my cluster gauge. I don't know where they are searching, but this is a thing that I can do it better, I think. So this week is the last one. If they don't find anything I will pick my gauge from them and find someone else or maybe search/bought new PCB by myself.

I found this one. Not sure if is the correct one (too expensive): https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/leiterplatte-mit-gehaeuse-fa56d9.html But it is 100% necessary to change this? There are some fix or something? (Instead buying a whole used cluster gauge, I mean)

NEWS: I called to workshop. They told me that the CPU of the motherboard is dead and they try to find new MOBO to fit in. But they can't find anything (and they have more work to do, of course). So I told them that I can search too for someone.

I don't know what is CTA. The idle valve?

Correct. Did you check it out? That was the first thing I think about when I see and listen the video.

Did you try dealing with a specialized workshop?

Sounds to me like a problems/holes in the exhaust line.

Hi guys, A little updateto this thread after my holidays. Just back from workshop specialized in cluster gauges in Barcelona. The man said that is very strange how my cluster was broken, but in any case he will look and check it and during next week he will call me to say me something about.

Oops, ok, thanks

The problem with that type of things it is necessary to check carefully before cut it or pull it out. This car had an audio system "enhancement" (very poor and homemade) which I had to remove, maybe this switch it's part of it. Well, this is not a priority right now, but the cluster gauge displays.

I have another question, because long time ago found this at fusebox: But this will be on another thread. I only need to know if this wire and switch it's original or not to pull it out and clean the zone.

Ok, let's make an update. I bought this silicone grease: It's not dielectric, but I search a lot of info about differences between silicone grease and dielectric grease and are a few minor differences. My choice was silicone grease because the price: https://www.amazon.es/Silverhook-SGPGT90-Grasa-Silicona-Tubo/dp/B00W6Q3B1G/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_es_ES=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=silicone+grease&qid=1599054107&sr=8-1 1: Main battery ground to frame(1xshaunx1’s pic) Greased. 2: transmission bolt to frame 3: intake manifold to firewall This was fixed long time ago (this ground was missing when I bought the car). I refixed anyway: 4: firewall to hood hinge 5: ground “bus” above relay/fuse box I think this ground is fine and I not repair and grease it because the working lamp and my phone are gone. So this ground is not fixed, but I repeat I see it very well. Anyway, tomorrow I will fix like the others (dismount, sanding thread, replace nut)

It's strange to me, because the cluster always works fine. It's true that the car is out of the road since 2010, but every time I run it, clocks works fine. It only fails after the fuel pump was replaced. I don't know. Have you fixed the main grounds? Not yet. Throughout this week I will buy some stuff and fix some of them. Fuel and water temp are working fine. I read the Bentley's and the voltage stabilizer it's for this gauge only, if I didn't mistaken the translation the Bentley to my language. I search for some videos at YT, but I don't trust myself to check the voltage of my cluster gauge. Thanks guys.

I was thinking about my issue this weekend. What relation can exists between the electrical noise from fuel pump relay, with the dead of my cluster gauge? A noise only heard in the first tries after the fuel pump has been replaced and also, last day when I connected all the wires from it when I was discarding the origin of the cluster dead. How this fuel pump works in the very first turn on try? Maybe I make a mistake with the fuel pump? I bought it new from VWClassicParts.

At as I know this grease does not conduct electricity, so it shouldn’t be applied directly to the mating surfaces (pins and sockets) of an electrical connection 🤔. I am right? Maybe a grease like Liqui Moly 3140, which conducts electricity it's better ?

For the record: Accelerator body valve in intake manifold was changed and solved most of the problems, but not at high road temperatures (+45C) and heavy traffic. Anyway, the car is out of the road for 10 years. I write about that rpm problems in heavy traffic like it happens yesterday 😅

I had the car since 2007. That wire it's always missing (I forgot about that). But it's true it always got problems in idle rpm's and 3 cylinder running at high temperatures. In the past I fixed other grounds I found broken or missing. That one I don't trust it fix the gauge problem, because it works since I bought it, but I will fix it, for sure. Yes

That's all for now guys. I'm really stuck right now, I don't know what to do. Buying another cluster gauge it's expensive and very risky if I got a short or something who can broke clusters gauges. Thank you for your help. Regards P.S: Another picture of what I got when I put OFF / ON the battery ground. a.jsdasdpeg

After mounted all the fuel pump wires and hoses, I try to run the engine to ensure all is correct. This is what it happens at the fuse and relay box. After many tries to run the engine, finally I got it, and this electrical noise disappears. So, if we look at the first post: This noise again!!! It means that relay can broke my cluster gauge?? Is this possible???

Other thing I did is to disconnect the fuel pump completely. Not only the connector under the fuel tank cover, also including the level indicator. 4 wires and 1 connector in total. The cluster stills not working with that test done.

When I go to check if it cluster gauge works, nothing happens... unless now I have permanently ON the right indicator lamp and the right indicator doesn't works. This is because the right light position it's ON and I cannot put it off. So I pull out the relay and pull it in again... I don't remember all the things I did, but in a one of those tests, the cluster gauge ignition key lamp works when I turn the key on that position: In other of these tests, I have the two direction indicators ON: At this point I am stuck, but I found a missing wire ground rolled on the left suspension cover. So I unrolled: I don't know what is this, but it's very long and come from the inside of the car: So, with the cluster gauge with the two directions lights ON, I put this missing ground to the battery ground and magically, they put it OFF.