Alex_G60_Fanatic

if its just the brown leather and trim details your wonting, could you not just get the existing seats re-upholstered? it wouldn't be as expensive as buying a new interior... just a thought also saves you having to build a frame and fill the foam gaps between the rear seats. theres a plce in Edinburgh that can re-upholster a car in any shade of leather you can think of a fit it all in a day :shrug:

ok, saw a dark pearl green C driving out of Dryburgh Industrial estate today at about 6ish.. that must have been you? i was waving but i was in a small green Polo :(

lol did you seriously do this, lol. least you know next time not to take out your starter motor to replace the alternator 8)[/quote:2x5rg1br] i know, im a foolish man.... :lol: i must have been asleep when i did it, i blame TV

Im an idiot..... :lol: Was trying to test the starter motor to see if that was the problem to it not starting.... went to it and tapped the terminal with a jump lead attached to the battery.. nothing So i disconnected it from the circuit and tapped again, still nothing SOOO i decided to rip it out... so i did. surprisingly easy i thought.... to take out such a integral component. :| Would anyone like to see what i removed???????? Photo-0003.jpg[/attachment:3n8tszwx] I got half way bk from the garage to home before i twigged.... id just removed the alternator :| :brickwall: i have ZERO idea what was going through my mind while i was trapping alternators instead of motors... its got a fly wheel for gods sake! :lol: Sooo 2 hours of fiddling has produced no answers and at least 30mins of re-attaching alternators.....

not unless you've been driving down St clements place in st mary's, my C is currently off rd and was on the drive for a while. was a black g60 with 15" silver Fox alloys. You wont see her now though, she's all in bits at my GF's barn in fife :lol: Its cool your so close, if you ever need a hand or if your ever selling bits off the old red G60 ill def be interested! its always nice to have a fellow "aficionado of the Rado" living only a few streets away! Im surprised i never saw you to be honest, last year i was forever screaming up and down Dalmahoy Drive in the C. You going to the SVAG event at Knock hill on the 13th?

Im an idiot..... :lol: Was trying to test the starter motor to see if that was the problem to it not starting.... went to it and tapped the terminal with a jump lead attached to the battery.. nothing So i disconnected it from the circuit and tapped again, still nothing SOOO i decided to rip it out... so i did. surprisingly easy i thought.... to take out such a integral component. :| Would anyone like to see what i removed???????? Photo-0003.jpg[/attachment:u4nmhhh7] I got half way bk from the garage to home before i twigged.... id just removed the alternator :| :brickwall: i have ZERO idea what was going through my mind while i was trapping alternators instead of motors... its got a fly wheel for gods sake! :lol: Sooo 2 hours of fiddling has produced no answers and at least 30mins of reattaching alternators.....

LOL dundee Law! nice picy's :thumbleft: not seen you driving about? where abouts are you?

thats always a risk... :(

I didnt say oldish i said 8 years or more. And cracking isnt the issue. As far as im aware its to do with the way the tyres are constructed. Because of the way that a tyre is made in several layers, after prolonged storage in air the rubber on the INSIDE of the tyre reacts differently to the rubber on the OUTSIDE. This causes the different tyre compounds to shrink and crack away from each other. However, sometimes the inherent bond between the two materials is enough to stop anything visible from occurring. But when you subject the tyre to centrifugal force the two compounds separate at speed and your tyre bursts. It has nothing to do with "correct storage". As long as the tyre is subject to normal atmospheric conditions this will occur over time as a resultant chemical reaction between oxygen present in the air and the polymers present in the tyre. The only way that manufactures could prevent this during storage would be to keep the tyres in an argon atmosphere. the reason i brought this to ppls attention is because in a previous thread i explained that I had previously purchaced tyres from Kwick Fit and they sold me "out of date" tyres. they where 8 years old at the time of sale! :mad2:

COMPLETELY AGREE there's some serious problems there. Get it looked at by a garage, before you f :censored: k either your alternator or charger

Its not due to the storage, its down to the age. My friend (who happens to be a polymer chemist) told me that rubber perishes over time in the presence of oxygen. depending on the type of rubber it can take different lengths of time. For most tyre compounds its about 8 years.

There seemed to be some interest in another thread and I was surprised that no one had heard about this before :shock: If your ties are more than 8 years old then you should have them checked http://abcnews.go.com/Video/playerIndex?id=4826897

went to start the car saturday and it looks like either the ignition switch is broke or the starter motor is seized. It will push start so i took her out for a mile or two, just hope its nothing too serious :(

lol reliable daily hey? Should have bought that VR6 i showed you!!! :lol: :tongue:

all tyres are date stamped, and old tyres are dangerous. http://abcnews.go.com/Video/playerIndex?id=4826897

kwick fit are :censored: !! it wouldnt of supprised me if they didnt put the car on the ramp correctly so the tracking they "did" was miles off... does it track well when you drive? :offtopic: but i got KF to fit some pirelli tyres for my rad last year and two of the tyres they changed where out of date and two where not even Pirelli!they where blumin AVON!!!! :mad: i may even have to start a thread about how much i hate them....

"It puts the lotion in the basket....." The plug your holding in this picture download/file.php?id=69599&mode=view gets plugged into the water bottle (where you stick you engine coolant). as your looking at the picture the brown wire goes in the right hand side and the green yellow goes in the left

theres your problem right there.... kwick fit!! :bad-words: if the camber is not off then hows the suspension looking? i had similar problem when my rear spring shoe came a little loose.

id still get it looked at... without hearing the noise its a difficult diagnosis. :confused4: do you even have a picture of the loose screw and belt assembly? the garage wont charge you for an inspection so it wont hurt to get it looked at.

LOL!!! :onfire: yeh, i kinda forgot to mention that! try this conductive apoxy If its the ring thats rusted and not the wire you could also try replacing the ring. All it is at the end of the day is a cut piece of steel isnt it? ive not looked in the fuel cap before so im unsure but i would asume you could simply "cold bond" a new wire to the underside of the fuel opening... then you need only use a crimp to attach the new wire to the old one. if however your having trouble getting a good bond without wires trailing all over the place then i would look into getting a second hand spare... you dont wont to mess around with petrol! if you can get a part number then try volk's apart, they're very good and brake rado's regularly. They may sell you the component as apposed to the whole fuel tank as well

AGREED!! if my charger was "knocking" id be sweating! Esspecialy if id seen metal flying out of the pulleys the week before :lol: but out of interest, have you checked to see if anything is obviously loose? things that make strange noises at certain RPM's are usually down to resonance from a vibrating component... just a thought

Hey, yes big problem! :lol: it looks like the "ring" is still attached?... as long as you can get a good clean connection to the ring around the fuel filler neck you should still be roses. see if you can find where the ground connector cable meets the chassis[/*:m:1k6dpy4u] ideally remove it but if its difficult to get too id just clean it and make sure the connection to the chassis is still good and non rusty. (if your replacing it then attach a new piece of wire to the old one and pull it through, any size will do as long as its not tinny)[/*:m:1k6dpy4u] reattach the new wire with some solder to the existing ring [/*:m:1k6dpy4u] job done :wink: i think the existing fixing point to the chassis is actually between the fuel tank and the body though so if you cant get to it just find a new spot to fix against. As long as your fixing to something metallic and its out of the rain you'll get a good earth. :) here's a dig. to help :) (its item 7!)

bump...

sorry about the quality of the pics :( this is the sanding on the rear, actually took it out to get some petrol in her and its quite a bumpy rd to the petrol station. No cracks, or pits appeared so i think the strength is ok 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSC00110.JPG[/attachment:35tyjwv0] and again DSC00111.JPG[/attachment:35tyjwv0]

yeah, but has anyone ever tried to remove one themselves?