potatonet

anyone?

well I am going to get them oversized so they fit perfectly. I guess I will just get them, since 20 psi is a lot for a little 4 banger

AW heck just put a W8 in and bi-turbo it, now thats a motor.

so I will be getting forged unless someone can give me a really good reason not to...

HAHAHAHA

I was about to ask if they were cheap. Im working on getting some brazilian racing pistons right now.

Do I have to run a narrow band O2 sensor for the ECU to work properly? I need to get a wideband for my AFR sensor but I want to know if I can run the digifant with the wideband?

well i guess we equally hate our countries...

I just realized you are shoved into a place 1/2 the square mileage of the state I live in.... maybe that would be a little cramped...

I was under the impression that the UK was a much nicer place to live than the US but if that isnt the case then I will have to move to amsterdam

BTW no offense taken, I hate this country and their "ways"

yeah now I have to get pistons because no company has piston rings for a decent price, its worth it just to get the new pistons. I care about what comes out the other end, I dont want to be driving around with oil burning all the time. hell I almost converted my corrado to an electric car! (didnt have the funds) I only want 250 @ wheels (probably will change once I get there) stupid pistons ... =(

ok guys, Im "assembling" a motor as one of the VWVortex users calls it. 2.0L ABA block with a p&P G60 head with 41mm/34mm valves. o-ringed block, shot peened STOCK FORGED rods and pistons, I was going to use the standard ABA pistons in the block with a lower compression headgasket, standard compression ratio is 9.6:1, I would lower it to 8.6:1 but for some reason or another all the vortex users tell me to get forged pistons and after countless requests by vortex users I decided to cross the pond and ask the UK/EU users whom in the past have told me to keep my pistons cast (oil purposes). I dont like consuming oil, a good reason why I dont want forged pistons (people say they can be fitted correctly and not leak oil, but Ive seen too many leak) someone give me a good reason why/why not to get pistons (aside from money being an issue, cause after everything else I had to buy I am running VERY low)

for those of you who have had your heads ported or have race heads, how much material was removed or was all of it removed to increase flow? Im porting my motor right now, Ive done a few non VW heads but their guide bosses ended at the top of the chambers just wondering

bluejoe what was your compression ratio?

http://www.eurospecsport.com intake and exhaust oversized for 18.75 each! rockin!!!

if I take a 2.0L block with crankshaft and rods and everything what will my compression ratio be? stock its 10:1 I would be using the vw corrado head. if I took 144mm rods from a KR motor and replaced the 156mm rods from the 2.0L what would my compression ratio be then? 12mm drop does anyone know how far from the deck the pistons sit in KR, 9A, 2.0L, G60??? this would be very helpful right about now...

I know I need 35mm exhaust valves and 42mm intake valves but what cars do they come from or do I have to order them for? do I have to change back to 7mm exhaust guides. Thanks, Jonathan

The motor is being completely removed from the car, I want to use a 2.0L crankshaft with a 92.8 mm stroke, not the 86.4mm stock one I need pistons and rods that will let me use them in the standard block, overbore or not. sticking with 1.8L on a rebuild is not worth it to me. what pistons and rods can I use? I am using stuff from VW USA engines. we have ABA 2.0L KR 16V 1.8 9A 16V 2.oL 8V 1.8L from golf and jetta (vento) 88-92 cabriolet engines audi 5000s, 4000s, 100, 80 I will converse with ETKA when I get home no diesels (or very few) what can I use and do I need a different block? no fiats

well I have an 81mm bore I dont plan on boring the block to 82.5mm I just want to put the crank in I will change the pistons to KR pistons if they are the only ones that will fit (I can have the dished so I havent got most of that valve cut out) I just need to know what pistons to use if I cant use my G60 pistons without overboring. If I absolutely had to bore the block to fit the right pistons I would. I will only get cast pistons, I dont like forged jobs (they consume massive amounts of oil). So can I use KR pistons (81mm) in my G60 block with 136mm rods and a 2.0L crank and still stay beneath the deck? Or do I HAVE to use 9A pistons? do I have to use a 9A block? Im completely lost now.... If I were to use 9A pistons wouldnt I want to use the 2.0L pistons because they lack any valve cut out?

yeah I threw flames with 18 psi... that was fun... now my car doesnt run =-(

Bluejoe, is the fire pic in your sig because of a kit or because of the motor? and what did you do to that motor?

I just found out its 2.0L because I have to shave the pistons down the same length as the extension in the crank. anyone know how much a G60 piston can be shaved safely? I think I need something like 6.4mm of shaving so 1/2 cm or 5mm, wait shouldnt I be able to do that because that stupid dish extends out that far?

yeah... I dont think I will need pistons but if I do how much are you asking? I always seem to notice VEEDUBBED has something for sale... =-| hmmmmm I also think I may be screwed on the crank I did buy, its ok I can go and get the one I do need in a heartbeat. The ABA crank is wierd for some reason I think I need a 9A crankshaft from a 2.0L 16V passat. anyway I see that they market it as a 2.0L conversion but I think its something like 1.91L so its only a 1.9L motor... kinda sketchy when they promise 2.0L

yeah except I can see the bent valve =-( its fine with me I have a spare car to drive around right now. and I wanted a 2.0L crankshaft in there anyway (this also gives me an excuse to invest in all of the ARP bolts I wanted in the past)