Dox

Mine did exactly that, once warm worked fine, changed the pedal sensor for a refurbed one and all's good.

Can't see the pics for some reason..?

I've looked several times and can't see them either.

How about trying ebay?

House for sale brings up 1,364 results

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xhouse+for+sale.TRS0&_nkw=house+for+sale&_sacat=0

Stp53

VR6 280mms are the same, Golf, Vento, Corrado, all now 20 years old so best to go for recon?

I think the car is priced to sell quickly, but this isn't the best place to sell it as most already have a Corrado.

Loans are cheap ATM so it may be worth holding on to the C as the values are increasing at a better rate than you'd get in the bank?

GLWS

Will a vr6 lump fit under the bonnet of an early corrado? Mine obviously doesn't have the raise bonnet bulge like the later ones.

Cheers in advance

No

If you go on the wolfsburg auto Museum website, there should be a page on there somewhere. I'll put the links up when I get home if you like. It's not cheap, but adds to the history of the vehicle and it was a price I was willing to pay for knowing! I got the data sheet too which if I'm honest, I wouldn't recommend paying the extra for. I'll post a pic of that later too to show what it includes, which isn't any more than is in the back of the owners manual.

http://automuseum.volkswagen.de/en/certificates-and-data-sheets.html

will sort a better advert at some point, trying to get round missis to letting me keep both,coz not many round with that kind of miles,shes not having it a the moment so far.

I've got 2, the plan was to run them alternate years, run one and fettle the other then swap around the following year.

There's no interest on your money in the bank so your money is in a good place if you can keep running costs down?

My car doesn't have those codes on the boot sticker either?

How do you go about getting the certificate?

Why not just copy and paste the original advert and add a few bits to it that you've done?

Use the Tapatalk app to post the pics off your phone.

It's not an outrageous price anyway if the car is nice?

Still thinking of getting rid then?

I'd struggle to part with something that looked like that

Lmb50

I'd check the wiring inside the trunking from the body to the hatch for breakages and shorts circuits

Thanks guys. Yep, I did do the pedal sensor as well.....

That was the final piece that fixed mine (pump, sensors, ecus etc all changed) after I swapped it with an overhauled unit.

Have you scanned the ABS system?

Have you replaced the pedal position sensor on the servo? You seem to indicate the fault is pedal sensitive?

3 are the ones that hold the carrier to the stub axle which usually get damaged removing them (hammering the allen key all the way to the bottom of the bolt helps as does a quality allen key), 4 are usually in the box with new pads.

Hi Dox

I just wanted to say thank you for posting your the code. I've managed to secure some invaluable parts for my vr saving a small fortune thanks to your great code.

You're welcome

Mrc50

You can get away without the windback tool but it is a fiddle, push a little, turn the piston 90 degrees clockwise, push, turn 90, etc etc For the turn I used an old angle grinder key.

I've got this kit, good value with L/H and R/H winding tools

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19pcs-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Rewind-Wind-Back-Tool-Kit-Universal-Car-Auto-/222247761580?hash=item33beffb6ac:g:cUsAAOSwFdtX1mCg

I buy all my stuff from AVS VW (http://www.vwspares.co.uk/), always been massively helpful and prices are great as well, and if its VW specific he usually just gets it direct from VW and saves me the hassle of an hours round trip to collect the parts. As for make if Febi is available I always go with them, I often find its better quality than the OEM stuff, certainly a million times cheaper!

I'm lucky that my road going car is ex Isle of Man so corrosion of the underpinnings is quite light (no road salt used in winter) compared with the non runner UK storm which is very grotty in comparison, so I only replace the minimum as I find OE VW stuff lasts at least twice as long as febi / lemforder on my MK4 Golf based cars that I've run for the last 15 years or so (golf, Toledo, Octavia, a3 etc)

I had a great local dealer, always wanting me to bring the car in, always interested in it, and they were building a mk1 scirocco from a bare shell in the workshop for the directors son.

 

VW closed it a few years back now, i miss it.

It sounds like the dealer I used to use, closed because the site wasn't big enough for a glass palace.

In fairness to the parts dept I'd bet 80% of enquiries for older cars end up with the caller going to Europoo, because of the prices and also in our case parts being obsolete too?

Most people who go to work in the car trade start out as enthusiasts but end up like the rest of us going to work to pay our bills, they do say never turn your hobby / interest into your occupation?

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/battery-isolators-master-switches

If you leave the earth connected to the shell there's always a potential for a short to ground, that's why its preferable to disconnect the earth first when removing the battery.

I think the battery posts are slightly different diameters too?

A 10mm spanner velcro'd to the battery is probably a neater solution?